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Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Masahiro Kikuno Oct 23, 2020

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker

Fine finishing in high-end watchmaking automatically brings to mind polished bevels, black-polished steel, Cotes de Geneve, blueing, and even perlage. But less thought is given to frosting, even though it is prominent in the grandest of timepieces made by leading independent watchmakers. Put simply, frosting is the treatment of a metal to create an uneven, pitted surface. A beautifully rough finish, frosting dulls the appearance of the component it is applied to. Many brands rely on the technique for decoration, but often in strikingly different forms. Akrivia, Greubel Forsey, Masahiro Kikuno, and Roger W. Smith are all known for their frosted finishes, but each differs from the other in technique and aesthetic effect. The frosted bridges on the front of the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Heroes and sidekicks When it comes to finishing methods in horology, I like to separate them into two categories: heroes and sidekicks. The sidekicks – such as perlage, graining, and of course frosting – are the methods that help the heroes stand out. Do not think any less of the sidekicks because without them, the heroes would not get the attention they deserve. The heroes are the methods that make you wonder: “This is beautiful – how did they do that?” Black polishing, blueing and engraving are just a few of them. As in the comic books, heroes and sidekicks work together to make each other look good. But as is frequently the case in fiction, sidekicks are often forgotten. Take fo...

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 20, 2020

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph

Having gotten its start by collaborating with independent watchmakers like Habring2, Massena Lab has just unveiled the first watch of its own brand, the Uni-Racer. A vintage-style wristwatch modelled on the Universal Genève Uni-Compax “Big Eye” chronograph of the 1960s, the Uni-Racer features several details that will appeal to enthusiasts, while having an affordable price tag of just under US$3,500. Initial thoughts Like all other remakes of vintage watches, the Uni-Racer reproduces the look of its vintage inspiration, while enlarging everything – the case is 39 mm compared to 37 mm for the original – to suit modern tastes. But unlike most other remakes, the Uni-Racer attends to the details that only a keen-eyed collector would appreciate, which is hardly a surprise since Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a longtime watch collector himself (and probably best known as the former general manager of watch forum Timezone.com). Features like the hand-wind movement and vintage-style buckle indicate the attention to detail in its conception. But there are also the less obvious elements, like the tiny, engraved logo on the crystal and the Massena Lab emblem that resembles an inverted Universal Genève logo. In fact, Massena Lab says it “interviewed former Universal Genève employees and suppliers to confirm original details and aesthetics”. The achievement of the Uni-Racer is not a novel design, but the careful curation of details that give the watch an authentic...

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Nocturne SJX Watches
Jul 6, 2020

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Nocturne

German independent watchmaker had a hit when it debuted the Kudoke 2 last year. Combining hand-engraved decor with an affordable price tag, the watch was well received by enthusiasts while also enjoying critical acclaim, winning the Petite Aiguille – the category for watches under 10,000 Swiss francs – at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The Kudoke 2 Nocturne is a limited edition variant of the standard model in a run of only 20 pieces, a nod to the 20th year of this century. While the standard version features a silver-and-gold palette, the Nocturne is dressed in shades of grey, both on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts The Kudoke 2 was one of last year’s more compelling watches for me. Not only is it priced well, but the watch has a refined yet German aesthetic that’s pleasing. The watch is clean, with no superfluous elements to distract from its charming simplicity, yet equipped with several attractive classical details. And the Nocturne has a slightly more modern look than the original, despite having the same design. The movement, developed with the help of Habring2, has a unique style and excellent finish, especially considering the price of €8,665, or a little under US$10,000, which is the same price as standard version. With artful hand engraving and an original movement, the watch screams value proposition. A new face Having an identical design as the standard model, the Nocturne retains the clean, symmetrical look of the...

