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Does the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck 传承 offer the most hypnotising dial of the year? Time+Tide
Atelier Wen Nov 21, 2022

Does the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck 传承 offer the most hypnotising dial of the year?

After the wildly successful launch of Atelier Wen’s first batch of their handmade guilloché-dialled Perception, the brand is collaborating with Austen Chu of Wristcheck and @horoloupe fame. Cased in a grade 5 titanium case and sporting a gorgeous jade green dial, the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck edition carries the “传承” name, which stands for “New … ContinuedThe post Does the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck 传承 offer the most hypnotising dial of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer Time+Tide
Nov 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer

It’s easy for panda-dialled chronographs to be pigeonholed into a specific look, or to draw comparisons with other watches that have popularised the colour scheme. Brellum’s latest addition to their Pandial line completely sidesteps this issue with a fairly unique concept - retaining the iconic panda style within a completely blacked-out case and bracelet coated … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Doppel 38 SJX Watches
IWC three decades ago Now Nov 18, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Doppel 38

Habring² has scaled down its signature split-seconds chronograph to create the Doppel 38, which retains all of the key features of the original but in a more compact case. Still having the “bullhead” pusher layout that characterises the split-seconds chronographs of Habring², the Doppel 38 is smaller and thinner than its predecessor, but continues to be powered by the proprietary hand-wound A11R calibre. Initial thoughts Long one of the best values in terms of sub-US$10,000 chronographs, the Doppel is perhaps the archetypal Habring² watch since it’s descended from the complication Mr Habring invented at IWC three decades ago. Now vastly improved and refined by Mr Habring, the Doppel possibly the most accessible split-seconds chronograph on the market – in itself a major point of appeal. But the original Doppel was 42 mm, not massive but large enough to make someone who prefers smaller watches think twice. Personally I thought the larger Doppel was sized well for its particular type of complication, but the Doppel 38 is unexpectedly compact, especially at just 11.5 mm high. Beyond making it more wearable for more people, the new dimensions will no doubt give the Doppel 38 a slightly more retro feel, although the dial styles on offer are thoroughly modern. And it remains affordable as such things go, with a retail price of about US$7,900 before taxes. A value-proposition split-seconds Like many of the recent watches from the brand, the Doppel 38 is simple in sty...

Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there Nov 14, 2022

Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9

Evolution 9 was born to usher in a new era and tier of Grand Seiko watchmaking. It brought forth their most faceted case yet, with the most alternating hairline-brushed and Zaratsu distortion-free, mirror-polished surfaces. There were broader and sportier hands and indices, plus notably next-gen movements like the high-beat 9SA5 calibre. But while we have … ContinuedThe post Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection

For me, Minase are one of the few brands who can beat Grand Seiko in their level of artful dials, finishing quality and ingenuity. In addition, their originality extends to their case design as well. Add in their reasonably low prices, and this Japanese brand is probably one of the best value options out there … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Cartier Baignoire Allongée “Cortina Watch” SJX Watches
Cartier Baignoire Allongée “Cortina Watch” Nov 9, 2022

Hands-On: Cartier Baignoire Allongée “Cortina Watch”

Continuing with the series of limited editions for its 50th anniversary, Singapore retailer Cortina has just debuted a new take on one of Cartier’s most overlooked timepieces, the Baignoire Allongée MM “Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee Edition”. A limited edition of just ten watches, the new Baignoire Allongée retains the classic form, but with a subtle twist in the form of a “50” in Cortina’s corporate colour, while the case is tastefully set with diamonds. Initial thoughts Cartier has evidently realised a new generation of watch enthusiasts has discovered its classic shapes, explaining its frequent reissues and reinterpretations of famous models. The new Baignoire Allongée is classic Cartier, both in terms of form and design, as well as the discreet details that make it a limited edition. When I first saw this Baignoire Allongée, the first thing that came to mind was its elegant, timeless look. It could equally be a mid-century watch or even one from the 1920s. At the same time, as is often the case with Cartier’s form watches, one immediately notices how different it is from other bejewelled watches, which are often flashy and loud. Notably, the Baignoire Allongée Cortina retails for just under US$40,000, an eminently reasonable ask considering its diamond-set case as well as in-house movement. While it is expected that this limited model will immediately sell out, the Baignoire Allongée is unique enough that I hope it will return, particularly in a ...

