Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova & Caravelle Revive the Sea Hunter ‘Devil Diver’, Priced Under $400
Bulova’s Caravelle revives the Caravelle Devil Diver: a 39mm automatic dive watch with 200m WR, vintage charm, and $375 price tag.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova’s Caravelle revives the Caravelle Devil Diver: a 39mm automatic dive watch with 200m WR, vintage charm, and $375 price tag.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...
WatchAdvice
Hublot are an ever-present disruptor of the traditional watch industry, but do the brand’s horological standards ‘walk the talk?’ Let’s find out! What We Love: Tough, light & unobtrusive on-wrist Bold design married with demure aesthetics Surprising variation of finishes and detailing What We Don’t: No lume on a sports watch? Chronograph operation feels tougher than most Movement choice makes for a challenging value proposition Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When I was first introduced to the luxury watch industry and all the wonders it holds, it was an overwhelming experience. This isn’t a ground-breaking revelation – I’m sure many of you shared the same circumstances at one point – but I found myself quickly scrambling for some watch advice, no pun intended. However, since I was the only watch nerd (that I knew of) in my demographic, I naturally navigated online. There, I was told a great many facts and rules. Some of them were good, like “don’t change the date between 9 and 3 o’clock,” or “take the watch off before you adjust the time.” Other bits and pieces, however, were just opinions disguised as fact. “Never buy [this brand],” “only buy [that brand] …” All the typical drivel we roll our eyes at now; I integrated into my own beliefs as a then watch noob. Of course, this also led me to one of the watch community’s biggest discourses: Hublot. From what I saw, th...
Deployant
We attended the 270th Anniversary of Vacheron Constantin and the launch of the object La Quête du Temps as well as the wristwatch Métiers d’art Tribute
Fratello
It should come as no surprise to those who regularly read my work that I’m a fan of Tudor watches. In fact, to mark a significant personal milestone, I bought a Tudor Black Bay 58 for my 30th birthday. Today, though, we’re looking at a very different watch, the Tudor Heritage Ranger. This is not […] Visit Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A piece unique Gérald Genta created for the Royal Family of Sarawak is tributed by three new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set watches.The post This Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set trio tributes the piece unique that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Turn on the coffee machine because it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In this week’s battle, two retro-infused dive watches take center stage. The first is the recently released Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218. It’s a modern remake of a 1993 classic made exclusively for the Italian Navy. It will face off against the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 to read the full article.
Deployant
Armin Strom adds a dial variant to their Tribute 1 collection with a forest inspired green which looks rather refreshing and elegant.
WatchAdvice
This isn’t just another colour variant, it’s Zenith pushing the DEFY Skyline Chronograph into full-ceramic territory with its signature blue. The result is a watch that turns heads like a show car but wears like a daily driver. A fitting 160th-anniversary statement piece that blends Zenith’s history with its future. What We Love Full royal-blue ceramic case and bracelet give the watch a bold, cohesive look that stands out from almost anything else in this price segment. Despite the 42 mm size, the ceramic construction keeps the watch surprisingly light and wearable, even on slimmer wrists. Zenith’s El Primero 3600 combines high-frequency accuracy, 1/10th-second timing, and a 60-hour reserve. What We Don’t Matching blue sub-dials keeps the design cohesive, but doesn’t have visual separation compared to contrasting colours. The date at 4:30 is a necessary compromise but still slightly disrupts dial symmetry. Ceramic links can be trickier to size and adjust compared to steel bracelets. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 Earlier this year, Zenith released a host of blue ceramic timepieces in celebration of its 160th anniversary. The timepieces included the Pilot Big Date Flyback, Chronomaster Sport, DEFY Skyline Chronograph, and, of course, the very special Zenith G.F.J timepiece. These special limited edition models were given the blue colour treatment as it’s a signature colour of the brand. The colour ...
