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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces May 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial

As has become tradition, TAG Heuer is launching a new Monaco chronograph to mark the annual Formula 1 race in the principality of the same name. While past editions for the Monaco Grand Prix leaned towards vintage in terms of style, the Monaco Skeleton Dial is almost entirely modern. Though the watch retains the trademark Monaco case and even many elements of the dial, it has no practically no dial, most of which has been removed to reveal the movement below. Initial thoughts Just like the recent Monza Flyback and Carrera “Glassbox”, the Monaco Skeleton Dial continues TAG Heuer’s pivot towards contemporary designs that its chief executive Frederic Arnault has indicated is the way forward. This is a good thing, because it allows the brand to move away from being reliant on the vintage-esque sports watches that are all too common in this price segment. The new Monaco itself manages to look very much like a Monaco while still being very different. Despite the seemingly opposite characteristics, everything works well together, although the look is certainly more appealing in the all-black iteration than its siblings. The only caveat is the price, which at about US$11,000 makes this a third more expensive than a Monaco with the same movement and case but a conventional dial. That feels like a bit too much for the open-worked dial, which admittedly required substantial reworking of the movement. Loosely vintage inspired The Monaco Skeleton Dial gets its name from, well, a...

De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces May 25, 2023

De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas

The latest version of De Bethune’s signature watch shrinks the case and ups the level of dial decoration. The DB28xs Starry Seas has a compact case of just 38.7 mm and an eye-catching dial finished a wave pattern and inlaid white gold stars in typical De Bethune style. Initial thoughts Originally a large watch with a case of 43 mm, the DB28 nonetheless became the brand’s trademark watch thanks to its distinctive styling and hinged lugs. So a more wearable version of the DB28 will certainly have is audience. In fact, the case of 38.7 mm is more than manageable, it is almost small by the standards of highly contemporary independent watchmaking.  With the reduced case, however, the DB28xs might have lost some of the presence that made the original DB28 interesting, although that will have to be judged in the metal. Besides the case, the other novel feature of the watch is the wave pattern on the dial that’s complemented by inlaid gold stars, which is meant to evoke the night sky reflected on water. The wave pattern is new for De Bethune, adding some originality to this variant of the DB28. While the dial is beautiful – De Bethune’s blued titanium dials usually are – and the case remains appealing even on a smaller scale, I would have hoped that the brand did something more inventive, rather than create variants of existing designs and movements.    Apart from the dial and case, the DB28xs is largely identical to its larger siblings, including utilising the same...

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back Time+Tide
May 22, 2023

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back

J.N. Shapiro introduces the first handmade mechanical watch “Made in America” since 1969 The Resurgence is a love letter to handmade watchmaking, offering a layered guilloché dial, engine-turned mid-case, and damaskeening on the bridges Options are plentiful, making each Resurgence unique to its owner Whenever we talk about the ultra-high end of horology, the discussion … ContinuedThe post The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence SJX Watches
May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence

Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 May 18, 2023

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 tames the beastly watch into a friendlier package. The case has been refined for comfort and accessibility. Its dial has also been simplified for a calmer appearance with no loss of spirit. The Hamilton brand has a long-standing history in supplying both militaries and Hollywood with task-specific watches, and … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical - Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse May 18, 2023

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical - Reprise

The Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse appears magical thanks to the apparent lack of any connection to the case while putting most of the mechanics on full display. It may be a time-only watch with no complications or tourbillons, but it is a most impressive accomplishment. Joshua Munchow explains the magic trick.

Seiko Debuts the Next Generation Astron GPS Solar with New Titanium Silhouette & Dial Textures Worn & Wound
Seiko Debuts May 16, 2023

Seiko Debuts the Next Generation Astron GPS Solar with New Titanium Silhouette & Dial Textures

Last year, Seiko celebrated their 10 year anniversary of the Astron GPS Solar collection by totally revamping its dial design with a dual time subdial configuration and constructing the case and integrated bracelet system out of titanium. The idea behind the refresh was to pave the way for a new generation of Astrons with a more fluid approach to how the watch is designed while still maintaining its signature features. To kick off this brand new decade of Astron GPS Solars, Seiko looks to continue its contemporary trend by debuting a series of watches sporting an off-center subdial design and angular case while keeping its bedrock solar GPS movement at its core. The cornerstone features of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar are its 3X and 5X series movements that are capable of automatically adjusting the time based on your current GPS coordinates. The new Seiko Astron GPS Solar in particular, houses their Caliber 3X62, equipped with 6 months of power reserve on a full charge, an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month and a host of other timing applications. As long as the dial is exposed to the sun, the Caliber 3X62 automatically connects to a GPS satellite twice a day to provide accurate time based on your current location. If for any reason the has not seen the light of day, a built-in smart application allows the Astron GPS Solar to remember the time of the last manual connection and attempts a following GPS connection. In ‘Power Save’ mode, which is enabled when the ...

