Hodinkee
Introducing: The New In-House Oris Caliber 400
An Oris of a different color, you might say.
Results for Movement vs Caliber
3,333 articles · 17 videos found · page 8 of 112
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Split-Seconds Intention With The IWC Caliber 79230
A Doppelchronograph by any other name.
Quill & Pad
Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each
Many people believe resonance to be very rare, when in fact every single timekeeping device (yes, even quartz) is a resonant mechanism. But clocks and watches featuring resonance as we generally understand it in watchmaking are few and far between. In the last few decades, less than a handful of highly skilled watchmakers have taken up the challenge of creating a resonance watch. Here, Joshua Munchow looks at the pros and cons of the different approaches taken by the three leaders in this technology.
Quill & Pad
Watches And Guitars: Longines vs. Gibson, And John Mayer’s Take On ‘Relicing’
Colin Alexander Smith highlights the fact that both electric guitars and watches share the timeless debate over whether to restore an item showing its age or to preserve it “as is.” And John Mayer is mixed up in both; but how?
Quill & Pad
Worldtimer vs. GMT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire
Do you need to know the time in various time zones? What is the real difference between a worldtimer and a GMT watch? How complicated are these watches to use? Chris Malburg answers these questions and more after spending some quality time with two enchanting multi-time zone watches.
Revolution
TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber 16
The new Carrera models get subtle upgrades with an emphasis on the watch’s motorsport heritage.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Caliber 321 Platinum
Fifty years after it went to the Moon, the engine inside the Apollo Moonwatches is once again powering a Speedmaster.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Speedmaster Reduced vs. Professional Moonwatch: Bargain or Bust?
Opinions are divided - The Speedmaster Reduced or the Professional Moonwatch? Is one more "authentic" than the other? Is one better than the other? Get the details right here at Two Broke Watch Snobs.
Revolution
Revolution Awards 2017: Revolutionary Watch - Zenith Defy Lab Caliber ZO 342
Once again, the global editors of Revolution weigh in on the best timepieces of the year, as well as the personalities that shaped the watch industry.
Time+Tide
Space odyssey: How the Omega Calibre 321 became the first watch movement on the moon
In many ways, outer space and space exploration have become a routine part of life. We all carry a device that listens to signals from space in the form of our mobile phone. Most can receive messages from GPS satellites in medium earth orbit more than 20,000km away. Just as space is now entwined with … ContinuedThe post Space odyssey: How the Omega Calibre 321 became the first watch movement on the moon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 - a new movement in the house
Raymond Weil, one of the few independent, family-owned operations in the Swiss watch industry, marked their 40th birthday this year. And while I’m sure there was cake, and perhaps even champagne, the best part of the celebrations has to be the Calibre RW1212. This automatic movement, with distinctive open-heart escapement, is unique to Raymond Weil, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 – a new movement in the house appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Most Notable Watches of 2019
Oddly enough, one of the year’s highlights is a quartz watch that costs almost US$17,000 – but it is the most accurate wristwatch ever, rated to run within a second a year and probably less in practice. The Citizen Caliber 0100 slightly plain but the technology within is mighty impressive. Also impressive is the thought and effort put into developing the movement; that is extremely Japanese. It feels slightly anachronistic given the alternatives that can sync with GPS or radio waves and keep just as good time, but it is still mighty impressive. The top of the line model is in 18k white gold, explaining the price tag, but fortunately there’s a titanium model with the same movement for half the price. The Citizen Caliber 0100 The 0100S movement Sporty-ish and value For almost exactly the same price, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph scores high in terms of value for money. It’s an ultra-thin – really, really thin – chronograph with a second time zone function that continues Bulgari’s streak of extra-flat Octo watches. Though the design is thoroughly modern, its slimness and proportions give it a graceful air. But at 42mm the case is verges on looking like a biscuit because it is flat and wide. And the thinness of the movement, combined with a rather small balance wheel, inevitably invite questions about its robustness. The Octo chronograph That is very flat More expensive but also strong value for money is the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus. Looks-wise, it...
Revolution
The Seamaster Aqua Terra > 15’000 gauss
One of the most dramatic technological innovations in recent memory is the OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 8508. It is resistant to magnetic fields greater than 1.5 tesla (15,000 gauss), far exceeding the levels of magnetic resistance achieved by any previous watch movement and solving a problem that has challenged watchmakers for many decades. The mechanical movement […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473: A New (In-House) Movement In A Familiar Package
description and review of Oris 473 a new hand wound watch
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Takes The Oris In-House Movement To New Heights
This watch is a hit, plane and simple.
