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Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why Time+Tide
Tudor vs Rolex Jun 2, 2023

Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why

At Watches & Wonders this year, one night I accidentally got on the wrong bus from the Palexpo convention centre and found myself whizzing through the streets of Geneva in an unfamiliar neighbourhood. Aware of my plight, a kindly local on the next seat advised me where I should get off and we then struck … ContinuedThe post Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show Time+Tide
Frederique Constant ContinuedThe post FRIDAY Jun 2, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show

Just ahead of the weekend, two brands have announced some exciting news! Citizen to open multi-brand flagship in New York City Some people hear the Citizen name, and think solely of the brand. But Citizen, or the Citizen Watch Group, is actually a multi-brand conglomerate that not only includes Citizen, but also Alpina, Frederique Constant, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jun 2, 2023

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091

Since its relaunch last year, King Seiko has emerged as something of a budget-friendly alternative to Grand Seiko with its straightforward, vintage-inspired designs. Continuing in the same direction are the latest additions to the line, the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091. Most notably, the new models boast a slimmer case compared to their predecessors, thanks to the higher-end cal. 6L35 inside. Despite the tweaks, both retain retro styling that pays homage to the King Seiko “KSK” from 1965. Initial thoughts While last year’s King Seiko models were executed well, I felt they were missing something, particularly in terms of case proportions. They were a little too thick for a vintage-style watch. Therefore, a slimmer version with the more precise cal. 6L35 movement is welcome. The new King Seiko remains conservative in style and almost a vintage remake. However, the case is significantly slimmer at 10.7 mm, compared to over 12 mm for last year’s model. This was achieved with a flattened “box” sapphire crystal and a redesigned case middle with thinner lugs, giving it dimensions better suited to the design.  The SJE091 The only drawback is the price of US$3,300, which is almost double last year’s King Seiko models. While the difference is justified by the improved movement and better case proportions, it might be tough to stomach given the stylistic similarity between the two. A slimmer case The new additions are modelled on the “KSK” model of 1965. They have ...

Is this brand new Casio the one to unseat the best-selling watch in the world? Time+Tide
Casio Jun 2, 2023

Is this brand new Casio the one to unseat the best-selling watch in the world?

Everyone’s got one, it seems. The ubiquitous little Casio F-91W, that is. First introduced in 1989, this most basic of black plastic digital watches can be had for as little as US$12, and it covers the basics so well, that it sells millions of units per year, eclipsing every non-smartwatch in the world by a … ContinuedThe post Is this brand new Casio the one to unseat the best-selling watch in the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: The Datron, Decimal, Dynamic & More Worn & Wound
Omega Geneve Dynamic Starting Jun 1, 2023

eBay Finds: The Datron, Decimal, Dynamic & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Omega Geneve Dynamic Starting this week off with a really neat 1960’s vintage Omega Geneve Dynamic. I mean, does it get any retro-cooler than this oval stunner with the blue bullseye dial?? The unique oval steel case is in excellent condition with the original radial brushed finish still intact. The dial is what makes this one stand out though, with the silver base and bold blue ring and black/white thin hash lines. Really a wild look. This example looks all-original, including the original leather rally strap with Omega signed buckle! Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. View auction here. Mido Multifort Next up we have this beautiful little Mido Multifort Super Automatic military style piece. The steel case looks good, and it has a nice wide bezel. The seller doesn’t give the width of the case, but it’s definitely going to be on the smaller side. The black dial with luminous Arabic numeral hour markers is gorgeous, with a great patina’d look, and a classic sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The crown is the correct, original one, oversized and domed, unique to Mido. Seller states the watch runs, but again no movement picture. Really fun military style wa...

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ Worn & Wound
Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary Jun 1, 2023

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/

Isotope has unveiled a new limited edition, made in collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ to celebrate the former’s seventh anniversary. I’ve become a pretty big fan of the Isotope design language over the years – brand founder José Miranda has a good eye for color, and is one of only a handful in the industry who dares to inject a bit of humor into his watch designs. Seconde/Seconde/, of course, is all about the jokes, so when I heard there was a collaboration in the works, I was pretty excited to see what would come of it. The end result, the Hydrium Seconde/Seconde/, is surprisingly subtle, but better for it.  The high level brief here is “a Memento Mori watch, without a skull.” That, in and of itself, is kind of funny, at least if you’ve been tracking recent watches that take the Memento Mori as design inspiration. Why a death obsessed watch for a seven year anniversary? Isotope has retired their old logo, and just like life itself, the end of a logo is inevitable. The new logo takes the focus from Isotope’s “i” hand and shifts it toward the lacrima, the tear shape that has become a defining characteristic of the design of every watch they’ve made. The new logo is bolder and more sophisticated to my eye, so yeah, good riddance to the old. A fresh start never hurt anyone.  The design itself makes a few small changes to the familiar Hydrium dive watch platform. The (new) logo now reads “OTOPSIE” (autopsy) rather than “ISOTOPE,” with arrows sh...

