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Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship SJX Watches
Aug 25, 2025

Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship

Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...

The Best Solar Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 22, 2025

The Best Solar Watches

  Solar watches are an eco-friendly alternative to traditional quartz watches with lithium battery-powered movements. Watches with solar-powered movements still maintain the accuracy and reliability of quartz technology, which makes them much more precise than any mechanical watch. Here's a brief history of solar technology in watchmaking and a selection of notable solar watches on sale now. Solar Watch Technology - A Brief History In the late 1960s, the Swiss watch industry was on the precipice of a technical revolution that would ultimately threaten the very existence of traditional mechanical watchmaking while simultaneously ushering in the dawn of mass-produced electronic watches. By the 1970s, quartz movements had won out over a handful of other early technological approaches to producing electronic watches (you can delve a bit more into that history here), giving rise to the era now known known within the industry as the Quartz Crisis. Experiments with using solar power to charge watches, however, go all the way back to the '60s, to the development of the first solar-powered movement by American engineer Roger Riehl. This technology was introduced to the market in 1972, with the first prototype called the “Synchronar” and the first production piece, the Synchronar 2100, released later that same year.   Priced at nearly $500 (about $3,200 in today's money), the Synchronar 2100 was considered something of a luxury product and struggled to compete in...

"Are Tissot Watches Good?" Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Aug 20, 2025

"Are Tissot Watches Good?"

Tissot is one of the world's largest Swiss watchmakers and can look back on a rich history upon which it is still building today. In the modern era, Tissot is widely known for its large and diverse portfolio of watches, which ranges from dressy to sporty to high-tech, for its high-profile sports timing presence, and for its incredible value for the money. But there is a lot more that you may not know about Tissot and its many contributions to watchmaking history. Here, we delve into the highlights and tackle the easily answerable question of "are Tissot watches good?". (And if you're interested in learning more about particular Tissot Watches that are available now, check out our companion article on the Best Tissot Watches for Men.) Tissot’s Watchmaking Milestones Began in 1853 Tissot is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world, tracing its history back to 1853. Its founders were the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, where the company remains headquartered today, into a small factory. By 1858, the family firm had gained a major foothold in Tsarist Russia, which became the largest market for the savonette pocket watches that were its specialty at the time. (At one point, Charles-Émile’s son, Charles Tissot, the third generation of the Tissot family to join the business, moved to Moscow to open an office there.) Tissot is recognized as the producer of the first...

The 15 Best British Watch Brands (2026) Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 18, 2025

The 15 Best British Watch Brands (2026)

While Switzerland is regarded today as the world leader of watchmaking, Great Britain can lay claim to a wealth of horological milestones throughout its history as well. From Thomas Mudge’s development of the lever escapement in 1755 to John Harrison’s invention of the marine chronometer in 1759 to the innovations of clockmaker Thomas Tompion and his protegé George Graham in the areas of science and astronomy, England was an undisputed leader in timekeeping throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. The 20th century brought the decline of the British Empire and, with it, British watchmaking, as nations like Switzerland, Germany, and (for a while) the United States stepped in with modern mass-production techniques while the Brits held fast to traditional, artisanal methods. The United Kingdom essentially ceased being a major producer of timepieces by the end of World War II, but as the 21st Century dawned, a handful of entrepreneurial Britons have made great strides in bringing high-end watchmaking back to their native land, establishing new brands - and in some cases, resurrecting old ones - to make watches that appeal to today’s discerning enthusiasts in the U.K. and across the world. Whether the focus is military-style tool watches, avant-garde complications at approachable prices, or ultra-high-end pieces for well-heeled collectors, each brand boasts an identity that is proudly British and at the same time distinct from its peers. Here are 15 British watch bran...

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Purple Rain Fratello
Chronoswiss Aug 18, 2025

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Purple Rain

Thirty years ago, Chronoswiss founder Gerd Rüdiger Lang created a watch that earned itself a place in the history books. The 1995 38mm Opus CH 7523 was the first serially produced self-winding skeletonized chronograph. The watch was powered by a heavily modified Valjoux 7750 movement and was voted “Watch of the Year” by the readers […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Purple Rain to read the full article.

Omega Speedmaster Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Aug 13, 2025

Omega Speedmaster Guide

The Omega Speedmaster, aka the Moonwatch, is one of the most legendary and collectible watch models in the world. Originally conceived as a wristwatch for race car drivers, it has since become much more associated with its pivotal role in history as the watch used by the astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission in 1969, thus making it the first watch worn on the moon. Now the undisputed centerpiece of the modern Omega watch portfolio, the original Speedmaster has not only changed very little from the timepiece that symbolized America’s Space Race supremacy more than 50 years ago; it has also given rise to dozens of special editions, innovative variations, and the use of bold new technologies and avant-garde materials in the pioneering spirit of early space exploration. 1957: A YEAR OF MASTERY The Space Race that dominated the 1960s had yet to kick off in 1957, the year that Omega, a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1848, released a trio of sport-oriented tool watches with “Master” in their names, all descended stylistically from the first Seamaster of 1948, one of the first waterproof dress watches. One was the Seamaster 300, an evolution of the original that was built for deep-sea diving (I explore the Seamaster collection in depth here). The second was the Railmaster, a watch aimed at scientists and technicians whose technical hallmark was its extreme magnetic resistance (more on the Railmaster here). The third, and most influential, was the Speedmaster, which as i...

