Hodinkee
Steal Vs. Splurge: Minimalist Madness With NOMOS And Junghans
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Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: How The Reverso Flipped My Position On New Watches
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute To 1931 US Edition was my first high-end modern watch, and the first watch I had engraved. And it set the stage for the collector I am today.
Deployant
Review: the new IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Blue Angels®
IWC Schaffhausen has launched three new chronographs in its Pilot’s Watches collection. The new ceramic models are collaborative timepieces that the brand created in the context of its military programme with squadrons of the U.S. Navy.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Why I just can’t do vintage watches
I remember my plane ride back from Baselworld 2019. I was still coming off the high of my first show and all the beautiful new pieces I was fortunate enough to handle. (Which was a good thing because I needed to stay up if I wanted to avoid the jet-lag) As I tried my hardest … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why I just can’t do vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Just the things you need to know about the new Apple Watch Series 7 (including that 20% bigger screen)
Technology requires innovation to maintain its relevance. It is a constant arms race for manufacturers like Samsung and Apple, with both powerhouse tech giants looking to outdo and outperform the other in order to impress the billions of people who engage with their products. Today the Apple Watch Series 7 was unveiled, but this time … ContinuedThe post Just the things you need to know about the new Apple Watch Series 7 (including that 20% bigger screen) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5070/1P – Black Dial on Bracelet
Distinctive with its wide, flat bezel, the ref. 5070 was Patek Philippe’s last chronograph powered by the CH27-70 movement derived from the Lemania 2310. At 42 mm in diameter, the ref. 5070 was the largest high-end chronograph on the market at its launch in 1998. Amongst the four versions of the ref. 5070 – in rose, yellow, or white gold as well as platinum – the platinum version is the rarest. Around 250 were made according to Sotheby’s, with the standard guise for the platinum case being being a metallic, muted-blue dial. Produced at the “special request of an important client” in 2012, the ref. 5070/1P-010 has a black dial, while preserving the standard dial design with its large, applied Arabic numerals in white gold. While the standard model is has the model reference 5070P, this example has the suffix “/1P”, indicating the monochromatic dial is matched by a platinum “brick” bracelet, an uncommon option only available via special order. Importantly, both the black dial and bracelet are mentioned on the certificate, which indicates the watch was sold at the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva. The combination of a platinum case, black dial, and matching bracelet – familiar and simple but endlessly striking – has been seen before on other chronograph models, including a ref. 5004P that sold at Christie’s in 2019. But this is the first ref. 5070P in this livery to be offered publicly. Estimated at HK$4-8 million, or US$500,000-1 million, the uniq...
Quill & Pad
Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow: Embrace Your Guilty Pleasure!
The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow might look a bit whimsical at first, but it delivers joy in a very high-end way. Hublot has quite a reputation to uphold when it comes to rainbow watches after having launching its first in 2017, and this new watch feels like the brand has upped its game substantially. So embrace your guilty pleasure and find your pot of gold!
Revolution
Presenting The “Nuclear Option” for Revolution & The Rake
Introducing the world’s first Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in Black Ceramic. The “Nuclear Option” for Revolutionand The Rake is a limited edition of 30 pieces, priced at USD $19,550. Available to purchase now on RevolutionWatch.com.
Deployant
New: Sinn 103 Classic 12
Sinn releases a new 600-piece limited classic chronograph with a ceramic bezel insert to mark the 60th anniversary. Presenting the Sinn 103 Classic 12.
Deployant
Musings: the new Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black
The watch looks very attractive despite its all black color. The spinning dial with all that diamonds and the contrasting satin-polished ceramic surfaces make for a highly reflective timepiece. Subtle bling if one were to term it. Priced at USD 27’300, the limited edition to 200 piece collaboration piece is expected to be highly collectible especially in Japan, where the artist Takashi Murakami hails from and where Hublot has a super fan base.
SJX Watches
IWC to Keep Time on First All-Civilian Space Flight
Slated to be the first space flight with an entirely civilian crew, Inspiration4 take off in September 2021 for a three-day orbit of Earth. Operated by SpaceX, the space travel company founded by Elon Musk, the mission will keep time with the help of IWC, which has created the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Inspiration4” for the four-person crew. Featuring white ceramic cases and blue-lacquered dials, the four watches will be sold at auction after the space flight, with proceeds going to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, a paediatric hospital funded by donations that treats severely ill children and teenagers for free. Initial thoughts Being four watches that will be sold to benefit a good cause, the Inspiration4 chronographs are certainly a good thing. It helps that the design is appealing. Though the overarching elements of the watch are familiar – white ceramic and blue – they are combined in a novel manner for IWC. Both the star-speckled dial and white ceramic case are unique in the IWC line up. But the fact that these four are the first-ever Pilot’s watches in white ceramic (aside from prototypes from two decades ago) probably hints at something similar in the pipeline. If, and when, such a watch does emerge, I hope the production version will be smaller than the 44.5 mm that the Inspiration4 is, though that’s unlikely since the ceramic chronographs are all that size. Four travellers The four watches have been made for the crew of Inspiratio...
