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Review: the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab Worn & Wound
Oct 22, 2026

Review: the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab

Writing about the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab has proved a difficult task. A tutor once told me to keep the structure of any article, report, or document simple: tell them what you’re about to tell them, tell them, then tell them what you’ve told them. As I sit to translate my thoughts onto screen, I struggle with both the introduction and summary parts. The longer I spend with this interesting piece, the more difficult it becomes. Gagà Laboratorio describe this watch as “extend[ing] its vision into the world of diving watches, interpreting this category through its distinctive design culture and its contemporary understanding of luxury lifestyle”, and although it encompasses both the function of a dive watch and the refinement of a luxury timepiece I find it tough to pin down exactly what the Aqualab is. On a personal level, I either like a watch, or I don’t. I’d either be happy to buy it, or I wouldn’t. Writing about a watch causes me to think more objectively, and evaluating against an archetype is a good way to do that. The fact that I struggle to pigeonhole the Aqualab is a stumbling block. But here goes… Considering the dial separately from the case, or even the strap, feels a little spurious as the overall design flows strongly throughout. Nonetheless, that’s what I’m going to try to do, starting with the time-telling functions. As you’ll no doubt spot at the very first glance, the Aqualab doesn’t make use of ordinary hands. Hours, minutes, an...

In Partnership - From The Source : Gallet Managing Director Erwan Rossignol On 200 Years Of Adventure Hodinkee
Breitling Oct 22, 2026

In Partnership - From The Source : Gallet Managing Director Erwan Rossignol On 200 Years Of Adventure

Throughout history, there are countless examples of the inherent and primal human desire to explore the unknown. This wanderlust is more than the urge to chart a course to new destinations. It's the instinct to break free from the ordinary, leave the noise behind, and chase what lies beyond. Driven by these aspirations, we've built timepieces ready for wherever adventure calls. It's these same principles that have anchored watchmakers and their designs, which have long served as loyal companions to adventurers on their journeys. Gallet is one such brand with two centuries of history tied to adventure within aviation, motorsport, and yachting. On the monumental year of its 200th anniversary, the brand is in a modern renaissance with new collections manufactured by Breitling that are rooted in this lineage while considering the needs of today's voyagers. These adaptable designs feature interchangeable quick-release straps that allow the watches to evolve with every environment and expedition. We sat down with Gallet Managing Director Erwan Rossignol to discuss the brand's re-emergence amidst its historic anniversary. Hodinkee When you're reintroducing 200 years of history, how do you decide which pieces come back and which stay in the archive? ERWAN It's about finding the right balance between honoring the heritage and staying relevant. We never wanted to become a museum brand. We went into the archives and identified the iconic names: the Flying Officer, the Clamshell, the ...

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 22, 2026

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic

Atelier de Chronométrie, the Barcelona-based independent, introduces its first dual-register chronograph, the ADC16, following up on its lauded three-register rattrapantes with a unique gilt-dialled commission powered by a heavily upgraded Valjoux 23. The historical calibre has been reimagined with a new bridge design, assortment, an instantaneous minutes counter, and impressive decoration. And anything that isn’t to your liking can be changed, as customisation is what Atelier de Chronométrie does best. Initial thoughts Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) specialises in bespoke, vintage-inspired watches that are both handsome and substantively hand made. The brand’s debut chronograph, the AdC8 Split-Seconds Chronograph launched in 2020, was sensational, and its first simple chronograph is nearly as ambitious. The practice of refinishing decades-old chronograph movements is nothing new — at times it seems like there’s an almost endless supply of new-old-stock Valjoux chronographs. But AdC substantially transforms the historical architecture to a degree that is genuinely uncommon, crafting its own redesigned bridges, making its own balance wheel, and replacing the stock semi-instantaneous minutes counter with an instantaneous one. Of course, these upgrades come at a cost. With a starting price of €140,000, AdC’s dual-register chronograph costs significantly more than equivalents from the likes of Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, which come equipped with more in...

Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore Hodinkee
Oct 20, 2026

Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore

There's no such thing as overdoing the celebration of the impact of George Daniels on the horological landscape, especially in the year that marks the 100th anniversary of his birth. Coinciding with the opening of IAMWATCH in Singapore, a celebration of the modern independent watchmaking scene, a scene that would likely not exist if not for Daniels—Phillips and The Hour Glass are exhibiting 22 of his watches. That list, which hasn't fully been made public, includes—for the first time—reuniting the Space Traveller I and Daniels' personal Space Traveller II. Photo courtesy Phillips and The Hour Glass. The fact that there will be twenty-two of Daniels' watches in one place is even more remarkable considering that, during his lifetime, Daniels alone made only twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches (the Spring Case Tourbillon and the Four-Minute Tourbillon) before the Millennium and Anniversary done with Roger W. Smith (not accounting for some other pieces that were made by Smith under Daniels' direction). For acolytes of Daniels, lovers of horology, and people who appreciate once-in-a-lifetime opportunities, the exhibition in Singapore is something you can't miss. Luckily, you'll have at least two chances to see the exhibition. Photo courtesy the George Daniels Educational Trust. For even more context, the Space Traveller and Space Traveller II are particularly important watches in the annals of watchmaking history. Both were made in 1982; the first was made and...

Monta Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions to Celebrate their Tenth Anniversary Worn & Wound
Monta Oct 16, 2026

Monta Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions to Celebrate their Tenth Anniversary

For their tenth anniversary, Monta has released a pair of limited editions paying tribute to the Swiss watchmaking town of Neuchâtel, where every Monta from the earliest days of the brand has been developed. The two new watches, variants of the Triumph and Skyquest, offer a bunch of unique Easter eggs for longtime Monta fans while also remaining attractive and accessible timepieces on their own. Like all Montas, they are understated and built on a love of vintage tool watches, but for their tenth anniversary the team has allowed themselves to get a bit reflective in some of the design details, which I think many enthusiasts who’ve been with them from the beginning will appreciate. The Neuchâtel X collection, as it’s known, is marked most obviously by new opaline dials to set them apart from the rest of the Monta lineup. The Skyquest Neuchâtel X features an old school printed layout with beige lume for a vintage effect, as well as custom dial typography for the Monta logo not seen prior to this collection. The Skyquest’s handset is also unique to this watch, and draws on a sword hand style popular with collectors of vintage sports watches.  The Skyquest remains at 40.7mm in diameter and 11.8mm thick. The red and blue 24 hour bezel allows the tracking of a third time zone with the help of Monta’s Caliber M-23, a rebadged Sellita SW330 “caller” style GMT. The case is water resistant to 300 meters and of course is paired with Monta’s excellent bracelet with a...

Urwerk Takes a Quantum Leap with the UR-300 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 15, 2026

Urwerk Takes a Quantum Leap with the UR-300

Urwerk’s latest interpretation of the wandering hours complication ventures beyond classical physics with the UR-300 Time Quantum, which debuts a cleverly constructed jumping display inspired by quantum mechanics. Housed in a sleek new titanium case with a choice of finishes, the UR-300 is almost as cutting-edge on the inside as its futuristic design makes it out to be, with LIGA-formed levers and wheels that catapult the display forwards in the blink of an eye. Initial thoughts According to Urwerk, the design of the UR-300 was inspired by the property of quantum entanglement, which informed the functional design of the new jumping wandering hours module. This explains why when one of the two “atoms” responsible for the hours flips, so does the other. I got a preview of the prototype movement earlier this year and was immediately taken by the new display and the elegance of its mechanism, which takes a familiar look and adds a surprising, jumping twist. The final design of the space ship-like case suits the concept, making it immediately recognisable as an Urwerk. Ultimately, the unique selling proposition of this watch is aesthetic, but it’s an aesthetic that only works thanks to clever engineering. That said, the roughly US$200,000 asking price is steep by the standards of high-end wandering hours complications, whether from Urwerk or larger brands like Audemars Piguet that, admittedly, have vastly different economies of scale. But no brand does futurism quite li...

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2026

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO

The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...