De Bethune DB28: How I Launched It, Why I Bought It, And Why It’s The Perfect ‘One Watch’ – Reprise Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB28 How I Launched Jun 1, 2023

De Bethune DB28: How I Launched It, Why I Bought It, And Why It’s The Perfect ‘One Watch’ – Reprise

De Bethune celebrated the tenth anniversary of its groundbreaking DB28 in 2020 and, as Ian Skellern's relationship with the model goes back the full decade, it seemed an appropriate time for him to share the story of how he came to launch the DB28, own a DB28, and what he thinks of the DB28 after wearing one regularly for 10 years.

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) Time+Tide
Tissot revives Jun 1, 2023

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics)

The 1970s were a spawning ground for all things weird and wonderful in design, leaving behind the classical, restrained designs of the mid-century aesthetic. Bullhead chronographs, TV cases and the idea of steel as a luxury material emerged in the watch world, along with some truly unique trailblazers getting lost amid the flurry of change. … ContinuedThe post Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Holthinrichs Announces the Deconstructed, their Most Ambitious Watch Yet Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Announces May 31, 2023

Holthinrichs Announces the Deconstructed, their Most Ambitious Watch Yet

In the world of the micro indie that is quickly becoming one our favorite emerging spaces in the watch industry, Holthinrichs Watches has been a longtime favorite. With their latest creation, the aptly named Deconstructed, they move to another level (or at least another price bracket) but retain much of the aesthetic and craft that originally captivated much of the Worn & Wound editorial team when we discovered their 3-D printed watches several years ago. The new watch is their most ambitious yet by a large margin, incorporating a new in-house movement and pushing the limits of their manufacturing process seemingly as far as they’ll go. If you look back on the watches they were making just a few years ago, the Deconstructed represents a fairly enormous leap in confidence and conviction in what the brand is doing. It’s genuinely exciting.  As the name of the watch implies, the Deconstructed is all about the piecing together of individual component parts. The 3-D printing process that Holthinrichs uses allows for an incredible amount of flexibility in designing each part of the case, allowing them to achieve an aesthetic result that would not be possible with more traditional manufacturing methods. For the Deconstructed, a focus has been placed on skeletonization, with each 3-D printed part reduced to the bare minimum of material (titanium, in this case), for a watch that is airy, lightweight, and a logical extension of the Holthinrichs watches that came before it.  Th...

[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Worn & Wound
May 31, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver

Aera Instruments is a brand based in the UK that just unveiled their second collection, consisting of incremental updates to their D-1 and P-1 diver and pilot watches. The D-1 Ocean Diver is a blue version of the black watch that debuted last year, and it has a couple of small less visible refinements that improve the overall experience Aera is providing. The choices they made – what to update, and what not to update – reveal something about where the brand might be heading, and what they deem important. I had a chance to briefly handle the initial D-1 and P-1 releases last year, and while I thought they were completely fine, they didn’t linger in the mind the way some watches do. I’ve been wearing the D-1 for about a week now, though, and find myself really enjoying the subtly complex design choices and distinctly contemporary vibe of this dive watch.  $1600 [Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Case 904L Steel Movement Sellita SW200-1 Elabore Grade Dial Blue Lume Globolight markers Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 49.8mm Thickness 16mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1600 Notable Specs and Features  Looking through the spec sheet, the number that will likely jump out at most people right away is the D-1’s diameter: a healthy 44mm. And that’s not the only large number you’ll find when you take your calipers to the case. The lug to lug is 49.8mm, the lug width is 22mm, and the case height (to th...

