Hodinkee
Found: Five Star General Omar Bradley's Special Bulova Accutron
A five-star watch for the Fourth of July.
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Hodinkee
A five-star watch for the Fourth of July.
Fratello
One of the perks of my line of work is that I sometimes get to experience watches I wouldn’t have normally sought out. Nacho requested the Sinn 903 for himself to test but found his schedule overfilled with management responsibilities and handed the watch to me. So I strapped on the newly revamped Sinn 903 […] Visit Hands-On With The Revamped Sinn 903 St II In Black to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Ressence has gently tweaked its flagship model to create the Type 5 L. Already unconventional in its original form, the new Type 5 is similar in style and function to the original but with a fully luminous dial that maximises legibility in the dark. As is tradition for the brand’s higher-end offerings, the Type 5 L features an oil-filled case that enhances visibility of the dial by eliminating a common problem underwater: refraction. Initial thoughts Dive watches rarely deviate from orthodoxy, exemplified by the Rolex Submariner. But then there is Ressence, which is unorthodox across all its watches, but in a sensible and thoughtful manner. The Type 5 L underwater The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch, but looks nothing like a typical dive watch. Even though the planetary sub-dials take some getting used to, legibility is good once you’re familiar with the dial layout. And the addition of lume enhances visibility, making this a logical evolution of the model. As is often the case with most of the brand’s top-end offerings, the only downside is the price of CHF34,500. Granted, the Type 5 L is unique in construction and form, and also executed to a high level of quality – but it is still pricey. The entire dial of the timepiece is luminous for legibility in dim light Oil-filled dial In terms of dimensions and materials, the Type 5 L is identical to its less luminous counterpart. The case is titanium, measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm high....
Fratello
If you frequent social media, there’s a good chance that you’ve run across the Delugs rubber CTS straps recently. The brand is making a splash for the summer season and has released some new models and colors. Full disclosure: Delugs sent me a handful of straps for review. Specifically, I requested straps for my Ming […] Visit The Delugs Rubber CTS Straps On Ming And Tudor Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Customisation has fast become a watch industry standard, offering buyers a host of case materials, dial colours, strap options, etc… However, it’s not often that you come across a watch with four different faces, or rather, four different fonts for four revolving numerals on the dial. Designer and former watch restorer John Byrne’s Gyro Dial […]
Worn & Wound
If you’ve spent any time on the watch internet over the last few weeks, it should be no surprise that it’s dive watch season. Hardly a day goes by right now that some new dive watch doesn’t pop up on our radar, or come across our Instagram feeds. Now - with the release of the Type 5 L - Ressence has joined in, harnessing the sheer awesomeness of copious lume to make what may be the coolest version of their Type 5 diver yet. When the Ressence Type 5 was first released in 2015, it was unlike anything else on the market. With its bulbous architecture, oil-filled case, and signature Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) displaying the time, the Type 5 was about as fun as a watch could get. The Type 5 L pushes it even further and is a nice reminder that dive watch design doesn’t have to be static - there are still plenty of pages in the dive watch playbook to explore. On a technical level, the Type 5 L is exactly the watch we’ve seen over the last near-decade, but the technical side of things only tells part of the story. What sets the Type 5 L apart is its fully luminous dial. Without the glow, the Type 5 L looks awfully similar to the gray Type 5G from 2017. It shares the same 46mm wide, 15.5mm thick grade 5 titanium case; the same ETA 2824/2 calibre modified with a ROCS 5 module and magnetic transmission showing hours, minutes, and running seconds (plus oil temperature for good measure); and the same 100 meter water resistance. But it’s a whole other story ...