New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model - but it is not limited! Time+Tide
May 16, 2023

New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model - but it is not limited!

The Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki” will be the last Calendrier I produced As an Anniversary model the watch is not a limited edition, it is time limited with all successful orders honoured The first Kurono dial to be made of phosphor-bronze, the case’s water-resistance is raised to 50m Cards on the table, I have … ContinuedThe post New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver honours a legendary pilot Time+Tide
May 16, 2023

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver honours a legendary pilot

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver pays tribute to the legendary life of Brian Shul. The dial features an SR-71 Blackbird, which Shul flew towards the end of his career. Three colour options across two case sizes offer versatile options. There are all kinds of watches that have stories, whether it’s a famous piece … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver honours a legendary pilot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches Ep. 49: The Sea-Chron Returns & Rowing Blazers Hits the Seiko 5 Worn & Wound
Zodiac May 14, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 49: The Sea-Chron Returns & Rowing Blazers Hits the Seiko 5

This week in watches sees the return of the classic Sea-Chron diving chronograph from Zodiac. The watch has come back in multiple handsome colorways with full personality on display and case to match. See more details on the Sea-Chron in our intro here, and keep an eye out for a full review coming soon. Elsewhere, Seiko revealed yet another collaborative collection done with Rowing Blazers, this time in Seiko 5 watches with 4 colorways that will have you set for summer. More about the new Seiko x Rowing Blazers right here. That wasn’t all from Seiko this week, who also revealed a new member of their Sharp Edge collection within the Presage family. This watch opens the dial to reveal a view to the new 6R5J 3 day automatic movement within. More details on that Seiko right here. There’s more news from MessanaLAB and their new Massena HOUSE concept, as well as a new Miami Pink IWC Pilot Chronograph, all in the full episode below. This week’s episode is brought to you by the new Hydrotimer watch from Jack Mason. This distinctively handsome diver measures 40mm in diameter and features a ceramic bezel, a boxed sapphire crystal, and a quick adjust system built right into the clasp. Jack Mason regulates and assembles the movement for the Hydrotimer in the USA. Learn more about the Hydrotimer from Jack Mason right here. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 49: The Sea-Chron Returns & Rowing Blazers Hits the Seiko 5 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Seiko Introduces the Astron GPS Solar, Redesigned and Sleeker SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces May 10, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Astron GPS Solar, Redesigned and Sleeker

Seiko debuted its first solar-powered GPS watch just over a decade ago and has since improved and iterated the model, ranging from an extravagant, 18k pink gold limited edition to the asymmetric Giugiaro Design. But most of the Astron GPS watches to date have resembled gadgets, with cases featuring lots of buttons and dials with numerous indicators. Now Seiko has cleaned up the dial design and streamlined the case to create the Astron GPS Solar, which sports an octagonal titanium case and matching integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Able to automatically set the time and time zone by syncing to GPS satellites, the Astron has always been an impressive piece of tech. But it has long looked like a piece of tech with its bulk case and fiddly interface. The limited edition SJJ017 The new Astron, however, looks like a wristwatch. With an integrated-bracelet and grid-like patterned dial, the new Astron ticks all the boxes in terms of the current fashionable in watch design. Granted, the design isn’t exactly original, but the sleek style and compact size mean the new Astron is more compelling offering than its predecessors.  And the new models cost only slightly more than prior versions, making them a no-brainer for anyone who appreciates the tech but wants a more sophisticated design. A familiar construction  The redesigned Astron is made up of elements that appear to be drawn from popular luxury-sports watches, most notably the octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Even...