Highlights: Unique Indies at Marteau & Co’s ‘The Encore’ SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2026

Highlights: Unique Indies at Marteau & Co’s ‘The Encore’

Yesterday Marteau & Co kicked off its fourth sale, The Encore, comprising primarily pièce unique watches from independent watchmakers, which is the founding theme of the online-only auctioneer. Beyond its focus on indies, the auctioneer sets itself apart with its “maker’s fee”, which rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold Conceived to allow watchmakers to reap the rewards when their products appreciate, this fee is also known as the artist’s resale right, or droit de suite, a concept that’s been codified into law across Europe for fine art. Marteau & Co’s approach is the first instance of its application in watchmaking, and seems successful so far. Lot 9 – Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevere “Interprétation du Japon” pièce unique Yosuke Sekiguchi is Swiss independent watchmaker, born in Japan and trained in France, who cut his teeth at La Joux-Perret and Christophe Claret before pivoting to restoration work in 2016. Around that time he transformed an orphaned Jules Jürgensen pocket watch movement dating to 1871, casing it into a wristwatch, which inspired the Primevère. We covered the prototype of this watch in depth when it debuted in 2021, and shot another (this time in rose gold with a black enamel) earlier this year, but this stainless steel confirmation with a red enamel sub-dial – a look inspired by the Japanese flag – is perhaps the best looking configuration we’ve seen. Beyond its striking looks, this...

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chanel Acquire 95% Oct 8, 2026

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million

In a surprise move, a consortium led by Montres Journe and comprising Chanel and Pierre Jacques, the former chief executive of De Bethune, has acquired Ebel from its longtime American owners, the Movado Group. According to the deal announcement, the consortium is buying 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 million, with the remaining shares to be retained by Movado. The three-party consortium evidently brings different skills to the table, including the financial firepower of Chanel, the watchmaking know-how of François-Paul Journe, and the operational and managerial expertise of Mr Jacques. Movado, on the other hand, might be relieved to have unloaded Ebel, which it unsuccessfully tried to revive over its two decades of ownership. From left: François-Paul Journe, Efraim Grinberg of Movado, Frédéric Grangié of Chanel, and Pierre Jacques. Image – Pierre Jacques Once a high flying brand that was one of the biggest in Switzerland during its 1980s and 1990s heyday, Ebel was famous for its Sport Classique, often nicknamed “wave”, which featured integrated bracelets resembling a wave. Launched in 1977, the model launched Ebel into the stratosphere, with its workforce growing 15 times and revenue reaching nine figures. Ebel was led during this time by Pierre-Alain Blum, grandson of its founders and a shrewd marketer. In the year just after the Quartz Crisis, Ebel was a luxury giant. Amongst the indicators of Ebel’s success and scale during this period: Cartier turned to Ebel to p...

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Presents Three New Models with its Retrograde Seconds Display Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Presents Three Oct 7, 2026

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Presents Three New Models with its Retrograde Seconds Display

Retrograde complications, in which a hand sweeps across an arc or sector and snaps back to zero, are prized for their theatrical jumping display. While retrograde displays have been around for centuries and were popularised by watchmakers like Lépine and Breguet, a surprisingly wide range of brands still feature them today. H. Moser & Cie.’s Pioneer […]

Auctions: Previewing Marteau’s ‘Encore’ And Antiquorum’s Return To New York, Both This Month Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Oct 6, 2026

Auctions: Previewing Marteau’s ‘Encore’ And Antiquorum’s Return To New York, Both This Month

The fall auction season is already upon us. Or, I guess you could say, it's been here since the strong showing by Sotheby's in Hong Kong—though that technically ended right before the official start of fall. The Cartier Cheich in white gold (which traded hands among dealers and collectors for a few years at far less than that) sold for $3.4 million, setting a record as the most expensive Cartier and most expensive quartz watch ever sold. Weeks later, if you asked me what this means for the market, I'd probably stare at you blankly. Ben would probably do the same, as he's said on the site that it's just hard to make sense of prices both at retail and at auction anymore. Let's chat about that all first. What The Heck Is Going On With The Market? As we head into the bulk of the auctions, I currently feel far less confident telling you where prices will land. I think most prognosticators—myself included—would say that we have to be nearing the height of the bubble for F.P. Journe and A. Lange & Söhne. But then again, over breakfast the other day, a friend asked if I knew someone who'd want a very historically important watch from a more traditional brand that went underpriced nearly 10 years ago and now was available for double that—into the seven figures. Some things (like that very vague story, probably) make sense; some can leave you scratching your head. European Watch Co. has this Tourbillon Pour le Mérite listed for $1,100,000 right now. There was an interestin...