Monochrome
Following the appointment a few weeks ago of Nicolas Bos as the new CEO of the Richemont Group (replacing Jérôme Lambert), the luxury conglomerate once again announces changes in managing positions, with a new CEO for its jewellery/watchmaking brand Cartier. Effective 1st September 2024, Louis Ferla (ex-Vacheron Constantin) will take over Cyrille Vigneron as Chief […]
Worn & Wound
It’s been a slow few months in the watch industry. Not at all uncommon in the summer, and we haven’t even hit the real sleepy months yet, when most of Europe goes on holiday and American watch media is confronted with the reality that we’re working a beat that doesn’t really exist for a short period of time. But there was real news last week: Bloomberg reported that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault owns a (small) personal stake in the Richemont Group, his closest rival in the luxury goods space. Once the news broke, many began to speculate. Hey, it’s a slow summer – speculating is what keeps us awake. Could this be a sign that LVMH is positioning itself to buy the Richemont Group? Could that even happen? What’s the actual point of antitrust laws anyway? Bernard Arnault There’s no actual indication, of course, that Arnault wants to purchase Richemont. The holdings, according to Bloomberg, are part of a larger portfolio of Arnault family investments that include many publicly traded companies. No comment as of yet from Richemont or LVMH, although as many outlets are reporting, LVMH has a history of buying an interest in their rivals. We live in a world where insane wealth becomes more insane every year, so it’s not a huge mental leap to think that Bernard Arnault, who on any given day might be the world’s wealthiest man, could have eyes on getting even richer. Taking an ownership stake in Richemont would almost certainly do that. It likely already has – Ric...
Worn & Wound
You know the old philosophical question about the tree falling in the forest without anyone there to hear it? The new release from Hublot, a pair of Classic Fusions that make up the third installment of their “Essential Grey” collection, has me thinking of a similar question that could be aimed at the watch community: if a Hublot is reserved and muted, is it still a Hublot? Obviously, of course it is. But my personal interest in the brand is so geared toward their more experimental side, a release like this really flies under the radar. As a point of fact, however, the Essential Grey releases are a very big deal in the Hublot collector community, and this one ought to prove every bit as popular as the prior two. For the uninitiated, the Essential Grey watches in Hublot’s catalog are an annual release of a watch in a simple grey colorway, always sold through a single channel and always focusing on a single model. It only happens once a year, so it’s a drop that Hublot fans eagerly anticipate. Previous Essential Grey releases included versions of Big Bang Unico and Spirit of Big Bang. This year, Hublot steps away from the bombast of those watches, opting for a watch that is meant to remind collectors of the brand’s origins. The Classic Fusion is Hublot’s most straightforward watch, and the watch most closely in tune with the brand’s past. It’s a model that’s often used to explicitly connect the Hublot of the 1980s to the Hublot of today, as it did with ...
Fratello
You’ve seen the Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time before but never in a two-tone look. Since Watches and Wonders 2024, there’s the reference 5520RG, a very complicated and exclusive travel watch in rose and white gold. The colorway might sound very 1990s, but the sunburst dial is very en vogue. Do we start with the […] Visit Monday Morning With The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG - A Two-Tone Grand Complication to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Type A dial, Flieger-style pilot's watch has been something I've coveted since diving deep into the watch collecting hobby. If I'm not dreaming about some of the prohibitively priced stuff out there, I often think of some of the best affordable options if I were to make this kind of addition to the collection. A few names come to mind, but I've had a soft spot for Archimede since meeting them in San Francisco one year and photographing one of the coolest Archimede watches ever. As the in-house watch brand of the Ickler case company in Germany, Archimede produces some of the most well-crafted and affordable timepieces in this space while remaining family-owned. Today, we're looking at the Archimede Pilot 39, one of their most popular models, and a watch that I'm sad to say goodbye to after experiencing it on loan from Archimede.
Fratello
One of the most whimsical timepieces we saw at Watches and Wonders this year was the Hautlence Retrovision ’47. Presented as a pièce unique for the fair, this watch is far from your regular timepiece. The design takes direct inspiration from a late-1940s radio built by General Television & Radio Corp. from Chicago. It certainly […] Visit Hautlence Introduces The Production Version Of The Remarkable Retrovision ’47 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Over the 20-odd years that GaryG has been buying “serious” watches, he has purchased more pieces bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand name than any other, by far. Within the Jaeger-LeCoultre pantheon, one watch sub-group stands out for him: the Reverso. Between his wife and he, they've bought a total of seven Reverso models. Given that, why add another? In this instance, the Reverso Tribute to 1931?
