Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original SeaQ Northern Tide: A Turquoise North American Exclusive Edition
Glashütte Original releases a pair of SeaQ Northern Tide Limited Edition watches done in a turquoise dial for the North American market.
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Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original releases a pair of SeaQ Northern Tide Limited Edition watches done in a turquoise dial for the North American market.
Fratello
Nomos is very dear to my heart, and the brand’s Tetra collection must be one of my favorites. The clean Bauhaus dial design works so well in these square watches with subtle, almost Art Deco-style lugs. Currently, you can get a Nomos Tetra with either a 27.5mm or 29.5mm case. For this summer, the brand […] Visit The Nomos Tetra 27 Is The Ultimate Style Flex to read the full article.
Fratello
If you clicked on this article, it probably means that Swatch didn’t select you as one of the 1,969 lucky people who can buy the MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 with its Moonshine Gold dial, hands, and pushers. If it is of any comfort to you, none of us at Fratello got one either. […] Visit Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead to read the full article.
Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier marks its thirty years of independent watchmaking with a platinum trilogy of mechanically sophisticated models that offer on-demand complications. Reflecting the collection’s spirit of understated elegance, the complications appear almost magically when required and then disappear to restore the dial’s visual purity. Crafted from head to toe in luxurious 950 platinum, the trilogy […]
WatchRider
The Seiko 5 Sports line has long been the gold standard for enthusiasts seeking a perfect blend of reliability, style and accessibility. Now, Seiko is elevating that reputation further with the release of the HDB001K1 and HDB002K1. Bringing the coveted GMT complication to the compact, rugged Field series for the first time, these timepieces are poised to become the ultimate daily-wear companions for travelers and adventurers alike. A Design Built for the Real World Both the HDB001K1 and HDB002K1 honor the classic “trench watch” aesthetic that defined mid 20th century field timepieces. With a versatile 39.4mm case diameter, these watches offer a refined, manageable footprint that sits comfortably on almost any wrist. The build is undeniably robust. Encased in high-quality stainless steel and featuring 100m water resistance, these watches are designed to handle everything from rainy commutes to light outdoor excursions. The aesthetic is tied together by a sophisticated five row stainless steel bracelet, which provides a premium feel that pairs just as well with a casual weekend outfit as it does with office attire. At the heart of both models is the Seiko Caliber 4R34, a reliable automatic movement that quickly became a fan favorite. A Tale of Two Dials Seiko is offering this rugged traveler in two highly textured, military-inspired colorways: The HDB001K1 “Khaki Drill” (Green) For those who want their watch to look like it belongs in an overgrown forest. I...
WatchRider
Citizen has added a limited-edition chapter to the sportier side of the Tsuyosa family. Reference NJ0238-57E is officially called the Tsuyosa Shore, but its textured gradient-black dial, warm gold-coloured accents and steel bracelet give it a noticeably more vintage character than the bright colours usually associated with the collection. A darker Tsuyosa Shore The theme is “Time Slip,” Citizen’s description of a design intended to feel as though it has travelled back from another era. The black dial has a grainy surface rather than a flat glossy finish, while the gold-coloured hands, applied hour markers and bezel scale add warmth without using artificial patina. A cyclops magnifier sits over the date at three o’clock, and the broad markers keep the watch easy to read. This is not simply a standard Tsuyosa with a different dial. The 40 mm stainless-steel case carries a 120-click, unidirectional rotating bezel, making the Shore look closer to a compact retro sports watch. Citizen specifies a thickness of 12.5 mm and a weight of 149 grams. The three-link steel bracelet uses a push-button triple-fold clasp and fits wrists from 142 to 206 mm. Built for everyday water use A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and both the hands and hour markers are luminous. Water resistance is rated at 10 bar, or 100 metres, so swimming and normal water-side use are within its remit. It should not be mistaken for a professional ISO-certified dive watch, but the rotating bezel, strong ...
SJX Watches
Late last year, Rolex unveiled its accessories line, comprised of a range of cufflinks and the Submariner Date Desk Clock ref. 909010LN. In the typical Rolex fashion, the new accessories are conservatively styled; the desk clock is essentially a Submariner face enlarged to 80 mm. But in typical Rolex fashion, the clock is impressively made. The Submariner desk clock is an impressive piece of desk-bound timekeeping. Execution is top class with flawless fit and finish, while the mechanics (or more accurately, electronics) are advanced: the quartz movement incorporates a 400-year perpetual calendar, and surprisingly, decorative finishing. Initial thoughts The Submariner desk clock is an impressive object, sizeable, heavy, and clearly well made. It has to be seen – and held – in person to understand the quality of make. Elements like the brushed steel case (that’s ironically not water resistant), engraved bezel insert, and decorated movement speak to the precision manufacturing and finishing. This clock is a beautifully-made industrial creation. That said, the design is a boring. It’s basically a Submariner face blown up to 80 mm. Fans of the design will be pleased as Rolex did replicate the details of the wristwatch artfully, right down to the engraved flange around the dial and tiny crown within “Swiss made”. Fortunately, the insides of the clock are more advanced than the design. The cal. 8335 displays the time and date, but the date is actually a secular calend...