Bulova Introduces a New Lunar Pilot with a Timascus Dial Worn & Wound
Bulova Introduces Aug 7, 2025

Bulova Introduces a New Lunar Pilot with a Timascus Dial

Cosmically speaking, 150 years might not be a very long time, but in the relatively young scale of recorded human history, it’s a mighty long while indeed. Airplanes, space travel, personal computers, microchips, sliced bread, washing machines, and the Internet were all invented within the past 150 years or so, making it even more impressive when a brand reaches the same level of longevity. This year, Bulova has done just that. To celebrate their sesquicentennial, the American watchmaker has a new release based on an icon of their past: the Lunar Pilot Timascus. The new release calls back to the original watch of the same name-the Lunar Pilot Chronograph-which was created in 1971 and ultimately worn on the moon. In the futuristic year of 2025, Bulova has teamed up with Brazilian artist Thiago Rosinhole to put his signature astronaut character “Budii” on the new Lunar Pilot, furthering the space-faring theme and giving the watch a touch of quirky character on top of historical heritage.  Still, the new Lunar Pilot leans less on the use of the character (who I was admittedly unfamiliar with until the collaboration announcement) and more on a creative use of color to spice up the classic chronograph style seen on other Lunar Pilot models throughout the brand’s history and current lineup. Nestled within a stainless steel case that measures 43.5mm in diameter is the “tiamscus” dial. If you, like me, were wondering what that means, it’s actually a fairly strai...

Omega Speedmaster White Dial Moonwatch Review Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Aug 6, 2025

Omega Speedmaster White Dial Moonwatch Review

The Omega Speedmaster is a strange watch. Omega’s most iconic chronograph enjoys an enviable history that has made it a household name, and instantly recognizable to even the most casual of enthusiasts. It has aged gracefully, changing surprisingly little since its introduction in 1957, which has no doubt buoyed its status as a bona fide icon. Along with, you know, landing on the moon and all that. But digging just a little bit deeper than the Moonwatch Professional reveals a mother lode of Speedmaster references of all shapes, sizes, and colors. Getting a grasp on the full lineage of the Speedmaster is daunting, and it’s something that we plan on breaking down in layman's terms in the near future, but it’s important to understand how these older (and at times obscure) references inform Omega’s latest and greatest releases. Of course, I am talking about the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial. The newest Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, released earlier this year, is the first regular-production steel Moonwatch to receive a white dial. There have been plenty of other Speedmasters to feature a white dial - from recent limited-edition Snoopy references, to the famed Alaska Project watches that originated in 1969 (and were seen again in a reissue from 2008) - so it’s not an entirely new look for the Moonwatch. This new variation is a bit different and, to my eye, draws inspiration from a different reference in the back catalog: the so-called Albino ...

Reflecting on Twenty Years of MB&F; SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 4, 2025

Reflecting on Twenty Years of MB&F;

It’s difficult to picture what the independent watchmaking landscape would look like without MB&F;. In some ways, it feels like the brand has always been around, perhaps because for me, it has. I first discovered MB&F; in 2008 when the HM2 was launched, but even back then the brand had an aura of polish that belied its short history. With the benefit of hindsight, Max Büsser’s decision to step away from corporate life, and leave the top job at Harry Winston Rare Timepieces to build his own brand rooted in collaboration, transparency, and imagination, seems obvious. But at the time, it was seen as a risky move that would never work. To understand why it did, we need to go back to the early 2000s. Max Büsser during the launch of the HM1 It’s called what? Let’s rewind. In the early 2000s the watch community was obsessed with the topic of in-house movements. The internet was slowly helping collectors find one another and share insider knowledge, which revealed how many watches were powered by the same handful of movements. If a new brand wanted to be taken seriously, it was increasingly important to be a manufacture and do as much as possible in-house. It was a simpler time, and we had yet to see such widespread misuse of the term.  So when Mr Büsser explained that MB&F; stood for ‘Maximilian Büsser & Friends,’ and that he would actively celebrate the friends and collaborators that he was working with, people told him he was crazy. But he understood that the coll...

