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Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection Revolution
Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Jun 18, 2021

Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection

There’s a fresh breeze blowing through the world of watch design and floating on that breeze like a clump of gossamer goodness is Oris’ latest confection: the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. The case is the familiar and popular Divers Sixty-Five bronze, clocking in at a versatile 38mm across, domed sapphire crystal, rated to 100 metres and with a stainless steel caseback concealing the automatic calibre Oris 733 inside. The dial comes in three super sweet flavours, complemented by the use of bronze for the case and bracelet. What remains to be seen is how bronze - famous for how it tends to patina - will interplay with the dial. Will a hint of verdigris make the dials seem that much more delicious? Only time will tell.

EDITOR’S PICK: Matthew McConaughey and the tale of his dad’s fake Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Editor’s note It’s Father’s Jun 18, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Matthew McConaughey and the tale of his dad’s fake Rolex

Editor’s note: It’s Father’s Day in the northern hemisphere this weekend. Frankly, that’s a good enough excuse for us to relive this glorious yarn from Matthew McConaughey about his dad’s love for “shady deals” that led  him to make a regrettable purchase from the back of a van belonging to a man called Chicago John… … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Matthew McConaughey and the tale of his dad’s fake Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts Jun 17, 2021

Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition

While Breguet is associated with classical timepieces – and a history laden with gems that continue to inspire watchmakers today – it does have a significant history with military watches. In the mid-20th century, Breguet, along with a few other watchmakers, supplied the French military with the “Type 20” aviator’s chronograph. Breguet has referenced that military history since the military-inspired Type XX of 1994, which was succeeded by the more complex Type XXI and Type XXII. And now Breguet has just unveiled the Type XXI 3815, which has a titanium case and strikingly peculiar dials in two colours. The version with orange “lume” is especially striking Initial thoughts Breguet has been iterating the Type 20 for almost 30 years – rumour has it a replacement for the base model is due next year – and the Type XXI was an upgrade to the original that never gained the popularity of the original. The new Type XXI 3815 is the third variant of the model to date, and perhaps a missed opportunity. Most elements on the watch are taken from historical models, each correct on its own way – including faux-radium lume and a “big eye” register – but combined haphazardly. The result is an aesthetic that tries to be bold but ends up looking odd. The combination of elements on the dial leaves it off balance. The “big eye” counter feels too big, creating the impression it is far off centre, while the text under 12 o’clock leaves the dial top heavy. Add to t...

INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch Time+Tide
Hublot or Rado’s latest twist Jun 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch

I do love the idea of a ceramic watch in bold colours like the flashy drama of Hublot or Rado’s latest twist on the Captain Cook. But I’m still waiting for the first budget version of this cool material to try on for size. The new Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic series might present the Swiss … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video Time+Tide
Cartier Crash Jun 16, 2021

The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video

The Cartier Crash is a bit of an enigma in the history of the French brand. The story behind its Salvador Dali-esque design is far-fetched – a Cartier Tank was returned for repair to the London boutique after being in a car crash, the unusual shape the result of the gold melting in the heat … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial in Black SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 15, 2021

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial in Black

Back in 2019, Longines introduced the Heritage Classic, a remake of a 1934 watch with a “sector” dial. Combining a popular, retro style with an affordable price tag – we gave it a thumb-up in our review – the original Heritage Classic was a success. Now Longines has given the Heritage Classic a black dial, while keeping the rest of the formula the same. Initial thoughts Longines can’t be accused of being imaginative, but that’s perfectly fine as the brand’s forte, at least for watch enthusiasts, is its vintage remakes. In fact, the new Heritage Classic comes just months after the Avigation Bigeye in a new colourway was unveiled. Aside from the dial, the new Heritage Classic is identical to the 2019 model in every regard, so it has the same appeal as its predecessor, though I prefer the black dial over the silver. The 2019 Heritage Classic There’s an austerity to the dark dial that better fits the “sector” dial, which is occasionally known as a “scientific” dial. I already liked the clean and minimalist look before, and now its lines seem sharper in black. However, the black dial forgoes the heat-blued hands of the silver dial, which is a shame, but a necessity given the need for contrasting hands. Priced at US$2,150 on a leather strap and slightly more on a beads-of-rice bracelet, the new Heritage Classic also has the same price – a good thing since that the 2019 original was one of the best value propositions of the year. The new Heritage Cl...

RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell Time+Tide
Jun 15, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell

As reported last week by Alex Heath for The Verge, Facebook is reported to be working on its very own smartwatch, due for launch in the middle of 2022. This will be the first time the tech giant is making a play for your wrist real estate, taking on the mighty Apple Watch which remains … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Chrono Monopoussoir SJX Watches
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Jun 14, 2021

Up Close: Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Chrono Monopoussoir

An architect-turned-watch-designer who made his reputation with a distinctive, whimsical style, Alain Silberstein founded one of the most prominent independent watch brands of the 1990s. Located in Besançon, the historic centre of French watchmaking, the Alain Silberstein brand went under in 2012 but has since enjoyed a revival thanks to a collaboration with Louis Erard that gave birth to an affordable regulator-style wristwatch. More recently, Mr Silberstein designed a charming pendulum clock. An early Alain Silberstein from the 1990s, this one the uncommon Krono Saphir with a sapphire crystal case Now the designer is back with a set of wristwatches, once again made by Louis Erard, but this time designed from the ground up as an entirely new model. The Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein is made up of three watches, all having the same case and design cues, but featuring different complications. They are available individually or as a box set. The top-of-the-line model is the Le Chrono Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, an automatic, single-button chronograph. The other two watches in the set are priced identically but quite different: La Semaine shows the time along with the trademark Silberstein “Smileday” calendar, while Le Régulateur has a regulator-style display. The Triptyque with the Le Régulateur (left), La Semaine (centre), and Le Chrono Monopoussoir. Photo – Louis Erard We’re only going up close with the mono-pusher chronograp...

Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Jun 14, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique

Announced last year and finally complete, Vacheron Constantin’s flagship boutique in the United States just opened today in Manhattan on 57th Street, just as New York City is coming back to life post-pandemic with summer around the corner. Replacing its former location uptown at the corner of East 64th Street and Madison Avenue – which was the brand’s first boutique in the country – the new store is quite literally bigger and better. The brand’s former space was a one-story location in a quieter neighbourhood, but now its home is a two-storey building with an interior spanning 4,500 square feet, and neighbours that include several notable watchmakers and retailers, including Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet. The new boutique is also the opening act for Alexander Schmiedt, who was recently tapped to lead Vacheron Constantin in the Americas. A watch-industry lifer whose family has roots in the business, Mr Schmiedt was formerly head of Vacheron Constantin in the Middle East, and prior to that the chief of Montblanc’s watch division. Open plan and welcoming The relocated store is kitted out with a new-look interior that slightly more contemporary than the outgoing decor that was heavy on dark wood. Characterised by golden hues and geometric shapes, the store has airy, floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal the rich colours inside, along with a selection of watches that are dangerously inviting. In a nod to the brand’s long presence in the United States, the bouti...

EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors Time+Tide
Jun 14, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors

Editor’s note:  Recently I spoke to a former salesman at a high-end Australian watch retailer. He told me that his store didn’t have a “passive waiting list” where you’re rewarded for patiently queuing up. In fact, to disoblige customers of that notion, the shop preferred a more pointedly ambiguous term: “the expression of interest list”. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Bold field watches for under $500 in the MAS Watches Arcticus range Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Bold field watches for under $500 in the MAS Watches Arcticus range

What’s in a name? Quite a lot in this case. MAS Watches was started in 2019 by Australian Matthew Francis, a watch enthusiast who shares his love of watches with his young son, Tate. His brand’s name is a direct nod to this family background – MAS stands for Matthew and Son.  Fortunately, this cute … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Bold field watches for under $500 in the MAS Watches Arcticus range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection… Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2021

Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection…

All too often we discuss watches as assets. Usually when we hear about people selling pieces from their collection it is part of an effort to fund the next watch – something I am well documented in doing. But when you reach a certain collection tier, or have the right references, moving such watches can … ContinuedThe post Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Corum Golden Bridge Automatic For 2021: Linear Winding Never Looked So Good Quill & Pad
Corum Golden Bridge Automatic Jun 12, 2021

New Corum Golden Bridge Automatic For 2021: Linear Winding Never Looked So Good

Of all the watches extoling the virtues of the mechanical movement, no other piece does it as simply, cleanly, or in as straightforward a manner as the Corum Golden Bridge. The 10-year-anniversary version of the Golden Bridge Automatic sees some aesthetic changes made to its avant-garde case, and in particular the iconic sapphire crystal.

#Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko but Jun 12, 2021

#Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs

Seiko diving watches are invariably fantastic. But we all eagerly anticipate the deep blue hues and structured dials of the Save The Ocean releases which, for me, are yearly high points within the Prospex range for dial art, coming close to the brilliance of big brother Grand Seiko, but at great prices. Here, we’re pairing … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Jun 12, 2021

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise

Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer and finally Girard-Perregaux. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.

Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible Time+Tide
Bovet Jun 12, 2021

Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible

A couple of weeks ago, Rolls Royce announced a $37m four-seat convertible that would be almost entirely bespoke. Known as the Boat Tail, the car was said to have been dreamed up by one of Rolls Royce’s most important clients who was excited by the possibility of commissioning something truly magnificent with the manufacturer. The … ContinuedThe post Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Parmigiani Tondagraph GT Chronograph Annual Calendar SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jun 11, 2021

Up Close: Parmigiani Tondagraph GT Chronograph Annual Calendar

Parmigiani launched its first sports watch, the Tonda GT, last year. It has an integrated bracelet naturally – inevitable given current trends. Parmigiani is, however, pretty late to the game, since the high-end sports watch with an integrated-bracelet is well used idea. The big names have been doing it since the 1970s, courtesy of Gerald Genta, but the recent popularity of the style means many brands have had a go. Notable new entrants include Chopard, H. Moser & Cie., and even Citizen. Now their ranks are joined by Parmigiani, which, against the odds, has pulled it off with an original, high-quality luxury-sports watch. The Tondagraph GT in its original iteration that was a limited edition of 200 The origins of the Tonda GT might not seem promising. Lacking a historical sports watch design, Parmigiani elected to instead transform one of its dress-watch cases into a sports watch. Surprisingly, the Tonda GT is arguably better looking than the Tonda dress watch. The most compelling offering in the sports watch line is the Tondagraph GT, which combines a chronograph, annual calendar, and sensible pricing. Initial thoughts On paper the Tondagraph GT might not seem interesting. It’s yet another integrated-bracelet luxury-sports watch – and it’s powered by a modular movement. But in hand, the watch is surprisingly appealing. The case is big but thin, with a bracelet that’s equally slim, creating a watch with a comfortable, streamlined profile on the wrist. Even th...

VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a rugged diver that punches well above its pay grade Time+Tide
Mido Jun 11, 2021

VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a rugged diver that punches well above its pay grade

Mido are an oddity in the watch world. They’re not a mega-brand, being a subsidiary of Swatch Group towards the affordable end of the ladder, yet they still manage to be one of the few brands whose limited-edition releases can sell for well over their original retail price, as seen with the Ocean Star Decompression … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a rugged diver that punches well above its pay grade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Should you get buried wearing a favourite watch or is it the ultimate waste of time? Time+Tide
Jun 11, 2021

Should you get buried wearing a favourite watch or is it the ultimate waste of time?

Jazz legend Miles Davis was buried with one of his beloved trumpets nestling by his side. The Beat Generation novelist William Burroughs was laid to rest with a loaded revolver, a sword cane, a ballpoint pen, a fedora and a joint. Frank Sinatra’s coffin meanwhile included a bottle of Jack Daniel’s, a pack of Camel … ContinuedThe post Should you get buried wearing a favourite watch or is it the ultimate waste of time? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are Women A Game Changer In Watches? A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseur Conversations (Video) Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 9, 2021

Are Women A Game Changer In Watches? A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseur Conversations (Video)

Many women choose to wear men's watches. But why? And what are women looking for in a watch? More and more female collectors are changing the game. Join the conversation about a highly relevant topic with Beth Hannaway, head of Harrods's Fine Watches, businesswoman and collector Lung Lung Thun, and Barbara Hans, head of marketing at A. Lange & Söhne.

EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID Time+Tide
Rado hosts Jun 9, 2021

EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID

The best way to describe 2020 is that it was a black hole. Obviously there were far more serious casualties and situations, but the watch community sorely missed being able to get together and share our love for watches. Fortunately, the rising social media platform Clubhouse filled the void, but as we like to say … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Unveils Jun 9, 2021

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic

First introduced exactly a decade ago, the BR 01-92 Red Radar was one of the brand’s first wristwatches to reproduce a fighter jet’s instrument display, using a red-tinted sapphire crystal and rotating discs to create a dial resembling a flight radar display. A striking and clever idea, the flight-radar time display was unique even amongst the numerous aviation-instrument watches of Bell & Ross (B&R;). Now B&R; is revisiting the concept with the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic, which once again features a radar display but now in the more wearable BR 03 case. Initial thoughts On the surface, the new BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic isn’t especially novel. The ceramic case is essentially the same used for last year’s BR 03-92 HUD, while the radar display is modelled on the 2011 original. However, the new Red Radar is a clever rendition of the idea, and a substantial improvement over the earlier version. For one, the case is now 42 mm, making it significantly more wearable than the 46 mm original. And the original also had a black-coated steel case – which typically shows wear and tear as the coating separates from the metal below – while the new model has a ceramic case also that’s scratch-resistant and generally more durable, meaning it will seem pristine even after years of use (though hard knocks or drops can chip or crack ceramic). And the new Red Radar has a more practical dial design than its predecessor, which had hands printed to mimic the sweep of a radar scan, ...

