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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight with the RM 55-01 SJX Watches
Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight Apr 20, 2026

Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight with the RM 55-01

In an unexpected departure from their its horological extravaganza, Richard Mille has just unveiled the time-only RM 55-01. With a focus on simplified movement architecture and lightness, the RM 55-01’s movement is a hand-wound exercise in restraint and weighs under 5 g – equivalent to one sheet of A4 paper. Initial thoughts At its debut in the early 2000s, Richard Mille basically introduced and then perfected the niche offering of ultra-expensive, “hyper” sports watches, juggling complications, materials and bold aesthetics to create an outrageously expensive cocktail of lightness and ergonomics. With the RM55-01 the same brand returns to the basics, with a caliber developed for extreme lightness, doing away with automatic winding or any complications. The watch only tells the hours, minutes and seconds - which is not really something one expects from Richard Mille these days.  This RM 55-01 feels like a spiritual descendant of the discontinued RM 55 “Bubba Watson”. The case lines and the movement itself are very reminiscent of that model, although the RM 055 was mostly marketed as a light but sturdy golfer’s watch. The new RM55-01 is presented as a pure exercise in weight reduction. Though the price of the RM 55-01 is unavailable, it is probably unjustifiable in any tangible or intrinsic sense. But is a mechanical watch that weighs as much as a few sheets of paper extremely cool? Yes – if you can afford it. Airy construction The RM 55-01 is built with ...

First Look – The Yellow Gold Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376 Grand Apr 15, 2026

First Look – The Yellow Gold Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376

Grand Seiko is renowned for its nature-inspired, handcrafted dials that capture Japan’s seasonal landscapes. The annual flowering of the cherry blossom heralds the arrival of spring and inspires profound reverence in Japan as a symbol of life’s fleeting beauty and renewal. Grand Seiko captures the evanescent beauty of the cherry blossom for a lifetime on […]

Introducing – Bremont Goes Playful with the Altitude MB Meteor “Felix the Cat” Edition Monochrome
Bremont Goes Playful Mar 6, 2026

Introducing – Bremont Goes Playful with the Altitude MB Meteor “Felix the Cat” Edition

Bremont‘s aviation-focused Altitude collection just added a new reference with a playful yet historically grounded collaboration: the Altitude MB Meteor Felix the Cat, created in partnership with Universal Products & Experiences. Why? It turns out that the cartoon character has a place in aviation culture, serving as a long-standing symbol of courage, humour, and good […]

Hands-on – Nomos Goes Precious, with the Elegant Tangente Gold and Ludwig Gold (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Nomos Goes Precious Mar 4, 2026

Hands-on – Nomos Goes Precious, with the Elegant Tangente Gold and Ludwig Gold (Incl. Video)

Every brand at one point dreamt of having an icon on their hands. A cornerstone model that stands the test of time, design trends, and, more importantly, captures the hearts of fans and collectors worldwide, indefinitely. Watches like the Lange 1, the Submariner, the Nautilus, the Speedmaster or the Royal Oak. For Nomos, even though […]

Bulgari Goes Big with a Pair of Opulent LVMH Watch Week Releases Worn & Wound
Bulgari Goes Big Jan 19, 2026

Bulgari Goes Big with a Pair of Opulent LVMH Watch Week Releases

There are two things I really like about Bulgari. The first being that I’m not entirely sure how to spell their brand’s name. Bulgari? Bvlgari? Both? A secret third option? At any rate, I find it a bit chic to have a bit of runic ambiguity in a modern-day brand. The second thing I enjoy is their commitment to glamour. In today’s fashion and jewelry market, there is an inundation of simplistic, minimalistic styles. Personally speaking, I’m quite fond of dressing like I live in the Nordics, but a bit of eye candy every now and then never hurt anyone. That is to say, I’m quite pleased to share the release of two new watches, which will be presented in Milan during LVMH Watch Week, beginning today. Let me introduce you to: Maglia Milanese Monete and Tubogas Manchette. First up, the Maglia Milanese Monete revisits Bulgari’s Monete concept from the mid-1960s, centered around an authentic Roman coin from the reign of Emperor Caracalla. It is paired with a rose gold Milanese mesh bracelet, marking the brand’s first use of the technique and giving the watch a more fluid look on the wrist, nodding more to Bulgari’s jewelry-making history. The dial itself is concealed beneath the coin, while the watch is powered by Bulgari’s Piccolissimo BVP100. The manually wound movement measures just 13.5mm in diameter and 2.5mm thick, and offers a 30-hour power reserve, which can be viewed through the sapphire caseback. Next, the Tubogas Manchette takes its cues from a 1970s des...