Review: My Five Years on Earth with the Hamilton Cooper (H64615135) WatchRider
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 I Oct 4, 2026

Review: My Five Years on Earth with the Hamilton Cooper (H64615135)

In 2026, twelve years after Interstellar hit cinemas in 2014, I still think it is a masterpiece and probably the greatest film about time travel ever made. The film’s protagonist, Cooper, wears a Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Auto (H64615135), which I had to have as a huge Christopher Nolan fan. Inception had already led me to the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 I reviewed earlier. But why the Coop and not the Murph? The answer is simple: I had an offer I couldn’t refuse back in 2021. The Murph is still on my list and I’ll get one if a similar offer comes along. The 42mm Case: Dimensions and Fit on My Wrist My wrist measures 7.5 inches now, down from 8 inches before my recent weight loss. I had removed one link from the bracelet at 8 inches and have now removed a second. Even on my smaller wrist, the Cooper sits perfectly and looks right to me. The 42 mm Coop on my wrist (7.5 inch) with its original bracelet. With a digital caliper I measured the case at 42 mm without the crown and 45.5 mm including it. The lug tips are 48.2 mm apart, while the span from one bracelet link to the other is 53.4 mm. That extra span across the bracelet is worth knowing when judging the fit from the 42 mm case diameter alone. I measured the watch’s height at 12.5 mm, slightly more than the official thickness of 11.85 mm listed by Hamilton. On my wife’s 6.5 inch wrist, the Cooper still looks good to me. It does not wear as large as the numbers might suggest, so I would tell someon...

These are Six Discontinued Watches We’d Like to See Make a Comeback Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 2, 2026

These are Six Discontinued Watches We’d Like to See Make a Comeback

When you work in a world about objects that measure time, you are confronted daily with the finite nature of things – nothing lasts forever. Speaking a bit less existentially, we see certain products come and go all throughout our lives. A brand changes its logo. A restaurant changes a recipe. A watchmaker retires a favorite model. To us, these changes can feel abrupt – like it happened overnight. However, I can say confidently after many years of factory tours that the watch industry most certainly doesn’t take change lightly. For each watch design we love, there is prototyping, tooling, machining, programming of that machining, training – an endless list of resources and time that go into bringing every detail of a particular model to life. To change that or do away with it altogether is a carefully considered decision that impacts the bottom line. Now, yes, there is a flipside that’s pervasive in this industry – exclusivity – and I am equally certain this comes into play when discussions about discontinuing a collection arise. A huge part of the watch world is fueled on scarcity and hype, and brands know the frenzy that’s likely to ensue when a beloved model is suddenly no longer available. So here I am to give the brands what they want – a beg, a wish, a plea or at least some well-deserved adoration for some discontinued models that we would like to see make a comeback. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph The launch of the original Datograph. Image courtesy A...

Introducing: Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical Hodinkee
Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical Oct 2, 2026

Introducing: Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical

What We Know This week, Hamilton dropped the latest in their series of vintage-inspired watches. But where most brands lean hard on their mid-century offerings for their re-editions, here Hamilton takes a different tack, reaching deep into their archive to resurrect watches so old, they'd be better described as antique rather than vintage. So, it is with the Hamilton American Classic Cushion, which breathes new life into a century-old design. And before you ask, these aren't quartz fashion watches dressed up in vintage clothing; these are tried-and-true hand-wound mechanical watches. The new collection — and it really is a collection, with six models split across two case sizes — is directly inspired by cushion-case watches made by Hamilton in the 1920s. If they seem eerily familiar for watches designed 100 years ago, it may be because Cillian Murphy wore an antique Hamilton cushion watch in Oppenheimer. Here, those watches have been quite respectfully updated for 2026, and though absolute fidelity was not the goal here, these remain easily among the most faithful-feeling reissues we've seen from Hamilton recently. As I mentioned earlier, a big part of the appeal of these watches comes down to the choice to use a hand-winding mechanical movement in these watches, rather than the quartz movements so often used in these small-size vintage reissues. Here, Hamilton is using the H-42, a manual-wind caliber that is, in essence, Hamilton's branded version of the ETA 7001. It'...