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Apr 20, 2020

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon

Since Louis Vuitton acquired complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT) in 2012, the trunk maker has made impressive strides in its haute horlogerie. The newly launched Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève encapsulates Louis Vuitton’s complicated watchmaking – confident, modern styling combined with a first-rate calibre. Granted, the Tambour Curve is pricey – US$250,000 pricey – but it is clearly catered for a specific consumer. That buyer wants an ultra-high end, contemporary, and slightly sporty watch, the type of watch found in the segment dominated by Richard Mille and Hublot. But Louis Vuitton has executed the Tambour Curve extremely well, creating an appealing – and importantly, cohesively designed – wristwatch that is more than just looks. The LV 108 movement inside was developed and made by LFDT, which is led by veteran watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both of whom I hold in very high regard. Louis Vuitton long-term strategy in developing its watchmaking – essentially do it well and expensively – is demonstrated by the quality of the Tambour Curve. The brand could have gotten away with building a so-so watch, just because it is Louis Vuitton. But it didn’t, and the Tambour Curve exhibits a notable level of attention to detail in styling and craft. CarboStratum The Tambour Curve is a big watch with a streamlined, rounded form that is almost organic. Not only is the case round, its flanks are concave, whil...

Hands-On: Romain Gauthier Logical One Byzantine SJX Watches
Mar 18, 2020

Hands-On: Romain Gauthier Logical One Byzantine

The Romain Gauthier Logical One was launched in 2013 to critical acclaim, and clinched the year’s award for Best Men’s Complication at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). While centred on the very old idea of a chain and fusée, the Logical One stood in contrast to contemporary wristwatches with the same complication. Other watchmakers sought, single-mindedly, to miniaturise the chain and fusée – doubtlessly a feat of micro-engineering – but Romain Gauthier took a step forward and developed a truly modern incarnation of the constant-force mechanism that originated in the 15th century. And contrary to well-known makers of the chain and fusée today, most notably A. Lange & Söhne, Romain Gauthier ensured the chain and fusée in the Logical One is entirely visible on the dial. Since its debut, the Logical One has been iterated multiple times, with variations covering the spectrum from traditional to ultra-contemporary. The attractiveness of the many versions vary – some are overdone – while others are a perfect fit for the impressive movement. One that works perfectly is the unique Logical One Byzantine that has the striking combination of a blue enamel dial and movement bridges bridges engraved with a motif inspired by Byzantine art. (Though this specific combination is unique, similar-looking examples have been produced, for instance with blue sub-dials but without engraving.) Case and architecture Due to the complex architecture of the movemen...

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic: Timing Is Getting Pretty Thin Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Nov 17, 2019

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic: Timing Is Getting Pretty Thin

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is the recent winner of the Chronograph category at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and current world record holder for the thinnest mechanical chronograph. Joshua Munchow thinks that as such the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT deserves closer inspection to discover just how it achieved this feat while looking cool in the process.

3 Mosers we’re excited to see next week Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie are coming Sep 21, 2019

3 Mosers we’re excited to see next week

H. Moser & Cie are coming Down Under next week to show off some of their hottest new timepieces. We can’t wait to see Moser’s very rare watches, especially these three stunners: Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD Moser has decided to up the horological ante once again with its latest Pioneer, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD. … ContinuedThe post 3 Mosers we’re excited to see next week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous Aug 26, 2019

The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome

It might surprise you to learn that one of my favourite watches from this year’s SIHH show was the Dazzling Rendez-Vous from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Rendez-Vous has been a strong women’s offering for some time, but this Dazzling version really ups the ante. This is thanks largely to that outer ring of 36 diamonds, which dominate … ContinuedThe post The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2019

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions

Editor’s note: Being a pilot who’s into watches is already cool enough, but when you add in some seriously serious photography skills, that’s the whole ballgame. If you need some watch photography inspiration, this is it. Here’s a story from a while back when Andy caught up with Dale Mracek of @MracekProductions … Hi Dale, … ContinuedThe post Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know Time+Tide
F.P. Journe Aug 21, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know

F.P. Journe is an interesting case in the expanding landscape of independent watchmaking. For a watchmaker that produces around 900 pieces per year, the brand is seen in all the right places, regularly winning prizes at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and producing a watch for the Only Watch charity auction for its last … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time) Time+Tide
Longines Weems Apr 28, 2019

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time)

