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Christopher Ward Mixes Blue and Bronze in their Latest C60 Pro 300 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Mixes Blue Jun 13, 2024

Christopher Ward Mixes Blue and Bronze in their Latest C60 Pro 300

Christopher Ward is introducing a new variant in their popular Trident Bronze collection - this time with a deep blue ombré dial. The C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombré builds on the long evolution of the Trident collection, and serves as an excellent reminder both of Christopher Ward’s mastery over bronze, and comes just in time for the height of summer.  The new C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombré reinvents last year’s C60 Pro 300 Bronze, replacing that model’s brown ombré dial and bezel with a mesmerizing deep blue, while otherwise retaining all the signature details that have helped set Christopher Ward apart from the pack. We’ve been talking a lot about what makes for a good summer watch recently, and there is no denying that this latest release from Christopher Ward throws a mighty wrench in that conversation, offering a tempting and handsome new entry into this year’s summer watch race. Christopher Ward has long been known for their dive watches, and - over the years - bronze has increasingly become a core material for the British brand. The C60 Pro 300 combines the two in a 42mm light-catcher case, here produced in CuSn6 bronze, a super-strong, copper-heavy bronze alloy that is well known for its deep color and ability to take a patina. If you love a deep patina with plenty of greens and an intense color, CuSn6 is the way to go. Bronze has long been a core material over at Christopher Ward, and this watch is an excellent reminder as to why. The Blue Ombr...

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review Jun 13, 2024

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review

There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...

#TBT The Unusual Waterproof Case Patented By Bulova In The Late 1950s Fratello
Bulova Jun 13, 2024

#TBT The Unusual Waterproof Case Patented By Bulova In The Late 1950s

It has been maybe six years since I picked up this tiny Bulova on a business trip to Budapest. After finishing my meetings, on my way to the train station, I stopped at my favorite vintage watch shop. As I always do, I asked for something unusual… The owner picked up a black-dial Bulova, which […] Visit #TBT The Unusual Waterproof Case Patented By Bulova In The Late 1950s to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Heritage Design Re-Creation Limited Editions Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports Heritage Design Jun 13, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Heritage Design Re-Creation Limited Editions

For fans of vintage Seiko, today’s new release will be pleasing. The Seiko 5 Sports Heritage Design Re-creation Limited Edition, aside from being a mouthful, is a pair of fantastic watches. These pieces use a case design firmly rooted in the late ’60s. That’s exciting because Seiko has created another new case and is pushing […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Heritage Design Re-Creation Limited Editions to read the full article.

Citizen Dive Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Dive Watches Guide Citizen Jun 11, 2024

Citizen Dive Watches Guide

Citizen Watch Co. of Japan has been making watches for 100 years, and a glance at the brand’s current portfolio reveals that quite a few of those watches are dive watches. It’s not surprising, since Citizen has been in the business of supplying watches for divers since the early 1980s, and has been extending the variety of styles, functionalities, and even movement types available in the various collections ever since. So how do you decide on whether you want your first (or next) Citizen dive watch to be an Eco-Drive or an automatic? An everyday-wear Fugu, a multipurpose Aqualand, or a deep-diving Eco-Zilla? Our comprehensive guide is here to help you, with a brief history of Citizen dive watches and a rundown of all the styles available today. Swiss watchmakers began embracing purpose-built, water-resistant divers’ watches in the early 1950s, while their contemporaries in Japan came aboard a decade or so later. As many history-minded watch enthusiasts are aware, it was Citizen’s competitor, Seiko, that released the first Japanese-made divers’ watch, in 1965. However, Citizen’s Parawater, regarded as the first “water-resistant” Japanese watch, preceded it to market six years earlier, in 1959. The Parawater watches (as above) were waterproof to 50 meters of depth, an impressive feat for the era, and they were the forerunners of Citizen’s contemporary line of dive watches, which began in the 1960s but really kicked into gear with the release of the Promast...