Time+Tide
The Bulgari Aluminium GMT is the ultimate travel-cool watch for your next summer holiday
I have a secret crush and an unrequited love for metal. Not the usual dazzle of gold or techy titanium, but another silk surfaced alloy, the unusual feel of aluminium. This time not heavy – like the music blasting me through gym time in my headphones, this is oh so light. I still remember that … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Aluminium GMT is the ultimate travel-cool watch for your next summer holiday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Piaget Introduces the Mid-Size Polo 36 mm
After a major facelift in 2016, the Piaget Polo has evolved into a thin but sporty watch available in a variety of guises, including the ultra-thin, skeletonised version introduced earlier in the year. But all of the Polo models to date are masculine, with the smallest model a sizeable 42 mm in diameter (and the high complicated Emperador models even larger). Now Piaget has finally taken the covers off the Piaget Polo Date 36 mm, essentially a mid-sized version of the Polo sports watch. It’s a straightforward watch – automatic, three hands, and date – with either a little or a lot of bling. Initial thoughts Given the popularity of luxury-sports watches, the introduction of the Polo Date 36 mm is a natural progression, while also making sense since there are increasingly enthusiasts, both male and female, who want such watches in a smaller format. That said, the new Polo is primarily a feminine watch, especially since all versions are set with diamonds. Even the understated base model in steel with a blue dial has diamond hour markers. Price wise, the Polo Date 36 mm is pretty competitive, both against its larger sibling as well as alternatives from the competition. For instance, the steel version with diamond markers is priced at US$13,100, which is about 10% pricier than the 42 mm version – that doesn’t have any diamonds – and a lot more affordable than many high-end luxury-sports watches. Still, the Polo is fairly priced for what it is. They are executed ...
Time+Tide
Crossing the threshold: The first time I bought a watch over $1000
Many of us within the watch community can remember the moment we fell in love with a piece. Whether it was a textured dial or a complication that caught our interest, that moment creates a sense of euphoria that’s impossible to forget. Immediately following that high, we come back down to earth and commence “The … ContinuedThe post Crossing the threshold: The first time I bought a watch over $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Norqain Adventure Neverest Line
Three High-Climbing New Models Featuring The Brand’s Higher-Spec Movement.
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Edition
Essentially a dressed-up version of the Monsieur in black ceramic, the Monsieur Superleggera Edition takes inspiration from the J12 Superleggera, a chronograph named after the ultra-light racing cars of the mid-20th century. Like the J12, the Monsieur Superleggera has an obvious automotive theme in its design, with its time display redesigned to resemble a speedometer. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of the Monsieur de Chanel in its earlier iterations, including the original model in “beige” gold and more recent version in ceramic and marble. They were all clean, stylish, and mostly monochromatic – and equipped with a sophisticated, attractive movement. The Superleggera Edition has the same movement, but the style is the opposite. It has a techno-automotive style that tries a bit too hard for my tastes. While the texturing and scales have a clear automotive inspiration, they don’t add much to the visual appeal of the watch. Ironically, the inspiration for the new Monsieur, the J12 Superleggera of 2005, actually looks more streamlined, despite being a chronograph. Still, the Monsieur Superleggera probably like a fancy bodykit for a car – it’ll divide opinions. Anyone who finds the plainer Monsieur boring would applaud this. Superleggera Italian for “super light”, Superleggera was an Italian coachbuilder that specialised in lightweight automobile bodies comprising a tubular steel frame cover in thin, aluminium-alloy panels. Perhaps the most famous automobile w...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m
