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24,614 articles · 227 videos found · page 805 of 829

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Jan 6, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”

Arguably the most significant Audemars Piguet timepiece ever, the Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with a host of new models, including the all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and even a skeletonised, selfwinding flying tourbillon. And just before entering the New Year, Audemars Piguet (AP) dropped the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”. Essentially identical to the standard model, the new version – which is available in either white or pink gold – is distinguished by its surface finishing: dimples on the dial and frosting on the bezel. Limited to 33 pieces each, the pair are primarily for Japan, with only a handful of watches available outside the country. According to our sources, the unusual combination of finishes were proposed by Japanese watch influencer Chronopeace, explaining why most of the run will be sold only in Japan – though this has neither been confirmed nor denied by AP. Initial thoughts I first heard about this discreet release when images were shared with me. As AP occasionally won’t say what drops, the watch was not announced officially, but instead quietly added to its online catalogue, perhaps because it is only available in Japan. Despite being low key, this new release will surely appeal to anyone who likes the Royal Oak but wants the added oomph of a special dial. At a glance, the watch easily reveals itself to be stunning. The layout and style are familiar, but the few tweaks to the dial an...

The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun Time+Tide
Franck Muller Crazy Hours Jan 6, 2023

The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun

It goes likes this: 8, 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3. No, this isn’t some Fibonacci-like mathematical sequence, the combination to a very complicated electronic safe, or even a code for sending secret military messages via a cipher machine. It’s the order of numerals on the Art Deco dial of … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel Jan 2, 2023

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

In an unexpected, end-of-year announcement, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 Starwheel, reviving the wandering hours complication that had been absent from its catalogue since 2003. Inspired by a 17th century clock, the wandering hours made its way into wristwatches thanks to Audemars Piguet (AP), which debuted the first wristwatch with the display in 1991. Retaining the familiar three-disc hour display, the new Starwheel is nonetheless an entirely different watch from the compact original. Powered by an in-house movement contained in the Code 11.59 case, the Starwheel has physical presence by virtue of its size, but also a surprising degree of refinement thanks to the excellent finishing of the dial and case. Initial thoughts With a modern look defined by dark colours and instrument-like numerals, the Code 11.59 Starwheel looks pretty much the same as it does in photos – but it is far more appealing than expected. In the metal the watch has an impressive degree of visual detail, particularly the polished bevels on the dial components, and a reassuringly solid feel, all of which give it a great deal of tactile appeal. The refinement in terms of visual detail also translates into the movement, which is in-house both in terms of the base and module. Although it functions identically to the original Star Wheel, the Code 11.59 model has an improved display mechanism. Instead of the periodic rotation found in the original model, the discs rotate continually throughout ...

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Dec 31, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap

With the heat from integrated-bracelet sports watches showing no signs of cooling off, more and more brands are getting into the game. And in some cases, they’re resurrecting those bold designs from their own back catalogues, which is exactly what Chopard did in 2019, when it released the Alpine Eagle to great fanfare. The Alpine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Dec 25, 2022

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications

Most brands, especially the establishment names, stuck to the evolutionary rather than revolutionary in 2022, which also held true for the latest complications for the year. Nearly all of the year’s most notable complications were derived from past concepts. But the result can still be impressive, as demonstrated by the Ulysse Nardin Freak S. The latest version of a watch that was revolutionary when it was introduced in 2001, the Freak S embodies the ideas that made the original Freak a milestone, including the unorthodox movement construction and the liberal use of intricately-shaped silicon components. But above all it boasts a far more complex regulator that takes the form of twin oscillators connected by a differential. As outlined in our in-depth review, the twin-balance setup was mostly found on classical (and expensive) chronometers from the likes of Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour, making the Freak S an outlier with its hyper-modern design. And at US$137,000, it is also more affordable than similar complications from other makers. Standing in stark contrast to the aggressively contemporary styling of the Freak S is the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse. Typical of Cartier with its Roman numerals and ruby cabochon in the crown, the Masse Mystérieuse is inspired by the mystery clocks made by the jeweller in the first half of the 20th century. The result of over eight years of research and development, the Masse Mystérieuse was the final complication devised by C...

Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Dec 24, 2022

Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO

When it comes to the world’s most desired timepieces, one name stands head and shoulders above the rest: Rolex. And among the legendary models from the storied marque, the Daytona chronograph is at the top of most enthusiasts’ wish lists. No other chronograph generates the same level of FOMO heat in today’s market, with its … ContinuedThe post Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing Time+Tide
Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph Dec 20, 2022

VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing

With some of the more out-there design choices of the late ’90s and early ’00s coming back into fashion, it takes an extremely keen eye to come out with a range which matches that energy without looking too dated or clunky. The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph and Powermatic 80 are watches that capture the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Minase Horizon and 5 Windows Midsize Time+Tide
Minase Dec 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Minase Horizon and 5 Windows Midsize

There has been no shortage of love for Minase in recent times, and for good reason. The Japanese brand is consistently producing watches that challenge the artistry of much larger luxury brands for a fraction of the cost, and their originality goes far beyond simply changing up some dial designs. Expanding their list of potential … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase Horizon and 5 Windows Midsize appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602 Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 Nov 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602

Most people associate IWC with pilot’s watches, which makes total sense due to their rich aviation history and classics like the Mark and Big Pilot series. But with their Portugieser and Portofino collections, IWC prove they still know how to appeal to dressier sensibilities. The latest duo of Portofino watches, the IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit Time+Tide
Ming Paris summit Back Nov 21, 2022

Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit

Back in August we covered the idea of a “negative leap second“, in which, due to the record short day lengths a backward leap second may need to be instituted to reconcile time. At the time I thought the subject was done and dusted, as scientists did not believe any alarms needed to be rang … ContinuedThe post Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 12, 2022

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022

A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s elemental SBGW293 and SBGW291 are a celebration of fine details Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s elemental SBGW293 Nov 11, 2022

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s elemental SBGW293 and SBGW291 are a celebration of fine details

Grand Seiko and special releases – name a better love story. The duo we’re looking at today, the air-inspired silvery SBGW291 Kuuki and earthy SBGW293 Tsuji, continue the prolonged celebration of the 55th anniversary of the brand’s 44GS case. Famous for its sharp, reflective facets and plentiful wrist presence, it takes on a reduced form … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s elemental SBGW293 and SBGW291 are a celebration of fine details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Nov 10, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011

Having launched several elegant and concise time-only watches this year, Grand Seiko has unveiled something once again simple but still unusual: the first regular-production, manual-wind Spring Drive 44GS, the Heritage Collection SBGY011 “Asaborake”. The SBGY011 combines two of the best elements of Grand Seiko (GS), namely the hybrid Spring Drive movement and the distinctive 44GS case. While the combination has been seen before, the SBGY011 brings something new to the table because the movement is manual wind, instead of self-winding as most Spring Drive calibres are. Initial thoughts I appreciate the SBGY011 because it retains the key features of the original, namely the 44GS case, silver dial, and hand-wind movement – but reinterpreted to incorporate contemporary elements such as the Spring Drive movement and patterned dial. Combined with the 44GS case, the silver dial gives the SBGY011 an aesthetic that’s close to the vintage 44GS of 1967. In fact, it’s essentially a modern, more technically-capable version of the original, which also contained a hand-wind mechanical movement. In fact, the SBGY011 is only the second hand-wind Spring Drive watch with a 44GS case, and the first and only one that’s not a limited edition. The hand-wind movement matters because the 44GS case is exponentially more attractive when it’s thin; in this case it is only 10.5 mm high. In comparison, a typical automatic Spring Drive is around 13 mm thick. Notably, despite being a regul...

