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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Review: the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab Worn & Wound
Oct 22, 2026

Review: the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab

Writing about the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab has proved a difficult task. A tutor once told me to keep the structure of any article, report, or document simple: tell them what you’re about to tell them, tell them, then tell them what you’ve told them. As I sit to translate my thoughts onto screen, I struggle with both the introduction and summary parts. The longer I spend with this interesting piece, the more difficult it becomes. Gagà Laboratorio describe this watch as “extend[ing] its vision into the world of diving watches, interpreting this category through its distinctive design culture and its contemporary understanding of luxury lifestyle”, and although it encompasses both the function of a dive watch and the refinement of a luxury timepiece I find it tough to pin down exactly what the Aqualab is. On a personal level, I either like a watch, or I don’t. I’d either be happy to buy it, or I wouldn’t. Writing about a watch causes me to think more objectively, and evaluating against an archetype is a good way to do that. The fact that I struggle to pigeonhole the Aqualab is a stumbling block. But here goes… Considering the dial separately from the case, or even the strap, feels a little spurious as the overall design flows strongly throughout. Nonetheless, that’s what I’m going to try to do, starting with the time-telling functions. As you’ll no doubt spot at the very first glance, the Aqualab doesn’t make use of ordinary hands. Hours, minutes, an...

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 22, 2026

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic

Atelier de Chronométrie, the Barcelona-based independent, introduces its first dual-register chronograph, the ADC16, following up on its lauded three-register rattrapantes with a unique gilt-dialled commission powered by a heavily upgraded Valjoux 23. The historical calibre has been reimagined with a new bridge design, assortment, an instantaneous minutes counter, and impressive decoration. And anything that isn’t to your liking can be changed, as customisation is what Atelier de Chronométrie does best. Initial thoughts Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) specialises in bespoke, vintage-inspired watches that are both handsome and substantively hand made. The brand’s debut chronograph, the AdC8 Split-Seconds Chronograph launched in 2020, was sensational, and its first simple chronograph is nearly as ambitious. The practice of refinishing decades-old chronograph movements is nothing new — at times it seems like there’s an almost endless supply of new-old-stock Valjoux chronographs. But AdC substantially transforms the historical architecture to a degree that is genuinely uncommon, crafting its own redesigned bridges, making its own balance wheel, and replacing the stock semi-instantaneous minutes counter with an instantaneous one. Of course, these upgrades come at a cost. With a starting price of €140,000, AdC’s dual-register chronograph costs significantly more than equivalents from the likes of Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, which come equipped with more in...

Introducing - The Mexican-Themed Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos Edition 13 Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día Oct 21, 2026

Introducing - The Mexican-Themed Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos Edition 13

Chopard continues its tribute to Mexican culture with the thirteenth interpretation of its L.U.C Full Strike. This latest one-of-a-kind “Día de los Muertos” creation pairs one of the manufacture’s most technically accomplished watches with an elaborate dial depicting a calavera, the stylised skull associated with the celebration of life and remembrance. The 2021 version of […]

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Oct 15, 2026

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic

Today, Christopher Ward officially introduces what some might call one of the worst kept secrets in indie watchmaking. We all knew that a dressy version of the brand’s Loco was coming – their British Watchmakers’ Day limited edition kind of gave it away. No one really thought that would be a one off, right? The all new C1 Loco Classic arrives as a fully formed product line within the brand’s Atelier lineup, and offers collectors who might have bristled at the aggressively sporty, angular C12 Loco a more refined option built on the same caliber with the same dramatic architecture.  The C1 Loco Classic is built on a 41mm 904L stainless steel “Light-catcher” case with a mix of high polished surfaces and contrasting brushed elements. The case features a pronounced groove running through the middle section, following through to the lugs, and has a curvy, rounded appearance. It’s a thick case, measuring a total of 14.1mm tall, but over 5mm of that height belongs to the domed crystal – Christopher Ward says the case itself is 8.55mm thick. Despite its overall height, Christopher Ward has gone to great lengths to create a softer and more organic shape for the Loco Classic, and while it might not work on every wrist, visually it certainly meets the brief of a more refined Loco.  As an owner of a C12 Loco, I can say that while I enjoy the case quite a bit, the real draw of the watch is the movement and the dial, and the way those two aspects of the piece are integr...