Fratello
Tantalizing Tantalum: The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò
Truth be told, the original Atelier Wen Inflection already felt like a statement. A young brand executing an integrated-bracelet sports watch in 99.9% pure tantalum, pairing it with grand feu enamel, and backing it with a customized Girard-Perregaux movement was ambitious. Now comes the Inflection Shuò, a collaboration with New York-based Massena Lab that elevates […] Visit Tantalizing Tantalum: The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Drops an Affordable Titanium Dive Watch Under $500
Timex unveils the Expedition Pioneer Titanium Automatic, a 41mm diver with NH35 movement, sapphire, and titanium case starting under $500.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Traska Pushes Its Design Philosophy Further With a Mechanical Chronograph
A closer look at the TRASKA Chronograph, featuring a Seiko NE86 column-wheel movement, hardened steel case, and unconventional subdial design.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: James Ward Packard
On 27 April 1927 a nurse walked into a room at the Cleveland Clinic carrying a leather case. The patient was sixty-four, a section of skull removed, the ache of radiation still working behind his eyes. On the charts he appeared as James Ward Packard, co-founder of Packard Electric and Packard Motor Car Company. To the nurse he was a difficult case. To Geneva he remained the client for whom Patek Philippe had just completed movement number 198’023, an astronomical watch that had absorbed three years of calculation and bench work. James Ward Packard. Image – Lehigh University Photograph Collection Inside the case lay a carillon minute repeater on three gongs, coupled to a full perpetual calendar with moon phase, equation of time, and sunrise and sunset indications calculated for Warren, Ohio. On the reverse, a deep blue sky disk carried five hundred and twelve gold stars, turning at sidereal speed around a small Polaris. The sky above his birthplace had been compressed into a circle of lapis and gold, moving in his hands as it moved above the town where he had been born, built factories, endowed an engineering laboratory, and which he now understood lay beyond any realistic hope of return. Consolation held little appeal for him. Packard placed his trust in precision, in the ability to describe a situation so exactly that it became bearable. The watch answered a question he had circled since childhood: if the world always exceeds your grasp, can you still know, to the min...
Time+Tide
The new Seiko Marinemaster Professional SLA081 is a hardcore, GS-powered monster tributing the very first Seiko diver
Titanium monobloc case, awesome dial design, and a Grand Seiko-derived movement.The post The new Seiko Marinemaster Professional SLA081 is a hardcore, GS-powered monster tributing the very first Seiko diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Chronograph Reset Mechanism
Continuing with our series focused on the mechanical chronograph – we already explained the vertical and horizontal chronograph clutches, along with the advantages and shortcomings of each – we now turn to another vital component but rarely discussed: the chronograph reset mechanism. While the clutch enables energy transmission between the base movement and chronograph, it plays no role in returning the chronograph indicators to a zeroed position. This is accomplished by an altogether separate mechanism that is synchronised with the clutch action but functions independently. The reset mechanism indexes all the chronograph indicators (hours, minutes, and seconds) back to the zero position, and keeping them securely in place until the chronograph is started once again. Any reset mechanism generally comprises of two main components: a heart cam and reset hammer. The two interact based on clever geometry and illustrates mathematics is often the underlying basis of watchmaking, or more specifically, movement construction. The chronograph works of a Breitling B01 movement, with the reset heart cams (12, 13, and 17) in purple. Image – Breitling patent The heart cam Named after its distinctive outline, the heart cam is a seemingly simple component that is in fact the product of some ingenious engineering. While the cam has a turning axis and is a rotational system – in other words, it revolves on a fixed axis – a clear analogy can be made with linear systems. In order to...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Boutique-Only Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue
First presented in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono surprised a bit the brand’s fans with its mix of classic dive watch elements (solid water-resistance and snowflake hands) and racing cues, with the chronograph function and external tachymeter bezel. Multiple editions of this watch will follow, all powered by a Breitling-derived automatic movement, including the […]
Quill & Pad
Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Zebra Unique Piece Featuring First In-House Micro-Rotor Caliber K.33.3 Movement
Konstantin Chaykin has designed, developed, and manufactured his own automatic movement, caliber K.33.3, which features a tungsten micro-rotor. The movement makes its debut in the unique piece Zebra Wristmon.
Time+Tide
Battle of the French independents - Yema Superman 500 versus the Baltic Aquascaphe
Independent vs micro. France vs France. Yema vs Baltic.The post Battle of the French independents – Yema Superman 500 versus the Baltic Aquascaphe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Boldr Introduces the Venture Singularity in Ultra-Black
Founded by a group of watch enthusiasts from Singapore and Malaysia, Boldr Supply Co. first got off the ground on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter like many of its peers. Now best known for its affordable sports watches, the brand’s latest has a titanium case containing Seiko movement, but the highlight is something else, or more specifically, nothing else. The Venture Singularity has a dial of infinite blackness thanks to a coating of Musou Black, which absorbs 99.4% of incident light. Made by a Japanese company, Musou Black is similar to better known Vantablack in being blacker than black. Initial thoughts Boldr nails it again with another affordable and fun watch, but the Singularity stands out for its value proposition, one that’s arguably better than Boldr’s other offerings. As watches with ultra-black dial go, this has little competition – comparable watches usually cost much, much more. Boldr isn’t the first microbrand offering such a dial at a modest price but the Singularity is an unusually complete package with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, along with a useful 200 m water resistance. Granted, the Singularity still looks and feels like it price aside from the dial, but it is something novel amongst watches that are very accessible. Priced at US$445, the Singularity unsurprisingly sold out quickly when the first batch went on sale. But it’s not a limited edition and pre-orders for the second batch are now open with delivery starting in...
