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Quill & Pad
The Maurice Lacroix Simon Nogueira x Aikon Urban Tribe adds even more spice to the Aikon collection with its cool engravings and amazing price/performance ratio. But Martin Green thinks you'll just be wowed by its looks.
Deployant
We take a comprehensive first look at the new Louis Moiner Space Revolution. A watch which is currently a candidate at the category of “Tourbillon” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2021. Based on one to one discussions with Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, using press release photographs. FirstRead More
Hodinkee
And don’t let Danny tell you otherwise.
SJX Watches
A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...
SJX Watches
A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...
Revolution
Modern, classic watchmaking has never been more in demand than at the current time. Whether an intriguing creation by an independent watchmaker or highly in demand modern piece by one of the goliath brands, we are witnessing what could be termed hyper-demand for rare and interesting watches.
Hodinkee
A Cold War-era champion of frugal and functional fun.
Time+Tide
Collaborative limited-edition watches between brands and publishers are all the rage right now, their saturation within the marketplace creating some cynicism towards their value outside of being rather rare and collectible. I can’t speak for other publishers and the brands they work with, but what I can say with absolute certainty is that when Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Oris has been on a bronze rampage over the past year, with attractive releases such as the limited edition Carl Brashear calibre 401 and “Fratelloris” Big Crown, as well as the standard production Cotton Candy collection of Sixty-Five divers. While the material has become less of a novelty move for manufacturers, I fully welcome the … ContinuedThe post Oris introduce their first ever Big Crown ProPilot Big Date in bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Fortis gets in touch with nature on their new Marinemaster line of tool watches. Made of recycled steel and inspired by the natural outdoors. This is also brand’s second watch with the Werk 11 movement, in collaboration with Kenissi movement manufacture.
Revolution
When it was first released in 1993, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore was called The Beast. A bold and seemingly brutish take on its famous older sibling, the Offshore seemed destined to live up to its name. But it didn’t take long for people to find beauty in the beast. By the 2000s the Offshore had found its place in the world - comfortably strapped onto the wrists of superstars like Schwarzenegger and rap superstars like Jay-Z.
Quill & Pad
In this video, The Watches TV’s Marc André Deschoux goes through Bovet’s latest watches from Geneva Watch Days 2021. These include the beautiful new turquoise collection featuring the 19Thirty, Récital 23, Récital 27 triple time zone, Monsieur Bovet, and the Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined in pink gold.
SJX Watches
Launched earlier this year, the Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris” is significant amongst Patek Philippe’s recent releases, despite being a simple, time-only watch. That’s because it’s powered by the all-new cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement that is the new workhorse calibre for the brand’s entry-level, hand-wind watches. Visually, the ref. 6119 takes its cues from past Calatrava models, but the overall design is contemporary and elevated by details like the facetted hour markers and textured dial. But the crucial feature of the ref. 6119 remains the new movement inside. The cal. 30-255, with its large, twin barrels and Gyromax balance The historical context Named after the Patek Philippe emblem, the Calatrava was introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family took over the watchmaker as it struggled amidst the Great Depression. The original Calatrava was the ref. 96, a handsome but minuscule watch just 31 mm in diameter. While the Calatrava family has multiplied and grown in diversity since its launch, the ref. 96 remains the definitive Calatrava design. Its widely-spaced lugs, baton markers, and dauphine hands are instantly recognisable together, despite being relatively generic in themselves. In fact, the ref. 96 was influential in defining Patek Philippe’s house style for decades; the ref. 130, for instance, was essentially a ref. 96 with a chronograph. A ref. 570 from 1943, essentially an enlarged ref. 96 One of the longest-lived references ...
Revolution
Zenith and Time+Tide partner up to create the Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer”
Time+Tide
SHOP NOW I was walking through Frankfurt airport yesterday, and saw the strangest thing. A hoodie in a shop that featured both Boss and Russell Athletic logos on the chest. I looked at it quizzically. How odd. But somehow, the kinesis between two dramatically misaligned brands titillated me. I actually went over to the hanger … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How should a watch brand celebrate its 10 year anniversary? In an industry where peers disappear left and right, something extraordinary should mark such a momentous occasion. Maybe a party letting the world know how great you are? Or securing a fantastic bit of product placement? For DWISS, the best way to celebrate was to … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3W Wandering Hour Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
So what do we have here? A watch with an innovative escapement style, two minute repeaters, an ultra-thin timepiece, and two clocks: the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève has never seen such a wildly different bunch in one category – not even the Mechanical Exception category, which is kind of a fun free-for-all in terms of mechanical creativity. Join our panel's discussion right here.