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Hodinkee
Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum What Oct 15, 2026

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum

What We Know If you know Urwerk, you know that they've always been looking toward the stars, making instantly recognizable watches with the brand's iconic satellite display that rotates around the dial, with the hour pointing to the minute track as the whole display turns and snaps to reveal each passing hour. They've played with a variety of approaches to this concept, widening the minute track and speeding up the snap as well, but today's release of the UR-300 "Time Quantum" introduces a new mechanic that the brand says is inspired by things at the atomic level. Not to be confused with Urwerk's other atomic-inspired watch (one of my top 10 favorite all-time modern watches, the AMC special), this watch draws from the concept of polarized entities—neutrons and electrons—swirling around. Instead of the rotating single carousel in the past, the new display features a "T-frame" structure. The current hour displays as usual; the flat portion of a triangular hour module is made of beryllium copper, brass, anodized aluminum, ARCAP AP1D, and titanium, and points to the current minute as it travels on a 108º arc. The other hours are rotated 120º on their axis to hide them for legibility. Once it approaches the 60th minute (and transitions to 0), three things happen. Power built up during the rotation forces the T-Frame into rotation in a split second. The frame jumps forward and rotates 72º to put the next hour display into position, also rotating the hour module to be visi...

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2026

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO

The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...

Introducing - The MeisterSinger No03 and Perigraph Special Editions with Turquoise Dials Monochrome
Meistersinger No03 Oct 13, 2026

Introducing - The MeisterSinger No03 and Perigraph Special Editions with Turquoise Dials

Watchmaking enthusiasts know MeisterSinger and the foundational idea behind its creations: time does not always need to be read to the nearest second. Two of the Münster-based brand’s long-standing models, the No03 and the Perigraph, now come as special editions that pair the signature single-hand display with a cool new dial colour. Both watches are […]

The Art of Cloisonné at Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 12, 2026

The Art of Cloisonné at Patek Philippe

For some eight decades, Patek Philippe has been an important patron of cloisonné enamel, commissioning work that helped sustain the craft when demand for it had all but disappeared. From the enamel maps of Louis Cottier’s world time watches to the signed dials of Anita Porchet, its commissions trace a history of both the technique and the changing recognition of the artists behind it. Today, demand for artisanal dials, particularly those in cloisonné enamel, is at an all-time high. In May 2026, a Patek Philippe wristwatch sold for about US$10.2 million at an auction in Geneva, as collectors competed for a dial featuring a map of South America made with gold wire and enamel. The outcome ended up making headlines. The watch was a ref. 2523 from 1953, and the artist responsible for the dial — supplied by Stern Frères — remains anonymous. The Patek Philippe ref. 2523, with South America map. The story of cloisonné enamel at Patek Philippe is also one of artistic patronage. By choosing subjects, commissioning enamellers and eventually allowing them to sign their dials, the Genevan watchmaker has acted as a curator, shaping a body of work that reflects both its own tastes and the talents of individual artists. Drawing in fire Cloisonné is only one of several enamel techniques. Cloisonné begins with gold wire. The enameller bends it by hand, sometimes working with wire just 0.05 mm thick, to draw the design on the dial. The resulting compartments, or cloisons — Fren...

Hands-On Review: The Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee Opens A Stunning New Chapter WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee Opens Oct 9, 2026

Hands-On Review: The Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee Opens A Stunning New Chapter

I take the new Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee hands-on to see how the bi-compax anniversary edition compares with the existing Tri-Compax Chronograph! What We Love: Bi-compax layout gives the signature Millésime sector dial more room to shine The model retains the exceptional wearability of the Millésime chronographs Carries defining traits of “The Fifty” into a more accessible format What We Don’t: No date display for those who may prefer the added practicality No steel bracelet option! 12.9mm thickness may be substantial for those who prefer slimmer chronograph proportions. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Raymond Weil, like many other watchmakers, went through some turbulent times during the COVID-19 era. However, as is often the case, periods of adversity can inspire some of the most creative and important work. This was certainly the case with Raymond Weil, as it was during this period that the Millésime collection was born. While the collection was introduced in 2023, its development and design began a few years earlier. The brand wanted to create a new expression of its watchmaking identity, bringing together its history with accessible contemporary watchmaking. The word “Millésime” literally translates to “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, directly reflecting the collection’s inspiration from watches produced between the 1930s and 1960s. View this post on Instagram A pos...

