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All-New Parmigiani Tonda PF Collection: Elegant Simplicity, Even When Complicated Quill & Pad
Sep 13, 2021

All-New Parmigiani Tonda PF Collection: Elegant Simplicity, Even When Complicated

For its 25th anniversary, Parmigiani introduces the new Tonda PF, a collection consisting of four watches, three of which are offered in either stainless steel or pink gold with a fourth in platinum. The new Tonda PF might be best thought of as the more elegant sibling of the Tonda GT, sharing the same streamlined look, knurled bezel, and integrated bracelet but is differentiated by a much more understated appearance.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 4, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges

Invented in 1860, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is synonymous with Girard-Perregaux, a design unique and impressive enough it remains the watchmaker’s flagship movement after some one and a half centuries. Since its modern-day revival in 1981, the triple-bridge tourbillon has evolved to keep up with contemporary tastes, leading to variants like the Neo Bridges, which has sleek, arched bridges. Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the latest form of the Three Bridges, which does away with the base plate altogether, resulting in a floating, see-through movement. Now the brand has finally unveiled the luxe version of the watch, made even more striking in pink gold and black –  the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. Initial thoughts My opinion of the most recent iterations of the Three Bridges have been lukewarm, as I find the reworked designs tend to blur the original identity of the movement – the designs attempt modernity but don’t quite make it – but latest version changed my mind. The Flying Bridges is clean and streamlined, creating in a magnificent, unobscured view of its mechanics, one that’s enhanced with the right choice of colour and architecture. And the Flying Bridges is an interesting watch from a technical standpoint. The parts that make up the timekeeping train – barrel, gear train, and tourbillon-regulator – are arranged linearly and vertically, as the historical Three Bridges was. But now they supported by three horizon...

Bet on black with the Bulgari Bulgari ref. 103540 for Father’s Day Time+Tide
Bulgari Bulgari ref 103540 Sep 2, 2021

Bet on black with the Bulgari Bulgari ref. 103540 for Father’s Day

Forget the ties, the socks and all those “gifts” you had lined up for this coming Father’s Day (which is this Sunday in Australia). Bulgari is mixing things up a bit by way of their newly released Father’s Day Gift Guide (which can be found here). Highlighted in the guide is a mixture of jewellery … ContinuedThe post Bet on black with the Bulgari Bulgari ref. 103540 for Father’s Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection SJX Watches
Breguet inspired Aug 30, 2021

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection

When I spoke with Parmigiani chief executive Guido Terreni earlier this year, he described his plans for the brand’s product as having a “new direction for design, which is less ostentatious”, adding that Parmigiani will ” go back to the craft and excellence of the early days… with an eye on the world of today.” With the new Tonda PF collection launched to mark Parmigiani’s 25th anniversary, Mr Terreni appears to have pulled it off. Made up of four watches – ranging from a time-only to a pricey split-seconds – the Tonda PF is a synthesis of Parmigiani’s recent integrated-bracelet sports watch and its earlier Toric timepieces that were classical and Breguet inspired. The result is a sleek case and integrated bracelet matched with a refined yet minimalist guilloche dial featuring solid-gold hands and indices. Initial thoughts In a review two months ago, I wrote that liked the Tonda GT sports watch, though I thought the dial could be done better in several ways. The new Tonda PF does exactly that. It keeps everything that was good with the Tonda GT and enhances the rest. The dial has been stripped of superfluous elements while gaining a barleycorn engine turning. In fact, the dial is almost Moser-ish in its restraint, with the only marking being a small “PF” logo, which is made of solid 18k gold. And the upgrades in materials continue with the case, with all the steel model getting a knurled platinum bezel. And the movements have been enhanced. The...

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made from recycled plastic Time+Tide
Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made Aug 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made from recycled plastic

According to UN Environment, every year as many as 13 million tonnes of plastic leak into the oceans – which is the equivalent of a truck-load every minute. With only 9% of all plastic produced thought to have been recycled, and various aquatic animals suffering dearly as a result, there is a clear need for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made from recycled plastic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Aug 30, 2021

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium

The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...

Bernhard Lederer Introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
Aug 27, 2021

Bernhard Lederer Introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer

After Bernhard Lederer unveiled his impressive double-wheel escapement wristwatch last year, it was radio silence until now. As it turns out, Mr Lederer was working on refining the Central Impulse Chronometer, which is now being launched in its final, serial-production form. The new watch is essentially the same watch, but with a new and improved dial. The movement remains the same: equipped with a double-wheel escapement featuring twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism – making it one of the serious chronometers in modern horology. Entirely revised is the dial, which now has more elegant design, with slim hour markers framing a chequerboard guilloche centre. And the dial now incorporates gains a symmetrical, figure-of-eight aperture that showcases the twin escapements and remontoirs, with each having its own seconds hand – both turning in the opposite direction. Initial thoughts The CIC is one of the relatively rare wristwatches to incorporate a double-wheel escapement. But what makes the CIC uncommon is its execution – its escapement is powered by twin individual going trains – a construction famously conceived by George Daniels for his pocket watches, most notably the Space Traveller’s Watch. Bernhard Lederer at his bench The degree of miniaturisation to fit such a construction into a watch puts the CIC amongst an exclusive class of timepieces that can be counted on one hand – made by George Daniels, Derek ...