The Certina DS Action Diver takes a trip to the darkside Time+Tide
Certina DS Action Diver takes May 31, 2023

The Certina DS Action Diver takes a trip to the darkside

The Certina DS Action Diver is now available in a stealthy black finish. The 43mm case is tamed by the black PVD and a 13.1mm thickness. It’s powered by the Powermatic 80, with an 80-hour power reserve. The growth of Certina’s catalogue in the last couple of years has been especially fun to watch as … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS Action Diver takes a trip to the darkside appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 54 Just May 30, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54

Just launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the Black Bay 54 is the latest step in the evolution of Tudor’s mainstay line of dive watches. Inspired by the brand’s first dive watch of 1954, the Black Bay 54 is clearly vintage-inspired. But more notably, it is the most compact dive watch in the Tudor catalogue at just 37 mm in diameter, making it one of the brand’s most wearable offerings. Though scaled down in terms of size, the Black Bay 54 still possesses all of the characteristics that define Tudor watches, namely a high-spec in-house movement (with a 70-hour power reserve no less) and affordable price tag. Initial thoughts As I mentioned in the article introducing the watch, the BB54 is perfect for anyone wanting a wearable dive watch that pairs vintage style with corresponding vintage proportions. The minimalist approach is evident not just in the size, but also details like the bezel insert, which has been simplified to feature just five-minute markers.  Despite the familiar vintage aesthetics and clean line that define the Black Bay, the Black Bay 54 (BB54) is compelling. For one, it catches the eye for being noticeably smaller on the wrist than its Black Bay siblings. While it is certainly compact, maybe even small by contemporary standards, the BB54 doesn’t look diminutive on the wrist. Perhaps because of the stark, functional design and “gilt” dial, the BB54 has more presence than its 37 mm would imply. I like the watch very much as it is, but if there w...

Micro-Brand Digest: Windup Watch Fair Edition Worn & Wound
May 30, 2023

Micro-Brand Digest: Windup Watch Fair Edition

This edition of Micro-Brand Digest will be focusing on some of the brands that exhibit at our Windup Watch Fair. Every year upon walking into the fair during setup, the editorial team often gets their first look at many of the exhibiting brands, as we are a separate entity to the event and commerce components of Worn & Wound, so each fair we discover some of the brands right alongside you.  In addition to discovering these new brands, we get the added benefit of meeting the people behind them, which adds a depth to the brand that otherwise may not be immediately apparent. This is the beauty of a show like Windup, connecting with the passionate people making these watches, and hearing their stories first hand. So in this edition of Micro-Brand Digest, we’re putting a spotlight on some of these people and the watches they’re creating. Vieren Vieren is a fashion watch brand, but maybe not in the way you’d expect. The watches are indeed chic, and present a fashion forward design language that embraces clean lines, stark whites and blacks, and textures you’d often see on the runway. That’s because the creative head of the brand, Sunny Fong, is a fashion designer for the womenswear label, VAWK, and even won Project Runway Canada. Sonny brings this sensibility to Vieren watches, eschewing typical watch industry trends in the process. Vieren’s founder, Jess Chow, brings a passionate energy to the brand, and is one of our favorite people to see at Windup. Jess has brou...

Aquastar Returns to Their Origins with New Model 60 Worn & Wound
Rolex who’s experimental Deep Sea May 30, 2023

Aquastar Returns to Their Origins with New Model 60

In 1960, Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh made their record dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench within the Trieste bathyscaphe, a feat not equaled until 2012 by James Cameron in the Deepsea Challenger. The story of the Trieste is the stuff of legends, the watch brand we generally associate with the trek is of course, Rolex, who’s experimental Deep Sea Special survived the crushing 10,916 meters of depth strapped to the exterior of the vessel (something they did again with the Deepsea Challenger). Enthusiasts are likely also aware of the Lognines stopwatches aboard the Trieste (as well as Piccard’s own 13ZN Chronograph), but there is another watch tied to this story, and this is the JeanRichard Aquastar 60 worn by Don Walsh. A watch that’s being honored in the release of a new Model 60 by Aquastar this week.  The Aquastar 60 was designed by the brand’s founder, Frédéric Robert in 1958, and represents the earliest design DNA of the storied brand. The new Model 60 captures the spirit of the original in many of the right ways, while carving a new path all its own in the process. The watch falls very much into throwback territory which, these days, has a very blurry boundary between modernity, it seems. Whatever the case, the Model 60 is a simple, sharp diver that embodies many of the base design codes of the genre in the best ways possible. The newest Model 60 gets a lovely skin-diver-esque 37mm steel case with square lug design that places all emphasis on the bus...