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, a breaking news story, of sorts. Our friends at Worn & Wound have acquired Lorier Watches. It's a story of success for the New York-based boutique brand that started way back in 2017 with a mission to make vintage-inspired watches, designed to be worn every day, at an approachable price. In a way, it's a tale of too much success. Lorier co-founders, the husband and wife team Lauren Ortega and Lorenzo Ortega, struggled with the rapid growth of the small company, and the inability to meet demand for their products took a toll on the two-person operation. They considered winding up the brand, as it were, but a talk with Blake Malin, the co-founder of the well-established content, retail, and watch event company Worn & Wound, also based in New York, set them on a different path. Lorier founders Lorenzo Ortega (right) and Lauren Ortega (left). Worn & Wound co-founder and CEO Blake Malin. The acquisition of Lorier is the first time Worn & Wound has acquired a watch brand. Malin and Lorenzo Ortega join us to talk about how the deal came about and what's next for both Lorier and Worn & Wound. Though Ortega spent his formative years in Geneva until he was about 18, it's a decidedly American business story in the watch industry. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so...
Monochrome
Hamilton, once one of the largest American watchmakers, has a long tradition of accessible, robust field watches and military-inspired timepieces, a style that’s been crucial for the brand with its Khaki Field Collection. While most of the models are modelled after the mid-20th-century Hamilton Hacked watches, some editions took the brief at face value, while some, […]
SJX Watches
Earlier this year, TAG Heuer unveiled the latest iteration of a longstanding model, the Monaco Chronograph TH20. It’s essentially a reissue of the Monaco ref. 1133 made famous by Steve McQueen, but not a one-for-one remake, and it’s the best to date. The Monaco TH20 retains the familiar dial design and case outline, but the case has been reworked in both design and material. The square case is sleeker and more lightweight, being in titanium instead of steel. And it gets upgraded with the TH20 movement, instead of the ETA 2894-2 found in many earlier generations of the model. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the Monaco, especially the ref. 1133 B. It’s a distinctive and arguably iconic design that evokes the 1970s. And it’s different from more famous 1970s designs, which are mostly sports watches with integrated bracelets. Though the Monaco is not particularly ergonomic due to the size and shape, it is cool. The ref. 1133 remake has been in TAG Heuer’s catalogue for a long, long time with many, many iterations to date. Most earlier generations were powered by the ETA 2894 – an ETA 2892 with a module on top – that was a convenient solution for the left-hand crown. The new Monaco is an all-around upgrade with the in-house TH20 movement and titanium case. The TH20 is a competent calibre with solid specs, albeit still very industrial, but good enough for the price segment. The titanium case is a less obvious improvement in terms of design, but it improves the ...
WatchRider
DOXA has returned to the world of novelist, explorer and shipwreck hunter Clive Cussler with its lightest tribute yet. Released on July 15—the day Cussler would have turned 95—the SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler is limited to 300 pieces and recasts the original 1967 SUB 300 in Grade 5 titanium. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: WatchRider. A titanium dial with hidden history The most unusual detail is not the metal case but the dial. DOXA constructs it from two superimposed Grade 5 titanium plates. The upper plate is laser-cut, creating a layered relief, while the sandblasted finish gives the grey surface an appropriately industrial character. Black lacquered hands preserve contrast and the oversized orange minute hand supplies the familiar DOXA signal colour. The dual-plane titanium dial and two-scale bezel. Image: DOXA. The date disc and the numerals 15, 7 and 31 appear in orange, spelling out Cussler’s birth date: July 15, 1931. The unidirectional bezel is equally busy for a reason. Its polished outer scale shows DOXA’s no-decompression depths in orange, while the brushed inner track carries a conventional 60-minute scale in black. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: DOXA. Familiar SUB 300 proportions, less weight The cushion-shaped case measures 42.5 mm across, 45 mm lug-to-lug and 13.4 mm thick. Grade 5 titanium is used for the case, bezel, screw-down crown and screw-down caseback, while an anti-reflective glass-box sapphire crystal preserves the domed profi...