‘The Persistence Of Memory’: Online Museum And Ode To Independent Watchmaking Quill & Pad
Aug 20, 2021

‘The Persistence Of Memory’: Online Museum And Ode To Independent Watchmaking

The “great lockdown of 2020” gifted us with something outstanding: from the depths of an anxiety-inducing existence arose an online exhibition called “The Persistence of Memory,” which can be described as an !online museum" honoring some of the most influential and important independent watchmakers of the modern era. Here Elizabeth Doerr speaks with its creator Michael Tay for an inside view on what this "exhibition" surveying 50 years of independent watchmaking is. And what it isn't.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic Aug 16, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation

The Big Bang range of watches isn’t just about what consumers want, it’s also Hublot’s love letter to watchmaking. Whether it’s a new material, movement, or even digital technology, the Big Bang is a platform from which Hublot can experiment incrementally, and the Big Bang Integral is the latest variant to be given a full … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Vintage Art-Deco Gems by Vacheron Constantin in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Aug 10, 2021

Exhibition: Vintage Art-Deco Gems by Vacheron Constantin in Singapore

“Classic with a Twist” is the year’s theme for Vacheron Constantin. The “twist” is obvious in several of the brand’s new releases, including the 1921 Collection Excellence Platine and Égérie for ladies, which were launched at the virtual watch fair Watches & Wonders. Interestingly, the launch also provided a glimpse of a few equally quirky watches from Vacheron Constantin’s vast archive. Now those historical gems have been transformed from virtual to tangible with an exhibition in Singapore that delves into the form watches that Vacheron Constantin produced in the early- to mid-20th century. Intriguing, unorthodox, and pretty, the dozen or so watches are on show from now until August 26 2021. Here’s a roundup of highlights from the Singapore exhibition. Show and service The Singapore event is one of several Classic with a Twist exhibitions taking place around the world over the year. Another is happening simultaneously in Vacheron Constantin’s recently-opened boutique in New York City, where it’ll run until November 2021. But unique to the Singapore event is a complimentary servicing for any American 1921, the distinctive wristwatch that’s celebrating its centenary this year – Vacheron Constantin even created a near-exact replica created with vintage parts for the occasion. The overhaul offer is open to any American 1921 wristwatch owned locally, including examples with expired warranties. The ref. 11677 from 1921 that serves as the inspira...

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon: Clean Design, Subtle Finishing, And Exquisite Restraint Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Aug 8, 2021

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon: Clean Design, Subtle Finishing, And Exquisite Restraint

The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon is a more complicated version of the original Grande Seconde Skelet-One in which an inverted dial and streamlined skeleton architecture made for an impressive watch. This even more impressive version has also spawned a one-off piece for the 2021 Only Watch charity auction beautified by artistic plique-à-jour enamel.

Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream

Unlike my erudite and learned colleagues on this website, those who have read this column in the past will know my horological lusts aren’t governed by the usual parameters.  Which is my way of saying that a bargain is where I’m at. To paraphrase the great Billy Connolly: “My dad was so tight he’d wake … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Heritage Perpetual Calendar in Blue Enamel SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jul 21, 2021

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Heritage Perpetual Calendar in Blue Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. is quietly marking the 15th anniversary of its flagship complication with the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. It was, in fact, this very simple and smart perpetual calendar that helped put the brand on the map when it was revived in 2005 (while the original brand was established in 1828). Like the commemorative edition made for its 10th anniversary – which was essentially a fancy pocket watch with a strap – the new perpetual calendar is a departure from the brand’s typical design and instead relies on more classical flourishes, most notably an enamelled dial and case band. But true to the brand’s inclinations, the design remains relatively clean, largely to the concise calendar display. A subtle perpetual calendar Initial thoughts Moser’s perpetual calendar has long been applauded – for good reason. For one, the display is an elegant alternative to the typical, in-your-face layout made up of multiple sub-dials. Despite being less, the Moser perpetual manages to do more, being eminently legible. And the calendar is also convenient in a tactile sense – it can be set forwards as well as backwards. But being introduced 15 years ago, the complication is now familiar, familiar enough that it might be forgotten. The presentation then becomes important. And here the new edition is successful. Being part of the Heritage collection, the new model is quite different the brand’s usual offerings, like the Pioneer and Endeavour. In...