Boldr Introduces the Venture Singularity in Ultra-Black SJX Watches
Seiko movement but Nov 8, 2022

Boldr Introduces the Venture Singularity in Ultra-Black

Founded by a group of watch enthusiasts from Singapore and Malaysia, Boldr Supply Co. first got off the ground on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter like many of its peers. Now best known for its affordable sports watches, the brand’s latest has a titanium case containing Seiko movement, but the highlight is something else, or more specifically, nothing else. The Venture Singularity has a dial of infinite blackness thanks to a coating of Musou Black, which absorbs 99.4% of incident light. Made by a Japanese company, Musou Black is similar to better known Vantablack in being blacker than black. Initial thoughts Boldr nails it again with another affordable and fun watch, but the Singularity stands out for its value proposition, one that’s arguably better than Boldr’s other offerings. As watches with ultra-black dial go, this has little competition – comparable watches usually cost much, much more. Boldr isn’t the first microbrand offering such a dial at a modest price but the Singularity is an unusually complete package with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, along with a useful 200 m water resistance. Granted, the Singularity still looks and feels like it price aside from the dial, but it is something novel amongst watches that are very accessible. Priced at US$445, the Singularity unsurprisingly sold out quickly when the first batch went on sale. But it’s not a limited edition and pre-orders for the second batch are now open with delivery starting in...

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Nov 1, 2022

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review

Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look  Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line.   A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67 Deployant
Oct 29, 2022

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67

The petite seconde configuration and flat case with stepped bezel is a stylistic homage to vintage timepieces. It echoes the era of fixed lugs monobloc cases that were once made from nickel plated brass. The spade hands and arabic numerals are flanked by a railroad minutes track which matches the classic look. While this may have to do with branding, a simpler logo without the large POLO font could have added more balance to the dial which favors the more subdued look. Otherwise, we welcome Polo Ralph Lauren's new Vintage 67 which acts as an avenue to initiate fashion lovers to the world of watchmaking, starting with the fine handwinding La Joux Perret movement. The watch is priced at US$2,700.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X5 Powered by Kenissi SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Oct 22, 2022

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X5 Powered by Kenissi

Historically reliant on ETA and Sellita, Bell & Ross is employing Kenissi movements for the first time in the BR-X5. Though evidently evolved from the BR05, the BR-X5 is endowed with a more complex, modular case. That, in addition to the high-spec Kenissi movement, means the BR-X5 is the new flagship sports watch for Bell & Ross (B&R;). Initial thoughts The BR-X5 is very much typical B&R; in terms of aesthetics with its squarish bezel secured by screws and legible dial. In fact, it is easy to mistake this for the BR05 at a distance, but up close it is clear that the BR-X5 is a big step up in terms of quality. The Kenissi movement certainly outperforms the ETA and Sellita calibres found in the BR05, while the case has a more complex construction that gives it more versatility in terms of materials. The BR-X5 is making its debut with a model entirely in steel as well as a fancier version in titanium and carbon that best illustrates the modular, layered construction of the case The improved case and movement, however, come at a price. The BR-X5 costs about 50% more than the equivalent BR05, a premium that is easily justified by the technical improvements. However, relative to the rest of the B&R; line-up the BR-X5 is pricey for a time-only watch, which means it will likely only make sense for those who appreciate and understand the tangible qualities of the watch over its less expensive siblings in the B&R; catalogue. Familiar design, new mechanics The centrepiece of the BR-X5 is...