Editor’s note: We originally ran Andy’s interview with John a few years back, but seeing a spectacular Longines Weems that was awarded to a Submarine School captain in 1943 reminded us of just how cool this guy and his collection is – well worth a second look.  John, AKA @barnfindwatches, is a family man and … ContinuedThe post How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be… Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2019

Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be…

Editor’s note: Last year, Andy Green did what he does, and had an intense Instagram browsing session to come up with this list of five celebs who are more likely than most to rock some serious wrist hardware. Given John Mayer’s recent redux of his Hodinkee Talk Watches piece, we thought the time was ripe … ContinuedThe post Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold Time+Tide
Jan 8, 2019

HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold

There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the ante with their conceptual perpetual with impossibly black Vantablack dial. Well, if this well of blackness (which is a wonder on the wrist) leaves you as cold … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: Ultra-thin heavyweight – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in gold  Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Aug 19, 2018

IN-DEPTH: Ultra-thin heavyweight – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in gold 

The story in a second: Bulgari’s latest take on the Octo Finissimo Automatic is the anti-gold gold watch. How about a riddle to start your Monday off right? When is a gold watch not a gold watch? When it’s Bulgari’s darling, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rose gold. Now, obviously it’s a gold watch, but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Ultra-thin heavyweight – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in gold  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: The origins of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Editor’s note Earlier May 8, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The origins of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

Editor’s note: Earlier this week we ran a video that looked at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Polaris collection. While this video was being put together I found myself referring back to Andy’s article from earlier this year, which looked at the very interesting Polaris backstory. So here it is again, the story behind the Polaris. And, yes, … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The origins of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @TheKirkland (Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo!) Time+Tide
Apr 14, 2018

WHO TO FOLLOW: @TheKirkland (Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo!)

Editors note: This week’s Who To Follow is the result of a mild obsession Andy and I had with the Blamo! podcast, which, if you’re at all interested in the world of fashion, style and luxury, is jam-packed full of gold moments and on-point insight. Given that we’ve tapped out the first three seasons, we’re … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @TheKirkland (Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHY I BOUGHT: The 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 Time+Tide
Richard Mille Nov 3, 2017

WHY I BOUGHT: The 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600

Andy Zhang is among Australia’s most high-profile collectors - and highly active on social media. His pieces tend to inhabit the top end of town, and statements such as “I thought I’d wear Richard Mille for life” should not surprise. There are some horological heavyweights appearing on his Instagram account, daily. Which was where we noticed the … ContinuedThe post WHY I BOUGHT: The 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @gazman70k Time+Tide
Oct 14, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @gazman70k

In this extra long edition of Who to Follow, Andy speaks to the exceptionally well-dressed Gary about life, work, finding the right watch, and how to dress your best. NAME:                                   Gary Tok OCCUPATION:                    Travelling salesman and part-time author HANDLE:                               @gazman70k FOLLOWERS:                     5.1k LOCATION:                         Hong … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @gazman70k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Zhangerator Time+Tide
Sep 9, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Zhangerator

During the day, Andy is a sharp-dressed businessman, but come sundown he’s a gym-loving, whisky-drinking major watch nerd. Although he loves watches of all shapes and sizes, he has a particular penchant for one specific brand… NAME: Andy Zhang OCCUPATION: Businessman & Watch Nerd HANDLE: @A_Zhangerator FOLLOWERS: 17.5k LOCATION: SYD, AU Hey Andy, how do you … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Zhangerator appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INSIGHT: Speedmaster, Seamaster, Railmaster – which Omega 1957 Trilogy watch is right for you? Time+Tide
Omega 1957 Trilogy watch Jul 26, 2017

INSIGHT: Speedmaster, Seamaster, Railmaster – which Omega 1957 Trilogy watch is right for you?