First Look – Nomos Goes Gold, With Precious Editions of the Tangente Neomatik and Ludwig Monochrome
Nomos Goes Gold Nov 13, 2025

First Look – Nomos Goes Gold, With Precious Editions of the Tangente Neomatik and Ludwig

When you think about Nomos, besides the cool designs and youthful take on classic German watchmaking from Glashütte, you often picture a nice, relatively attainable watch in stainless steel. There are, of course, several higher-end models in the collection, such as the Lux and Lambda, and sometimes more luxurious special editions in gold, as recently […]

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin with The Twelve 660 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin Aug 28, 2025

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin with The Twelve 660

When Christopher Ward’s The Twelve debuted a few years ago, I have to admit I was a little skeptical at first. At the time, every brand under the sun was trying to get into the integrated bracelet sports watch game, and on paper The Twelve seemed a little derivative (there were many, many comments about its resemblance to a certain integrated bracelet sports watch from a much loved indie brand). Those first watches were…exactly fine. I appreciated the execution and the price point, but they weren’t really for me – I think it was the logo inspired dial texture that didn’t quite work to my eye. But over a relatively short time, The Twelve has evolved. Lots of new colors, sizes, and dial treatments means that there’s basically a Twelve for anyone, and the watch has become an effective platform for some of Christopher Ward’s most adventurous watchmaking. Indeed, their marquee release for 2025, the C12 Loco, is based on the architecture of The Twelve. And you know what? After being around these watches at Windups and other enthusiast events, I’ve even warmed up to that dial texture. Tastes change, what can I say?  All of this is to say that The Twelve is maturing, and has been around long enough at this point to win people over who might not have been on board at the start. And that’s the environment into which Christopher Ward is releasing what seems to be to be among the most exciting watches in The Twelve collection yet, the new The Twelve 660. The name ...

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Goes Apr 30, 2025

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique

After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology.  The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type.  The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back.  An artful dial The centrepiece of the Gala...

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection Worn & Wound
H. Moser Goes “Pop” Apr 4, 2025

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection

It’s well understood at this point that stone dials are experiencing a renaissance in all corners of the watch market. In fact, it might almost be kind of boring to point this out as we continue to see new spins on these dials released on an almost weekly basis. So it would be tempting to say that H. Moser is jumping on the stone dial bandwagon with their new Pop collection, the centerpiece of their Watches & Wonders 2025 strategy. But I don’t think that’s quite fair. Moser, for their part, has been ahead of the curve on stone dials. They’ve released a handful of extremely limited watches with dials crafted from jade, falcon’s eye, and other stones in recent years. And with the Pop collection watches, they’ve done something genuinely creative, combining multiple stones in each dial in unexpected ways across three different models.  The Pop collection exists in the Endeavour line, and makes use of all three watches on the platform: the Endeavour Small Seconds, Endeavour Tourbillon, and Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept. There are six groups of three watches, each making use of a combination of two stones. The stone pairings are Burmese jade and pink opal, lapis lazuli and lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise and coral. Each pairing is executed in two ways, with one stone being dominant in each. So, for example, there’s a Small Seconds model with Burmese jade in the main dial and pink opal in the sub seconds, and another with the opposite. For the tourb...

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra Worn & Wound
Tudor Goes Deep Apr 2, 2025

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra

Tudor’s most technical dive range receives its most technical entry yet. Over the last few years, we’ve seen the Pelagos expand quite dramatically, starting with the introduction of the FXD series, which has ranged from military-spec via the M.N. to carbon fiber chronographs, to a GMT, to standard varieties, as well as the smaller-wrist-compatible Pelagos 39. For 2025, however, we’re seeing a return or a close relative to the original Pelagos, with a 1000m variant called the Pelagos Ultra. At double the water resistance of the original, 1000m is undoubtedly the headline of the Ultra, but there are many subtle changes to the design that give this new watch its own personality. First, the case is a touch larger at 43mm in diameter (vs 42mm for the original), 52mm lug-to-lug (my measure), and 14.8mm thick. While these dimensions sound imposing, they were more tolerable than expected on the wrist, largely because of the lightweight grade 2 titanium construction. The spacing between the dial and the crystal was reduced to keep the case relatively thin, or at least not thicker than the original. As such, the rehaut was redesigned to be flat and a touch wider. While I am a bit remiss to see the steeply angled rehaut with cutouts of the original get cut, as I found it a particularly enjoyable design that added a contemporary and aggressive edge to the watch, the new version is less distracting and allows for more dial space. In turn, the applied hour markers and hands are la...

