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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

Rolex Introduces the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium Ref. 226627 SJX Watches
Tudor the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very Apr 1, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium Ref. 226627

Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue.  Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...

VIDEO: Alpina presents the Extreme Regulator Automatic on an integrated bracelet Revolution
Alpina presents Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: Alpina presents the Extreme Regulator Automatic on an integrated bracelet

At Watches and Wonders 2023, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution, got his hands on an Alpina Extreme Regulator Automatic, which now comes with an integrated bracelet and blue dial. He discussed this cool novelty with the Brand Director of Alpina, Oliver van Lanschot. Alpina has also released an 888-piece limited edition black dial […]

VIDEO: Christian Selmoni introduces Vacheron Constantin complications at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Vacheron Constantin complications Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Christian Selmoni introduces Vacheron Constantin complications at Watches and Wonders 2023

Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage and Style Director Christian Selmoni presents the Vacheron Constantin Double Retrograde mechanism, which is now available in both the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Vacheron Constantin styles of watch. In this video, Mr Selmoni also shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Open Face, a 41mm pink gold watch […]

VIDEO: Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele presents new Alpine Eagle and L.U.C. 1860 timepieces Revolution
Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele presents Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele presents new Alpine Eagle and L.U.C. 1860 timepieces

See the new Chopard novelties up close with Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Revolution Founder Wei Koh. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Mr Scheufele and his vaunted brand unveiled the Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, which is driven by the chronometer-certified L.U.C 96.40-L movement with 65 hours of power reserve; and the high-frequency […]

VIDEO: Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties pay tribute to the rich heritage of the Radiomir Revolution
Panerai s Watches Mar 29, 2023

VIDEO: Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties pay tribute to the rich heritage of the Radiomir

This year, Panerai shines the spotlight on the historic Radiomir, which is one of four major Panerai collections alongside the Luminor, Luminor Due and Submersible. In this video, Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué presents new novelties like the Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar, Radiomir California, Radiomir Otto Giorni and Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech to Revolution’s Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto […]

The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces Mar 29, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication

The Ulysee Nardin Freak ONE has surpassed its shock-factor roots and embraced beauty, The time is adjusted via the 5N gold bezel, negating the need for a traditional crown. Its train of wheels and flying tourbillon are all integrated into the minutes hand. Mechanical watchmaking has evolved drastically over the last few decades, which is … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek Opens the Dial of Antarctique in New Révélation Worn & Wound
Czapek Opens Mar 28, 2023

Czapek Opens the Dial of Antarctique in New Révélation

Czapek is following up their new Dark Titanium Antarctique (which we introduced to you right here) with something a bit different in the form of the Révélation. This variant offers an openworked dial to enjoy the new purpose-built SXH7 movement within. Doing open dials is something of an artform, and Czapek has proven quite adept at maximizing the space given. To do so here, they had to alter the core of their SXH5 movement to such a degree that it became something else entirely in the process. The payoff was clearly worth it, offering a beautiful view into the unique design language of Czapek’s movement ethos.  The Antarctique Révélation expands on the rapidly maturing collection, and sets a new tone in the process. This case and bracelet have proven they can easily adapt to a variety of dial configurations, from the very simple, managing the focal point; to the relatively wild, thus relinquishing it. This watch is clearly an example of the latter, with one of those dials that just keeps on giving, with small details and hidden away areas to discover. Perhaps the most interesting part of this watch is the commitment to the movement in an effort to get the openworked details right. It began, according to Czapek, with a request from a fan of the brand. CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel explains: “People were in love with the remarkable design of our SXH5 movement, and we therefore asked ourselves how we could somehow make it visible on the dial” and …”soon a far more...

Zenith’s Defy Revival Shadow is a New Look for a Classic Worn & Wound
Zenith s Defy Revival Shadow Mar 28, 2023

Zenith’s Defy Revival Shadow is a New Look for a Classic

One of the things we love about Zenith is the way they walk the line between unapologetically contemporary (think: the Defy Extreme range) and watches that pay sincere tribute to their past. The latter would encompass much of the Chronomaster collection, for example, which is rife with watches that amount to tasteful updates of much loved vintage pieces. There are times, though, when tributes to heritage and a modern aesthetic collide, and that’s what we have with the new Defy Revival Shadow, a watch that combines the iconic profile of the very first Defy with a blasted titanium treatment that gives it a completely new and modern appearance.  If you’ve been keeping up with Zenith, you’re certainly aware that the Defy Revival has played a major role in their release strategy over the past year, starting with a faithful reissue of the original version last year and then moving on to red and teal. No matter the dial color, though, the dominant design trait of these watches is always the unusual case. There’s really nothing else quite like it. It’s completely compact at just 37mm and has an elaborate 14 sided bezel and 8 sided case that gives the entire package a complex geometry that must have felt quite avant garde when the design was introduced in the 1970s. For this release, Zenith has stripped the case of its signature finishing and given it the same bead blasted titanium treatment as the Chronomaster Revival Shadow. As a sibling to the earlier shadow, this wat...

