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Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023

True to form, Patek Philippe has debuted more than a dozen new timepieces from its Rare Handcrafts collection at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo. Reserved exclusively for the Japanese market, the new collection includes dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches. Featuring traditional Japanese motifs, the new releases reflect Patek Philippe’s expertise in a range of precious crafts and techniques, including marquetry, guilloché, and various forms of enamelling including Grand Feu cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, and grisaille enamel.  The event is taking place at the Sankaku Hiroba expo centre in Shinjuku and runs from now until June 25, 2023. Admission is free and no registration is required to attend. Detail of the ref. 995/134G-001 “Shizuoka and Mount Fuji” pocket watch Dome clocks and table clocks When it comes to Patek’s Rare Handcrafts, nothing serves as a better backdrop for an artist’s skills than the brand’s iconic dome clocks. Measuring 213.5 mm tall and 128 mm in diameter, each clock is powered by the mechanical cal. 17’’’ PEND, which is conveniently rewound by an electric motor. While I often find that miniature paintings on wristwatch dials can look cramped at such a small scale, the large panels of a dome clock provide ample space for more dynamic compositions. Case in point is the Dome Clock ref. 20137M-001 “Hanami”, which uses Grand Feu cloisonné enamel to depict the Japanese custom of appreciatin...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch delivers vintage vibes for a bargain price Time+Tide
Jun 12, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch delivers vintage vibes for a bargain price

Vario are one of the most beloved microbrands, and despite the fact that they may not receive as much hype as others, they still hold onto an incredibly loyal fanbase. With an unbelievable ability to deliver quality for budget prices, Vario’s efforts retain a unique signature style while evoking vintage watches effortlessly. As a manufacturer … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch delivers vintage vibes for a bargain price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches Ep. 53: Forged Carbon Regatta Timing With Tissot & More Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix which Jun 11, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 53: Forged Carbon Regatta Timing With Tissot & More

With our first year behind us (thanks for all the well wishes!), we’re back with episode 53 of A Week In Watches with new releases from Tissot, Breguet, Seiko & more. One of our favorite watches of the summer (thus far) has come from Tissot, and it’s a forged carbon regatta timer called the Sideral. Yes, it’s a callback to something they’ve done in the past, and yes, it’s still awesome. With a carbon case and Powermatic 80 movement, this is a ton of watch (and funk) for about $1,100, see more here. Elsewhere, Breguet gives us a first look at new Type 20 and Type XX watches, with a stunning new movement and a date window that may leave you scratching your head. Head to the video on YouTube to give us your take on the date, as well as the rest of the watches in this week’s episode. Rounding things out, we’ve got news of a new Pontos S Diver from Maurice Lacroix, which is a welcome site from the brand, though we wonder if it could have done with a slight bit of modernization? Speaking of, Seiko has modernized their King Seiko with a trimmer case architecture and a new movement which brings a date to the regular production modern King Seiko. Finally, IWC has brought the silver dial back to the Mark Pilot watch and it works about as well as you’d expect, which is to say, pretty damn well. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com....

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN

Having surprised everyone with the Perpetual 1908, “Bubbles”, and “Puzzles”, Rolex continues to do the unexpected. Launched to mark the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126529 LN is a new model based on the latest-generation Daytona launched earlier this year. But the Daytona “Le Mans” is not merely a facelifted chronograph but contains the cal. 4132. The new movement swaps out the conventional 12-hour counter at nine for a 24-hour register in a nod to the famous endurance race that Rolex has sponsored for over two decades. But perhaps most pertinent for enthusiasts are sub-dials, which are modelled on the vintage Daytona “Paul Newman”. And while availability for the Daytona “Le Mans” will be limited, at least initially, it is a regular-production model that will be available at retailers and boutiques. Initial thoughts A new Daytona with a new movement is big news not because it’s majorly different – this is still very much a Daytona – but because Rolex rarely introduces new models outside of the annual watch fair in Switzerland. And when it does, the watch tends to be a surprise in more ways than one. The new Daytona is actually new, largely because contains a new calibre, a simple variation of the current Daytona movement, but one that is mechanically different nonetheless. The movement reflects the Rolex approach to engineering that does nothing in half measures. Even though the cal. 4132 inside the Daytona ...

Kylie Jenner’s five year old daughter Stormi is the latest to join our “Ice, Ice, Baby” list with solid gold Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 10, 2023

Kylie Jenner’s five year old daughter Stormi is the latest to join our “Ice, Ice, Baby” list with solid gold Rolex

The lives of the rich and famous may not be relatable for everyone, but there is something kinda sweet about a parent letting their child wear something of theirs. In some instances, celebrities take it to the next level, gifting highly luxurious objects such as timepieces to their young children. In such instances we see … ContinuedThe post Kylie Jenner’s five year old daughter Stormi is the latest to join our “Ice, Ice, Baby” list with solid gold Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023