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 30, 2023

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise

Many of us have seen and heard the auctioneer’s hammer crash down on the final bid of a famous well-fought-over item. What interests Chris Malburg – apart from the artifact itself – is the seller. Why the sale? Is this is a one-off event or does he or she have more to offer? What brought them to this hammer time? This article explores motives for and provides expert advice on selling a watch at auction.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium SJX Watches
Sarpaneva May 30, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements.  Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...

Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar Time+Tide
Rolex May 30, 2023

Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar

Their name may not be as recognised as Rolex by the hoi polloi, but Singaporean microbrand Boldr Supply Co. has long been something of an insider’s secret among watch collectors. A winning combination of adventurous designs, fantastic build quality, and sought-after specs, all at “how do they do it?” prices, have made Boldr a favourite … ContinuedThe post Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Maurice Lacroix Resurrects the Fan Favorite Pontos S Diver Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Resurrects May 29, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Resurrects the Fan Favorite Pontos S Diver

Maurice Lacroix dropped some surprising news this week by announcing that the Pontos S Diver will be making a return. First released 10 years ago, the Pontos S Diver was short-lived once the brand decided to move their focus to the Aikon watch, which has taken a number of forms in the intervening years. The Pontos S Diver always hit a bit differently, though, and we’re thrilled to see it making a comeback in a very similar fashion to what it once was (for better or worse), as there’s never enough good looking internal bezel divers out there.  The new Pontos S Diver gets a familiar design right out of the box, which is a good thing in many ways, though perhaps a hindrance in others. The simple dial gets long hour and minute markers reaching into the dial against a set of straight hands with a slight taper, framed by the internal rotating bezel which gets the only numerals in sight outside of the date aperture at 6 o’clock. There’s not much to it, but Maurice Lacroix gets the proportions of everything just right, capturing the timeless appeal of this look. The internal bezel can be adjusted by the crown at 2 o’clock on the case, which appears to stick out a touch further than the original design, but the contrasting ring at the base of the crown remains. Unlike the original examples, the date disc has been color matched to the dial. The steel case measures 42mm in diameter, shedding a single millimeter from the original’s size, and comes in a hair thinner as the...

The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style Time+Tide
May 29, 2023

The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style

Depancel and Jürgen Clauss have reunited for a second limited edition. The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph captures the racing spirit and blazing blues of the Alpine A110. They’ve used new-old-stock Valjoux 7753 movements, refurbished for vintage vibes and modern reliability. Many people wouldn’t have heard of Alpine were it not for the Renault Formula 1 … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde May 29, 2023

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

‘Tis the year for the retrograde display here at Vacheron Constantin. The grand dame of watchmaking has released no fewer than three models with the mechanism at Watches & Wonders 2023. The first model is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, the most complicated of the lot. The next one is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-DateRead More

De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory with the Stunning DB28xs Starry Seas Quill & Pad
De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory May 29, 2023

De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory with the Stunning DB28xs Starry Seas

De Bethune has a thing for stars, but the way that they present them in the DB28xs Starry Seas is something that we haven't seen before. As the name already hints, are the stars reflected in an ocean full of waves. To create this effect, De Bethune invented a random guilloché pattern, a world's first, representing the waves.

The Last Emperor’s Patek Philippe: History in the Making Revolution
Patek Philippe History May 29, 2023

The Last Emperor’s Patek Philippe: History in the Making

Step into history and witness the remarkable journey of Puyi’s wristwatch, an artifact that carries the weight of a bygone era. This iconic timepiece, belonging to the legendary emperor, will soon go under the hammer at Phillips auctioneers, and its story is truly captivating. Georgy Permyakov, Puyi’s Russian translator, was entrusted with preserving the memories […]

Second Hour’s Mandala Burst offers a fresh take on the everyday watch Time+Tide
Omega Aqua Terra robust everyday May 29, 2023

Second Hour’s Mandala Burst offers a fresh take on the everyday watch

Owing to the likes of the Rolex Explorer and Omega Aqua Terra, robust everyday watches have become their own thing. Because what we need is a watch we can wear everyday, not necessarily one that has a unique use case and the specifications to match. Everyday watches are the most common in brand catalogues and … ContinuedThe post Second Hour’s Mandala Burst offers a fresh take on the everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.