Historically best known for ultra-advanced quartz and solar-powered watches – including the most accurate watch ever – Citizen has been on a tear recently with good, old-fashioned mechanical watches. The Japanese watchmaker started the year the high-end with The Citizen Caliber 0200, and then moved onto something more accessible but still sporting an integrated bracelet. More recently it took the covers off the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m ref. NB6004-08E. Oversized and aggressively styled, the new Promaster is eminently affordable – retail is about US$1,000 – but kitted out with impressive features, including a hardened case as well as a magnetism-resistant in-house movement, which makes it excellent value. (And it has a cool, glow-in-the-dark buckle.) Initial thoughts In my early days as a watch enthusiast, I had a soft spot for Seiko dive watches, because they were diverse in style and budget friendly. Citizen, on the other hand, didn’t feature as much, because it only offered one or two notable mechanical dive watches as the company largely focused on solar-powered watches (and still does). But Citizen is expanding its repertoire at a measured pace, but making tremendous progress. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a single model, but offered in several variants (though availability of each version varies throughout the world). Citizen lent me the base model – brushed titanium with a black dial – for a few days. On paper, the watch is high s...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Audacity of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept
A relentless pursuit of diminishing returns seems to be the norm in the world of high-end watchmaking. Better finishing, lightness, longer power reserve, or chronometric performance, refined and enhanced to the nth degree – there is always something to improve, but by tinier and tinier margins. Brands and watchmakers, in turn, often develop a specific niche, trying to best each other with ever-smaller improvements. In the niche of ultra-thin watches, there are only a handful of serious players. Piaget is one such player. The brand’s forte is thickness, or rather, thinness – Piaget has held the record for the thinnest production watch on multiple occasions, with only a handful of rivals able to best its various records. And now it’s the reigning champ once again with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC). Just 2 mm high in its entirety, the AUC is so thin it looks almost like an optical illusion in photos – and a prop in real life. But it is a perfectly functional – and water-resistant – mechanical wristwatch. So the question is, how did Piaget do it? And of course, do the diminishing marginal gains justify the retail price of approximately 400,000 Swiss francs? Altiplano evolution Prior to the AUC, Piaget’s best-known attempt at the crown was the Altiplano 900P. Released in 2013, the Altiplano 900P stands just 3.65 mm high. It held the record of the thinnest mechanical watch on the market until 2015, when the title taken by Piaget’s sister brand, Jaeg...
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition
While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...
Quill & Pad
Watch Customization: The Top Of The Pyramid – Reprise
To the “right” person and for the “right” price anything can be customized – whisky, cars, shampoo, and, of course, timepieces. This second article in Chris Malburg’s watch customization trilogy shines a light on the high-end of the watch customization spectrum, uncovering three uber-exclusive brands that work in the stratosphere of the customization price range revealing what it takes to get the job done.
Quill & Pad
‘Agave’ (Get It?) My Heart To Tequila: A Brief History And Tasting Notes By A Very Recent Convert – Reprise
Ken Gargett has been reliably informed that there are tequilas now considered quality spirits, designated for sipping – he admits that he swallowed this obvious falsehood on an occasion many years ago, but in the interests of research once again he sallied forth. Sharing the results of his investigations here, he dips into two high-end tequilas: Fortaleza and Calle 23. Olé!
Quill & Pad
Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis & Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon: The Fancier Side Of Montblanc
The new Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon and Star Legacy Metamorphosis are both watches that might convince anyone that Montblanc makes only high-end mega creations. They are standout pieces from a brand normally known for more accessible luxury in the watch world. But these timepieces are incredible examples of high horology and worth further inspection.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Watchmaking Is Dead. Long Live Watchmaking!
Tough timely talk on tick-tock tech.
Revolution
To New Depths: Tissot Seastar 2000
Tissot introduces a high-performance dive watch aimed to meet the needs of the professional saturation diver with an impressive array of technical features.
Quill & Pad
Crash Course In Flieger (Pilot) And B-Uhren (Navigator) Watches Covering Both Historic And Modern Examples (Pilot’s Watch Photofest!) – Reprise
The majority of today's numerous flieger-style watches are inspired by the now-iconic German pilot’s and navigator's watches of World War II, becoming a genre unto themselves. Bhanu Chopra flies high to take a deep dive into the long history of this popular style.