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Série-R Tangerine Chronograph Automatic Fratello
Jun 11, 2024

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Série-R Tangerine Chronograph Automatic

The French brand Depancel has captured the hearts of people who love classic racing-style chronographs. The colorful and diverse racing chronographs of the 1960s and ’70s continue to offer plenty of inspiration for Depancel’s new models. With the new Série-R Tangerine Chronograph Automatic, the brand once again looks to the greats from the past while […] Visit Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Série-R Tangerine Chronograph Automatic to read the full article.

Our Favorite Summer Watches Worn & Wound
Jun 10, 2024

Our Favorite Summer Watches

Every year, the conversation begins anew. As the weather gets warmer, watch enthusiasts reach for the “summer watch.” But what is a summer watch, anyway? Can a watch have an inherent seasonality? If there are summer watches, are there also winter watches, or autumn watches? These are the existential questions that keep watch collectors up at night, frankly. While we might not have all the answers, we do have picks for our favorite summer watches, however we choose to define the term.  Our editorial team weighs in on their favorite summer watches below, but we want to hear from you. What are you wearing this summer? Is it any different from what you wear at any other time of year? And how do you define a summer watch anyway? Let us know in the comments. Zach Weiss  Despite being a June baby, I hate the summer. It’s too hot, especially in NYC in August when the humidity really kicks in. The pavement radiates heat back up at you, and everything that never smelled good to begin with is much more potent. Let me tell you, the subways are worse than they’ve been at any point in my lifetime. I also walk a lot. I walk a few miles to the office and then home again in the evening, so comfort and sweat are on my mind.  Because of this, I don’t think about my watches in terms of the season but rather straps, as they can make all the difference on a humid 90-degree day, which, for me, really means mil-straps. I don’t want to ruin my leather straps with sweat. I find brace...

Introducing - The Hublot Big Bang Unico All Black Schloss Schauenstein Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Unico All Jun 10, 2024

Introducing - The Hublot Big Bang Unico All Black Schloss Schauenstein

Like watchmaking, gastronomy demands extreme precision and excellence. Both Haute Horlogerie and Haute Cuisine aim to evoke emotions through their craft. Unsurprisingly, many of the world’s best chefs have become ambassadors for some of the most prestigious watch brands. Hublot counts Yannick Alléno, Anne-Sophie Pic, Clare Smyth, and Andreas Caminada among its ambassadors. Caminada, awarded […]

18 Roman Numeral-Dial Watches From Under $500 to $40,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Jun 6, 2024

18 Roman Numeral-Dial Watches From Under $500 to $40,000

In an era when the line between what is a sports watch and what is a dress watch have been blurred substantially, the presence of Roman numerals on your watch’s dial is one of the last reliable hallmarks that identify it as a timepiece meant for dressing up, not down; a watch designed with classical elegance in mind more so than robustness or even optimum legibility. Of course, Roman numerals in general are rarely encountered in most people’s modern lives, the annual naming and marketing of Super Bowls being the rare exception. Thus, watches with Roman-numeral dials are relatively rare in the horological wild as well, albeit still occupying an appealing niche embraced by many watch manufacturers as well as by an avid core of enthusiasts. Here, we’ve tracked down 18 that are on the market in 2024; as per our usual format, they’re spotlighted in ascending order of price and represent a wide range of price points. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $410, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, offers simple three-handed options and a handful of “quiet” complications, like th...

First Look - Seiko Adds Two Colours to its Marinemaster Line, with the SJE117 & SJE119 Monochrome
Seiko Adds Two Colours Jun 6, 2024

First Look - Seiko Adds Two Colours to its Marinemaster Line, with the SJE117 & SJE119

A true household name for Seiko enthusiasts, the Marinemaster has long been synonymous with the higher-end, professional-oriented dive watch of the brand. First released in 1999, the Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 (and subsequent variations) became one of the most emblematic divers of Japan, only to be discontinued a few years ago. Last year, Seiko brought back […]

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko KS1969 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 6, 2024