Seeing Omega’s 1957 Trilogy 60th Anniversary boxed set in the metal was one of the highlights of Baselworld this year for Andrew, Andy and myself. Not least because we realised that seeing these three pitch perfect reissues in one place ever again was unlikely, given the astonishing demand. And while getting your hands on the … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: Speedmaster, Seamaster, Railmaster – which Omega 1957 Trilogy watch is right for you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ocean Commitment II Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Nov 29, 2016

IN-DEPTH: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ocean Commitment II

The story in a second Blancpain has upped the ante on last year’s excellent Ocean Commitment watch, with a second – even bluer – limited edition. These days it’s not unique for a watch brand to have a corporate social responsibility program, usually tied in with a limited edition product. Few, however, do it with … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ocean Commitment II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 1, October 2016 – An Introduction Time+Tide
Oct 12, 2016

SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 1, October 2016 – An Introduction

Editor’s Note: It will surprise no-one to learn that Andy Green spends a significant amount of time each month in cafés, handling watches – of fairly staggering scope and value – and meeting people. That was pretty much our brief to him when we started working with Andy officially back in the early days of Time+Tide. Go forth. … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 1, October 2016 – An Introduction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Getting A Feel For The King Seiko Vanac HKF004 145th-Anniversary Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Vanac HKF004 145th-Anniversary Limited 2h ago

Getting A Feel For The King Seiko Vanac HKF004 145th-Anniversary Limited Edition

Seiko continues its 145th-anniversary celebrations with a special version of the King Seiko Vanac. Since the Vanac’s reintroduction in 2025, the series has grown quickly. At this point, you can choose from nine steel and titanium models that sport a stylish ’70s look. With the new Vanac HKF004, Seiko has created a version that immediately […] Visit Getting A Feel For The King Seiko Vanac HKF004 145th-Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver 59 Worn & Wound
Longines Legend Diver 59 Someday 11h ago

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver 59

Someday, when the history of the contemporary vintage inspired sports watch is written, the Longines Legend Diver will need an entire chapter devoted to it. It’s an incredibly important watch not just in this very specific genre (which at times over the last decade or so has been the most important segment in watchmaking) but in the annals of modern watch history. I sometimes think its influence is not quite given enough credit as it is often compared and lumped in with the Tudor Black Bay, but the Legend Diver is very much its own thing and set a course for Longines upon its introduction that the brand is still very much following to this day.  There have been a number of iterations on the original Legend Diver format over the years, including limited editions and a very well received line of smaller, more compact Legend Divers in easy to wear 39mm cases. The latest Legend Diver, the Legend Diver 59, arrives today and feels like a return to the original reissue of the iconic diver in a number of ways.  The most notable thing about the Legend Diver 59 (besides the name, which will likely invite even more comparisons, and probably some memes, comparing the watch to various numbered Tudor Black Bays) is the watch’s size. The case here measures 42mm, the same as the original reissue of the Legend Diver, as well as the actual original Legend Diver, which first appeared in, you guessed it, 1959. When I saw this watch in person at a Longines preview event in Dallas earlier...

Introducing the Horologically Unique HU-01 “Finale” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s Calatrava 96 14h ago

Introducing the Horologically Unique HU-01 “Finale”

Last year’s HU-01 took the watch world by storm, paying homage to Patek Philippe’s Calatrava 96 and offering it for a fraction of the source material’s price. Horologically Unique stuck closely to the Calatrava’s design language but added their own embellishments and twists. The original HU-01 modernized a classic to some degree, taking the original’s case dimensions of 31mm and bulking them up to 36mm, using a high-domed sapphire crystal, and installing an exhibition case back. Horologically Unique’s newest model, named the HU-01 Finale, takes the same general formula but adds a hint of luxury and a dash of more historically-accurate design elements. The Finale positions itself somewhere between the first HU-01 and the original Calatrava 96, both in aesthetics and pricing. So what makes the Finale a cut above its predecessor? The first notable difference can be seen with the two dials on offer: one in a brushed grey finish and the other with a stone dial made of jade. The latter model, nicknamed the “Yu” or “玉” meaning jade in Chinese, exhibits a gorgeous greenish-blue hue courtesy of the Burmese jade. It’s unlike most other stone dials I’ve seen, and I’m sure it will be a sight to behold in-person under direct lighting. Adorning both dials are a series of lab-grown diamonds, three baguette cut and eight round brilliant cut. Adding a bit of bling to a sterile dial is a unique choice, one I think helps add more character to what otherwise would ...