Time+Tide
GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Oris delivers new Divers Sixty-Five with caliber 400 movement and more
Oris has been on a hot streak of late, debuting the ProPilot X cal. 400, various Aquis divers including the Billion Oyster Project Limited Edition, as well as the Wings of Hope Limited Editions among others. The independent brand has proven they can play in a versatile range of price points – maintaining entry-level pieces with … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Oris delivers new Divers Sixty-Five with caliber 400 movement and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Citizen Combines Japanese Paper Dials and Cutting-Edge Quartz
Long available only to the Japanese domestic market, Citizen’s top-of-the-line quartz watches have been slowly making their way into foreign countries in recent years (although last year’s high-end mechanical Caliber 0200 was launched internationally). The latest high-end quartz model, however, is being launched globally. The Citizen Iconic Nature Collection is a quartet of lightweight titanium watches featuring dials made of traditional, translucent Japanese paper dyed in vivid, natural colours. But the mechanics are cutting edge in contrast – a solar-powered quartz movement accurate to within five seconds a year. Initial thoughts Citizen’s ultra-accurate quartz watches are largely unknown outside of Japan, but that is gradually changing with the global rollout of new models, which are crucially dressed in eye-catching colours instead of the muted dials historically found on these watches. Citizen has used washi for dials on The Citizen before, but usually in a low-key white. The new Iconic Nature quartet calls to mind high-end quartz watches from Citizen’s Japanese rival, though Citizen’s offering edges ahead, at least on paper. The solar-powered A060 inside the Iconic Nature is accurate to +/- 5 seconds per year, while the Grand Seiko 9F movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per year. And the practicality of the A060 is boosted by a perpetual calendar as well as an “on-demand” power reserve indicator. The price tag of US$3,500 is might seem high for an...
SJX Watches
Laine Watches Introduce the 13ZN Chronograph Piece Unique
Best known for his affordable, customisable watches, Torsti Laine recently completed a chronograph that was several years in the making. Commissioned by one of his earliest clients, the Laine Watches AKIL13ZN Piece Unique reimagines a fabled Longines 13ZN chronograph movement, while still retaining originality in style and substance. The watch is powered by a vintage 13ZN movement that was rejuvenated by Mr Laine and matched with a newly-made case and dial inspired by chronographs of the 1930s and 1940s. Initial thoughts Even though the watch is a one-off that will not be repeated – Mr Laine is no longer making chronographs – it is a well-executed realisation of the owner’s vision that is worth a quick look. And it was also done at reasonable cost, illustrating Mr Laine’s focus on excellent but affordable watchmaking. The aesthetic is clearly vintage inspired, but done with an eye for detail that clearly came from a collector. Elements like the arrow-shaped hand on the minute register, or the large, flat crown, are small yet important in establishing the pleasing, period-correct look. Notably, the movement is nearly identical to how it was when it left the factory, having only been modestly modified. This is contrary to current tastes in refinishing vintage movements to a modern standard, but it is sensible in both aesthetics – the vintage-inspired dial and case suit the movement well – and also cost, since extensive decoration is not necessary. The watch is ...
SJX Watches
Gyre Introduces the SeaCleaner
Gyre Watch is a watch brand that offers an affordable, fun dive watch that supports a good cause. Founded by Dutch watch journalist Bernard Werk, the brand is making its debut with the Gyre SeaCleaner. An affordable, no-nonsense sports watch with a solar-powered movement, the SeaCleaner has a case and strap made from recycled ocean waste – with part of the proceeds from its sale going to an ocean cleanup charity. Initial thoughts Bold in its contrasting-colour scheme, the SeaCleaner has brightly-coloured accents in green, blue or black, and a large, 42 mm cushion case that’s reminiscent of 1970s dive watches, giving it a retro vibe. Inside is a robust Seiko movement that’ll do what it’s supposed to do. In short, the SeaCleaner is tried-and-tested look that works well for a sports watch and it costs only about US$200. Environmentally supportive Gyre will donate 5% of sales to The Ocean Cleanup – a Dutch NGO that is working to remove plastic waste from the oceans. And with both the straps and cases made of recycled material, the watches themselves will contribute to the cleanup. The black plastic cases are made from recycled fishing nets, which are mostly made of plastic. Collected by fishermen around the Indian Ocean – Gyre pays the fishermen for the nets – the discarded nets are cleaned and turned into plastic pellets that are then moulded into the cases. Unlike many all-black watch cases that are done that way for aesthetic effect, the composite derive...
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction - The Final Additions #2
Finally, we have the last additions to the “Watch & Act!” Auction. Lot 22: TAG Heuer – Unique Piece, Autavia Caliber 5 ‘Watch & Act!’ Edition First released in 2019, this collection represented the first time the name Autavia had been given to a time-only watch, which is originally a portmanteau of automobile and aviation … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction – The Final Additions #2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.