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Goes Solar Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Goes Solar Apr 1, 2025

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Goes Solar

Much to the chagrin of my fellow automotive enthusiast friends, I am not an ardent Formula 1 follower-I prefer motorsports of the all-wheel drive variety, coated in mud in the Finnish wilderness. Still, the allure of the screaming engines, blinding speed, and pure bling of Formula 1 isn’t lost on me. Millions of fans worldwide are captivated by the sport and its entrants for a reason-and TAG Heuer, the official timekeeper of Formula 1, has nine new references to match that ever-growing fervor. In celebration of the colorful 1986 origin of the brand’s Formula 1 Collection, the new models feature bright hues and a reimagined design. Three of the nine pieces feature the more “classic” dial colors of black and white or blue on a steel bracelet. The remaining six are limited edition colorways: black and red, black and yellow, blue and black, white and green, white and red, and green and red.  According to TAG Heuer, each model pays direct homage to the 1986 collection in design and function. However, key changes reflect contemporary taste-instead of the original 35mm, the new cases (constructed of sandblasted steel or TH-Polylight depending on the model) measure 38mm but retain the sporty aesthetic that the line is known for. The original shield-shaped markers have also been modernized, appearing now as applied and Super-Luminova-treated indexes. The “Mercedes”-style hands carry on, as does the chunky 60-second scale bezel, date window at 3 o’clock, and agg...

First Look – The Louis Erard Regulator X GoS with Damascus Steel Dial Monochrome
Louis Erard Regulator X GoS Mar 13, 2025

First Look – The Louis Erard Regulator X GoS with Damascus Steel Dial

Over the years, Swiss brand Louis Erard has made a name for itself with two distinctive features. One, a rather sturborness in making watches with a regulator display, something that has become a signature. Second, bringing cool design and features reserved for high-end watches at more accessible prices thanks to multiple collaborations with independent watchmakers, […]

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Tambour Goes Upmarket Feb 17, 2025

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones

During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...

First Look – The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox goes Precious Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox goes Jan 22, 2025

First Look – The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox goes Precious

TAG Heuer’s Carrera has been basking in the limelight for 62 years now, a timeless racing-inspired chronograph designed by Jack Heuer in 1963, named after the Carrera Panamericana Road race. Celebrating its 60th anniversary in 2023, TAG Heuer introduced a compact 39mm edition of the Carrera with a pronounced domed sapphire crystal, imitating the look […]

Hands-on – The New and Bold Audemars Piguet x KAWS Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Companion Monochrome
Audemars Piguet x KAWS Royal Oak Nov 19, 2024

Hands-on – The New and Bold Audemars Piguet x KAWS Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Companion

Among Switzerland’s elite Haute Horlogerie brands, Audemars Piguet often stands out for doing things differently and exploring different territories. In particular, the brand is not shy to connect watchmaking to a broader culture as we have seen with recent collabs with Marvel (Spiderman, Black Panther) or with the cool Travis Scott x AP Royal Oak […]

[VIDEO] The Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz Sep 25, 2024

[VIDEO] The Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz

When you work in the watch industry, one of the questions you get asked over and over again is “What’s the best watch for $XXX?” The dollar amount is constantly shifting depending on who is asking the question or their level of horological curiosity, but over time I think most of develop a stock answer to questions like these. My favorite recommendation for almost anyone asking about watches under $1,000 is some version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. These are, and have always been, fantastic watches. They’re affordable, easy to read, and now come in a variety of sizes, dial colors, and case metals to suit just about any taste. But the not-so-secret weapon, in my opinion, is the manually wound movement. If using a watch like this everyday, dutifully winding it as needed, doesn’t hook you on this hobby, I kind of don’t know what will.  My own admiration for the mechanical versions of these watches aside, it comes as no real surprise that Hamilton would want to expand the potential reach of the Khaki Field by offering an even easier to wear quartz version. And that’s what we have here. It’s a somewhat strange proposition, taking a watch whose identity, such as it is, is based around a mechanical caliber, and removing it entirely from the equation, but it turns out that even in a quartz configuration the Khaki Field retains a lot of its character.  The new Khaki Field Quartz watches are available in both the familiar 38mm and a new 33mm size in whit...

Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Goes Full Gold Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Goes Jul 30, 2024

Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Goes Full Gold

The Bathyscaphe, Blancpain‘s more compact and streamlined version of the Fifty Fathoms, was first released in 1956. Compared to its full-fledged counterpart, with larger cases, more water-resistance and a more instrument-like design, the Bathyscaphe crosses borders and Blancpain uses to bring complications or higher-end materials within a diver’s context. Following the recent introduction of full […]