A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open May 9, 2023

A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart

Two new variants, the SPB415 and SPB417 join the Seiko Sharp Edged Series The 6R5J movement debuts with 72 hours of power reserve New details can be found on the case finishing and the dial Seiko’s Presage collection is known for its versatility, offering everything from higher-end Masterpiece models to more affordable Cocktail Time timepieces. … ContinuedThe post A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver Time+Tide
Rolex May 8, 2023

Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver

Some of the most iconic models in the history of horology became so because they offered something unique. A new case design or a new concept, that was then transferred to new types of watches. Take Rolex for example. The brand developed the Submariner and then adapted the case and dial design to make a … ContinuedThe post Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Returns to Miami with Bright New Titanium Pilot Chronograph 41 Worn & Wound
Autodrome May 5, 2023

IWC Returns to Miami with Bright New Titanium Pilot Chronograph 41

Last year marked the inaugural Formula 1 race in Miami at the newly constructed International Autodrome, the second F1 race in the United States of the season before adding a third in Las Vegas this year (see our recap of the race experience right here). To celebrate the occasion, Mercedes team sponsor, IWC, released a Petronas-AMG themed Pilots Chronograph 41, featuring bright Petronas green dial accents, and a titanium case (see our live look at that watch right here). As we approach round 5 of the 2023 Formula 1 season, once again in Miami, IWC has returned to the Petronas Pilots Chronograph 41 with a bright new strap option befitting of the venue, and matching the special livery seen on the Mercedes cars for the race. The IWC Pilot Chronograph hasn’t always hit the right notes for our taste, but when it received a sized down 41mm case back in 2021, it started to make a lot more sense. Throw in the surprisingly excellent Tribute to 3705 and the watch really hit its stride. When it received a titanium case last year in Miami, the watch overcame one of its biggest downsides: its heft. The lightweight case made a huge difference (similar to the Ceratanium Tribute model), and remains a feature we’d like to see added to more regular production references of the watch. As it stands now, if you want the titanium case, you had better like bright colors as this Petronas green dial is the only way to get it. Thankfully, the Petronas green works well here, and while it’s cer...

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore Worn & Wound
Hamilton Enicar May 4, 2023

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor Starting this week off with a killer vintage diver, a Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor. This beauty is the classic 36mm dual crown type, with the same case style used by companies like Bulova, Hamilton, Enicar and Benrus to name a few. The Archimedes stands out from other Super Compressors with the bright orange dial. This example is in excellent condition with an unpolished case and flawless dial. The dual crowns are the oversized type, with the classic cross-hatched design on the ends. Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. You really can’t go wrong with these EPSA cased Super Compressor divers, and they are only getting more desired by collectors and harder to find in good shape. View auction here. Vintage Accutron Navigator Here’s a rare and unusual piece, a vintage 1967 Accutron Navigator Mark 2 ships chronometer. These were used as extremely accurate time keeping devices on ships to aid in navigation. Usually these are high grade manual clocks, but Accutron dipped their toes in the water (see what I did there? ;-)) with their tuning fork movements. I read that this clock used three tuning fork movements mounted at...

The RZE Endeavour Glacier collection breaks the ice in style Time+Tide
Seiko NH35 May 4, 2023

The RZE Endeavour Glacier collection breaks the ice in style

RZE’s best-selling case is now paired with four ice-cold dials. Each colour is inspired by a different glacial region. It’s powered by the Seiko NH35 and made of solid titanium. RZE’s offering of high-tech and capable sports watches is second to none in the microbrand world, especially when you consider their quality versus their affordability. … ContinuedThe post The RZE Endeavour Glacier collection breaks the ice in style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas” SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet May 4, 2023

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas”

Franck Muller’s latest venture into unorthodox case materials is a pair of watches with cases and dials in Damascus steel. Available only at the brand’s stores in Asia, the Vanguard “Damas” and “Damas Racing” retain the tonneau-shaped case of the brand’s bestseller but enhanced with the texture and depth of Damascus steel. Initial thoughts  The use of Damascus steel gives the Vanguard a new and appealing look. Because the model has been iterated numerous times, the Vanguard line is made up of an almost endless range of variants, but mostly in conventional metal alloys or carbon composite. The Damas models easily stand apart, making them instantly recognisable.   The case metal is particularly suited to the skeletonised Damas Racing – the open-worked dial contrasts against the graining of the Damascus steel, making it a perfect complement to the case material. And its open-worked numerals in Damascus steel are an especially pleasing detail. The Vanguard “Damas Racing” Both Damas models, however, are pricey relative to other Franck Muller offerings. The Vanguard “Damas” costs just over US$13,000 (and the open-worked model is almost double), making it twice as expensive as a comparable time-only Vanguard in a conventional steel case. That’s true even compared to the competition. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet, which features a similar case material, costs about the same as the open-worked Vanguard “Damas Racing”, but it’s a chronograph in...