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Nov 3, 2022

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic

After rolling out the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black and then white ceramic – making them the first all-ceramic Royal Oaks – Audemars Piguet put new colours on hiatus, until now. The Le Brassus watchmaker has just unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS in blue ceramic, making it the first Royal Oak entirely in coloured ceramic (aside from black or white). Initial thoughts Though ceramic has long been a favoured case material at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is typically employed for certain components, usually the bezel, to create two-tone appearance. AP has rarely made entirely watches in ceramic until recently. Even now AP only has eight Royal Oak models entirely in ceramic, out of dozens of references in total. And of the eight, six are black ceramic. So the latest Royal Oak is special just because of the colour. Admittedly, the colour is not unique in watchmaking. And the all-blue aesthetic is certainly polarising. But an all-ceramic Royal Oak is always attractive in terms of look and feel, because the case and bracelet finishing is exemplary. More broadly, the electric blue Royal Oak perhaps captures the zeitgeist of contemporary watch collecting perfectly with its brash colour, unusual materials, and integrated bracelet – it is a watch of the times. It costs CHF129,000, making it more expensive than the equivalents in steel or titanium, but there’s nothing else quite like it, which helps make the price a bit more digestible. High-tech blue ...

Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sparkling Division Quill & Pad
Oct 26, 2022

Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sparkling Division

We finally arrive at the 2022 GPHG Jewellery category, which is often the most varied in opinion as there is such wide room for taste. Seen among the competing watches are a couple familiar faces, a few bold choices, and even a wild card that might have gotten lost while carrying a pouch full of diamonds through a particle accelerator. What does our peanut gallery think? It's divided.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits Oct 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size

There’s really nothing else like the look of a Panerai, such is its visual singularity. A long-time favourite of Hollywood (and real-life) tough guys, it’s a legend among those whose default wristwear leans hard into “bold statement”. In fact, I’d say it’s nearly as recognisable as a Submariner, if less ubiquitous, and frankly, one of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution Time+Tide
Ming Oct 17, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution

The concept of evolution over revolution is more than a catchy phrase, it also shows the dedication that a company has to perfecting a concept. Between the Manhattan, the Skymaster and the Hudson, Maen are a brand of structure and refinement. No detail goes unconsidered, and the result is something both charming and holistic. The … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Oct 14, 2022

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review

The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Time+Tide
Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Oct 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black

Hublot has made a habit of mastering the art of collaboration – art being the operative word. Their creations provide many artist with an inspiring and complex canvas on which to express themselves, whether through colour, texture or material. That creative fusion brought to life by the imagination of an artist continues with their latest … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition Deployant
IWC s Mark XX edition Oct 8, 2022

New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition

The IWC Mark XX is a highly wearable military timepiece with simplicity and functionality at its core. It has 120 hours power reserve which is significantly more than the average 3 days movement today. You may recall that the designers took their inspiration from the 1930s Junkers Ju 52 cockpit instruments, which have served as the model for classic pilot’s watches. The displays are round, generously sized and clearly arranged. The Arabic figures, big and round, stand proudly in position, with just two exceptions: instead of a “12”, we see a white triangle with a single dot on either side for better legibility, and at “3 o’clock” a date window, as a concession to modernity. The 40mm watch is well sized without being bulky at 10.8mm, uses contrasting dial and displays come very close to the ideal of the classic pilot’s watch. The watch is priced at US$5250 on leather and US$6150 on bracelet.

HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton Oct 5, 2022

HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S

One of the best things about Hamilton is the way in which they’ve continued to deliver to the customers they’ve always aimed to please - watch lovers without astronomical budgets. Although mechanical watches are inherently a luxury to some degree,  Hamilton continue to hit the spot with some of the best value Swiss watches out … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera Time+Tide
TAG Heuer rev up Oct 5, 2022

VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera

TAG Heuer and Porsche have been on a high-octane roll since their partnership began last year, releasing collaborative models left, right and centre. The brand new TAG Heuer 911 Carrera R.S. 2.7 goes the only direction not yet explored – up. Celebrating the first 911 model to bear the iconic Carrera name, TAG Heuer created … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary? Time+Tide
Oct 5, 2022

We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary?

Radium was discovered by Marie Curie in 1898, and it was already showing up on the dials of wristwatches by the early 1900s. This goes to show how intertwined the idea of luminous markings and watchmaking really are, as the industry has been a constant point of innovation for the technology. From the dark past … ContinuedThe post We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Oct 3, 2022

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...