Complicated Calatravas Headline Patek Philippe Exhibition SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Exhibition Patek Philippe has Oct 1, 2026

Complicated Calatravas Headline Patek Philippe Exhibition

Patek Philippe has just unveiled a suite of new limited editions for the Italian market, which make their debut at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. While the showstopper is the new instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P, Patek Philippe has expanded its range of complicated Calatravas with the Minute Repeater ref. 7047G, a new variant of a format that launched during Watches & Wonders, and the Perpetual Calendar ref. 7147G, which applies the brand’s familiar cal. 240-based perpetual calendar to a carbon-embossed Calatrava for the first time. Rounding out the selection of limited editions for the Italian market is the white-dialled time-only Calatrava ref. 7007G, a new Aquanaut ref. 5167 in stainless steel, and two variants of the World Time Minute Repeater ref. 5531G with enamel dials produced by Anita Porchet’s studio. Calatrava Minute Repeater ref. 7047G-010 While Patek Philippe is not an official partner of Ferrari, the vivid red dial feels distinctly Italian, suiting the Northern Italian location of the event. The colour makes it part of a trio of Calatravas in the colours of the Italian flag, but also has a connection to the history of this particular branch of the Calatrava family, making the automotive association more interesting than a passing resemblance to a red sports car. This generation of Calatrava, distinguished by its embossed “carbon” pattern dial and contemporary Arabic numerals, dates to the limited edition ref....

First Look - Baume & Mercier Gives the Clifton an Ice-Blue Update (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Baume & Mercier Gives Sep 30, 2026

First Look - Baume & Mercier Gives the Clifton an Ice-Blue Update (Incl. Video)

The Clifton collection was introduced in 2012 and has since become the more classically styled part of Baume & Mercier‘s catalogue, drawing on the design of 1950s watches. In 2018, with the arrival of the Baumatic movement, the series was improved mechanically. Following a substantial redesign in 2025, which introduced more compact proportions, elongated trapezoidal […]

Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection Fratello
IWC Mark-series design silhouette made Sep 30, 2026

Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection

When Earthen Co. debuted with the Summit, I was immediately intrigued. The combination of ceramic cases with the famous IWC Mark-series design silhouette made the watches instantly recognizable and stylish. But the Hong Kong-based brand did not compromise on specs and made them proper tool watches. Considering the friendly price of well under €1,000, it […] Visit Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: Ripe For Release, The BAIT x G-Shock 'Yamagata's Finest' DW5600 Hodinkee
Sep 29, 2026

Introducing: Ripe For Release, The BAIT x G-Shock 'Yamagata's Finest' DW5600

What We Know Whether you eat your banana traditionally or the long way, BAIT sees you and wants you to know your food-oriented horological stylings don't have to be confined to egg timers or rolling some beautiful bean footage. To honor that sometimes green, sometimes yellow, sometimes brown, sometimes in your freezer fruit (which is surprisingly grown in greenhouses in the cold Yamagata Prefecture, where G-Shocks are often made), the new collaboration is a speckled DW5600 like you know and love, just bananafied. What more can you say? The DW5600 is the G-Shock for a lot of people, and measures 42.8mm by 13.4mm in a resin plastic case. Now it's yellow, with brown accents in the text (and on the bezel and even a faux-sticker on the strap) and a just-ripe tip to the strap. The packaging is a special can and box with a brand-new makeshift mascot, "Shawty with Freckles" — think Chiquita banana without the copyright violation. But the made-up brand and made-up bananas have to come from somewhere. That place is BAIT FARMS, and they're releasing a bunch of other apparel (hat, T-shirt, a blue-and-white striped workshirt, and a cotton canvas work jacket) so you can get to work at the farm. Otherwise, it's possible you'll have no bananas. You'll have no bananas today. One of the best features is always the backlight, and this time you get the kissing banana as the background on the watch. Pricing hasn't been shared for the accessories, but we're a watch website, so we'll just stic...