WatchRider
Officially known as the Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W, the latest Star Wars collaboration goes straight for the franchise’s most recognizable hardware. The red-and-black metal dial uses original embossed artwork to turn the Death Star into a richly textured backdrop, while a swarm of TIE Fighters appears to fly above it. An applied Galactic Empire crest occupies 12 o’clock, and the date window sits at 3 o’clock without trying to compete with the miniature space battle. Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W. Death Star detail, wearable hardware Citizen did not stop at decorating the dial. The angular, hexagonal 42 mm stainless-steel case is finished in dark gray ion plating and shaped to recall the six-sided solar panels of a TIE Fighter. A matching ion-plated steel bracelet mixes brushed surfaces with glossy central details and closes with a fold-over clasp and twin push buttons. A ring of oversized five-minute numerals around the crystal reinforces the industrial styling, with selected markings picked out in red. The watch looks almost architectural from the front, but a relatively conventional crown and three-link bracelet keep the construction familiar. The rear view continues the theme with an engraved Imperial crest, Star Wars branding and Lucasfilm licensing. It also confirms 10-bar water resistance, equivalent to 100 metres. A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the elaborate dial, giving the watch specifications suited to regular wear rather than di...
Hodinkee
What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...
SJX Watches
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne’s flagship launch for the year, so far, is the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. It follows a familiar template, applying the desirable “Lumen” treatment to a complicated, top-of-the-line model. But unlike earlier Lumen editions, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is more than a mere cosmetic makeover. The unique calendar display requires a more complex dial construction, and the movement has been reworked for visual impact. Even though the concept is predictable – and predictably pricey – the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is unexpectedly appealing. Initial thoughts This is stating the obvious, but the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is clearly the most appealing iteration of the most complicated Lange 1. Visually it is more striking in both light and darkness, with the new look also adding to the intricacy of the dial construction. And because Lange doesn’t do things in half measures when it comes to movements, the L225.1 inside this has been reworked by some margin to solve one of the shortcomings of the original model, a tourbillon that was barely visible. The original Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar was and still is the most complicated version of Lange’s iconic watch design. All perpetual calendar indicators were cleverly incorporated in the Lange 1’s distinctive yet sensible layout. Add to that a tourbillon visible only on the back meant there was a lot going on ins...
WristBuzz
The fourth Doxa x Clive Cussler edition. Grade 5 titanium case, sandwich-cut titanium dial in Cussler's signature colours, Sellita SW200-1 COSC-certified movement, 300m water-resistance. Limited to 300 pieces at CHF 2,890 / EUR 3,190 / USD 3,390.
WristBuzz
The Dial Artist brings hand-painted colour to Christopher Ward's The Twelve, and the result is one of the most visually striking affordable watches of the year
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Casio's new G-Shock Luxe Black Collection brings redesigned hands, vapor-deposited markers, and a light-absorbing dial to the CasiOak.
Hodinkee
What We Know This week, Vacheron Constantin added two new 34.5mm Overseas models to the collection. There's a new version in steel with a red dial and a tone-on-tone version in 18k pink gold with a matching gold-toned dial. No, these new additions aren't the most groundbreaking introductions from Vacheron in recent times, but they are quite attractive and do well to flesh out the brand's small collection of mechanical mid-sized Overseas models. The distinct visual cues of the Overseas are all present on these models, with Vacheron's Maltese cross motif prominently shown on the bezel, crown, bracelet, and buckle. Proportions of certain elements like the bezel on this smaller Overseas feel quite thick, thanks to its relative sizing compared to the very compact overall dimensions of the watch, with a diameter of 34.5mm and a thickness of 9.33mm. Water resistance is rated to 150 meters, and there is a screw-down crown. Continuing the appeal of customization across the line, both versions come with three interchangeable straps: a full metal bracelet (with toolless micro-adjust), a rubber strap, and an alligator leather strap. The interchangeable strap options for the red dial Overseas. Though Vacheron is branding this as "a feminine take on sport-chic," the two executions released this week certainly can work on a wide array of wrists, thanks to eye-catching but versatile lacquered and sunray-brushed dials. The red dial of ref. 4600V/200A-H127 stands out, not just in hue, but a...
WristBuzz
The iconic Opus gets a warm makeover with a two-tone steel and red gold case and a skeletonised dial inspired by desert dusk
WristBuzz
One Swiss surprise with a hand-painted island dial, one Seiko you can lose in a beach bag, one G-Shock for pool days, and eight more in between. Ten watches to actually enjoy on holiday, from €91 to €8,100.
Monochrome
Look at most analogue watches, and you’ll see central hour and minute hands, and the majority have central seconds as well. It’s a perfected design that can be traced back to Ancient Egypt, when sundial shadows moved across the dial plate in a clockwise rotation. We’ve already looked at Unconventional Ways Watches Can Relay Time […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Longines follows up its 2024 release of the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve with a new colorway, adding a light blue opaline dial to the mix. Yes, this one's just a new dial color, but it offers a completely different feel from the three previous models in the very conservative shades of cream, grey, and black. The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve serves as an homage to a 1959 model from the brand with the same kind of power reserve indication, but you can bet that they weren't doing light blue in this watch back in the day. The hue on the front is a refreshing change, but the styling on the dial otherwise remains the same, with a sector dial framing the unique power reserve indicator right in the center. What makes it interesting is that the power reserve isn't just displayed by a rotating pointer, but rather by a dance between the two discs of the power-reserve hours track and the inner pointer. This means that, depending on how you've wound the watch, the positioning of the pointer from full to empty may not always be the same on the dial. This certainly makes for a less intuitive setup, though in all fairness, this piece of information is probably secondary compared to the time and date, for things you'd need at a glance. A date window sits at twelve o'clock, nicely framed in an appliqué, and is accompanied by applied hour markers throughout. The case is well-proportioned for a wide range of wrist sizes, although rather tall for a ...