You told us about the watches you bought and sold, then bought again (and again…) Time+Tide
Jul 19, 2021

You told us about the watches you bought and sold, then bought again (and again…)

On the poster for the classic rom-com Groundhog Day, Bill Murray is depicted pointing at a clock.  This, of course, is to signify the film’s basic premise in which (spoiler alert) the central character finds himself stuck living the same day over and over again. But after hearing from the Time+Tide community about the watches … ContinuedThe post You told us about the watches you bought and sold, then bought again (and again…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Let’s go to work: The best watches for every job from white collar to tech Time+Tide
Jul 14, 2021

Let’s go to work: The best watches for every job from white collar to tech

Whether you’re keeping a close eye on the stockmarkets, laying girders at a construction site or swapping stacks in a server room, your love for watches (which I’m just going to assume because, well, you’re reading this) means you’ll want a timepiece on your wrist. And not just any timepiece; you’ll want something that both … ContinuedThe post Let’s go to work: The best watches for every job from white collar to tech appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers’ Online Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Jul 6, 2021

Highlights: Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers’ Online Auction

Sotheby’s latest online sale is in a quirky combination of luxury watches and high-end sneakers – some of which cost more than the watches. Fortunately the large majority of the 164 lots are horological, with a selection of watches that’s diverse and interesting, led by a couple of heavyweight top lots. The heavyweights are quite literal, both complicated watches in platinum from brands widely regarded as benchmarks in contemporary watchmaking: an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with a platinum case and bracelet, along with the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous “Phantom”. The sale also includes more esoteric watches that might be overlooked, including as a retailer-edition Patek Philippe Calatrava with ruby markers, and a Grand Seiko “First” remake in platinum. The Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers auction is live online from now until June 8, 2021. The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available here. Lot 8201 – F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Platinum Introduced in 2004, the F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain was the successor to the original Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. Like the original, the Tourbillon Souverain combined both a tourbillon regulator and constant force mechanism in a quest for accuracy. Its most obvious distinction against its predecessor was the small seconds at six linked to the remontoir mechanism. The Tourbillon Souverain itself was replaced in 2019 by something bigger and vertical, making it increasingly uncomm...

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 30, 2021

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On – Reprise

Late in 2015 the news came through that A.H.C.I. co-founder Svend Andersen had sold his company. But how did Andersen get here? Let's take a quick tour of more than half a century's worth of independent horology the Danish way to find out, which includes an extravaganza of worldtimers, unusual erotic watches, and even poker-playing dogs.

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Revolution
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Jun 29, 2021

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Wei Koh gives his initial takes on the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, which takes its lead from the first iteration of the Bronze watch, with a brown dial and bezel insert. He walks us through the creation process of the bronze-aluminium alloy they use, also demonstrating the new clasp on the bracelet called T-Fit, which allows the wearer to alter the length by 8mm quickly and without the need for any tools.

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Original Revealed WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Original Revealed Let’s Jun 29, 2021

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Original Revealed

Let’s rewind a little, back to 2019. Zenith was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the El Primero and presented a box of 3 watches limited to 50 sets. Included in the set was the highly sought after A386 re-edition in steel. The only way to get your hands on this piece was to buy the box set, which came with a fourth slot for a forth-coming “1/1000th of a second” chronograph, to be released at a later time. Yes there were other A386 anniversary editions that can be had separately, but they came in precious metal. What people wanted was the steel A386. Zenith kept teasing the market with various versions of it, but not the exact iconic version that was released in 1969, as one of the first to house this ground-breaking chronograph movement.  Then in 2020, the Manufacture edition dropped, with a prototype dial that was found in a little box up in the attic where Charles Vermot hid the tools, parts, and plans to build the El Primero back in 1975. The idea was that you could only purchase the Manufacture edition when you visit the Zenith Manufacture. Sort of like a gift shop purchase at the end of the tour. It would be extremely difficult to come by as you’d have to have made the trip to Switzerland to pick one up.  Look, we gotta give it up to the product designers and planners. hats off to Romain Marietta, who probably has one of the best jobs in the industry. This was a superb idea. This guaranteed exclusivity and collectability. But then we all knew what happene...

Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch SJX Watches
Jun 24, 2021

Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch

Anton Suhanov is best known for impressive desk clocks – the most recent of which features a triple-axis tourbillon within a metallic flower – but he has just unveiled his first timekeeper for the wrist. Inspired by automotive gauges, the Racer Jumping Hour GMT is an inventive take on the dual time zone wristwatch and boasts a double retrograde display along with a jumping hour. Initial thoughts His talents were already evident in his desk clocks, but Mr Suhanov now proves he can be equally imaginative with wristwatches. He once worked in Konstantin Chaykin’s workshop, which perhaps contributed to the novel design. Automotive-inspired watches rarely capture the style of a dashboard without looking silly, but the Racer manages to do so successfully. The design instantly evokes the dashboard of a vintage automobile thanks to several clever design elements, including the tiny canopies over each retrograde display as well as the arched guilloche and tiny jump hour winds that gives the dial a sense of perspective. The Racer is more complex than it looks – the time-display module has as many parts as an entire chronograph movement – although the base movement is a tried and true, but no-frills ETA 2824. Still, with a price of a bit over US$17,000, the Racer offers good value given the original design and mechanical complexity, most of which is accomplished in-house by Mr Suhanov. Inventive design and mechanics The slightly retro dial indicates the hours and minutes o...