Formex Introduces the New AirField Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces Sep 29, 2026

Formex Introduces the New AirField

Earlier this year when Formex unveiled the Aria, which is unquestionably their most ambitious watch to date, with a price point to match, there was a lot of talk among enthusiasts about what a higher price point could signal. The fear that Formex could be leaving behind more affordable watches (even though, for what the Aria is, it’s quite affordable – but that’s a separate topic) was something we saw articulated all over the Watch Internet. Of course, there was never any real danger of Formex abandoning value oriented watches, and the release of the new AirField, built on their popular field watch format, proves that point.  What we have here is fairly straightforward. The AirField borrows the titanium case architecture of the Formex Field, and adds a reconfigured dial and hand set with a more directly aviation inspired look. The design brief here seems to be immediate legibility and clarity, filtered through a Formex aesthetic in a way that feels similar to how the Formex Field took easy wearing utility in the same direction. The basic touch points of pilot watches that we all understand are very much present here: broad, sword shaped hands, matched with clean and easy to read Arabic numerals (filled with lume, of course). Formex has even included the traditional 12:00 triangle in this dial execution.  The case measures 40mm in diameter and Formex says it weighs just 54 grams. It also has a surface treatment that the brand claims results in a surface hardness rat...

Seiko freshens up its Seiko 5 field GMT with two new colours Time+Tide
Seiko freshens up Sep 24, 2026

Seiko freshens up its Seiko 5 field GMT with two new colours

When considering a highly functional, reliable, no-nonsense timepiece that doesn’t break the bank, Seiko 5 undoubtedly comes to mind. Seiko also changed the game for affordable complications when it released the Seiko 5 GMT in 2022, making mechanical dual-time watches accessible to a whole new audience. Seiko’s first foray into this territory took the form of the … Continued

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin s 30th Anniversary Overseas Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition

What We Know The hottest Vacheron Constantin collection is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this year, and the brand is paying tribute with a new version of one of my personal favorite watches from the brand. Sure, earlier this year we got the return of the 2500V, which is celebration enough, but the new limited-edition azure blue Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a limited edition that honors the first generation of the collection. Below is a picture of the current third generation and the 1996 first generation, itself a successor of sorts to the 222 in 1977 and the 1975 Chronomètre Royal before it. Yes, Vacheron has done a blue version of this watch before—and has released a few other colors recently, including a bold red—but now the same 41.5mm by 8.1mm white gold case gets a more muted, less saturated azure blue soleil and lacquer treatment, with white and light blue printed text and applied indices with Super-LumiNova. The movement is the same Caliber 1120 QP/1 automatic movement that is only 4.05 mm thick. Yes, other brands are slowly introducing perpetual calendars with a crown-adjustment system, but while this still uses caseband pushers, the benefit is a watch that measures 1.5mm thinner than the similarly wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The watch runs at a slightly slower 2.75 Hz and has only 40 hours of power reserve, but again, at the thin profile you get, the wearability should more than make up for any small downsides. Another huge benefit i...

Introducing: Grönefeld Brings Back Its Four Greatest Hits With The New 1941 Quadrivium Hodinkee
Grönefeld Brings Back Sep 23, 2026

Introducing: Grönefeld Brings Back Its Four Greatest Hits With The New 1941 Quadrivium