Hodinkee
Among the ever-evolving sizes and colors of modern Tudor, we now have the latest (and smallest and most colorful) iteration of the brand's dive-inspired chronograph, the Black Bay Chronograph 39. Dubbed the "Bumblebee" for its bright yellow dial and black accents, it marks the progressive 39-ification of Tudor's core lineup and forms what I think will be a very appealing new offering for the brand. When Tudor returned to the American market in 2012, the brand's core offerings evolved around an initial 41mm footprint. This includes early hits like the Black Bay, the Heritage Chrono, and the Ranger. Then, in 2017, Tudor announced the Black Bay Chronograph 79350, a 41mm steel chronograph with 200 meters of water resistance and snowflake hands. Since then, the Black Bay Chronograph range has been tweaked, improved, and expanded considerably, with additional colors (including the recent pink and flamingo blue). But while we saw the Black Bay eventually offer the 39mm 58 range and the Ranger drop to 39mm (and later to 36mm), the Chronograph range remained steadfast at 41mm. While 41mm is within the range for a conventionally sized modern sports watch, the enthusiast taste has shifted toward the 39mm sweet spot (likely at least in part due to the success of the Black Bay 58 and the Pelagos 39). Additionally, as slightly smaller cases continue to be in vogue, more attention is (and was) being paid to case thickness. The 41mm spec of the Black Bay Chrono wears well, but it's not sm...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new Casio A140 draws from the F-91W and A168 but trades sharp edges for a softer, dressier silhouette. Three variants are available now.
Fratello
On the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon patent, we sit down with Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling to discuss the latest version of the Tourbillon 7047, the brand’s enduring appeal, and the future of one of watchmaking’s most historic names. Before taking the helm at Breguet on October 1st, 2024, Kissling served as Vice President of […] Visit Fratello Talks: Breguet’s CEO On The Latest Tradition 7047, 225 Years Of The Tourbillon, And The Brand’s Future to read the full article.
Fratello
The year after Breguet turned 250, the brand celebrates another big milestone, the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon. It does so with several gravity-defying watches, and we had the chance to experience the newest Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047, a platinum 25-piece limited edition outfitted with a spinning one-minute tourbillon and a fascinating fusée-and-chain mechanism. The […] Visit 225 Years After The Tourbillon’s Invention, The Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Spins In The Best Of Traditions to read the full article.
Monochrome
Akhor is a new Geneva indie brand carving a niche for high-end watchmaking, poetic design and top-end finishing. A collective project founded by Anissa Bader in 2025, Akhor is built around its floating dial architecture with a patented two-disc construction by sister company Clamax, a Geneva-based component and micromechanics manufacturer. Writing the next chapter, the […]
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko has announced a major refresh in their Evolution 9 collection across multiple metals and movements, and incorporating enthusiast favorite dial designs. A total of nine new watches have been announced as part of the update, and together they serve as what appears to be a new standard for Grand Seiko’s flagship collection. There’s a lot to chew on here, and depending on what interests you about Grand Seiko (or where you feel they have shortcomings) a number of different aspects of this update might be what draws you in. Everything they’ve announced, though, represents tangible improvement over what came before. First, the news that many enthusiasts will probably zero in on immediately: Grand Seiko’s micro-adjustable clasp now appears to be standard. After introducing it last year in a limited fashion, there were plenty of gripes about backwards compatibility and options for the future. The message here seems to be that the more heavily tapered bracelet with micro-adjustment built into the clasp will be a regular feature across Evolution 9 watches. Importantly, for these releases, that applies to both 37mm and 40mm references. Grand Seiko is also standardizing their premium alloys in steel and titanium in the Evolution 9 collection. Of the new watches introduced this week, the seven in steel are all in Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel alloy, which has a more lustrous shine and shows off Grand Seiko’s finishing more dramatically than standard stee...
Fratello
You just can’t take your eyes off the dial, can you? I couldn’t. The three Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Sunset, Alba, and Borealis watches do have a mesmerizing effect. That’s what a handmade, space-inspired guilloché dial combined with more unusual and, dare I say, exotic sơn mài lacquer does. But what you don’t notice […] Visit Is There A Cosmic Connection? Three Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Watches Land At Fratello HQ to read the full article.
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