Hublot Introduces Big Bang Unico Gourmet in Damasteel SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Big Bang Unico Oct 22, 2022

Hublot Introduces Big Bang Unico Gourmet in Damasteel

A watchmaker that endlessly experiments with new materials, Hublot has once again employed a novel alloy for its quintessential sports chronograph. Inspired by the brand’s celebrity-chef brand ambassadors who include Anne-Sophie Pic and Yannick Alléno, the Big Bang Unico Gourmet has a case of Damasteel, a striking, patterned steel that’s often used for high-end knives. Initial thoughts The Unico Gourmet is typical Hublot in how it employs a novel material for visual effect. For that reason it will surely appeal to existing fans of the brand who enjoy the Hublot aesthetic. But the case material is Damasteel – not generic Damascus steel but a proprietary alloy made with a patented process by a Swedish specialist. While the alloy has been used in watches before, it’s more often used for pricey custom knives. The unusual metal means the watch will appeal to nerds who appreciate materials technology. The watch happens to look good and also different from the average Hublot. The patterned steel echoes the aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, creating a coherent combination of textures. In other words, the material is perfect match for the Big Bang. In contrast, it’s easy to image that an ordinary round watch with conventional dial would have been overwhelmed by the intricate texture of Damasteel. Since the watch is already loud with its striking pattern, it has been wisely been scaled down to just 42 mm, which is small for a Big Bang. As a result, it will sit w...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera “Cortina Watch” with a Green Gemstone Dial SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 21, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera “Cortina Watch” with a Green Gemstone Dial

Singapore watch retailer Cortina continues with its roll-out of special watches to mark its golden jubilee. Following limited editions from Blancpain, Patek Philippe, and H. Moser & Cie. comes the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Cortina Watch. While it might sound like yet another vintage-inspired chronograph, the latest Carrera is unlike anything TAG Heuer has done before. Instead of the usual steel, the case is 18k yellow gold, while the dial is made of maw sit sit, a little-known green gemstone found only in the northern parts of Myanmar. And the hour markers and hands are of course 18k yellow gold to match. Initial thoughts The base-model Carrera powered by the in-house Heuer 02 calibre is an appealing watch to begin with, especially in steel where it’s an affordable proposition with a historical design. But it is primarily a practical, everyday watch, which is arguably what it should be given its history as a motorsports chronograph. The Cortina edition, however, is the opposite. It is pricey, very much so in fact, but it is special. Green is the fashionable colour in watchmaking now, so you might be forgiven for feeling weary when faced with yet another dial in the colour. But green dials certainly capture the zeitgeist of today, and perhaps personify the “hype” watch culture exemplified by the famous olive-dial sports watch. The new Carrera, in contrast, runs counter to that. It is definitely green, but the natural stone dial means it is a intrinsically v...

Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Oct 16, 2022

Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed

The combination of split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar has been a mainstay in Patek Philippe’s catalogue ever since the ref. 5004, but the brand’s latest take on the concept is unorthodox. The Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5373P-001 is described by Patek Philippe as designed for “left handers” and has its crown and pushers on the left side of the case. Essentially an inverted version of the ref. 5372P that’s now discontinued, the ref. 5373P is the first “destro” timepiece among the brand’s regular production offerings, but the movement is classic Patek Philippe. Like the earlier versions of the model, the ref. 5373P is powered by the CHR 27-525 PS Q, a gorgeous, refined, and extremely slim movement that’s amongst the thinnest split-seconds chronographs ever made. Initial thoughts The ref. 5373P is paradoxical. It’s not majorly different from its predecessor, in fact it’s just a rotated case and new dial, but the watch looks and feels entirely different from the ref. 5372P. The left-handed case sets it apart, as does the high-contrast livery. The black-and-red colour scheme seems mismatched to the elegant form of the watch – the case and movement are both impressively slim – but I can imagine this will have a strong appeal for someone seeking something different yet fundamentally classic Patek Philippe high horology. This clearly stands out in the catalogue, offering an alternative that is recognisably di...

Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches Time+Tide
Oct 13, 2022

Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches

At this rate it seems like we’ll end up with more vintage reissues in the world than actual vintage watches, if that’s not already the case. We started out with homages and vintage-inspired watches, then moved towards the meticulous and accurate recreations, before the current era of watches that look old no matter what vibrant … ContinuedThe post Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Tourbillon “Onyx” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Oct 5, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Tourbillon “Onyx”

Despite a rocky reception when Audemars Piguet debuted the line in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection is gaining traction, especially after several facelifts that bestowed smoked dials, two-tone cases, as well as open-worked movements on the line. Continuing the evolution – and improvement – is the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that combines white gold and black ceramic in a novel two-tone case. More striking is the unexpected simplicity of the dial, which is a polished expanse of onyx stone, resulting in the most striking version of the model to date. Initial thoughts Since the launch of the collection, most Code 11.59 model have been redesigned in a manner that is somewhat formulaic, though the results have been attractive. The makeovers usually involved brighter dial colours or new materials, like the recent Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that got an aventurine glass dial. In comparison, the latest redesign is a surprise that proves less is more. Stark and minimalist yet far from plain, the onyx dial easily sets the watch apart from its peers in the collection. It does that by streamlining the dial, even removing the Arabic numerals that are a signature element of the Code 11.59. Aside from the onyx dial, I also like the smart application of coloured accents. Though it is mainly in silver and black, it has just the right amount of rose gold details in just the right places to give it warmth and a bit of a vintage feel. And the black is also smartly utilised...

INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN Time+Tide
Mühle Glashütte Sep 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN

Mühle-Glashütte aren’t a brand that most people are very familiar with, but the German brand is always full of surprises at every turn. The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer is a staple of their tool watch collection, boasting seafaring capability alongside a sophisticated, retro-futuristic case shape. Now, after 20 years of its use by the German Maritime Search … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Sep 23, 2022

Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch

Just three months after it announced Jean-Claude Biver joining its board,  Norqain has unveiled its first product conceived in conjunction with the industry veteran best known for having created Hublot as we know it today, the Wild One. The Wild One is a lightweight sports watch with a case of a carbon composite known as Norteq and a laser-cut, patterned dial. It’s the culmination of a two-year project involving Norqain, synthetic rubber specialist Biwi, and more recently Mr Biver, who “[challenged] the team to innovate; to create a lightweight and shock-resistant timepiece that reflects the brand’s active DNA”. Initial thoughts Often found in expensive and exotic sports watches – although not an expensive material in itself – carbon composite cases are uncommon at the US$5,000 price point, thought they are becoming more common. Alongside models from Oris and Bell & Ross, this is amongst the few offerings in this price segment. And the Wild One has all the features of a bona fide sports watch, including water resistance of 200 m and of course a robust Kenissi movement. That said, the Wild One will also have the downside that is intrinsic to carbon composite – it is essentially a type of plastic and looks the part, resulting in a look that you either like or not. Notably, the liberal use of modern synthetic materials like carbon composite and rubber certainly evokes other products Mr Biver had a hand in creating. And so do the aesthetics; the patterned di...

INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial Sep 21, 2022

INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 was a controversial release, being one of the first times in recent decades that the brand had created something entirely new and non-sports oriented. Now that the dust has settled, the blend of industrial sci-fi in the case design and contemporary elegance on the dial has become an intriguing platform … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge Time+Tide
Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened Sep 20, 2022

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge

First released in 1962, the Rado DiaStar Original is one kooky watch design. Recognisable at a glance thanks to its striking, oval case, it exudes a retro-futuristic vibe – the sort of watch you can imagine George Jetson wearing in his flying car. But this quirky veneer disguises it’s horological significance.  The DiaStar is, in … ContinuedThe post For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Sep 11, 2022

Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar – Reprise

Oh, those Geneva auctions! While GaryG's intention is usually to browse the rare pieces on offer, gain an education from his auction-house friends and escape unscathed, it seems that more often than not there is a piece that puts him into bidding mode. And sometimes that piece is entirely unanticipated as was the case of the Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 triple calendar that he stumbled across at a Sotheby’s preview. Here is why he bought it.

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2022

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family

Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.