Sinn 556 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Sinn Jul 17, 2025

Sinn 556 Review

Founded in 1961, Frankfurt, Germany-based Sinn is one of those watch brands that has a rich history to back it up, and continues to produce well-thought-out and reasonably priced watches, but has yet to be catapulted into the watch enthusiast spotlight that other brands have achieved. This, in my opinion, is something of a shame, but the hipster in me also likes to think that its lack of over-hype is also one of the brand’s strengths. While we over here at the Teddy team have given lots of (well-deserved) attention to the Sinn 104 ST, today, I’m going to give some more love to another equally deserving piece within the brand’s contemporary catalog: the Sinn 556 I.  One could argue that a no-nonsense black-dial watch is a dime a dozen. Pretty much every brand under the sun has one, if not several, to choose from. But unpacking and picking apart what immediately looks to be simple is a watch journalist's bread and butter after all, so it is quite literally my job to get down to the nitty gritty of the unique ways in which the Sinn 556 I is compelling, and, for those in the market, to break down the reasons why (or why not) it should be on your list of watches to consider. I will also argue that simplicity is often the easiest design element to mess up. How many times has one watch been thrown off by too much unnecessary text and branding, a date window that breaks up the dial’s overall harmony, or those little details that people free from watch obsession would easi...

Valjoux 7750: The Story Of The World's Most Famous Chronograph Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 16, 2025

Valjoux 7750: The Story Of The World's Most Famous Chronograph

The Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber has been a mainstay of the Swiss watch industry for more than 50 years, finding its way into hundreds of watch models, under many dozens of names, and providing the technical base for numerous high complications over the years. Why is it so ubiquitous and still such an enduring presence in the watch world today? Here is a brief history of the "workhorse" mechanism that became the world's most famous and familiar chronograph movement.   Valjoux 7750 Roots: The Vallée de Joux   Sunset over the Vallée de Joux In actuality, the origins of the Valjoux 7750 go back much longer than the half-century it has actually been on the market. The company that came to be called  “Valjoux” started up at the very beginning of the 20th century, taking its original name, Reymond Frères SA, from its founders, brothers John and Charles Reymond. The company, which specialized in making mechanical chronograph movements for military and sport-oriented timekeepers, changed its name in 1929 to Valjoux - a shortened reference to the scenic Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, where it and many of its client watchmakers were located. The firm’s most successful and historically impactful creations included the manually wound, column-wheel-driven, monopusher Caliber 22, in 1914, and its even more significant successor, the smaller, longer-lived Caliber 23, in 1916. In honor of the founding brothers' surname, Valjoux movements were inscribed with a shield em...

Hands-On With The Albishorn Thundergraph Himalaya Fratello
Jul 13, 2025

Hands-On With The Albishorn Thundergraph Himalaya

There’s something about watches with a story - even if the story is almost entirely made up. When I strapped on Albishorn’s third model, the Thundergraph Himalaya, I wasn’t just wearing a watch but also connecting to a moment in history. Inspired by the 1952 Swiss expedition to Mount Everest, this watch combines vintage charm, […] Visit Hands-On With The Albishorn Thundergraph Himalaya to read the full article.

Out of Office: Three Weeks in Spain with the Tudor Black Bay, One of the Best Restaurants in the World, and Plenty of Jamón Ibérico Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay One Jul 11, 2025

Out of Office: Three Weeks in Spain with the Tudor Black Bay, One of the Best Restaurants in the World, and Plenty of Jamón Ibérico

I’m fortunate enough to have been to Spain twice, to Seville and to Barcelona in 2018 and 2019. I fell in love with the country, the history, culture, architecture, food and lifestyle, and had wanted to come back ever since. My wife and I are foodies who truly enjoy fine dining and new eating experiences. When we went to Barcelona the first time, I heard of an amazing restaurant called Disfrutar (“enjoy” in Spanish), but was unable to get reservations at the time. Disfrutar has three Michelin Stars and was named the best restaurant in the world in 2024. I tried many times to get a reservation, but they book out one year in advance to the day, and are understandably quite popular. Late one night while watching TV in May of 2024, I randomly went to their website and, lo and behold, was able to procure a reservation for two on Friday, May 9, 2025. Well, that settled it, we were going to Spain in 2025! Spain is a place that we are considering spending a significant amount of time after retirement, so we wanted to use this trip as an opportunity to explore some areas that might be suitable to live/stay part-time in the future. After much research and deliberation, our itinerary was set. We would arrive in Madrid, stay there for five days, take the train to Córdoba for the day, and continue on to Málaga for a five day stay. Then, we’d rent a car and take a few days to drive the Costa Del Sol (the southern coast), ending up in Valencia for three days. And finally, we’...

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jul 10, 2025

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review

Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Jul 9, 2025

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review

The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s.  Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs. Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case:  You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage...

