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Pulsometer Scale

Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.

Seiko Marks 50 Years of the Watch that Started the Quartz Crisis SJX Watches
Citizen introduced Oct 31, 2019

Seiko Marks 50 Years of the Watch that Started the Quartz Crisis

Seiko changed watchmaking when it introduced the Quartz Astron in December 1969. Though it cost as much as a small car, it was the first commercially available quartz watch. Technology and economies of scale would rapidly reduce the cost of the quartz watch, enough that by the late 1970s the Swiss watch industry was in full blown meltdown – the Quartz Crisis. To mark the 50th anniversary of that landmark watch, Seiko has just introduced the 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Though powered by a latest generation, solar-powered and GPS-enabled quartz movement, the Astron anniversary edition is visually a remake of the original – and it still costs as much as a small car, or about US$35,000. Notably, the Astron anniversary comes a couple months after Citizen introduced its own an ultra-high end quartz watch, also with a solid gold case, but with a different approach to technology. The case of the Astron anniversary is 18k yellow gold and cushion-shaped like the original, but slightly larger at 40.9mm in diameter. The top surface of the case is “hand carved” with a fine, grain-like motif echoing the textured finish of the vintage Quartz Astron. And the pattern on the remake is a reference to itself: the carved grain motif is executed in a circular manner around the bezel, a nod to the fact that Seiko has come full circle in reproducing the 1969 design. Similarly, the dial on the new watch has a vertical, linear graining, also inspired by the finish...

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Oct 1, 2019

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration

The epic Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 was massive not just in scale and numbers, but also in the Patek Philippe executives who travelled halfway across the world from Geneva to Singapore just for the event. All of the company’s top management is the town for the event, including president Thierry Stern, chief executive Claude Peny, and commercial director Jerome Pernici. But perhaps the most interesting personality for a hardcore watch geek is Dr Peter Friess, curator of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. A studied man who’s spent his life in museums and cultural institutions, Dr Friess is an art historian by training but also a true horologist. He’s the sort of guy who gets deeply excited over the “new old stock” 369-year old Cremsdorff pocket watch the museum recently acquired, and is familiar with the catgut used in 16th century chain and fusee mechanisms. Dr Peter Friess at the Singapore exhibition, with a portrait of Antoine Norbert de Patek behind him The first ever Patek Philippe wristwatch; importantly, it was not conceived as a bangle with a pendant watch movement bolted on, instead it is a timepiece for the wrist Unsurprisingly, the German native is also a professional watch- and clockmaker. Dr Friess joined the Patek Philippe Musuem as Director and Curator exactly seven years ago. Before that, he was President of the Tech Museum of Innovation in California, as well as a curator at the Smithsonian where he put tog...

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age SJX Watches
Sep 10, 2019

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age

Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...

The DOXA Chronograph - as good as their divers? Time+Tide
Doxa Chronograph – as good Aug 11, 2019

The DOXA Chronograph - as good as their divers?

Editor’s note: Everyone knows Doxa make a great dive watch, but not as many people know they also produced excellent chronographs in the 1940s and ’50s. This is the story of one of those watches, a black dial Doxa chronograph with a spiral telemeter scale, worth significantly more than the €1200 Paul originally laid down … ContinuedThe post The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Aug 1, 2019

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic

It’s easy to forget or overlook the magnitude of what Hublot has achieved with their materials innovation - the scale and scope of their sapphire pieces is impressive to say the least, and their use of ceramic is amongst the most interesting in the business (which is no small feat given that every brand and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Jul 14, 2019

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch”

Montblanc recently introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a bronze case, black, multi-scale dial, and a monopusher, split-seconds Minerva movement inside. Priced at just 33,500 Swiss francs, it is a bargain as such things go. Now Montblanc has taken the covers off the one-of-a-kind, titanium version with a blue agate dial created for charity auction Only Watch 2019. Though it costs a bit more – the estimate is 42,000-48,000 Swiss francs – the watch still feels like a steal. The dial is made of blue agate, a hard, semiprecious stone, with a graduated colour that darkens towards the edges. Design-wise it’s the same as that found on the bronze model: inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made by Minerva, it has a double chronograph scale – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the middle. The contrast of white and red against the blue dial is both refreshing and striking. Notably, the dial forgoes the faux-aged “lume” of the bronze model; the cathedral hands and numerals are instead filled with white Super-LumiNova, letting the retro design speak for itself. The large dimensions of the case remain unchanged from the standard bronze model – 44mm in diameter and 14.55mm high – but it’s significantly lighter thanks to the lightness of titanium. The sapphire caseback reveals the gorgeous, hand-wound and hand-finished MB M16.31. It is essentially the MB M16.29 derived from a pocket watch movement, but w...