Time+Tide
7 Seiko Spring Drive watches you should know about from past and present
We share Seven Seiko Spring Drive watches from past and present that shine a spotlight on Seiko's ingenious tech.The post 7 Seiko Spring Drive watches you should know about from past and present appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers’ Online Auction
Sotheby’s latest online sale is in a quirky combination of luxury watches and high-end sneakers – some of which cost more than the watches. Fortunately the large majority of the 164 lots are horological, with a selection of watches that’s diverse and interesting, led by a couple of heavyweight top lots. The heavyweights are quite literal, both complicated watches in platinum from brands widely regarded as benchmarks in contemporary watchmaking: an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with a platinum case and bracelet, along with the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous “Phantom”. The sale also includes more esoteric watches that might be overlooked, including as a retailer-edition Patek Philippe Calatrava with ruby markers, and a Grand Seiko “First” remake in platinum. The Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers auction is live online from now until June 8, 2021. The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available here. Lot 8201 – F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Platinum Introduced in 2004, the F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain was the successor to the original Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. Like the original, the Tourbillon Souverain combined both a tourbillon regulator and constant force mechanism in a quest for accuracy. Its most obvious distinction against its predecessor was the small seconds at six linked to the remontoir mechanism. The Tourbillon Souverain itself was replaced in 2019 by something bigger and vertical, making it increasingly uncomm...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Hermès H08 Automatic
Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2021, the H08 is an all-new men’s watch from Hermès. Featuring a cushion-shaped case and a Vaucher movement, the H08 is typical of Hermes in its restrained, thoughtful styling exemplified by the custom typography. Hermès described the H08 at its launch as a relatively affordable, everyday watch with a simple, high-quality execution – which is accurate. Though it comes from a brand better known for its handbags and scarves, the H08 is a watch done well in many ways. Initial thoughts The H08 is surprisingly appealing in the metal. Slim and lightweight, it has a design that is interesting despite being simple. And its technical credentials are solid, albeit not fancy, with the H1837 movement inside being a Vaucher calibre. Although the H08 does evoke other watch designs, it still manages to look original. And it does look like a Hermes product, which might be important to some buyers, thanks to the touch of orange in the seconds hand that remains discreet enough to suit those who don’t care for obvious emblems. The H1837 Characterised by geometric shapes, the styling is modern while incorporating accents that illustrate Hermes’ traditional attention to detail. The font used for the hour numerals, for instance, was designed specifically for the H08 and echoes the cushion shape of the case. And the same font is used for the date, ensuring perfect consistency in its typography (though it does impact legibility of the date somewhat). On t...
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire
Bell & Ross has long featured the skull on its watches, a motif derived from its military-inspired designs. Modelled on the skull emblem often used by airborne units, the B&R; skull watch has been refined over the years, with the latest being an all-ceramic wristwatch incorporating an automaton. For Only Watch 2021, the watchmaker has created the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire, a vivid, orange-tinted crystal skull encased in clear sapphire. It’s entirely incongruent with the brand’s typical no-no-nonsense aesthetic, but strikingly upbeat. Initial thoughts The original Cyber Skull is interesting for its materials and form movement featuring an automaton, making it a good base for the Only Watch edition, which departs from the all-black look in the direction of attractive and quirky. Bell & Ross didn’t disappoint in its Only Watch endeavour. Clean, contemporary, and clear, the sapphire version is completely different from its past skull watches. The watch has a bright feel, with the orange being bringing levity (and echoing the colours of Only Watch 2021). And it’s a big plus that the watch is technically unusual. While most B&R; watches are powered by off-the-shelf ETA or Sellita movements (which, to be fair are unfailingly reliable), the Cyber Skull Sapphire is equipped with a proprietary movement in the shape of a skull. It’s always the most valuable watches offered by high horology brands that get the most attention at Only Watch, so the more affordable watches in ...
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Tudor Black Bay GMT One
Tudor’s entry into Only Watch 2021 is typical – a reinterpretation of one of its current models – but at the same time strikingly unusual. The Black Bay GMT One is a dual time zone with a heavily aged finish on the case and bracelet, along with an open back showing off a movement similar to that found in the recent Black Bay Ceramic. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are ordinarily excellent quality and tremendous value, though most are styled within certain aesthetic confines. The brand gets to do things differently at Only Watch, and the Black Bay GMT One is probably the most interesting to date. Most Tudor watches look shiny and new, and even those that acquire a patina remain pristine under the crystal. The GMT One is purposefully aged, even on the dial and movement, which gives it a lived-in look that’s appealing in a sports watch. Granted, the aged bracelet seems a bit much – I’d wear it on a strap – but given that there’ll only be one of these and it’ll sell for about US$350,000 that’s a moot point. Lastly, it’s notable that the GMT One is powered by a Master Chronometer movement, perhaps a reference to the strategic genius of the similar movement found in the Black Bay Ceramic. Slightly worn The GMT One has a case steel and bracelet that are identical to that found on the standard model, except for the surface treatment. Both are finished with a black coating that is then partially and randomly worn off via tumble polishing, creating an aged-...