Worn & Wound
The Hamilton Watch Company stands as a venerable name in horology, renowned not only for its timepieces, but also for its deep-rooted connection to military history. Established in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Hamilton quickly made its mark by producing pocket watches that were instrumental in both civilian and military spaces. During World War I, Hamilton became a primary supplier of timepieces to the U.S. Armed Forces, earning accolades for their reliability and design. This role continued into World War II, when Hamilton halted their production for civilian use in order to focus on supplying Allied forces with standard issue wrist watches – watches that became indispensable to soldiers and aviators alike. The company’s commitment to military excellence culminated in the creation of the iconic Hamilton Khaki Field line, a collection that pays homage to its heritage while meeting the demands of modern adventurers in its specifications. Inspired by the rugged timepieces worn by military personnel, the Khaki Field collection blends classic military aesthetics with contemporary functionality. The Khaki Field Expedition launched last year, and their 41mm and 37mm options highlight the brand’s move into inclusive sizing options. These watches are characterized by their durable stainless steel cases, legible dials, and the notable bidirectional compass bezel which allows its users to find their bearings using the sun. Their accessible price point also lends them to be...
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! Last week, we highlighted some of the best recent Audemars Piguet releases. This week, we do not focus on a brand but on a style of watch. It’s a style that Audemars Piguet is no stranger to, by the way. We have recently seen quite a few impressive perpetual calendar […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points to read the full article.
Fratello
A “gift for a man who has everything . . . even a sports car!” says the 1959 ad promoting the Benrus Competition, a watch personalized with one of eight car crests. Besides this Mercedes version, Porsche, MG, Jaguar, Triumph, Corvette, VW, and Thunderbird models were available. I admit that I saw this watch for […] Visit #TBT The Scarce Mercedes-Branded Competition By Benrus to read the full article.
Fratello
Hi there! Welcome to the latest episode of your favorite watch podcast, Fratello Talks. This week, Nacho is joined by Daan and Lex to run through some of their favorite recently released watches. Having not done one of these recaps for a while, we thought we’d look back to some of the latest introductions post […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Recently Released Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Sometimes the little moments inform our collecting more than the big ones. A big moment might be the first time Dad trusted you to wear his watch. While formative, there’d be a lot more two-tone bracelets on Instagram if those moments drove purchasing decisions. My “big moment” came on my seventh birthday. After weeks of begging for a digital watch, I opened a package to be greeted by black resin and the coolest digital screen I’d ever laid eyes on. The subsequent victory lap through the kitchen resulted in a trip to urgent care. Though I still have the scar to remember the watch that unleashed the horological nerd within me, my watchbox is currently void of a single digital watch. On the contrary, little moments are constantly influencing how I think about and consume watches. These are often as simple as offhand remarks I hear at a meetup or a comment I read on Reddit. One of these little moments came while I was listening to Rico’s Watches Podcast a couple years ago. A RedBar chapter head was the week’s guest, and he made some brief, unflattering remarks about Raymond Weil. Sharing a story of buyer’s remorse, he cited a lack of demand on the secondary market and a design language that was an amalgamation of other brands rather than something original. These quick quips stuck with me. As a newer collector, I’d already discerned that anything with “mall watch” vibes might not receive the nod of approval from my enthusiast peers. And, having personally ...
SJX Watches
The world’s most important watch trade show, Watches & Wonders, has just announced the dates for next year: April 1-7, 2025. Practically all major luxury watch brands present their latest wares at Watches & Wonder (W&W;), including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. The event also named additions to the board of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), the governing body of the event. Chanel, Hermès and LVMH join Rolex, Richemont, Patek Philippe, and Cartier on the board, giving representation to the biggest brands or groups showing at the event. Alongside the enlarged board, the WWGF appointed Cartier chief executive Cyrille Vigneron chairman of the board, taking over from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, who now becomes the organisation’s treasurer. Still a key man on the board, Jean-Frederic Dufour (second from left) Give and take The changes at WWGF reflect longstanding rivalry between the brands and groups that emerged when the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, better known as SIHH, evolved into W&W; after the demise of Baselworld. Previously dominated by Richemont and Cartier, SIHH transformed into an event that included giants like Rolex and LVMH. LVMH long believed it deserved a seat on the board, according to a senior executive of its watch division. It is possible that the elevation of Cartier’s boss to the chairmanship is a concession for the jewellery agreeing to the enlarged board. Interestingly, the two-year term of Mr Vign...
