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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 Time+Tide
Breguet x Frieze exhibition May 19, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21

On Wednesday afternoon in New York City, I returned to The Shed at Hudson Yards to check out the new Frieze exhibition of which Breguet is a proud sponsor. With eight floors hosting phenomenal artwork from renowned galleries and artists around the world, it is a great space to immerse yourself in various cultures and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 Deployant
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 Mar 13, 2023

Review: The New Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003

In 2020, the world bore witness to something off the beaten path from Grand Seiko: an openworked, concept movement which incorporates a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. This was the T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept movement. While impressive, the T0 was an uncased, unwearable movement; it was not aRead More

Mothers Of Invention: Behind The Lens With Invention Pieces 1 And 2 By Greubel Forsey – Reprise Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Reprise GaryG was delighted Feb 28, 2023

Mothers Of Invention: Behind The Lens With Invention Pieces 1 And 2 By Greubel Forsey – Reprise

GaryG was delighted to take possession of a Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 with its inclined double tourbillon, while a good friend of his replied in kind with a purchase of the quadruple-tourbillon Invention Piece 2. Ever since, he has been dying to get these two gorgeous monsters side by side in the light tent. And the time has finally come!

Greubel Forsey Balancier S2: 20 Years In The Making – Reprise Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier S2 20 Years Jan 29, 2023

Greubel Forsey Balancier S2: 20 Years In The Making – Reprise

Including established shapes, mechanics, and components within a watch that bucks the norm is a great way to gently pull people along as a watch brand goes in a new direction. Greubel Forsey has subtly mastered this technique, and the new Balancier S2 is the awesomely unique result. The Balancier S2 has the warmth of classic Greubel Forsey intermingled with the crisp future of the brand.

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes – Reprise Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon Dec 11, 2022

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes – Reprise

As Joshua Munchow swiped through posts on Instagram one day, he was stopped in his tracks, toothbrush dangling from his gaping mouth, eyes wide, and one singular thought running through his head as he stared at his phone: Grand Seiko doesn’t make movements like this. This is an avant-garde tourbillon movement with a constant force escapement and incredible, exposed mechanics! What in the world . . .?! Meet the T0.

Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 Dec 9, 2022

Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001

On very rare occasions does Grand Seiko create unique versions of its watches. But it has done so with a unique version of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon – the one-off reference SLGT001 – that will go under the hammer at Phillips’ New York auction December 11, with some proceeds from the sale going to a children’s charity. Anyone who read our earlier in-depth, two-part story on the Kodo (part I covers the watch and part II its technical features) will understand the the impressive technical achievement that is its movement. The SLGT001 has all of that, but in a unique execution specifically for the auction. Engraved “Unique Piece No. 1/1” on the back, the SLGT001 is instantly recognisable as a one-off. While the standard version of the model has a monochromatic grey palette, the SLGT001 is set apart by its colour: heat-blued and gilded components against rhodium-plated bridges. Most of the screws are blued steel, while the three-armed tourbillon carriage is blued titanium. And the SLGT001 is also distinguished by its case material. Unlike the standard model that has a case made up of both titanium and platinum, this is entirely in Brilliant Hard Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that boasts a brighter, more silvery hue than most titanium alloys. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the SLGT001 will go to the Children’s Heart Foundation. Besides benefiting a good cause, the winning bidder will also get a trip to Japan to meet the team behind...

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual Time+Tide
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Nov 8, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual

Collaborative limited editions are nothing new to the industry. It would seem over the last few years we see one debut every month, and the trend is still going strong. But with so many hitting the market, it is more important than ever for all parties involved to realise something that is truly fresh that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 13, 2022

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture Sep 24, 2022

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

A hallmark of Greubel Forsey’s unique brand of watchmaking is its inclined, high-speed tourbillon that completes two and a half revolutions per minute. In fact, it was the first tourbillon by Greubel Forsey (GF) when the brand made its debut in 2004. Almost two decades on, the brand’s quintessential regulator has been installed in something entirely different with the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the inclined tourbillon remains, the Architecture is almost entirely new as a watch, comprising a brand-new case design containing a reconstructed movement – that is a tangible realisation of architecture – which together form a cohesive whole. Initial thoughts The Architecture may seem like just another GF sports watch at first sight, so one might dismiss it as being merely a repurposed movement modified to fit into the brand’s bestselling sports watch case. But it is more than that. The inclined tourbillon has been transformed into something refreshingly novel where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. And it manages to be novel despite high-end sports watches being increasingly common. In short, it’s one of the most notable watches in the GF line-up. Despite the familiar mechanics of the tourbillon, the details of the movement have been comprehensively reimagined to emphasise the brand’s distinctive approach to movement construction, one that prizes three-dimensionality in design matched with impeccable finishing. This incremental improv...

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Sep 8, 2022

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition

A “concept” store for high-end watches when it first opened in 2005, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) closed its original location in the now-closed Hilton hotel in 2019. Three years on, Singapore retailer Sincere is reviving SHH at the city state’s landmark casino resort. To commemorate the event, SHH has unveiled several limited editions created in collaboration with independent watchmakers led by the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition. A watch with twin balance wheels linked by a differential, the SHH edition is housed in the streamlined “Convexe” case that defines the Greubel Forsey’s sports watches. But unlike the brand’s sports watches to date, this is striking in an ultra-contemporary purple livery that’s uncommon for such a complicated watch. The rationale behind the juxtaposition of bold colours and refined complications is straightforward according to Sincere chief executive Ong Ban. “For the new generation, watches go with their dress and the younger ones want… [watches] that go with sneakers or hoodies,” explains Mr Ong, “But while the cosmetics evolve over the years, but the essence of finely executed movements remains the same.” Even the titanium main plate of the movement is finished in purple Initial thoughts The new Double Balancier is a haute horlogerie sports watch in an eye-catching colour and the requisite integrated strap that will no doubt draw a new audience to the brand. While Greubel Forsey (GF) wat...

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Aug 29, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe

Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Jul 5, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...

INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS” Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Jun 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS”

If you’ve ever been catching some public transport and spotted someone wearing a six-figure luxury watch, you know the feeling of seeing something extraordinary in an ordinary context. The Mercedes-AMG ONE is possibly the most extreme example of this concept - a hypercar using Formula 1 technology to achieve over 1000 horsepower in a street-legal … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon Jun 12, 2022

INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon

With hair neatly parted and pocket square cheekily stuffed into his breast pocket, Takuma Kawauchiya doesn’t look like a former guitarist in a rock band that once toured around the world. But music’s loss has been the watch world’s gain in a very big way. The Grand Seiko R&D; engineer and watchmaker is responsible for the T0 Constant … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.