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Auction Watch: Enamelled Automaton Masterpieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned Oct 5, 2021

Auction Watch: Enamelled Automaton Masterpieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong Sale is primarily focused on wristwatches, encompassing several unique Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Eric Clapton and a dozen examples of early F.P. Journe. But two of the most valuables lots in the auction – and with estimates well into seven-figure US dollar sums – are a pair of museum-quality automata. Made for the Chinese market more than two centuries ago, this pair of objects are tremendously rare and exquisitely decorated in enamel and pearls. Two generations ago, such automata as well as pocket watches were the most respected genre in watch collecting. They were sought after by eminent collectors like the former chairman of HSBC and the German billionaire who was once the fifth-richest man in the world, which is why the record-setting lots in watch auctions of that era were inevitably pocket watches or objects, like the million-dollar Cremsdorff. Almost 400-years old, this pocket watch made by Jehan Cremsdorff sold for £2.175m, or about US$2.734m, including fees, at Sotheby’s in 2019 With the rise of wristwatches as the preeminent collecting category, demand for automata and pocket watches have declined sharply. Now the most expensive timepiece ever sold is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A mega-complication that sold for over US$33 million in 2019. But elaborately enamelled pocket watches are arguably the closest thing to fine art in horology, because of the intrinsic nature of the artisanal dec...

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Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2021

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022

After two years of digital fairs – and several sold-out physical fairs in China – Watches & Wonders is finally happening in Geneva. First announced for 2020 as the successor to the long-running SIHH, which for two decades was the luxury-watch fair in Geneva, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) 2022 will take place from March 30 to April 5 at Palexpo, with 39 brands in attendance. All of the major names that spurred the demise of Baselworld will exhibit at W&W; 2022, namely Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor. They’ll be joined by most of the brands owned by Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that was historically the anchor of SIHH, the event that preceded W&W;. Amongst the Richemont brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, and Vacheron Constantin. Another luxury group represented at the fair is LVMH, which has all three of its watch brands – Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – taking part. Bulgari, however, is notably absent, perhaps because there are already two Richemont-owned jewellers present. One of the significant newcomers is Grand Seiko, which only just announced its participation in the fair. Seiko was a longtime mainstay of Baselworld, so it’s not surprising that its top-of-the-line brand is returning to Switzerland to exhibit its newest watches. The gang returns, except for the independents As was the case with SIHH in the past, W&W; 2022 will include the Carré des Horlogers, a square dedicated to independent watchmakers. In years past the carré co...

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T3 Special Watches Introduces the Dague SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 96 while Oct 4, 2021

T3 Special Watches Introduces the Dague

Founded by a pair of Italian watch collectors, one of whom is vintage-watch dealer Andrea Marzari, T3 Special Watches is a young and unusual brand. T3 originated in the pair’s other hobby – both are motorcycle enthusiasts. They attempted to create a watch suited for long rides, but that ultimately proved fruitless. Instead, the two pivoted and conceived a vintage-inspired watch with an original design, and powered by a refinished Longines pocket watch movement from the early 2oth century, the Dague. The motivation behind the watch was simple – they wanted a watch that appealed to their taste in both design and mechanics, while being stylish and robust enough for everyday wear. After a year of riding their motorcycles with the prototypes, the duo debuted the first-generation Dague in 2018. Now the model has been refreshed with lacquer dials in eight vibrant colours ranging from turquoise to orange. Think of it as “Stella” dial meets a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, while powered by a vintage pocket watch movement. In lightweight titanium Initial thoughts The Dague is unusual for its mix of modern and vintage features. And it is not just vintage inspired – the movements are bona fide antiques, being based on Longines calibres from the 1920s and 1930s that were originally made for pocket watches. The use of vintage movements sets T3 apart from most micro-brands that rely on modern movements from makers such as ETA. That said, the use of refurbished vintage...

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Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Has a Favorite But Wonders If This Category Should Be Scrapped Altogether Quill & Pad
Oct 4, 2021

Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Has a Favorite But Wonders If This Category Should Be Scrapped Altogether

The Iconic category emphasizes men’s or women’s watches from a brand’s emblematic collection, meaning one that has had a lasting influence on watchmaking and its history as well as having been on the market for more than 20 years. Five of the watches pre-selected here are either time-only or time with date; one lone chronograph completes the set.

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Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic When Oct 4, 2021

Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

When you think of popular sports in Switzerland beginning with ’S’, naturally skiing or snowboarding spring to mind; soccer sometimes, squash if you’re that way inclined and skydiving at a stretch. Indeed, given the country’s land-locked geographical whereabouts, it will come as a surprise to many that you can also surf there. It’s not some … ContinuedThe post Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: Mitch Mason nails its second chapter with the Maelstrom Time+Tide
Oct 4, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Mitch Mason nails its second chapter with the Maelstrom

The diver is one of the most popular types of watches out there. Reliability and strength, even at lower price points, are reasons why the average watch collector loves them. This love, of course, doesn’t escape the notice of brands; with many releasing their own divers. That leads to hundreds, if not thousands of divers … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Mitch Mason nails its second chapter with the Maelstrom appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Debuts the Two-Tone Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Oct 3, 2021

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Two-Tone Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked

One of the six Code 11.59 models in the inaugural collection launched in 2019, the Tourbillon Openworked was the flagship – and also the most interesting aesthetically. In fact, the same watch was reimagined as a unique creation for charity auction Only Watch 2019 – where it sold for one million Swiss francs. And that turned out to be a hint of what was to come. And it has finally arrived in the form of the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked, in a two-tone case just like the unique 2019 example,  but with a striking, pale grey movement finish. The million-franc Only Watch 2019 edition Initial thoughts The new Code 11.59 tourbillon differs from the original version in colour and material, seeming superficial changes that are nonetheless crucial in bringing out the best features of the design. By virtue of its material mix, the two-tone case – the middle in pink gold and the rest in white gold – obviously has more contrast than the original single-tone version. This brings out the complex case form and finishes, especially the octagonal case middle with its alternating brushed and polished surfaces. And dressing the movement in light grey is a smart move that gives the watch a casual, chic look that goes well with the two-tone case. But the alteration of the case colours only work because the fundamentals are sound – despite the criticism the Code 11.59 received at launch. Conceived as a skeleton movement from the ground up, the cal. 2498 within has an attracti...