The flagship model in Patek Philippe’s special edition line-up for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, the Quadruple Complication Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5308P-010 is an entirely new reference that becomes one of the most complicated watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue. Described as a quadruple complication because it has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and a twin chronograph, the ref. 5308P is a direct evolution of the ref. 5208. Both are essentially alike, save for the addition of the split-seconds mechanism in the ref. 5308P. Initial thoughts Like all of Patek Philippe’s top-of-the-line grand comps, the ref. 5308P is an imposing and heavy watch that makes a statement on the wrist (unlike the relatively compact ref. 5330G World Time created for the same event). And with the “rose-gilt opaline” dial, this is also visually striking and definitely hard to miss. Though it might seem similar to the ref. 5208, with only an additional seconds hand to set them apart, the ref. 5308P incorporates some interesting technical tweaks, including a revised isolator mechanism for the split seconds. Still, like the ref. 5208, the ref. 5308P is a modular grand complication with the perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronographs made up of modules stacked up under the dial. This is arguably a less sophisticated solution then an integrated chronograph (a perpetual calendar is conventionally a module regardless). Four comps The ref. 5308P has a dial in “ro...

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options Time+Tide
Porsche Design s new Chronograph 718 Jun 10, 2023

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options

As the famous slogan goes, “Porsche…there is no substitute”. A young Tom Cruise knew it after outrunning the bad guy with his father’s 928 in 1983’s Risky Business, and the legend rings true more than ever today. In celebration of the introduction of the new 718 Spyder RS, Porsche Design has made an introduction of … ContinuedThe post When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux and Saint Laurent Rive Droite Team Up for New Casquette 2.0 Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Jun 9, 2023

Girard-Perregaux and Saint Laurent Rive Droite Team Up for New Casquette 2.0

What began two years ago with a novelty produced for the 2021 edition of Only Watch has turned into a commercially available limited edition once again in the form of a collaboration between Girard-Perregaux and Saint Laurent. This is the Casquette 2.0 Saint Laurent 01, and if it looks a bit familiar to you, that’s because a very similar version was released last year. What was a mostly black affair has turned into an entirely black affair with this latest collaborative effort. The watch itself is still as unconventional as ever, recalling the original from 1976 (side note, what a legendary year for watches) in all its funky glory, and this time, it’s limited to just 100 units.  The Casquette is a conceptually interesting watch in that it captures an era and technology and design that departs from any established norms enough to stand out, but not enough to become impractical. It’s an alternate solution that we’ve seen manifest in a number of ways from other brands, from Bulova to MB&F;, but Girard-Perregaux captured it at its simplest, and most straightforward. The black ceramic case measures 42.40 x 33.60mm, and though it measures 14.6mm in thickness, it’s a tapering design to conform to the wrist, meaning it’s quite wearable thanks to the ergonomics of the case and narrow link bracelet. Where last year’s release had uncoated titanium components, this newest collaboration uses black PVD coated titanium components, such as the G-P badge, for a fully blacked ...

Citizen Announces Fresh Divers for the Summer, Including a New Fujitsubo and Smaller Promaster Dive Watches Worn & Wound
Citizen Announces Fresh Divers Jun 9, 2023

Citizen Announces Fresh Divers for the Summer, Including a New Fujitsubo and Smaller Promaster Dive Watches

If ever there was a time in the market for a reinvigoration of classics, it’s now. And one could argue, with the releases coming out of Citizen in June, that the Japanese brand is leading the way. From reworking one of their most iconic lines to adding a fuller scope to their existing collections, Citizen has made it a mission this Summer to provide a variety of exciting, elegant, and even eco-conscious alternatives to other watches in their existing line-up. For June, Citizen will be releasing three watch collections: the much-anticipated 37mm Promaster Dive, the Promaster Dive Automatic Super Titanium “Fujitsubo”, and the UNITE with BLUE Collection. Each one remains a variation on an existing theme within the Citizen universe, but with surprising, and sometimes intriguing, differences. 37mm Promaster Dive Dive watches entering everyday wear has been on the rise over the last decade and it seems that the new Promaster Dive is where Citizen has gotten their sea legs. By reducing the 44mm size to a more wearable 37mm, it not only makes the dive watch feel slightly less sporty, but also less clunky when worn with a long-sleeved shirt. This, in turn, will appeal to a wider audience and reintroduce the Promaster to a new generation of fans. Usually when there is a reduction in real estate on a watch, certain features have to be conceded for space. Not so with the smaller Promaster Dive. Citizen has made a conscious effort to keep all the reasons longtime divers love this...

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver There are Jun 9, 2023

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver

There are plenty of things we can choose to be frustrated by in the watch world. Rising prices, the increased importance of mysterious social media algorithms, outright chicanery, nonsense, and shenanigans in the auction world. Yes, these are forces contributing to making the hobby a little less enjoyable at times. But I like to focus on the bright spots, of which I’d argue there are more than enough to get excited about. One of those bright spots is the reemergence and wide availability of affordably priced, classic designs from thoughtfully resurrected heritage brands. Guillaume Laidet has become something of a specialist in this area, playing an integral role in the return of Vulcain, Excelsior Park, and Nivada Grenchen, the subject of this hands-on.  For a time, it seemed like a month couldn’t pass without a “new” brand that went dormant during the quartz crisis coming back with an updated version of their most popular model. So many of these attempts to capitalize on the popularity of vintage, neo-vintage, or whatever we’re calling it wound up failing, but the Nivada Grenchen strategy always felt different, and the brand continues to be successful a few years out from the relaunch because of Laidet’s forward thinking. Beyond the overall quality of the watches, which is consistently high, Nivada has always been presented as a real brand, and not simply a vehicle for launching one, or maybe two, watches. The idea of having a real collection for consumers to...