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chanel Acquire 95% Oct 8, 2026

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million

In a surprise move, a consortium led by Montres Journe and comprising Chanel and Pierre Jacques, the former chief executive of De Bethune, has acquired Ebel from its longtime American owners, the Movado Group. According to the deal announcement, the consortium is buying 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 million, with the remaining shares to be retained by Movado. The three-party consortium evidently brings different skills to the table, including the financial firepower of Chanel, the watchmaking know-how of François-Paul Journe, and the operational and managerial expertise of Mr Jacques. Movado, on the other hand, might be relieved to have unloaded Ebel, which it unsuccessfully tried to revive over its two decades of ownership. From left: François-Paul Journe, Efraim Grinberg of Movado, Frédéric Grangié of Chanel, and Pierre Jacques. Image – Pierre Jacques Once a high flying brand that was one of the biggest in Switzerland during its 1980s and 1990s heyday, Ebel was famous for its Sport Classique, often nicknamed “wave”, which featured integrated bracelets resembling a wave. Launched in 1977, the model launched Ebel into the stratosphere, with its workforce growing 15 times and revenue reaching nine figures. Ebel was led during this time by Pierre-Alain Blum, grandson of its founders and a shrewd marketer. In the year just after the Quartz Crisis, Ebel was a luxury giant. Amongst the indicators of Ebel’s success and scale during this period: Cartier turned to Ebel to p...

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Oct 7, 2026

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater

The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...

A Covert Release: The Seiko 5 Sports Field HDB001 And HDB002 GMTs Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports Field HDB001 Oct 6, 2026

A Covert Release: The Seiko 5 Sports Field HDB001 And HDB002 GMTs

Sometimes Seiko silently releases watches that deserve attention — for example, the new HDB001 and HDB002. These two new dial variants of the popular Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT joined the lineup in August. That’s right in the middle of the summer break, so, understandably, they flew under the radar. But knowing how popular the […] Visit A Covert Release: The Seiko 5 Sports Field HDB001 And HDB002 GMTs to read the full article.

Hanhart Revisits Steve McQueen’s Personal Chronograph SJX Watches
Rolex but his personal watches Oct 2, 2026

Hanhart Revisits Steve McQueen’s Personal Chronograph

Steve McQueen is closely associated with Heuer and Rolex, but his personal watches also included the less conspicuous Hanhart 417 ES. The Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 commemorates that connection with a discreet dial signature and a strap modelled on his own, developed with input from his grandchildren. Initial thoughts Steve McQueen is inextricably linked to Hollywood, but also the objects he surrounded himself with — cars, clothing, sunglasses and watches. Though when it comes to the latter, he’s often mislabeled. The Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 is often erroneously nicknamed the ‘Steve McQueen’ despite the fact he never wore one (it was a Submariner ref. 5513). But before the Rolex and Heuer Monaco years came the Hanhart 417 ES, which McQueen was rarely seen without as it accompanied him through everyday activities for many of his early years in Hollywood. McQueen’s loyalty to the comparatively low-key Hanhart 417 may have been function-led. An avid racer, sportsman and marksman, the flyback chronograph with ample shock resistance and a useful rotating bezel likely hit the mark for what he wanted from a tool watch. Hanhart has kept the tribute restrained. The actor’s signature replaces the text above six o’clock on the standard 417 ES 1954 Heritage Flyback, but is small enough not to overwhelm the dial. The watch can stand on its own, even for someone with little interest in McQueen. It’s a good story for a watch priced at €2,890....

Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee Raymond Weil Sep 30, 2026

Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee

Raymond Weil kicked off its 50th anniversary earlier this year with the Fifty, a vintage-inspired limited edition chronograph powered by an appropriately historical vintage calibre. The party continues with the Millesime Jubilee, a larger but more accessible “panda” variant that borrows the Millesime’s “sector” dial and appealing “pump” pushers. Limited to 500 pieces, the Jubilee exchanges the vintage movement for a modern automatic calibre, and looses its predecessor’s white gold bezel. But it retains much of what made the Fifty attractive at less than half the price. The Fifty (left) with the Jubilee Initial thoughts Raymond Weil appears to be claiming renewed relevance after years in the wilderness. Established in 1976, it was one of the few watch brands founded during that difficult period to survive and prosper. Classical designs at accessible prices, backed by widespread advertising, made it a familiar name. At its peak in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the brand was selling some half a million watches per year. But the affordable luxury category became crowded, and Raymond Weil gave up ground to new entrants, languishing for a number of years. The Millesime has given the brand a more convincing identity, combining familiar vintage styling with unusually good attention to detail for the money. The Jubilee chronograph is no exception. The conical flange carrying the tachymeter scale is particularly appealing. Attractively snailed, it slopes gently tow...