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko KS1969

After officially reviving the King Seiko brand in 2022, Seiko has introduced a new range of King Seiko models inspired by the vintage original from 1969. The King Seiko KS1969 features a stainless steel “C-shaped” case that’s a thin 9.9 mm high, along with a matching retro-style bracelet. It is available in four colourways, including grained purple and baby blue. Initial thoughts The standout feature of the KS1969 is its C-shaped case, directly inspired by that of the King Seiko 45KCM that debuted in, you guessed it, 1969. The model will be available in a variety of dial colours, including green and a striking “Edo purple”. Colours aside, the dials are straightforward, featuring applied markers and a date window at three o’clock. Judging by the press images, the font used for the date wheel is a close match to that of the original 45KCM, which is a thoughtful touch. Attention to detail was also paid to the date wheels that are catered to the dial colour: dark for the purple and green dials, while the blue and silver dials have white wheels. The slim, 39.4 mm case is paired with a multi-link bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links. The design is vintage inspired and evokes the popular “beads of rice” style. It has a somewhat generic “vintage” style, but the short links mean smaller-scale adjustability, enabling a good fit on most wrists. Inside the case is the cal. 6L35. Though considered accurate and reliable, the movement lacks the technic...

Introducing the MT-G Diffuse Nebula, the Latest Colorful Creation from G-SHOCK Worn & Wound
Casio s own nursery comes Jun 5, 2024

Introducing the MT-G Diffuse Nebula, the Latest Colorful Creation from G-SHOCK

According to NASA, a nebula is a giant cloud of dust and gas in space. Some nebulae come from the gas and dust thrown out by the explosion of a dying star, such as a supernova. Other nebulae are regions where new stars are beginning to form. For this reason, some nebulae are called “star nurseries”, and from Casio’s own nursery comes a brand-new MT-G model inspired by this very phenomenon. The Diffuse Nebula MTGB3000DN1A is their latest high end creation, combining metal materials with resin in a colorful package with all the durability you would expect in any G-SHOCK. The Diffuse Nebula MT-G displays a mesmerizing array of colors. From the intense blue and purple of the ion-plated stainless-steel bezel and multi-colored dial components, to the striking rose gold crown and screws. The attention to detail extends beyond the case, as the soft urethane band is a mixed color rather than a single tone, and the buckle and keeper are both purple IP coated.  But this watch is not just about looks – it’s still very much a G-SHOCK. It features a Dual Core Guard structure that protects its module in a carbon fiber reinforced shell and encloses the exterior in metal components. In this structure, the case back incorporates integrated lugs, securing the band and guarding the crown and buttons found along the case flank. All of this helps reduce the overall thickness and achieves a more compact, slimmer profile, which measures a svelte 12.1mm from the bottom of the case back ...

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Father’s Day Gift Guide Worn & Wound
Seiko SNE039 as Jun 5, 2024

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Father’s Day Gift Guide

When it comes to watch collecting, sentimentality is king. Rarity, value retention, and specifications all matter, but it’s often the watch that was either given as a gift or passed down that stands the test of time. (Such is the case with yours truly, who received a Seiko SNE039 as a gift from his granddad ten years ago, which has kicked off a passion culminating in writing what you are reading at this very moment.) So as Father’s Day approaches and our DADS AND GRADS SALE is live, we thought we’d put together a gift guide for the dad, grandad, or father figure in your life. From durable watches and clocks and gear, to slick storage options, these should provide a great starting point and inspiration. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When it comes to watch collecting, sentimentality is king. Rarity, value retention, and specifications all matter, but it’s often the watch that was either given as a gift or passed down that stands the test of time. (Such is the case with yours truly, who received a Seiko SNE039 as a gift from his granddad ten years ago, which has kicked off a passion culminating in writing what you are reading at this very moment.) So as Father’s Day approaches and our DADS AND GRADS SALE is live, we thought we’d put together a gift guide for the dad, grandad, or father figure in your lif...

Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot Fratello
Longines Jun 5, 2024

Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot

At Fratello, we focus on watches, and 99.9% of the time, that means ones for the wrist. However, it’s interesting that the wristwatch is still in its relative infancy. It was the pocket watch that loomed large in prior centuries. Today, we’ll look at two gems from the twilight of the pocket watch era. These […] Visit Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot to read the full article.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Jun 5, 2024

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

For Tudor, 2024 was a year of safe bets, with the only completely new model family, the Black Bay 58 GMT, being an almost guaranteed success from the get-go. Overtly referencing sought-after vintage GMT Master models from sister brand Rolex, the BB58 GMT further solidifies Tudor’s dominant position in its category. While the big story last year was Tudor’s move out of its parents’ basement and into its own manufacture in Le Locle, this year was comparatively tame, focused on expanding the line-up of METAS-certified Black Bay models. Initial thoughts Tudor is one of the Swiss watch industry’s great success stories of the last decade. In a market in which high-end products have enjoyed the lion’s share of growth, Tudor has achieved an enviable market position by consistently improving design and quality while maintaining affordable pricing. The brand is also listening to the community, and introducing products that are likely to have built-in demand; the BB58 GMT is emblematic of this formula. Beyond its signature gilt accents and black and burgundy “Coke” bezel, the big story is of course the packaging of a true “flyer” GMT functionality in the smaller Black Bay 58 case format. The original Black Bay GMT, introduced in 2018, was beefier, at 41 mm in diameter and nearly 15 mm thick (14.6 mm to be specific). The Black Bay Pro shrunk the diameter to 39 mm, but the thickness stayed the same, resulting in a watch that felt overly thick. The New BB58 GMT address...

Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr. SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Extra Special” Chronometer Jun 3, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr.

A patrician banker who gained posthumous fame in the 21st century for his watch collection, Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) is most famous for having owned the Graves Supercomplication, once the most complicated watch in the world, and also the most expensive watch ever when it sold at auction ten years ago. His reputation means the watches he once owned – there were not all that many of them but all were high quality – carry cachet. One such example is coming up for sale at Phillips New York auction. It’s a Patek Philippe “Extra Special” pocket watch that is top-quality chronometer, classical in style and functional, and bearing the all-important Graves family crest on the hinged back. Now a horological symbol Not rivals but great collectors Graves’ modern-day fame as a watch collector was due in part to the ostensible rivalry between him and James Ward Packard (1863-1928), the engineer who founded the eponymous automobile company and an equally accomplished collector of great watches. Though both were active during the same decades, more or less, the famous competition between the two was a story made up in the 1990s to market the Supercomplication. Graves outlived Packard by 25 years, and the latter was quite ill when Graves was at his collecting peak. Graves bought the “Extra Special” pocket watch here in 1925, the year Ward fell ill with cancer before dying just three years later. An example of Packard’s impeccable taste: he commissioned this Patek Ph...

First Look - The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day and Sand Dial, Tribute to the 80th Anniversary of the Normandy Landings Monochrome
Jun 3, 2024

First Look - The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day and Sand Dial, Tribute to the 80th Anniversary of the Normandy Landings

Praesidus has become well known for affordable World War II-inspired collections. Recent examples include the A-11 Marston Mat Limited Edition (with actual D-Day Marston Mat dials) and The Type A-11 DD-45 (based on World War II Dirty Dozen combat watches). A new pair of limited-edition models pay homage to D-DAY for the 80th anniversary and […]

The IWC Porsche Design Ocean Watches Issued To The Bundeswehr Fratello
Porsche Design Ocean Watches Issued Jun 3, 2024

The IWC Porsche Design Ocean Watches Issued To The Bundeswehr

Military-issued watches are fascinating to learn about. In this article, I’ll share my chat with IWC’s historian about one such watch, the Porsche-designed Ocean Bund. The IWC Ocean Bund (short for Bundeswehr or “German Federal Armed Forces”) is one of those fascinating watches in history. It was a cutting-edge design at the time and an […] Visit The IWC Porsche Design Ocean Watches Issued To The Bundeswehr to read the full article.