The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever Time+Tide
Breguet Type XX Jun 9, 2023

The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever

When you think of Breguet watches, the first word that comes to mind is probably guilloché. The maison is widely celebrated for their engine-turned dials, truly decorated by hand in a world where many other brands have moved towards stamping them. But Breguet is by no means one-dimensional. Sure, the brand’s namesake makes you think … ContinuedThe post The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Earlier Jun 9, 2023

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster

Earlier this week, leading Swiss-German newspapers Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) published a lengthy story about the possible fraud behind the record-setting sale of an Omega Speedmaster ref. 2915-1 at Phillips in 2021. Mystifying at the time, the CHF3.12 million result was a huge number that far exceeded past records for that particular Speedmaster. As NZZ revealed in its story, the Speedmaster in question was a “Franken” watch pieced together from assorted vintage components – and some fake parts – and it was purchased by Omega itself, on the advice of its then museum head. The allegations are that the then museum head was in cahoots with the seller of the watch. Omega has gone to the police with this, and also released a statement, noting in part, “Omega and Phillips were the joint victims of organised criminal activity involving the selling of this specific watch by auction.” The Omega Museum, which fortunately has enough correct and legitimate vintage Speedmasters on display. Image – Omega Both Omega and Phillips should have done more due diligence, but it appears a few bad actors were diligent in allegedly defrauding Omega. For more on the matter, Dutch watch publication Fratello published an excellent examination of the happenings. The alleged fraud has been covered widely in the mass media, from Bloomberg to Fortune, ironically the same publications that last year touted the success and value-appreciation of the Speedmaster. Mountains and molehills The ...

The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches Time+Tide
Junghans Meister Pilot models put Jun 9, 2023

The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches

Junghans adds three new versions to the Meister Pilot collection The new dial colours include sand and navy blue A rich history complements great value for money Even if it seems like it, not every pilot’s watch has to look the same. The Junghans Meister Pilot is a novel take on a concept that’s in … ContinuedThe post The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph

Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Treads Familiar Ground With The Twelve Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Jun 8, 2023

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Treads Familiar Ground With The Twelve

‘Integrated bracelet sport watch’ is likely a term you’re getting sick of hearing. The genre has reached a saturation point, it would seem. However, some of the new watches that find themselves in this category are indeed quite compelling. Watches like the new IWC Ingenieur, the Zenith Defy Skyline, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, and most recently, a surprising entry from Christopher Ward called The Twelve, which we introduced to you when it was launched heading into our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco. With this watch, Christopher Ward is staking a claim to the genre outside of its usual luxury connotations. Where the IWC, the Zenith, and the G-P (as well as many others) are priced around $10,000 or more, The Twelve hits the market in the much more palatable $1,000 range. The Twelve is well positioned to capitalize on the trend of the integrated bracelet sport watch in a way many others in this price range are not. They’ve built plenty of equity in the space, and have even brought some typically high-end collectors into their flock with the likes of the Bel-Canto. Where that watch embraced a level of originality, The Twelve is a direct interpretation of a well trodden design language, and Christopher Ward makes no bones about it being exactly that. In fact, whatever your thoughts on the watch itself, there’s something admirable about the recognition Christopher Ward is giving some of the all-time greats of the genre, while at the same time placing their own w...

Iconic Watches: The Ultimate List Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 8, 2023

Iconic Watches: The Ultimate List

The definition of an iconic watch is, of course, highly subjective, and a consensus on what makes a watch iconic is just about impossible to achieve. However, most of us likely agree on several key points. An iconic watch should be timeless in its appeal, influential in its design, and impactful in its market presence. Ideally, an iconic watch should also be one that has remained true to its original conception throughout the years and recognizable by even the most casual of watch enthusiasts. Often, a watch becomes iconic when it becomes associated with a celebrity or other historical figure, and some achieve iconic status simply by being the trailblazer for a certain complication or now-ubiquitous function or element. Our team took all of these factors into account while tackling the bold and frankly somewhat intimidating task of listing the world's most iconic watches. As you'll note upon reading the list, each watch we chose is defended with its Case for Icon Status based on the above criteria. Scroll down to read the list, which includes one iconic movement (you can probably guess which one) and four timepieces that might be a bit too new on the scene for definitive inclusion but which we can confidently call the Icons of Tomorrow. Of course, any listing such as this is guaranteed to generate opinions, which we encourage you to share in the comments section at the bottom. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 History: Even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994,...