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908 Worn & Wound
Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal Time+Tide
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Mar 28, 2023

The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal

The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition features a date window in which Miss Piggy’s ex makes a monthly appearance The watch itself is based on the 39mm titanium ProPilot X Calibre 400 Oris wanted to ensure the collaboration didn’t overpower the overall watch design Growing up, I learned a British superstition that you’re meant to … ContinuedThe post The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: New TAG Heuer Plasma timepieces presented at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
TAG Heuer Plasma timepieces presented Mar 28, 2023

VIDEO: New TAG Heuer Plasma timepieces presented at Watches and Wonders 2023

Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, discuss TAG Heuer’s new Plasma timepieces. The star timepiece is the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon, which is 44mm in case size and has 124 lab-grown diamonds. Alongside a few other Carrera timepieces launched at Watches and Wonders 2023 such […]

VIDEO: Patek Philippe’s 6007G in white gold debuts at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Patek Philippe s 6007G Mar 27, 2023

VIDEO: Patek Philippe’s 6007G in white gold debuts at Watches and Wonders 2023

Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution, discusses the evolution of the Calatrava leading up to this year’s 6007G Calatrava, which has returned not in steel, but this time in white gold. The 2023 6007G is available in yellow (ref. 6007G-001), red (6007G-010) and blue (6007G-011). Its 40mm white gold case houses the Patek Philippe […]

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3 SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2023

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3

German independent Kudoke has carved out its own niche with a distinctive blend of English-inspired movements and Germanic attention-to-detail in its Handwerk line of watches. The latest addition to the line is the Kudoke 3, which largely sticks to the successful formula of prior models, but offers a twist in the form of a split-level dial and triple-scale hour display. Once known primarily for ostentatiously skeletonised Unitas calibers, such as the watch worn by Dominic Monaghan’s character in Last Looks, Kudoke hit the reset button in 2019 with Handwerk line comprised of the Kudoke 1 and 2. The collection introduced a more restrained design aesthetic and importantly, brand’s first proprietary movement. The Kudoke 3 continues down this path, but goes further in terms of creative design. The Handwerk collection (from left): Kudoke 1, Kudoke 2, and Kudoke 3 Initial thoughts As a fan of modern German (and historical English) watchmaking, I’ve been impressed with the brand’s work since the launch of the Kudoke 1. Like Habring² and Laine, Kudoke offers a compelling alternative to mass-produced luxury watches. The Kudoke 3 is a thoughtful and unconventional addition to the Dresden-based brand’s growing collection, offering a novel time display with three scales for the hours along with a three-armed hour hand. This triple-scale calls to mind the distinctive seconds register of the 1990s Daniel Roth tourbillon (recently reborn as the Tourbillon Souscription), but ...

The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture Mar 27, 2023

The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand

The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture celebrates the brand’s 35th birthday. The calibre FC-980 returns as the brand’s flagship in-house movement. It’s a limited edition of 150 pieces. Frederique Constant is often referred to as an affordable luxury brand, which I believe does them somewhat of a disservice. While they do have a large range … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds

TAG Heuer’s super avant-garde Plasma is back with even more diamonds The entire dial is a one-piece diamond plate with two smaller polycrystalline diamonds used for the sub-dials Powered by a tourbillon calibre with a carbon nanotube balance spring, its anti-magnetic properties are excellent Upon its initial release in 2022, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded Mar 26, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded

This episode of A Week In Watches is the answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe, and everything: 42. It is also the lead in to Watches & Wonders, which begins tomorrow. Our editorial team will be there in full force, and you can follow along with all the action right here on Worn & Wound, and on our YouTube channel, which you can subscribe to right here. In the lead up to the show, we’re seeing plenty of exciting releases hoping to get the jump on things, so this week we’re taking a look at something new (but also old) from Urwerk in the form of a new 102 Reloaded. We’ve also got looks at new watches from Czapek, Longines, Vulcain, and Furlan Marri for a healthy selection of new watches across the spectrum. We’ve got plenty more to say about the new Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph right here, a watch that reclaims the brand’s history as the first to use a flyback mechanism in a wristwatch back in the 1920s. Keep an eye out for hands-on impressions of the rest of these watches coming to the pages of Worn & Wound soon. Let us know your thoughts in the comments below. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH) Time+Tide
Daniel Roth Mar 26, 2023

Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH)

How about it? After years of rumours and months of teasing, we were finally presented with the model that will spearhead Daniel Roth’s revival, aptly chosen to be a Tourbillon Souscription. We’ve seen the Daniel Roth name pop up in numerous auctions (here and here, for example), building up the hype, which I may or … ContinuedThe post Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Rado xical Part Mar 23, 2023

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...

Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique Worn & Wound
Czapek Embraces Titanium Mar 21, 2023

Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique

One of our favorite high-end independent brands of late has been Czapek, and their Antarctique collection, which has a seemingly endless range, from their remarkable openworked Rattrapante Chronograph, to the serene time-only Frozen Star. This week, the collection welcomes a new addition, in a new material, it’s the Titanium Dark Sector. This is a slightly different expression of the Antarctique design language that we’ve seen in the likes of the Passage De Drake, bringing a slate like appearance to the monotone frame with enough small details to capture your attention. It’s still a modern integrated design and houses the brand’s own showstopper movement, so if you’re a fan of the Antarctique but prefer toned down symmetry, this watch is likely to check all the boxes for you. The Titanium Dark Sector features an integrated case and bracelet design that’s rendered fully in titanium, which should make the 40.5mm diameter and 10.5mm thickness all the more svelte on the wrist. The bracelet integrates to the case via articulating central link that fits into the center of the case, allowing for an even flow around the wrist. Unlike the 38.5mm case Antarctique, this titanium bracelet will not feature chamfers on the final production model. Additionally, there will not be customization options on this watch other than a trio of strap options. The flat gray dial of the Dark Sector is sparse, with all the action happening toward the dial’s perimeter. Applied sections o...

[VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction) Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Collabs Owner’s Edition Plus Mar 15, 2023

[VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction)

This edition of On-Wrist Reaction is a little different, with Zach and Blake both bringing personal watches to the table which the other has yet to see. We’ve got two very different, and very cool collaboration watches: one from Louis Erard and atelier oi, and the other from Nivada Grenchen and this here outfit, Worn & Wound. This isn’t just any Nivada Grenchen, this collab features the legendary Valjoux 72 caliber beating away inside. Likewise, the Louis Erard takes a hard contrast to what we’re used to seeing from them, let alone in regulator style watches writ large.  Oh, and we’ve got a bonus reaction to a new watch from Vaer called the R1 Chronograph. No, it’s not the 38mm variant. But it’s still all kinds of cool and we take a closer look fresh out of the box. You can read more about this watch right here. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post [VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Up Close: Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 SJX Watches
Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Mar 14, 2023

Up Close: Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38

For over a decade now, Montblanc has been attempting to become a serious watchmaker, an endeavour that started after its acquisition of Minerva. Despite having found only modest success there, the pen maker-turned-luxury-goods-house has produced a good number of proper haute horlogerie watches – mostly chronographs and some with surprisingly accessible prices – many of which have gone under appreciated due to the brand name. A perfect example of the Minerva mechanical excellence and sharp pricing is Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 that was introduced in 2019. The Heritage Small Second is all about the movement, specifically a new-old-stock Minerva calibre from the early 2000s finished to an impressive, artisanal standard. Despite the exceptional movement, the watch never really gained much recognition (much like Montblanc’s other Minerva offerings), but it is certainly worth a revisit. Initial thoughts With its retro, two-tone dial in faddish “salmon”, the Heritage Small Second looks like one of the many vintage-inspired watches that has been (re)produced to excess by many brands in various price segments. But this stands out for the impressive degree of detail in the movement, which is finished to a degree comparable to that of artisanal independent watchmakers. The hand-wound MB M62.00 inside is the star. According to Montblanc, it’s an “untouched” calibre from the attic made during a period when Minerva’s then-owners were dedicated to eleva...

Kurono Tokyo Goes Small with Four New Limited Edition Watches Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Goes Small Mar 13, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Goes Small with Four New Limited Edition Watches

This is one for the “better late than never” file. Last week, Kurono Tokyo launched their latest collection of watches, a series of four sector dials that quickly sold out after being made available on Friday morning. These watches, sized at just 34mm, are part of the “Special Projects” series that Kurono has undertaken, which seem to be personal labors of love from watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. On the webpage where these watches were announced, he writes about his own preference for 34mm watches, and not being sure of their mass appeal. When Kurono last experimented with a 34mm case size, the watches quickly sold out at a pop-up event, and that inspired Asaoka to make another run, in a new batch of colors. The near immediate sell out of this new collection would indicate to most observers that he’s onto something.  I’m a big fan of Kurono and enjoy that they produce watches in a more traditional size. It just seems to suit Asaoka’s design sensibilities – it’s tough to imagine the Toki, for example, being nearly as appealing in a 40mm case. That said, 34mm is a little small for me, but I have a big wrist, and the 37mm cases that Kurono favors are at the low end of my sweet spot. That means that a lot of people with “average” sized wrists will probably find 34mm to be a nice fit if they’re going for a more classic and subtle look. Kurono cases are always designed in such a way as to maximize comfort and wearability, which I think can largely neutralize ...