Hodinkee
Hands-On: Kari Voutilainen's GPHG-Winning KV20i Is A Dream Watch, Even Without A Quintessential 'Kari' Dial
Voutilainen continues a long run of GPHG success. We dig into why.
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Hodinkee
Voutilainen continues a long run of GPHG success. We dig into why.
Worn & Wound
There’s a bit of dialogue toward the end of Willy Wonka and The Chocolate Factory from 1971 that goes: Wonka: but Charlie… Don’t forget what happened to the man who suddenly got everything he wanted. Charlie: What happened? Wonka: He lived happily ever after. An inversion of the typical “be careful what you wish for” sentiment that puts a rosy tint on the morbid but wonderful film, I can’t help but hear it play in my head when I look at the current state of independent watches. Once, there was a dearth of brands and originality, and now, there is almost too much. Well, not almost; there is. We went from a time when unique options were few and far between, making any that popped up all the more rare and exciting, to now, when they are almost common. I’M PRETTY SURE WE’RE CHARLIE IN THIS STORY What an absurd state of affairs! Am I actually complaining about there being too much originality? Well, no, but yes (mainly for this article and humor). You see, I used to be easily seduced by these new and unique pieces, but now, I have decision paralysis. Oh, the horror! In reality, this is remarkable. We’ve wondered for years what brands would do when the vintage craze ran its course and a need for originality returned. Rather than purely wild watches that depart from tradition entirely (though there are many), we’ve seen smaller brands invest in research, development, and craft to create watches that, at least, I would not have thought possible a handful of yea...
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Time+Tide
Having branched out from producing watches exclusively for military units, Micromilspec is now ready to take on civilian life.The post Understanding Micromilspec: an interview with CEO Henrik Rye appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! After last week’s list of GPHG winners, we return to the universe of vintage Rolex. Why? As we were browsing for entries for previous lists, we stumbled upon some amazing Rolex watches that you rarely see. This list, therefore, praises some of the Genevan brand’s less highlighted watches from the past. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Just a couple of months ago we introduced you to J.S. Elliott, a very young man from the US with South Korean roots who had then just released and sold out his first watch. Called the Theory One, and hinting at a follow-up in the interview, Elliott Kim made quite the impression with his thoughtful […]
SJX Watches
In an unexpected twist, Jérôme Lambert will return to the top job at Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), some 11 years after he left the same role. Mr Lambert’s first spell as chief executive of JLC, which lasted from 2002 to 2013, was a major success. During the 11 years, the brand developed into a contender in haute horlogerie while maintaining its affordable appeal in simpler watches. He then moved on to run Montblanc for almost four years until early 2017, before rising to a series of senior jobs in Richemont, the luxury group that owns JLC. In 2018 Mr Lambert was named chief executive of the group, but in June 2024 he was reassigned. Mr Lambert became chief operating officer, while Nicolas Bos succeeded him as chief executive. In some ways, Mr Lambert is a JLC lifer – he began his professional career in 1996 in the finance department of JLC. When he was tapped to lead JLC in 2002, he was one of the youngest chief executives in watchmaking. The two chief executives who ran JLC after Mr Lambert never quite led the brand to the same heights, so many will be hoping his comeback also signals a return to earlier glory.
Deployant
Stanley was in Taipei earlier this month and have caught up with Joe @biaoist Taiwan’s most influential watch influencer and Chapter Head of Redbar Taiwan.
Monochrome
Still a young brand compared to many of its peers, Norqain continues to expand its collection with its usual blend of sportiness, robustness and Swiss inspiration. Part of the Adventure collection, which ranges from masculine 42mm models to bold chronographs, the newest family member is a compact version with an appealing contrast of colours and […]
Monochrome
Arnold & Son has succumbed to the strong gravitational pull of the Moon by reinterpreting the phases of our neighbouring satellite in some of the largest displays in watchmaking today. The brand’s famous Perpetual Moon, with a massive 11.2mm moon in a generous aperture at noon, delights us once again in this latest platinum edition […]
SJX Watches
Having stepped in to acquire Brodbeck Guillochage in 2022, Voutilainen has announced the opening of a new, larger facility in Fleurier that is poised to become a new centre of excellence for guilloché. Retaining the name Brodbeck Guillochage in honour of its founder Georges Brodbeck, the new facility is located in what was once the local watchmaking school of Fleurier, the town adjacent to Voutilainen’s hilltop headquarters at Chapeau de Napoléon. The new home of Brodbeck Guillochage in Fleurier Initial thoughts This is welcome news for a number of reasons. First, it will help perpetuate the legacy of Mr. Brodbeck, ensuring that his life’s work will continue to have a positive impact watchmakers and lovers of fine objects for years to come. Second, the steady hand of Kari Voutilainen, whose accomplishments as an entrepreneur rival his skills as a watchmaker, should help the new enterprise navigate potential industry downturns in the future. Finally, the impressive scale of the operation should be a magnet for talent, improving the economic prospects for young artisans interested in guilloché. A new centre of excellence A self-taught guillocheur, Mr Brodbeck founded his eponymous firm in 2004, gradually building up a stock of more than 30 antique engine turning machines, each restored to working order by Mr Brodbeck himself. In 2023, Mr Brodbeck was awarded the Prix Gaïa, arguably the highest award in the Swiss watch industry, for his contributions to the preservati...