Scientists Install Weather Station Atop Dormant Volcano (While Wearing a Rolex) SJX Watches
Rolex Jun 9, 2021

Scientists Install Weather Station Atop Dormant Volcano (While Wearing a Rolex)

Amongst the projects to tackle climate change that’s being supported by Rolex was the successful scientific expedition to Tupungato, a dormant volcano that’s one of the highest mountains in Americas that sits on the border of Chile and Argentina. Led by National Geographic and backed by the Chilean government, the expedition team embarked on a 15-day trek up Tupungato in early April to install a weather station just below the summit – 6,505 m above sea level – that’s the highest weather installation in the Southern and Western Hemispheres. The purpose of the expedition was, of course, not to explore the uncharted; such endeavours had their heyday in the postwar era, with Rolex keeping time for many of them. Instead the watchmaker supports scientists and conservationists on expeditions that aid understanding of climate change and its effects – all of which are part of the Perpetual Planet initative. Tupungato National Geographic A pillar of Perpetual Planet is Rolex’s partnership with National Geographic, the iconic, yellow-bordered magazine of the National Geographic Society. The partnership seeks to understand and address the impact of climate change, through expeditions and field research that harness data taken at crucial locations that are often harsh and inaccessible. The partnership’s first expedition took place in 2019, when a team travelled up Mount Everest to set up the highest-altitude weather station in the world – 8,430 m above sea level ...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Safari SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 9, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Safari

In a year where green dials have become a major fad, Zenith is keeping up with the Chronomaster Revival Safari, a chronograph “inspired by the great outdoors” according to the brand. Pairing a matte khaki-green dial with faux-aged “lume” and an El Primero A384 in blasted titanium, the Chronomaster Revival Safari is one of the more unusual El Primero remakes to date, despite its fashionable colour. Initial thoughts If the Chronomaster Revival Safari looks familiar, that’s because it’s essentially the Chronomaster Revival Shadow in green. The Shadow was one of my favourite recent watches from Zenith, so that’s a good thing. In fact, the microblasted titanium case suits the safari theme better than the monochromatic Shadow. Lightweight and non-reflective, titanium makes sense for a watch that’s meant to be for the great outdoors. However, “faux-patina” on the hands and indices is a tad affected, especially considering the Safari is not a vintage remake, but rather a modern design conceived to capitalise on green dials being in vogue. With a price tag of US$9,000, the new Chronomaster Revival Safari costs about 10% more than the Shadow and the A385 on a bracelet, making it less of a value proposition compared to the rest of the Revival lineup. Nevertheless, it’s still a fair buy relative to the rest of the market. And given the current popularity of green-dial watches, the Safari will prove to be a commercial success. Jungle ready The green dial has a mat...

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum SJX Watches
Jun 9, 2021

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum

Andersen Genève turned 40 in 2020 – making the brand one of the longest-established independent watchmakers in Switzerland. The brand is, in fact, a pioneer in the field. Founder Svend Andersen, an octogenarian who was born in Denmark but moved to Switzerland in 1963, set up the AHCI in 1985 alongside Vincent Calabrese. Andersen Genève is best known for inventive and novel complications, often built as a module to be added onto a base movement, such as the secular perpetual calendar that needs no adjustment even after centuries – but on an ETA base calibre. Many of the brand’s creations are hand-made, bespoke timepieces built to the client’s specifications. The brand commemorated its 40th anniversary with four models that encapsulate its historical specialties, a diamond-set, Louis Cattier-style world time, a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin that combines the Russian watchmaker’s Joker display with an automaton on the back, and a jumping hours. The final watch in the anniversary quartet is the first in platinum, the Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary with a 21k-gold dial engine turned by hand. Initial thoughts The Jumping Hours is charming in both design and construction, but for the fact that it is the brainchild of a pioneer independent watchmaker. Save for the case material, the new Jumping Hours is identical to its rose gold predecessor, so it’s not particularly novel. But the guilloche blue dial works exceptionally well with the white-metal case, mak...

Watch vs Wild – Epic photo essay of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic on the wrist in rugged Tasmania Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jun 8, 2021

Watch vs Wild – Epic photo essay of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic on the wrist in rugged Tasmania

There was a moment during the all-action Tasmanian launch of the Rado Captain Cook in high-tech ceramic that neatly summed up how this launch was different to others. It was an awkward one if I’m completely honest. Because after diving into the six-degree temperature water of a lake at Derby, in the north east of … ContinuedThe post Watch vs Wild – Epic photo essay of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic on the wrist in rugged Tasmania appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.