Monochrome
One of my favourite things is to discover true automotive obscurities, and I recently came eye-to-eye with something I had never seen before, and I doubt many of you will have seen or even heard of either. When strolling through the showroom of Louwman Exclusive, the Dutch sports- and supercar importer that also offers a […]
Time+Tide
Seiko teams up with high-end Japanese shoemaker REGAL Shoes & Co. on a sustainability-focused collaboration.The post Seiko partners with REGAL for an upscale take on upcycling with latest Presage Classic release appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
If asked which was more impressive, it would be hard for me to choose between the La Quête du Temps clock unveiled at the Louvre in Paris or the staff of Vacheron Constantin putting on a surprising show of music and dance in the Genevan manufacture the next day. “VC” started its celebration of 270 […] Visit After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century. To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...
Monochrome
A force to be reckoned with on the indie scene, Armin Strom is renowned for its haute horlogerie prowess, illustrated by its mastery of the phenomenon of resonance. However, aware that not everyone can splurge on its high-end Resonance and Masterpiece collections, Armin Strom introduced a more accessible yet no less mechanically compelling range in […]
Worn & Wound
Space, fire, time. These things are elemental, conduits to deep discussions about our place in the universe, and the nature of life itself. What does it all mean? It’s the stuff of 3:00 AM dorm room deep dives, the kinds of conversations that happen after watching 2001 for the first time. Every so often, a piece of art, or an object (or even a watch!) scratches at these ideas. That’s what I started to ponder, anyway, when I first read about the new Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, a striking new version of their spacefaring chronograph with a unique (literally) dial with one of the more interesting concepts behind it that I’ve seen this year. The highlight here, as you can likely derive from the images, is the dial that has been heat treated by hand. The inspiration comes from spacecraft reentering the earth’s atmosphere. This happens at an incredibly high rate of speed – roughly 15,000 miles per hour. At that velocity, the friction caused by the spacecraft as it comes in contact with the atmosphere essentially turns said spacecraft into a small, fast moving, fireball. Have you seen Apollo 13? Then you know basically how this works. A heat shield designed to control that burn keeps astronauts on board safe, and the critical structure of the spacecraft intact. According to Fortis, every Reentry Edition dial is heat treated by hand and completely unique, thanks to the unpredictable nature of the impact of fire on the titanium surface. The heat produces ...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking has always been about mechanics, but also a dialogue between visionaries and collectors who believe in them. For its 10th anniversary, The Limited Edition has chosen to celebrate with a creation that embodies the very spirit of modern artisanal horology. The result is Reality of Time, a collaboration between Pietro Tomajer, Amr Sindi […]
Time+Tide
Limited to 99 pieces, each of these Gothic hand-engraved watches is the result of over 50 hours of work, with each watch being unique.The post Louis Erard joins forces with artisanal engraver Maksym Shavlak on the surprisingly affordable Gravée Main appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Our UK Editor visited the "Top of Europe", where the stone for the new RockWatch was cut from, to get immersed in this new release.The post Tissot took Russell up a mountain to celebrate the return of the RockWatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Norqain expands its popular Freedom 60 Chrono range to include a subtle off-white panda dial limited edition featuring red gold accents.The post Norqain just dropped the perfect autumn watch: the panda-dialled, limited edition Freedom 60 43mm Off-White appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The 20-piece limited edition is inspired by Vacheron Constantin's automaton clock masterpiece, also unveiled today, and combines the highest-end artistry with a brand-new complicated caliber.
Monochrome
A legend in his own lifetime and the name behind countless watch icons designed for other brands, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) also produced masterpieces for his eponymous brand founded in 1969, including the Grande Sonnerie, considered the most sophisticated and complex chiming watch in the world. The current custodian of the Gérald Genta brand is Louis […]
Worn & Wound
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has become synonymous with its technical prowess and record-breaking, ultra-thin designs (and for good reason). The collection has notched a whopping ten world records in just over a decade. However, we’ve also seen a softer side to the Octo through Bulgari’s more artistic interpretations of the iconic design. The most well-known are likely the sketch editions. As the name suggests, these models celebrate the original sketches of the design rendered by the brand’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Yet, these more playful and aesthetic-focused editions have also been molded through collaborations with a wide array of co-creators from architects like Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando to conductors and composers like Lorenzo Viotti. Among the Bulgari Octo mashups, the most striking have come from artists themselves. One of the earliest editions came back in 2015 with the Chinese artist Simon Ma. His collection of 13 piece unique watches explored the horse motif of the Chinese zodiac using traditional Chinese calligraphy techniques handpainted on the dial. Three years later, Bulgari enlisted the Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju to interpret a watch with his signature exploration of waterfalls. The resulting design employed mother of pearl on the dial to create a waterfall effect. Next, the Roman Maison took a more contemporary approach, tapping the Japanese artist Tatsuo Miyajima. This collaboration took a le...