Monochrome
A relatively young and independently-ran brand, Brellum specializes in sporty chronographs, all produced in limited editions, with a maximum capacity of only 299 units per year and exclusively direct sales to final customers. A deliberate choice that’s made the brand an enthusiast-driven project with a strong base. Following the refreshing Duobox 39mm a couple of […]
Time+Tide
"Congrats to all the watch nerds. You beat me."The post Dave Portnoy admits defeat, announces fire sale for Brick Watch Company, blaming “watch geeks” for its demise appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It is no secret that I greatly appreciate Titoni’s efforts to create great watches at affordable prices. The brand has surprised me multiple times with its creations. In particular, the Seascoper line is a big personal favorite. But Titoni has plenty more to offer with a varied collection of watches. Another important line is the […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Titoni Airmaster Pilot to read the full article.
Monochrome
When it was officially announced back in late 2022, the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Programme (also known as RCPO) made some noise. The fact that the world’s largest watch brand officialized its interest in second-hand, certified and authenticated watches proved that this segment of the market was never to be neglected anymore. It took a little […]
Hodinkee
The GPHG picked the hyper-accurate secular perpetual calendar (one of the world's rarest complications) as the best watch of the year, while I was originally less than glowing. With an open mind, I take a second look.
Fratello
We have continued to add more items to our Black Friday selection in our shop. You can find everything from caps to straps, pocket knives, and, of course, watches! We’re offering a discount of up to 30% on certain products. More Black Friday deals on Fratello: Pouches & Straps You will find several more straps, […] Visit Discover More Black Friday Deals On Fratello to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Laine's smallest watch yet sports five different guilloché patterns.The post The Laine P37 reworks the Peseux 7001 and adorns it with stunning hand guilloché appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...
Deployant
The 2nd collaboration of Louis Erard & Vianney Halter takes the distinctive styling of the Régulateur and fusing it with the Antiqua.
SJX Watches
Having unveiled its first Vianney Halter collaboration in 2020, Louis Erard now follows up with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II that’s notably superior in style and details. Modelled on the Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II retains the usual Louis Erard regulator format, but smartly tweaked to replicate key elements of the Antiqua, including the rivets on the bezel, case profile, and multi-part dial. The new regulator is offered in two limited editions of 178 pieces each: the one with a silvered dial and gilt chapter rings is available only on Louis Erard’s online store, while the second edition with an inverted dial finish will only be sold at the brand’s retailers around the world. The Louis Erard e-commerce exclusive (left), and the retailer edition Initial thoughts Louis Erard has rolled out numerous collaborations with independent watchmakers. Most of them are convincing tributes to the original, but of varying levels of customisation. A good number of them employ the stock regulator case but with an edition-specific dial, which was the case for the first Vianney Halter collab. The new Vianney Halter regulator, on the other hand, features components unique to this model, giving it a distinctive look. The dial, case, bezel, and case back are all made for this edition, with only the movement being stock. As result, this captures the look and feel of the original watch that inspired it much better than past collabo...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe used to be seen as something like a younger sibling to the classic Fifty Fathoms but after more than a decade in production (of the current iteration, at least) I would now classify it as the more modern sibling. The clean lines and sleek angles work particularly well in what is typically the bulkier category of diver chronographs, let alone flyback chronographs. But, the Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Chronograph seen here, done in a ceramic case and green colorway, manages to exceed expectations and defy any baggage or preconceptions the category may bring with it. One thing you won’t get from the images alone is just how lightweight the watch is, due to its black ceramic case. Ceramic is one of my favorite materials for a watch case (in addition to titanium) not just because of the weight but also the scratch resistance that comes with it. It also looks great, especially contrasted against that wonderfully vibrant green used on the dial and bezel here. Divers' chronographs are a particular challenge because, well, operating a chronograph underwater presents some serious water-resistance issues. That said, Blancpain is confident in its assertion that the chronograph can safely be activated underwater. And for those not familiar, a flyback is significantly more complex than a typical chronograph because it does not have to be stopped before resetting. While we’re on the topic, the F385 caliber deserves some love because it ...