Fratello
It’s not the name of the watch that sparked off wild thoughts. No, it’s the watch’s look. The dial of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Di Rosa shows a 12-armed character named “Ah! Ah! Ah!” Hervé Di Rosa is a French artist who loves to travel the globe “in search of the mysteries of creation […] Visit Introducing: The Thought-Provoking Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Di Rosa to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
If you’re at all a Lange enthusiast like GaryG, you’ll likely understand the most compelling reason for buying the Odysseus is that it's an A. Lange & Söhne watch you can wear every day.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so grab a cup of coffee, and prepare for a showdown rooted in history. Most of you will know the story of Grand Seiko and King Seiko, which goes back over six decades. We decided to put two modern watches from them up against each other. Jorg picked the Grand Seiko SBGW305, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SBGW305 Vs. King Seiko SJE089 to read the full article.
Fratello
Two of the colorful new Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba watches are easy. One comes in yellow and the other one in orange. But the third one is a bit more puzzling. Is it pink? No, I think the right name for the color Hamilton so boldly decided to use is magenta, a purplish-red hue. You […] Visit Hands-On With A Trio Of Colorful Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
With a history that dates back to the founding of the Shokosha Watch Research Institute in 1918, Citizen Watch Co. was formally established in 1930 with the goal of creating high-quality yet accessible timepieces for the Japanese market. Headquartered in Nishitokyo, Tokyo, Japan, Citizen is one of the world’s largest and most vertically-integrated watch manufacturers. With a history that dates back to the founding of the Shokosha Watch Research Institute in 1918, Citizen Watch Co. was formally established in 1930 with the goal of creating high-quality yet accessible timepieces for the Japanese market. Headquartered in Nishitokyo, Tokyo, Japan, Citizen is one of the world’s largest and most vertically-integrated watch manufacturers. The post Just A Minute With The Citizen Series8 890 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm in 2020 as the smallest-sized option with mechanical movement. Since its debut, AP has expanded the range with several variations, ranging from simple stainless steel to diamond-covered pink gold versions. For 2024, Audemars Piguet added two new models to the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34mm series-one […]
Fratello
Forget, if you can, about the 38mm Luminor Due Luna with its mother-of-pearl dial. Instead, focus on the 49mm Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID. Is this massive PAM01800 with a case, case back, and bezel in blue Ti-Ceramitech the watch that will relight the fire in the hearts of a dormant group of Paneristi? It seems […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light? to read the full article.
Fratello
Every field has its lingo, and the watch world is no exception. As Fratello writers, we try to be aware of our use of language and the implications that come from our specific choice of words. Regardless, sometimes we are taken aback when certain terms unintentionally trigger strong reactions in readers. Recently, we noticed that […] Visit Is It Time To Revise The “Holy Trinity” Of Watchmaking? to read the full article.
Fratello
The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is perhaps Omega’s strongest contender for everyday luxury. In the realm once dominated by the Rolex OP, the Aqua Terra has become a go-to daily watch for the right reasons and can be quite the style chameleon. This time, the inspiration of Armand “Mondo” Deplantis and the Swedish national colors […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis to read the full article.
Fratello
It has not escaped your attention that the retail price for a new Omega Speedmaster Professional has recently increased. Omega drastically changed many things, not only under the hood (caliber 3861) but also with different exterior parts than before. A new case, dial, hands, and bracelet were been designed for the Moonwatch, making it aesthetically […] Visit Five Speedy Alternatives To The Current Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Seiko just unveiled two new additions to its range of (very) affordable sports watches, the Seiko 5 Sports SRPL03 and SRPL05. Following on the Seiko 5 Sports SNXS, the pair of limited-edition timepieces are more than just remakes of yet another Seiko 5; they are faithful re-issues of the Seiko 5 Sports ref. 5126-8090 “Kamen Rider”. The nickname comes from the fact that the watches were featured in the hit Japanese superhero television series also known as Masked Rider. The titular superhero wearing a beetle helmet sported the vintage original in the series that was first broadcast in 1971. Initial thoughts Vintage re-issues are commonplace to the point where the concept has become cliché. Seiko has been rolling out vintage-inspired timepieces across its sub-brands at every point of the price spectrum, but the outstanding price-quality ratio differentiates it from the competition. Priced at US$450, the new Seiko 5 Sports models demonstrate the outstanding value proposition. Moreover, they also have an interesting backstory with the Kamen Rider association that will resonate with people of a certain age. A hit from the 1970s to mid 1990s, the television show will probably evoke a sense of nostalgia for people who grew up during that period, which adds to the appeal of the watch. A superhero’s watch Modelled on the vintage original, the new Seiko 5 Sports features a cushion-shaped case that is 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm thick. It has all the ingredients of typica...
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