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT May 17, 2018

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium

The story in a second: A funky and practical Hublot packed with style and substance. Launched early last year in Geneva, the Big Bang Unico GMT - which technically is a dual time zone watch and not a true GMT, as there’s no hand running on a 24-hour scale - is the first arrival in … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 5 incredible skills mastered in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts Time+Tide
Cartier s Maison des Métiers May 6, 2017

LIST: 5 incredible skills mastered in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts

Editor’s Note: Few brands can match the scope and scale of Cartier. The Parisian jewellery house offers everything from the popular and modern Juste un Clou collection through to some of the finest bespoke jewellery made. The same is true for their watch collections. Tanks and Ballon Bleus might be the order of the day, but … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 incredible skills mastered in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts

Owner of Rinascita Concepts, Dino lives and breathes quality – as you’ll see through his Instagram feed. Head over and you’ll find some of the finest custom accessories and haute horology that money can buy. NAME: Richard AKA ‘Dino’ OCCUPATION: Lover of gears on a large and small scale, and part-time creator of watch accessories. … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @alpagota Time+Tide
Ressence Mar 31, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @alpagota

When Gaëtan Gaye moved from Richemont’s Amsterdam office to Ressence in 2015, he doubled the size of the Antwerp-based team, which was quite the change in scale. What hasn’t changed, is his twin passions for watches and cars, as evidenced by his Instagram feed. NAME: Gaëtan Gaye OCCUPATION: International Brand Director for Ressence HANDLE: @alpagota FOLLOWERS: … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @alpagota appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BASEL BUILDUP: 5 days to go. The appeal of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001’s diamond dust is forever… Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001’s diamond Mar 15, 2017

BASEL BUILDUP: 5 days to go. The appeal of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001’s diamond dust is forever…

BASEL BUILDUP:  Seiko’s impact at Baselworld last year was measurable on the Richter scale. If it wasn’t the aftershocks of the Seiko Presage Chronograph 60th Anniversary Limited Edition it was watches like the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001. Hard model name to remember. Easy watch to be wooed by. The dial doesn’t quite sparkle in these pictures like it does … ContinuedThe post BASEL BUILDUP: 5 days to go. The appeal of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001’s diamond dust is forever… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: “TAG Heuer is #1 in confusion.” Explosive comments and a personal apology from Jean-Claude Biver Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jan 16, 2017

VIDEO: “TAG Heuer is #1 in confusion.” Explosive comments and a personal apology from Jean-Claude Biver

Watch industry Presidents and CEOs are often conservative to the point of invisibility. The adage that seems to be uniformly and universally extolled is a variation on the idea that it’s “Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt.” Then, at the other end of the scale there is Jean-Claude Biver, CEO … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: “TAG Heuer is #1 in confusion.” Explosive comments and a personal apology from Jean-Claude Biver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lewis Hamilton & Nico Rosberg Appointed New IWC Ambassador, A Closer Association with Mercedes AMG Petronas F1 Team. Revolution
Hamilton & Nico Rosberg Appointed May 26, 2013

Lewis Hamilton & Nico Rosberg Appointed New IWC Ambassador, A Closer Association with Mercedes AMG Petronas F1 Team.

The association between IWC and Mercedes AMG is almost a decade long,  but the scale and importance of the relationship weren’t obvious until the Mercedes AMG Petronas F1 team was made the official engineering partner of the famous Schaffhausen watch brand this year. For those who were mesmerised by the excitement of the amazingly lifelike […]

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Limited Editions (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II May 28, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Limited Editions (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Zenith introduces two new takes on its distinctive tonneau-shaped A384 chronograph, a modern revival of the model from the late sixties. The new Chronomaster Revival Liberty II is a sequel to the Chronomaster Revival Liberty from 2020, which paired a distinctive red and white striped chronograph seconds hand with a blue dial and white subdials. For the Revival Liberty II, two models are introduced: a stainless steel variant in a run of 250 pieces, and a forged carbon edition in 25 pieces. The theming, as you might guess from the name, focuses on the 250th anniversary of the United States in these US-exclusive editions. Both editions feature that red and white striped chronograph seconds hand (13 stripes for the original 13 colonies). These follow-ups to the original take the blue and white scheme and invert it, with this new dial featuring a white lacquered base with contrasting blue subdials and tachymeter. "250" on the tachymeter scale is highlighted in red in light of the anniversary. The forged carbon edition offers a much more contemporary look, with swirls of silver and black in the ultralight case, pushers, and crown, and paired with a blue textile-embossed rubber strap. The steel version comes with two strap options—a ladder bracelet in stainless steel, as well as a rubber strap for a bit of extra versatility. The case dimensions remain identical to all other A384 revival editions, with a 37mm diameter and 12.6mm thickness. The movement inside...

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo Saga Daybreak Apr 10, 2024

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...

Miniature Painter Andre Martinez Debuts His Own Brand SJX Watches
Aug 2, 2023

Miniature Painter Andre Martinez Debuts His Own Brand

This debut of Barcelona-born artist Andre Martinez shows the full skill and creativity he has at his fingertips. Perhaps one of the industry’s most prolific hidden talents, Mr Martinez has been the go-to artist for miniature painting in acrylic for some three decades. His clients over the years have ranged from Bovet to Van Cleef & Arpels. Martinez is now launching his own brand, starting with five watches, and the option of unique commissions.  Initial thoughts  Mr Martinez’s speciality of miniature painting in acrylic is often regarded as being lesser than enamel. That, however, is an unjust assessment because his very best work is outstanding with a level of artistry is not often seen. Painting with a single hair and microscope, Mr Martinez can produce (or reproduce) works of art with incredible detail – but on a very, very small scale. In fact, the artistry is of a level that is nearly unmatched across the rest of the industry. You would need to turn to the likes of Anita Porchet to equal it, but even she works in a different medium.  Having the luxury to customise the motif that appears on the dial is a great bonus, with no restriction on subject or composition. The only thing that will stay the same is the naturally occurring mother-of-pearl canvas. So in some ways, the appeal of the final result depends on the taste of the client. It is clear his work should be thought of as a piece of art first, and a watch second. While the quality of his painting is un...