Monochrome
Titoni is an independent family-owned watch brand founded in 1919 by Fritz Schluep in Grenchen, Switzerland, now in the hands of great-grandsons Marc and Olivier Schluep. With a variety of contemporary collections and even an in-house automatic powering its Line 1919 dress watch collection, the genuine interest in this brand resides in its remakes of […]
SJX Watches
The latest from Ressence is a departure from the usual cosmetic variation. Created for its Tokyo retailer Shellman, the Type 8 Indigo features a dial inlaid with indigo-dyed Japanese silk thread that’s been tightly packed into shallow recesses on the dial surface to form a swirling motif. This watch is one of several editions conceived by Shellman that are cumulatively known as the Indigo project. Each is a collaboration with an independent watchmaker that sports a blue dial, in a nod to the traditional Japanese indigo dyeing technique. Initial thoughts The Type 8 was originally the entry-level model within the brand’s catalogue, fulfilling founder Benoît Mintiens’s wish to make his distinctive watches more accessible. At CHF25,000, the Type 8 Indigo cost almost double the basic Type 8. So it is no longer entry level, but the price is justified by the hand-made dial that takes two days to complete according to Ressence. Importantly, the silk-inlaid dial looks good and complements the brand’s aesthetic perfectly. While the Ressence is not typically known for traditional decoration crafts, the dial decoration adds a little more variety to the brand’s watches, which are typically minimalist and hyper modern. At the same time, this is also more interesting than Ressence’s recent limited editions, most of which have been simple dial variations. Indigo-dyed silk Being based on the standard Type 8, the Indigo edition retains the same titanium case that’s 42.9 mm in...
Time+Tide
Ressence introduces its most affordable and simple watch yet, with all the refinements that make it basic(ally perfect).The post The Type 9 continues a simplified chapter for Ressence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The all-new Ressence Type 9 is a sleek creation in either warm gray or a fresh shade of aqua blue. Its pebble-like titanium case measures 39mm wide, making it the smallest Ressence timepiece ever. The watch is a slimmed-down and refined version of the Type 8 and shows only the hours and minutes. It’s not […] Visit Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hublot has always been associated with the fusion of disparate materials, starting with Carlo Crocco’s surprising cocktail of a gold case and rubber strap on board the flagship Classic Original. Hublot’s latest watch dedicated to tennis legend Novak Djokovic takes the “art of fusion” to unimaginable levels and even slips in the much-desired sustainability card. […]
Worn & Wound
The eagle-eyed watch enthusiast may have noticed a theme shift on the Circula website very recently. A new layout, new graphics, even a new logo. No, this is not some quarterly refresh, but rather a sign of things to come. Enter the Facet. A new flagship model from the brand positioned as an elevated everyday or dress watch following in the integrated bracelet sport watch wave that has swept throughout the industry. Now, the Facet may not technically have an integrated bracelet (it’s available on a strap as well), though it certainly leans into a similar look and feel. While this might be an introductory piece for a portion of this audience, Circula is a brand that has been on my radar for a while now with the Protrail Field watch making its way into my collection. I can honestly say too that I was a fan of the former direction of the brand, aiming to provide good value in the roughly $1,000 sports watch segment of the market. So, does this departure from the previous trend towards another signal my exit from the bandwagon or blow a signal for full steam ahead? Let’s face it, the landscape of the watch industry has changed creating a more crowded and competitive market than we have ever seen before. In an effort to stand out, Cornelius Huber, the current caretaker of Circula and 3rd generation at the helm, has partnered with designer Guy Bove, previously of TAG Heuer amongst others, in designing the Facet to stand out in the pack. Utilizing new finishing techniques, a ...
Monochrome
Let’s talk about one of the worst nightmares of a watch enthusiast… Knocking the watch on a door handle or the corner of a counter and shattering the sapphire crystal into dozens of pieces. We’ve all seen such images on social media, and it scares us to the bones. Unfortunately, it can happen. To avoid […]
Deployant
One for the fans of both the Hublot Big Bang Unico and Novak Djokovic! Hublot has teamed up with the tennis superstar for a watch.
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