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Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service" Hodinkee
Bremont Oct 3, 2021

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service"

What is it about spy movies and watches? Bond had his Rolex (and now his OMEGA) and Bourne had his TAG Heuer. Those characters’ movies featured watches as subtle (okay, sometimes not so subtle) product placements. But the forthcoming spy thriller “Kingsman: The Secret Service” not only has watches front and center, its producers and costume designers also actually had three watches commissioned especially for it. Those watches are from Bremont, based on two of the brand’s existing chronographs, but with some unique features and the fictional secret organization’s logo on their dials.

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175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: A History Of Fine German Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Oct 3, 2021

175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: A History Of Fine German Watchmaking – Reprise

Watch- and clockmaking has a long history in Germany, as evidenced by the fifteenth- and sixteenth-century timepieces from the Nuremberg/Augsburg area and the academic discussions of Peter Henlein, who is said to have made the world’s first pocket watch around 1505. But the country's roots in great watchmaking do not stop there: Elizabeth Doerr takes us on an historical journey of Glashütte, the birthplace of modern Germany's fine watches.

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Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges: An Icon Zooms In The Partnership With Aston Martin Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Oct 2, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges: An Icon Zooms In The Partnership With Aston Martin

Earlier in 2021, Girard-Perregaux surprisingly announced a new partnership with luxury carmaker Aston Martin and quickly released the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Aston Martin in blackened titanium. During Geneva Watch Days, Girard-Perregaux introduced a pink gold variation in celebration of the brand’s 230th anniversary that took Elizabeth Doerr's breath away with its transparency, technicity, and sheer beauty.

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VIDEO: Hamilton is levelling up the Khaki Field Collection with the new Hamilton x Far Cry 6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium Time+Tide
Hamilton Oct 2, 2021

VIDEO: Hamilton is levelling up the Khaki Field Collection with the new Hamilton x Far Cry 6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium

When it comes to big-screen cameos, Hamilton is in a class of their own. From movies like Interstellar and Tenet to television shows like Jack Ryan, the brand holds the record for the most watches featured on screen. Today, however, Hamilton breaks into a new medium in a partnership with game developer Ubisoft. This marks the first-ever branded watch-integration for a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hamilton is levelling up the Khaki Field Collection with the new Hamilton x Far Cry 6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? Time+Tide
Rolex ? Here’s Oct 1, 2021

The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex?

Here’s a challenge: check your Instagram feed and see if you can go 24 hours without seeing a Rolex. Even though the brand itself post at a rate of once every two to three days, you’ll still find yourself inundated with pictures of dozens of references. Mind you, there is nothing wrong with this. Yet, … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Interview: Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Watch Design Chief SJX Watches
Cartier s Watch Design Chief Oct 1, 2021

Interview: Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Watch Design Chief

Cartier has enjoyed industry-beating growth since current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took over in 2016, with demand for both its watches and jewellery rising at a steady clip. One of the individuals behind the success of Cartier’s watch division is Marie-Laure Cérède. Having started her career at Cartier, she spent a dozen years at Harry Winston, before returning to the French jeweller in October 2016 as the Deputy Creative Director of Watchmaking. And in May 2017 she was elevated to the top job in design, making her ultimately responsible for the aesthetic of Cartier’s watchmaking. One of the first redesigns during Ms Cerede’s leadership was the Santos, which has evolved from the Santos launched in 1978 (far left), to the Santos 100 of the 2000s (centre), and finally the present model Her tenure has been marked by a steady stream of hits, ranging from collector favourites like the Tank Cintree to the trendy Tank Must. In that time, Cartier has reimagined most of its trademark watch lines, including the Santos and more recently, the Pasha. I spoke with Ms Cérède earlier this year to uncover the secret behind her successful rejuvenation of Cartier’s diverse line-up. Also present during the interview was Anne Charrier, the public relations-strategy manager for jewellery, watches, and accessories. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Cartier has a strong collection this year, both for men and women. And for a few years now, you have had stro...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is how to handle the scarcity of in-demand watches Time+Tide
Rolex watch shortage phenomena Oct 1, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is how to handle the scarcity of in-demand watches

Recently we covered the Rolex watch shortage phenomena, and the rare official statement provided by Rolex to Yahoo Finance in relation to their story. Rolex’s statement effectively claimed that scarcity was not a part of their strategy and that production cannot increase without compromising quality (which was something that Rolex would never do). But this … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is how to handle the scarcity of in-demand watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Our Predictions In The Men’s Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, 3 Picks For Winner Quill & Pad
Sep 30, 2021

Our Predictions In The Men’s Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, 3 Picks For Winner

The watches here are as different as day and night, with only two perhaps comparable to each other because they both have jump hour displays (but even these two are as different as it gets with one very classic in looks and the other ultramodern). Additionally, we have two chronographs, a worldtimer, and a mechanical opus with two time displays. It will be hard to choose among all this mechanical charm, but our panel pushes on.

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