What We Know It's always a great day when we get news from Bart and Tim Grönefeld. But this time, the news came with a lot of anticipation, as I've been getting a lot of texts and messages from people around the world asking what, exactly, the brothers were teasing on Instagram. First, I couldn't tell anyone, even if I did know—that's how embargoes work—but second, I only found out this morning. However, the brothers' new Quadrivium, with a 7.5-second remontoire with exposed governor, a one-minute flying tourbillon, central jumping seconds, and a power-reserve indicator, certainly was worth the anticipation. The watch combines highlights from the brand's history, especially the discontinued pieces customers kept asking for. The deadbeat seconds from the original One Hertz in 2010 are here. So is the GPHG-winning Parallax Tourbillon (which had a power reserve indicator) from 2014. Finally, the Remontoire was launched in 2016 and eventually became one of the earliest Hodinkee limited editions. All of this comes together in a compact 40mm by 11.3mm case, made in either tantalum or platinum, with the brand's "1941" collection design language: a polished, domed bezel; incut flanks and lugs; and a stepped shape to the downturned lugs as well. The dial is also quintessential Grönefeld, with a frosted main surface, hand-beveled stainless steel elements, and polished, multi-faceted white gold hour markers, topped with blued hands. The movement side is also exactly what you'd ...

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering Hodinkee
Panerai Honors Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering

What We Know Don't call it a comeback—they've been here for years, but if today's release is any indication, Panerai seems on the verge of "having a moment," or whatever you'd call it in a hyper-masculine, intensely Italian way. The feedback for a while, even from people who love the brand, is that the brand (which was on the forefront or even progenitor of the large watch trend that dominated the early 2000s) hadn't adapted as well or as quickly as big watch brands. Size was one sticking point; price another. Privately, I have heard multiple people say that if Panerai could fight it out closer to Tudor pricing, they'd be printing money at a new clip. Today, the brand is showing that it's listening, with three new (and newly smaller) 42mm Luminors at an attractive price. Let's go back to 1993, to the pre-Vendome days of Panerai. Brand representatives stood aboard the Italian destroyer Durand de la Penne (D560) to revive the Luminor's design language—the big case, bold numerals, and unusual crown lock—and bring it to a civilian audience. The original references, Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A and Luminor Marina Militare ref. 5218-202/A, became collectible icons, and the latter was revived last year with the PAM05218, in a 44mm case with a new automatic movement. If you looked closely at that caliber—the P.980 with hours, minutes, and hacking seconds—you'd see it was small enough to fit in an even smaller case. Yes, it's similar in architecture to a few in-group IWC and B...

Business News: Watches And Wonders 2027 To Feature More New Brands Including Berneron And Porsche Design Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Sep 17, 2026

Business News: Watches And Wonders 2027 To Feature More New Brands Including Berneron And Porsche Design

Watches and Wonders, the year's largest and most significant horology event, held each spring in Geneva, will welcome ten more brands for the 2027 edition, including Berneron, Porsche Design, and Singer Reimagined, bringing the total to 75. This new group will join Breitling's House of Brands, which announced earlier this year that it will participate.   Watches and Wonders organizers said the diversity of the 13 brands attending the show for the first time in 2027 underscores the varied slate of watch industry participants now part of the event, ranging from Rolex, Cartier and Patek Philippe, to now Stollenwurm, an upstart Swiss high-horology marque named for a mythical creature and founded by a former Boston-based biotech executive.   Berneron will also join the roster for Watches and Wonders 2027. Launched in 2022 and led by designer (and ex-Breitling executive) Sylvain Berneron, the brand has earned accolades from the industry and collectors; its limited production, shaped case, and full-gold movement pieces have soared in value on the secondary market. A rare example of the Mirage in 34mm, the white gold Viridian with a chrysoprase dial, sold by the brand to a client for about CHF 51,000, recently fetched $521,400 on the auction site Loupe This.  The Berneron Quantième is the brand's second model line.Photo credit: Mark Kauzlarich  Berneron recently told Hodinkee in an interview that the prices paid for his watches on the secondary market are "unsustainable," and...

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models Fratello
Rolex Models When it comes Sep 17, 2026

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models

When it comes to vintage watches, few brands have as much depth as Rolex. Over more than a century, the company has produced an enormous range of models, references, and variations that have become firmly established among collectors. From tool watches built for specific purposes to understated everyday models, there’s plenty to explore beyond the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models to read the full article.