Hodinkee
And you thought the brand only made tool watches.
Time+Tide
What is probably the most important and significant Sinn U1 dive watch has surfaced in Wellington, New Zealand. The Sinn U1 is one of the most recognisable and respected dive watches available today. With its almost Bauhaus utilitarian dial, iconic syringe hands and bead-blasted Tegiment Submarine Steel case, this watch is no pretender, flexing in … ContinuedThe post Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Forget car-jacking or bag-snatching. A street thief in Birmingham used a different technique to steal a woman’s Rolex clean off her wrist after employing what police described as “a bizarre dance”. CCTV footage shows Abdelhadi Bahou Jabour approaching the couple in Birmingham’s Colmore Row in July. He starts talking to them and exchanging high fives. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Street thief uses “bizarre dance” to steal woman’s Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched in 1983 – with the driving force behind its conception being Ernst Thomke, the then-chief of movement manufacturer ETA – Swatch set out to be the antithesis of the traditional Swiss-made watch. Cased in plastic and quartz, the Swatch watch was cheap, cheerful, and vividly colourful. But it was a hit, with its unusual, funky styling making the Swatch a fashion statement – a million watches were sold in the first year. To celebrate the occasion, Swatch constructed a 13-tonne, 162 m-long mega-watch and hung it from the front of the Commerzbank skyscraper in Frankfurt. A homage to London’s Big Ben, the giant clock was a brilliant publicity stunt that boldly announced the ambitions of Swatch. The oversized watch indicated the time and three pieces of information: “Swatch”, “Swiss”, and the retail price of “DM60”. Now Swatch is remembering 1984 with a quintet of watches, each a recreation of the year’s bestsellers, but with a twist. Instead of plastic as the originals were, the remakes have cases of Bioceramic, while the straps are made of bio-sourced plastic – making the entire watch a little friendlier to the environmental than the 1980s originals. Initial thoughts Given the diverse and imaginative offerings at Swatch, it’s unusual for the company to reissue vintage watches, though it’s done a couple in the recent past. Interestingly, the 1984 collection resonates with the broader, luxury-watch market, which frequently returns to past hit...
Revolution
Buckle up for a moving, emotive tribute to Germany’s autobahns and its precision heart of watchmaking. Fast, furious, eco-friendly, and Bauhaus beautiful.
Time+Tide
What constitutes the ultimate tool watch for you? Should the case be made of durable materials? Do you want a movement that’s robust, reliable and easy to service? Should the size be small enough so it’s not prone to daily encounters with a door jam? It’s these type of questions that Tool Watch Co. (I … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Trilobe, in collaboration with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, created a clock with an aesthetic designed to jar you awake for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. And Trilobe's Nuit Fantastique, currently competing in the Petite Aiguille category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, represents the next step in aesthetic direction for Trilobe. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at both.
Hodinkee
And it's not a limited edition, thank god.
Deployant
In today's column, we will be going back to the basics and take a look at six compelling and excellent time-only dress watches.
Hodinkee
And it's not who you might expect.
Time+Tide
More than 60 years ago, Jack Heuer was inspired to create a timepiece with clean lines and proportions – a watch that leveraged a sense of modernity and purity. He wanted to create a harmonious chronograph watch that conveyed all the necessary information that drivers would love, but in an uncluttered manner that would allow … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands Collection delivers accessible style in a range of sizes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There is huge power in community, even if you don’t always realise it. And there’s nothing like a serendipitous meeting to remind you of the little threads of connection all around you that build that community. It was one such chance meeting that Sap experienced while wearing his Deep Blue watch that was custom-made for … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: I own a Rolex Hulk, but this is why I enjoy indies like Deep Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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