Sinn Introduces the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling Navitimer – Jun 3, 2024

Sinn Introduces the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph

Known for its military-inspired instrument watches, Sinn revisits one of its signature models with the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph. Updated in terms of the movement and case, the new 903 makes its debut with three dial variants, including a limited edition featuring an attractive light blue dial. Initial thoughts The 903 St is curious for bearing a striking similarity to the Breitling Navitimer – a result of Breitling having sold the rights to produce the Navitimer when it went bust during the Quartz Crisis. While the earliest versions of the 903 were essentially rebadged Navitimers – Sinn having bought the components from Breitling – the new 903 is a Sinn creation and also better than previous generations. The 903 St II in classic black Compared to earlier generations of the model, the 903 St II is streamlined and improved. Upgrades include removing the fiddly second crown at ten (so the slide rule is now directly operated via the bezel), the addition of luminous blocks for indices, and an applied logo.  The appeal of the new 903, however, does have one caveat: the date between four and five remains, but only on the regular production version. It’s absent on the limited edition, but that arguably should have been done for all variants.  The standard 903 St costs US$3,730 with a leather strap, and an additional US$240 for a bracelet. The 500-piece limited edition model is priced at US$4,170. The affordable price makes it a more attractive proposition than ma...

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome May 30, 2024

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II

It’s been a few months since the end of Watches and Wonders, and the world of watches is starting to feel a little bit more normal again. There aren’t dozens of watches fighting for your attention in countless new release articles. What is happening though is many of these watches  are making their way into the hands of enthusiasts and first impressions and #NWAs are starting to trickle out with the best and brightest that Watches and Wonders had to offer. One such beneficiary of these new watches hitting the streets is yours truly. I got a brief hands-on with the new Tudor Black Bay 41 “Monochrome” during a pop in at the W&W; HQ, and spent just enough time with it to walk away with a few solid first impressions.  Tudor DNA Distilled Into A Single Watch One of the first things I noticed about the BB41 Monochrome is just how Tudor it really is. The snowflake hands pop off the contrasting black dial, the 60-click bezel clicks past markings with an authoritative snap, and polished slab sides make up the bulk of the height of the watch. The dial is clean and easy to read, not a hint of fauxtina in sight. There’s no date, which keeps things super simple. Two lines of text is just the right amount of words to let you know how deep you can dive and that your watch will be very, very accurate (as far as mechanical watches go, at least). Upon closer inspection, the dial features a more interesting finish than it first leads on. It’s satin-finished with a slight sunburs...

Introducing - The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Audemars Piguet 1972 Royal Oak Patek May 30, 2024

Introducing - The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive

Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

Louis Erard’s Latest is a Regulator with a Traditional Grand Feu Enamel Dial Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s Latest May 29, 2024

Louis Erard’s Latest is a Regulator with a Traditional Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard has recently collaborated with Donzé Cadrans, a veteran in the enamel dials field since 1972. As a first for Erard, the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel model is adorned for the first time with a traditional grand feu enamel dial. This partnership shows an expansion for the Swiss brand into new territory – and done with impeccable taste.  The use of grand feu enamel here marries technical precision and artisan craftsmanship. Each dial has to be made by hand, involving a meticulous process where layers of enamel are applied and fired at temperatures exceeding 800°C. This technique not only ensures vibrant and long-lasting colors but also demands an exceptional level of skill and patience, as even the slightest imperfection can require the entire piece to be redone. The result is a unique and exquisite timepiece, where no two dials are exactly alike, showcasing the harmony between tradition and innovation in watchmaking. The Le Régulateur model has an ivory-colored grand feu dial against the polished stainless steel case, giving a classic look for just about any occasion. The dial also features an hour and seconds counter subdials stacked at both the 12 and 6 o’clock mark. The colors are offset with a vibrant blue that both contrasts and marries the look together. With an automatic movement running on a Sellita SW266-1 calibre, you’ll have no trouble keeping time with this watch. The Régulateur is pulled together with a grey grained cal...

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention Worn & Wound
Breguet s Genius May 28, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...

IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case SJX Watches
Hamilton May 28, 2024

IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case

IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...