Teddy Baldassarre
Most parts of a watch that you’ll encounter in your pursuit of horological knowledge are names that are fairly familiar and mostly self-explanatory: case, dial, hands, movement. (We run down the gamut of the most important watch parts in this article). But now and then, you may read about, or hear someone referring to, a watch’s rehaut - a somewhat intimidating-sounding French term that might give you pause at first. What is a rehaut, and what is it used for? Read on. Put simply, a rehaut (properly pronounced “Re-OHH” without the hard “T” sound at the end) is the French word for “flange,” which is the English term most often used in its place when discussing watches. It describes the rim between the periphery of the dial and the crystal. Unlike dials and cases and hands, not every watch has one. But for many of those that do, the rehaut is not only a frame that fills in the space between the dial edge and the crystal but also a utilitarian element that can add interest and even useful information to the dial itself. Some watchmakers use the rehaut for staging the hour or minute markers, In the case of chronographs, like the TAG Heuer Carrera featured above, the rehaut can provide a spot for added functional markings like a tachymeter scale (which can use the built-in stopwatch to measure speeds relative to distance) or a pulsimeter (which works with the chronograph to measure heartbeat rates). Other watches might use the rehaut for calendar indications ...
Hodinkee
Introducing the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee, our take on a rare vintage design, featuring a subtle grey motif, upgraded sapphire crystal, water resistance, and a healthy dose of fully luminous printing.
Time+Tide
Hodinkee’s first limited edition since its acquisition by Watches of Switzerland is an understated, extremely considered retro tool watch.The post Nivada Grenchen’s Antarctic GMT returns in a 36mm Hodinkee limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tissot reissues the iconic RockWatch of 1985, now in a larger case but once again made of granite sourced from the Swiss Alps. Although Tissot took a few liberties to suit modern tastes, such upsizing the case to 38 mm and adding monochromatic hands, the new RockWatch is impressive for its fidelity to the original, and retains all of the important details including its one-piece case and dial. Limited to 999 pieces, the RockWatch extends Tissot’s run of mining gems from its back catalogue. Initial thoughts Tissot has been digging through its archives for over a decade now. After excavating the enormously successful PRX in 2021, the colourful Sideral in 2023, and long-dormant Stylist last year, Tissot has finally hit bedrock. Watch cases carved from stone predate even the balance spring, but remained extremely niche and were often quite expensive until Tissot’s original 1985 RockWatch. While originally launched in Alpine marble, the line expanded to include numerous other materials. Historical RockWatches were produced in a variety of materials and featured red and yellow hands inspired by Alpine trail markers. As with most modern reissues, the 38 mm RockWatch is significantly larger than the originals, which were offered in 23 mm, 30 mm, and 33 mm sizes. In addition, modern AR-coated sapphire stands in for the tempered glass crystal of the original. Though larger, the construction is consistent with that of the original with its monobloc case and dial, which are milled...
Time+Tide
The Trilobe Trente-Deux presented at Geneva Watch Days 2025 may just be the most interesting integrated bracelet watch released this year.The post Trilobe’s Trente-Deux might just be the most interesting integrated bracelet watch of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
A year after the relaunch of one of the oldest names in the industry, Favre Leuba is set to introduce its latest collection. During Geneva Watch Days, we sat down with Patrik Hoffmann, CEO for the brand, to learn all the ins and outs concerning the creation of the new Chief Skeleton. Based on the […]
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin continues its grand 270th anniversary celebrations with two interconnected haute horlogerie creations.The post The Quest Continues: Vacheron Constantin unveils a Louvre‑bound astronomical clock plus a complicated companion wristwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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