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs Time+Tide
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers May 3, 2023

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs

The Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium brings lightness to the original Excalibur design A case-matching multi-link bracelet completes the monochrome design Equipped with a micro-rotor, the calibre RD720SQ is an utterly avant-garde take on a time-only movement You may be surprised to learn, as I was, that Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur collection is coming up on nearly two … ContinuedThe post The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Updates Sharp Edge Series With New 3 Day Automatic Movement Worn & Wound
Seiko Updates Sharp Edge Series May 2, 2023

Seiko Updates Sharp Edge Series With New 3 Day Automatic Movement

Seiko welcomed the Sharp Edge series back in 2020, and the watch has gone on to welcome some of our favorite Presage watches in the process, with last year’s GMT being a particular favorite. The broad, angular case with a distinctive fall off around the wrist is joined by the asanoha dial pattern to present a wholly unique experience within the Presage range. This week, Seiko welcomes a pair of new references to the Sharp Edge family, which open the dial to reveal a new 6R5J 3 day automatic movement within. The movement echoes the same updates we’ve seen rolled out across the 6R range, providing a small bump to the power reserve.  The new Sharp Edge watches are indeed what you’d call ‘open heart’ designs, with an aperture directly over the balance wheel placed to the 9 o’clock side of the hand stack. It’s not quite that straightforward here, as there is a bridge layered over the view that recalls the very pattern seen on the dial, the asanoha, or ‘hemp leaf’ motif is rendered across the circular opening, adding a bit of visual continuity with the rest of the dial and presenting a slightly more interesting take on the open heart concept. Two dial colors are on offer here: a light option called ​​shironeri (SBP415), which represents unbleached white silk; and a deep blue option called aitetsu (SPB417). The blue dial fades to darker tones at the dial’s perimeter, but both dials are rather dynamic thanks to the inset pattern offering plenty of surfaces...

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 1, 2023

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London

Having been the subject of chatter since the beginning of 2023, the F.P. Journe boutique in London is now official. Located at 33 Bruton Street, around the corner from Hermès in London’s upmarket Mayfair district, the store is slated to open in early summer. Although F.P. Journe has been in London almost since its founding in 1999, it was always represented by retailers. Now, as is the case in many other cities, F.P. Journe is bringing things in-house. The brand’s 11th boutique, the new London store joins its long-established outposts in Tokyo, Geneva, and Hong Kong, giving F.P. Journe a major presence in yet another key city. The upcoming boutique at 33 Bruton Street Given the mismatched supply and demand for F.P. Journe watches – it makes about 1,000 watches a year and enjoys demand many multiples of that – the business rationale of the new boutique might be hard to grasp, at least on its face. But given that Mr Journe has already spoken of consolidating his brand’s retail network around the world – word has it that even some boutiques might not be spared – it can be inferred that the London boutique will be receiving some of the inventory that would have otherwise gone to the soon-to-be-closed locations. According to industry insiders, the team for the new boutique has already been hired, with a respected industry veteran slated to take the helm of the store. Regardless of his or her talents, the boutique’s manager will likely need to be adept at managi...

The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT Time+Tide
Apr 30, 2023

The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT

The new Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk comes with a green-on-green colour scheme, a quick-set date, and a true GMT caliber  It has a compact case of 40mm made of lightweight titanium  The new Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk is limited to 1,000 pieces  GMT watches are becoming increasingly popular, and brands big and small … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rado Captain Cook gets an Aussie exclusive in green and gold Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook gets Apr 29, 2023

The Rado Captain Cook gets an Aussie exclusive in green and gold

Rado’s Australian exclusive edition of the Captain Cook is adorned in the Aussie green and gold colour scheme The yellow gold PVD is applied to a stainless-steel case and bracelet, although the clasp is made of titanium The green bezel is made from high-tech ceramic, and perfectly matches the green gradient dial Rado are a … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook gets an Aussie exclusive in green and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.