Breguet Revamps Its Iconic Marine Collection Worn & Wound
Breguet Revamps Sep 29, 2026

Breguet Revamps Its Iconic Marine Collection

Breguet has long been a brand with a deep reverence to its history spanning over 250 years. In this tradition, Breguet’s designs have remained consistent and timeless. The brand’s Marine collection is a core part of this lineage, with roots that trace back to 1815 when Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed watchmaker to the French Royal Navy by King Louis XVIII. At the time, these marine chronometers were crucial scientific instruments, but as years passed and needs changed, the collection later evolved throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. On the coattails of Breguet’s 250th anniversary last year, we’re really seeing the brand’s offerings come into the modern era with new design updates. The latest comes to the Marine collection, which the brand has revamped with a new aesthetic that aligns with its latest stylistic codes.Two references anchor the contemporary Marine line: the 5517, a classic time and date version, and the 5527, a chronograph. For the first time, both the Marine 5517 and 5527 will feature Breguet numerals and the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloche pattern that was unveiled to mark the 250th anniversary. This motif takes its name from the address on the Ile de la Cite where Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop and where his early marine chronometers were produced. Its design draws inspiration from two sources: first, the contours of the Ile de la Cite and Ile Saint-Louis as well as the repetitive movement of ocean waves. Several other ...

Introducing - Konstantin Chaykin Brings the Atomic Heart Twins to Life Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Brings Sep 29, 2026

Introducing - Konstantin Chaykin Brings the Atomic Heart Twins to Life

Konstantin Chaykin has steadily brought unexpected cultural references in his Wristmon series, both international and from his home country, into watchmaking, converting the dial into a small stage for artistic characters. The new editions come from the world of video games. The Twins are among the most recognisable characters in Mundfish’s Atomic Heart, a first-person […]

First Look - New Stone Dials for the Accessible Perrelet Weekend Monochrome
Sep 25, 2026

First Look - New Stone Dials for the Accessible Perrelet Weekend

Perrelet is renowned for its Turbine watches, featuring a dynamic, propeller-style rotor spinning on the dial. As an elegant, dressier counterweight to the theatrical Turbines, Perrelet launched the Weekend collection in 2017. Designed as a compact, well-proportioned daily companion with a subtle retro vibe, the Weekend has recently embraced the ubiquitous trend for stone dials. […]

Seiko freshens up its Seiko 5 field GMT with two new colours Time+Tide
Seiko freshens up Sep 24, 2026

Seiko freshens up its Seiko 5 field GMT with two new colours

When considering a highly functional, reliable, no-nonsense timepiece that doesn’t break the bank, Seiko 5 undoubtedly comes to mind. Seiko also changed the game for affordable complications when it released the Seiko 5 GMT in 2022, making mechanical dual-time watches accessible to a whole new audience. Seiko’s first foray into this territory took the form of the … Continued

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Longines Spirit Pilot Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics)

What We Know Not all of the releases we cover are horological heavy hitters or groundbreaking mechanical inventions. Yes, plenty are, but sometimes a simple new dial color is worth talking about. And in the context of Longines' mighty newsworthy year, with several extremely well-received launches like the Hydroconquest and the Master Collection Monopushers already in the recent catalog, a new colorway for the Spirit Pilot and Pilot Flyback still feels worth discussing. The new time-only Spirit Pilot in blue.Image, courtesy Longines. The second iteration of these two watches, since its update last year, introduces a matte blue dial (and a glossy blue ceramic bezel insert on the chronograph). At a high level, that's kind of it. But with the change from a gilt-style look, swapping the golden accents of the applied numerals, chapter ring chamfer, and printing, this is the first time the latest generation of Spirit Pilot feels like a decidedly modern product. Yes, you lose a little bit of the vintage charm, but the new versions are not replacing those "gilt" editions, so now you have the same models in two very different aesthetic contexts. I won't spend too much time on specs because they remain unchanged—the time-only Spirit Pilot is 39mm by 11.5mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47.2mm, and the Flyback chronograph is 39.5mm by 13.4mm with a lug-to-lug of 47.4mm. The time-only model features the automatic L888.4 caliber, which is COSC-certified and offers a 72-hour power reserve with...