Tudor Pelagos FXD: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jul 1, 2025

Tudor Pelagos FXD: The Complete Guide

When Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in late 2021 an important element of the brand's heritage was brought to light with it. A rich history of working with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, was now being tied to a modern creation from Tudor in a new partnership. While the history brings an unusual depth to this watch (no pun intended), it’s the manner in which the Tudor Pelagos FXD has been executed that has made it truly interesting to a modern audience. This wasn’t a throwback design commemorating the past. Rather, this was a function-forward, modern design, built to spec for a niche group of divers in the French Navy. The FXD is a natural evolution of the Pelagos ethos, and its slightly unconventional approach has cemented its place in the hearts of many enthusiasts.  Tudor took a slightly different route with the FXD when compared to the existing Pelagos references. The watch was designed with input from the Marine Nationale’s Commando Hubert unit in order to better suit its combat divers' needs for a specific maneuver they employed while traversing underwater. This maneuver would have them swimming segments in a set direction for a set period of time, before adjusting time and direction to tackle subsequent sections. To better assist in this exercise, the fully indexed bezel is bidirectional, and counts down rather than tracks elapsed time. This allows for fast, precise movement (this is a 120-click bezel), and no ambiguity when measuring a pre-set lengt...

First Look – The Parisian-Inspired Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Monochrome
Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Jul 1, 2025

First Look – The Parisian-Inspired Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

Synonymous with luxury fountain pens, Montblanc expanded its portfolio to include watches in 1997, with aesthetics inspired by its famous Meisterstück pens. Intent on demonstrating its watchmaking credentials, Montblanc acquired the legendary Minerva manufacture and released the Nicolas Rieussec chronograph in 2007. An unusual chronograph with revolving registers and a fascinating history, the Nicolas Rieussec […]

Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Jun 29, 2025

Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf

Like many watch brands, TAG Heuer regularly produces limited or special editions. The difference, and advantage, however, is the brand’s history and involvement with top-tier motorsports. Legions of racers wore vintage Heuer watches during the golden age of racing in the 1960s. None, though, stand out quite like the Monaco. The groundbreaking square watch is […] Visit Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf to read the full article.

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Bulova Unveils Another Exclusive Snorkel Jun 28, 2025

Chicago Style: Bulova Unveils Another Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair Chicago

When it comes to the Windup Watch Fair, each stop on the tour has its own distinct personality-and for Chicago, it’s all about bold character, deep history, and a certain cool confidence that comes from being the cultural capital of the Midwest. To celebrate both 150 years of their company and 10 years of the Windup Watch Fair, Bulova returns with another exclusive timepiece from its new, cult-favorite Snorkel series. This time, the brand turns its eye to the Windy City with a striking charcoal grey colorway that captures the urban elegance of downtown Chicago and reflects the sleek contours of one of its most iconic landmarks: Cloud Gate. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. The post Chicago Style: Bulova Unveils Another Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair Chicago appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Cartier Crash Alternatives For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Jun 27, 2025

Cartier Crash Alternatives For Every Budget

We’re back at it again with another "alternatives" roundup for some of the most iconic watches in watchmaking history, and in this episode, we’re getting more quirky than we ever have before. Which is only fitting given today’s subject, which is one of the most subversive watch designs of all time: the illustrious Cartier Crash.  Before I launch into some quick Cartier Crash history and then contemporary alternatives at multiple budgets, let’s establish some key design ingredients in the recipe at hand. Because I didn’t want to make you all eat up some AliExpress Cartier Crash phonies, and because the design is so iconic that most watchmakers haven’t really attempted their own imitations, I will be leaning into asymmetry or hints at surrealism here instead of more 1:1 design alternatives. Before I begin, I will say that the avant-garde era of the 1960s and '70s, before the big houses had such rigid design codes, is one of my favorites in watchmaking history. Here in the modern age, many brands seem less willing to experiment boldly, and really keep things, largely, safe. Still, there are some asymmetrical watch gems out there, and below, they will get a little time in the spotlight. I will warn you now that on the current market, prices for more bold watch designs run a little steep, so the budget I’m working around here is at a higher price point than I try to stick to (though I have thrown in some affordable options). But given the exorbitant prices of the...

First Look – The New Platinum & Salmon Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Monochrome
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Jun 26, 2025

First Look – The New Platinum & Salmon Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon

The small German town of Glashütte is steeped in watchmaking history, as we all know. No less than 12 brands, from high-end to more accessible, are nestled there, making it the historic and beating heart of German mechanical watchmaking. Being able to bear the town’s name on one’s dial is also something quite special, as […]

Introducing – New Colours and a Steel Bracelet for the Longines Conquest Heritage Monochrome
Longines Conquest Heritage Jun 26, 2025

Introducing – New Colours and a Steel Bracelet for the Longines Conquest Heritage

The Conquest collection holds a rather special place in the history of Longines. It was Longines’ first collection to be trademarked – in 1954 with the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property. This was a pivotal moment for Longines as organising models by collection increased product identification. Since then, the name has remained and today […]