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Louis Erard Drops Quirky Regulator in Design-Studio Collab SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Sep 23, 2021

Louis Erard Drops Quirky Regulator in Design-Studio Collab

Since recruiting Manuel Emch, best known as the former chief executive of Jaquet Droz, to advise on strategy and design, Louis Erard has rolled out interesting collaboration watches at a steady pace. To date, the brand has worked with Alain Silberstein and also Vianney Halter, both of whom added their idiosyncratic flair to the brand’s trademark regulator wristwatch. Now Louis Erard has just unveiled its fourth collaborative edition, the Le Régulateur x atelier oï. This time, however, the brand looked outside the watch industry for aesthetic direction. Founded in 1991, Atelier Oï is a design studio with a diverse repertoire ranging from furniture for Louis Vuitton to perfume bottles for Bulgari. The new regulator is the first wristwatch penned by Atelier Oï. The three founders of Atelier Oï: Aurel Aebi, Armand Louis and Patrick Reymond Initial thoughts Like the earlier collaborative editions, the Le Régulateur x atelier oï is all about design – essentially a new dial to go with the standard case and movement. Strikingly distinctive, the latest regulator is radically minimalist, with the dial doing away with all scales, indices, and branding. The dial markings consist only of straight lines arranged in a radiating spiral that create a hypnotic pattern. At the same time, the radial nature of the lines give the dial an expansive feel. Add to that the industrial, monochromatic finish and the effect is magnificent, evoking the fan-like structures found on cable-s...

CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Q 1975 Reissue is a retro bargain for $305 Time+Tide
Timex Q 1975 Reissue Sep 23, 2021

CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Q 1975 Reissue is a retro bargain for $305

When your back catalogue runs as deep and storied as Timex, dipping your horological toe into the re-issues pool should be a no brainer. Having already exhibited some serious nous by reimaging the mid-century Marlin in both hand-wound and automatic varities – plus one for the ladies – the American manufacturer has again dipped into … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Q 1975 Reissue is a retro bargain for $305 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet explores new materials Sep 22, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials

This is the fourth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT? Time+Tide
Breitling use As we saw Sep 22, 2021

Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT?

I first encountered Norqain in the metal at the COUTURE Watch & Jewellery show in Las Vegas. I had heard of the brand prior, and one of the headlining aspects of their watches are their manufacture calibers developed with Kenissi – the same movement developer that Tudor, Chanel, and Breitling use. As we saw in … ContinuedThe post Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton x Far Cry®6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium Time+Tide
Hamilton x Far Cry®6 Limited Sep 22, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton x Far Cry®6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium

When it comes to big-screen cameos, Hamilton is in a class of their own. From movies like Interstellar and Tenet to television shows like Jack Ryan, the brand holds the record for the most watches featured on screen. Today, however, Hamilton breaks into a new medium in a partnership with game developer Ubisoft. This marks the first-ever branded … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton x Far Cry®6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic SJX Watches
Citizen Series 8 Automatic I Sep 21, 2021

Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic

I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...

You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds Sep 21, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics

You Can’t Ask That, Part 1: Why are AP collections always so controversial when they launch? Introducing a conversation series on YouTube… This is the first video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. The title refers to how direct … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” Sep 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest”

Today is a neat day for the watch community, and especially for VIP Vacheron Constantin collectors. When I received this press release, I had to pinch myself to see if I was dreaming. Fortunately I wasn’t. When Vacheron Constantin first debuted their prototype Overseas, made for adventurer and photographer Cory Richards to wear on his … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands Time+Tide
Sep 20, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands

I remember a time when many within the watch community spoke of microbrands like they were some passing phase – an unfortunate result of someone with too much time on their hands and not enough sense. To these pundits, the watches that microbrands were offering would always be lesser-than anything a major, established brand could … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Minotaur: Ingenuity At The Center Of The Labyrinth Quill & Pad
Konstantin Chaykin Sep 19, 2021

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Minotaur: Ingenuity At The Center Of The Labyrinth

Konstantin Chaykin is widely known for incredibly complicated horology and the amusing Joker collection. Here he decided to honor the myth of the Minotaur with a variation on the Joker line, which instantly became Joshua Munchow's favorite iteration to date: the Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Minotaur represents a mechanical and aesthetic shift that reignites Joshua's desire for one of Chaykin's limited creations.

EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate

EDITOR’S NOTE:  The old excuse that “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery” doesn’t always cut it (just ask any convicted counterfeiter). But perhaps we shouldn’t be too hasty to judge. As James explains here, sometimes a watch may look like a knock-off but actually hold its horological own. Few things in watch world conjure … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Time+Tide
Blancpain who each began production Sep 17, 2021

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961

Let’s take a quick dip into diving watch history. The brands who really birthed the category as we know it today are Rolex/Tudor and Blancpain – who each began production of their dive watches in 1953 (it should also be noted that Zodiac introduced their Sea Wolf diver in 1953 as well). Brands such as … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilots Sep 17, 2021

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore

Fully booked before it even opened, the IWC Big Pilot Exhibition in Singapore recently closed its doors and the 31 Big Pilot’s Watches that were on show have returned home to the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen. But for those who missed the show, we round up some of the historically significant examples that were on displayed. The lineup naturally includes the very first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002, and also the ultra-rare Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003. (And the Big Pilot Roadshow will happen in various cities in the United States starting September; details at the end of this article.) 2002 – Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 The modern-day Big Pilot can be traced back to the gigantic beobachtungsuhr (or”B-uhr” for short) that IWC supplied to the German air force in 1940. The one that started it all was the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 500201 (widely known as the ref. 5002) that debuted at Baselworld in 2002. Codenamed “Big Pilot’s Watch – Mark XXI” while in development, the Big Pilot was due in part to the commercial success of the compact Mark 12 pilot’s watch. At the same time, it was also devised as a platform for the recently-launched, seven-day automatic cal. 5000, a movement large enough that the resulting pilot’s watch had to be, well, big. And big it was, though the ref. 5002 was smaller than the second world war original that was 55 mm. Still it retained many of the elements that defined the vintage B-uhr – onion crown, Arabic numerals, ...

Goldsmith & Complications celebrates boutique opening with horological sculpture collab with the Chicago Cubs Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2021

Goldsmith & Complications celebrates boutique opening with horological sculpture collab with the Chicago Cubs

As we have seen with the success of our Don’t Feed the Hype series, there is a strong hunger for more unique and different horological creations. The usual suspects have had their moment, with constant impressions to the mass marketplace. Don’t get me wrong, these big name brands continue to deliver quality products. But it … ContinuedThe post Goldsmith & Complications celebrates boutique opening with horological sculpture collab with the Chicago Cubs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch Series II SJX Watches
Sep 16, 2021

Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch Series II

The largest time-measurement museum in the world, the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) is located in the heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking region, so its fundraising project announced two years ago took an unsurprising form – a limited-edition watch. Inspired by the brutalist museum building and produced entirely by local suppliers, the watch sold out quickly. Now the museum has announced the MIH Gaïa Series II, which will once again go towards funding the restoration of one of its prized exhibits. Initial thoughts I liked the original MIH Gaïa watch (enough to buy the very first one). The new edition has all of the features of the first – they are essentially the same, so it will have the same appeal. Even after more than a year, the watch still feels novel on the wrist. I’m pleased with mine in blue, but I do like the black dial, especially in how it matches the case. Given the quality-price ratio and the fact that proceeds go towards an important watch museum, this is a compelling, worthwhile buy. Edition noire The Series II is identical to the original run, save for the dial colour. While the first edition was dark blue, this has a black dial with a subtle radial brushing. Produced by the same suppliers responsible for the first edition – nearly all of them in the museum’s hometown – the watch has a 39 mm steel case with angular lugs and a simple but unusual display where both the hours and minutes and indicated by rotating discs. A narrow ...

Grand Seiko extends warranty period from three to five years for all purchases made after 1/1/2021 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko extends warranty period from Sep 16, 2021

Grand Seiko extends warranty period from three to five years for all purchases made after 1/1/2021

Usually when we discuss Grand Seiko it’s all about their faceted designs, nature-inspired dials, and the value they pose against their Swiss competitors with the great amount of hand-finishing they present at lower price points. Now another box can get ticked off for buyers of the brand with the news that Grand Seiko recently announced … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko extends warranty period from three to five years for all purchases made after 1/1/2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.