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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS Régulateur Squelette SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud Oct 6, 2021

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS Régulateur Squelette

Having launched one of the best watches of 2020 with the spectacularly decorated Chronomètre FB 2RE, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) returned to its very first model this year, remaking the FB 1 by bestowing upon it an open-worked movement accompanied by more contemporary styling. The result is the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS – short for Régulateur Squelette, or “regulator skeleton”, which tidily sums up the time display format as well as the movement. Like the original FB 1, the new model has both a tourbillon as well as a chain and fusée. Notably, the FB RS is actually two models but equipped with the same movement, the FB-T.FC-RS. One is an octagonal case in sandblasted steel, the decidedly modern FB 1RS.6, while the other is the more conventional FB 2RS.2 in a round case of polished 18k rose gold. The FB-T.FC-RS While the two versions are quite different in terms of style, both share a similarly large diameter – resulting from the calibre within that boasts exemplary construction and finishing. The FB 1RS.6 in steel The FB 2RS.2 in gold Initial thoughts FB’s watches are best described as big and chunky – too big mostly – with equipped with exceptional movements. And the models with a tourbillon are especially big. Because of the their size, FB tourbillons tended to have a wide, empty expanse on the dial (which was dressed up with italic script in recent models). In contrast, the FB RS does away with all that empty real estate by uncovering the mechanics b...

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2021

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022

After two years of digital fairs – and several sold-out physical fairs in China – Watches & Wonders is finally happening in Geneva. First announced for 2020 as the successor to the long-running SIHH, which for two decades was the luxury-watch fair in Geneva, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) 2022 will take place from March 30 to April 5 at Palexpo, with 39 brands in attendance. All of the major names that spurred the demise of Baselworld will exhibit at W&W; 2022, namely Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor. They’ll be joined by most of the brands owned by Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that was historically the anchor of SIHH, the event that preceded W&W;. Amongst the Richemont brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, and Vacheron Constantin. Another luxury group represented at the fair is LVMH, which has all three of its watch brands – Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – taking part. Bulgari, however, is notably absent, perhaps because there are already two Richemont-owned jewellers present. One of the significant newcomers is Grand Seiko, which only just announced its participation in the fair. Seiko was a longtime mainstay of Baselworld, so it’s not surprising that its top-of-the-line brand is returning to Switzerland to exhibit its newest watches. The gang returns, except for the independents As was the case with SIHH in the past, W&W; 2022 will include the Carré des Horlogers, a square dedicated to independent watchmakers. In years past the carré co...

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Two-Tone Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Oct 3, 2021

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Two-Tone Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked

One of the six Code 11.59 models in the inaugural collection launched in 2019, the Tourbillon Openworked was the flagship – and also the most interesting aesthetically. In fact, the same watch was reimagined as a unique creation for charity auction Only Watch 2019 – where it sold for one million Swiss francs. And that turned out to be a hint of what was to come. And it has finally arrived in the form of the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked, in a two-tone case just like the unique 2019 example,  but with a striking, pale grey movement finish. The million-franc Only Watch 2019 edition Initial thoughts The new Code 11.59 tourbillon differs from the original version in colour and material, seeming superficial changes that are nonetheless crucial in bringing out the best features of the design. By virtue of its material mix, the two-tone case – the middle in pink gold and the rest in white gold – obviously has more contrast than the original single-tone version. This brings out the complex case form and finishes, especially the octagonal case middle with its alternating brushed and polished surfaces. And dressing the movement in light grey is a smart move that gives the watch a casual, chic look that goes well with the two-tone case. But the alteration of the case colours only work because the fundamentals are sound – despite the criticism the Code 11.59 received at launch. Conceived as a skeleton movement from the ground up, the cal. 2498 within has an attracti...

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges: An Icon Zooms In The Partnership With Aston Martin Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Oct 2, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges: An Icon Zooms In The Partnership With Aston Martin

Earlier in 2021, Girard-Perregaux surprisingly announced a new partnership with luxury carmaker Aston Martin and quickly released the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Aston Martin in blackened titanium. During Geneva Watch Days, Girard-Perregaux introduced a pink gold variation in celebration of the brand’s 230th anniversary that took Elizabeth Doerr's breath away with its transparency, technicity, and sheer beauty.

History Of Watchmaking: Günter Blümlein, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, And The LMH ‘Supergroup’ Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre IWC Oct 1, 2021

History Of Watchmaking: Günter Blümlein, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, And The LMH ‘Supergroup’

October 1, 2021, marks 20 years since Günter Blümlein passed away at the age of just 58. His untimely death meant that A. Lange & Söhne lost its visionary co-founder, and the watch world lost a charismatic businessman and strategist who was a crucial factor in driving the mechanical renaissance of watchmaking in the late twentieth century. His legacy was – and remains – the three so-called LMH brands, a "supergroup" that went on to form the nucleus of Richemont’s high-level manufacturing capabilities at the turn of the millennium.

Hands-On: With The L.U.C 1937 Classic Pink Gold, An Elegant In-House Chronometer From Chopard (Live Pics & Pricing) Hodinkee
Chopard Sep 29, 2021

Hands-On: With The L.U.C 1937 Classic Pink Gold, An Elegant In-House Chronometer From Chopard (Live Pics & Pricing)

Chopard's L.U.C collection contains a number of very interesting watches that range from simple time-only pieces to perpetual calendars and tourbillons (and even a cool table clock). At the more accessible end of the scale, we have the L.U.C 1937 Classic, a three-hand watch with a discrete date window and an in-house, chronometer-certified movement. That this movement comes in an elegant, well-finished pink gold package makes it all the more appealing.

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW263 And SBGW264: Using The Principles Of Japanese Aesthetics – Reprise Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW263 Sep 29, 2021

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW263 And SBGW264: Using The Principles Of Japanese Aesthetics – Reprise

These two limited editions made to celebrate 60 years of Grand Seiko are fairly different on the surface, but both achieve similar success of representing the sub-brand's aesthetic and legacy. With possibly two very different customers for each watch, Grand Seiko also utilizes guiding principles to speak to both that are rooted in Japanese aesthetic conventions as Joshua Munchow explains.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph: Both Beauty And Beast Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Sep 28, 2021

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph: Both Beauty And Beast

When the Royal Oak Offshore launched in 1993 its timing was perfect: the bolder, larger, louder sibling of the Royal Oak was one of the trailblazers of the oversized watch trend. Nearly three decades later, the line's large sizing has mellowed down a bit. While it never comes close to becoming a dress watch, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph does a mighty fine job of outlining how the complicated future of this collection might evolve.