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Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1

TAG Heuer is a name familiar to many of my fellow Australians. It’s a popular brand down under. Even so, it’s one from which I have never owned a watch except for an original quartz Formula 1 from the 1980s. This needs to change someday, but today’s article features a watch I could never hope […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 to read the full article.

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca

It’s no secret that I really like Parmigiani Fleurier. The brand’s watches are an incredible expression of an ethos of modern watchmaking that many brands seem to aspire to but which few manage to achieve. The last few years have seen Parmigiani Fleurier really hone in on the core of their collection, stripping away many of the extraneous models in their catalog, and focusing instead on producing solid, consistent, and identifiably ‘Parmigiani’ watches. Of those, possibly my favorite has been the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, a unique take on the idea of a travel watch, and one that immediately caught enthusiast’s attention when it was introduced three years ago. Now, Parmigiani Fleurier is introducing the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca, the first new take on the GMT Rattrapante since its introduction in 2022, and an excellent one at that. The headline here is that Parmigiani has swapped the blue dial of the original steel release for a wonderful green hue they’re calling Verzasca. The blue-green color is inspired by the water found in Val Verzasca, but while the reference may be specific, the color will be familiar to anyone who has spent time near any number of bodies of water. To me, it reminds me of the deep water off the coast of Maine. Regardless of your point of reference, one thing that’s certain is that the color works. Like the earlier releases in this line, the stainless steel case of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca measures a very reasonable...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions

The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...

Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009 Fratello
Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Mar 31, 2025

Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009

When Grand Seiko launched the first Tentagraph in 2023, it was also the brand’s first all-mechanical chronograph. Two years later, two new Tentagraph models debut - the Evolution 9 SLGC007, which is a new colorway of the 2023 SLGC001, and the bold Tokyo Lion SLGC009, a watch in the Sport Collection. Yes, Grand Seiko presents […] Visit Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009 to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet’s first dial colour is cemented in ceramic with a trio of Royal Oak ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ models Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s first dial colour Mar 31, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s first dial colour is cemented in ceramic with a trio of Royal Oak ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ models

Audemars Piguet has finally perfected its 'Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50' colour in ceramic, which is based on the first Royal Oak dial from 1972.The post Audemars Piguet’s first dial colour is cemented in ceramic with a trio of Royal Oak ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 Fratello
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 Another Mar 30, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081

Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we’re matching up two professional titanium dive watches that come in under €5K. The first is the recently introduced Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081. This new version of the popular Marinemaster was released to celebrate 60 years of Seiko dive watches. The second is the Sinn T50, which debuted in […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 to read the full article.

DOXA Adds a New GMT to the Collection Worn & Wound
Doxa Adds Mar 26, 2025

DOXA Adds a New GMT to the Collection

Like Brendan Fraser’s career, the Polaroid camera, and even Crystal Pepsi, sometimes a renaissance of a once-beloved product can cause a lot of excitement in the market. I have a suspicion the same will be said of DOXA’s new SUB 250T GMT, which will be debuting at Watches and Wonders this year.  As the name suggests, this is the first GMT function for the SUB collection in twenty years, answering the prayers for fans of the Swiss brand who have been asking for this configuration over the last two decades. With this latest release, we see a SUB design that’s true to its heritage (having been inspired by the SUB 750T GMT from 2006), but upgraded to meet contemporary needs – and in a whopping 18 new references. Starting from a design perspective, the real beauty of the SUB 250T GMT is that it hasn’t strayed too far away from its existing language, while still mixing form and functionality to give the people what they want. With nine colorways to choose from and in two strap options (a color-matched FKM rubber strap or a DOXA stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet), each variation complements the 40mm stainless steel case and bezel. But, of course, this is a watch that’s meant to be worn – and put to the limit. With the new GMT function, it’s just waiting for an adventure. Sure, it’s a sports watch, but it’s one that’s been made to adapt to the wearer’s lifestyle. Heading on a plane for a meeting you can’t miss? Catching a few rays or diving am...

First Look – The new Maurice Lacroix 1975 Collection of Elegant Watches (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix 1975 Collection Mar 25, 2025

First Look – The new Maurice Lacroix 1975 Collection of Elegant Watches (Incl. Video)

Maurice Lacroix was founded in 1975 by the Desco von Schulthess watchmaking company, which produced watches for various labels and third parties before that. In just a couple of short years, the name Maurice Lacroix became so popular that a decision was made to focus solely on the newly founded brand. By 1980, all third-party […]

Introducing – A New Grey Colourway for the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Monochrome
Union Glashütte Mar 24, 2025

Introducing – A New Grey Colourway for the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph

Union Glashütte, a brand owned by the Swatch Group, is known for crafting reliable timepieces that blend emotional appeal with good value. One of the notable collections is the Belisar Chronograph series, which combines retro inspiration with modern performance and design. The latest addition to this lineup stays true to the specifications of its predecessors. […]

Interview – Sylvain Dolla, CEO of Tissot, on the success of PRX and the new PRC 100 Solar Monochrome
Hamilton bringing fresh energy Mar 7, 2025

Interview – Sylvain Dolla, CEO of Tissot, on the success of PRX and the new PRC 100 Solar

Founded in 1853, Le Locle, Switzerland, Tissot is renowned for delivering quality Swiss-made watches at truly competitive prices. Sylvain Dolla took the helm of the brand in 2020, after leading Hamilton, bringing fresh energy to the brand – most notably, with the successful launch of the PRX, which has now grown into a complete, coherent […]

So You’re New To Watches And Want To Buy An Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch It Mar 4, 2025

So You’re New To Watches And Want To Buy An Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

It is no surprise that we receive quite a few messages concerning the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Over 500 articles on Fratello cover this chronograph, which results in some questions, especially from first-time buyers who are asking for some guidance when buying their first Omega Speedmaster. The classic Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Despite wearing my Speedmaster […] Visit So You’re New To Watches And Want To Buy An Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch to read the full article.

Introducing the SJX Podcast SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s investment Feb 27, 2025

Introducing the SJX Podcast

We are pleased to announce the launch of the SJX Podcast, which is now an official part of our programming. The podcast will be regular and topical (though the very first instalment was an ad hoc collector conversation). In the official inaugural episode, editor Brandon Moore and SJX talk about the state of the industry and Swiss watch export figures, the developments at LVMH watches, including Louis Vuitton’s investment in a state-of-the-art manufacture and Zenith’s evolution into a watchmaker’s watchmaker. They also look ahead to Watches & Wonders 2025, and discuss what’s on the cards for brands big and small. The podcast is now live on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube. Addition March 8, 2025: YouTube link added.

Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special! Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Looking Feb 26, 2025

Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special!

The first association for many on hearing the word "Seiko" is likely to be affordable quartz watches or automatic divers. However, Seiko offers much more, particularly in terms of luxury timepieces. Grand Seiko, which became its own brand under the Seiko Group in 2017, produces some of the most competitive luxury watches on the market, rivaling the best Swiss brands at prices that are still (somewhat) attainable.

First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59

Last year, Audemars Piguet announced the end of the calibre 5134, the automatic movement that has powered most of its modern perpetual calendar watches for the past 10 years – mostly, the classic RO Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which performed its swan song with a limited edition made with John Mayer. But the 5134 was not […]

Editorial – Who Invented the Balance Spring? Reaffirming the Crucial Role of Christiaan Huygens Monochrome
Feb 21, 2025

Editorial – Who Invented the Balance Spring? Reaffirming the Crucial Role of Christiaan Huygens

An article by Rob Memel, antiquarian horologist, professional certified watchmaker since 1984, and author of the book The Development Towards Huygens’ Spiral Spring (1660-1676), from which this article is a summary. About two years ago, I embarked on an in-depth investigation into another watch-related invention by Christiaan Huygens: the spiral spring on a balance wheel. […]

Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic in Watches SJX Watches
Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic Feb 20, 2025

Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic in Watches

Hublot has taken the covers off the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, which the brand says is the world’s first timepiece to incorporate multi-coloured ceramic. While the case is fashioned from black ceramic, the standout feature is a bezel crafted in grey and blue ceramic, or more specifically, a dark grey ceramic base spotted with blue circles. Though the technical details of the two-colour ceramic are scarce at the moment – the patent is still pending according to Hublot – it appears the unique characteristic of the material lies in the fact that it is ceramic that has been coloured with two distinct pigments, as opposed to a single colour ceramic with an additional colour added. Initial thoughts For all of the criticism levelled at Hublot, the brand undeniably does well in materials innovation. Amongst its proprietary materials is Magic Gold, a gold-ceramic composite that was the first scratch-proof 18k yellow gold alloy. The Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic underscores this focus on materials. Granted, the watch isn’t for everyone. I find the weird, spotty bezel unappealing, but the potential of the material and technology behind it is certainly interesting, especially if applied in a more stylish manner. The material is likely still experimental, since the new Big Bang is a limited edition of just 20 pieces with a hefty price tag of US$33,000, so it might take some time to see it deployed on a wider basis beyond the bezel. Magic Ceramic Apart from the bezel, the new ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Fratello
Chopard L.U.C XPS Good morning Feb 16, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS

Good morning, dear Fratelli. It’s Sunday again, which means we’re pitting two watches against each other. This week, Daan defends the recently released Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026. In the other corner, it’s Thomas with the Chopard L.U.C XPS ref. 61948-5001. That’s right; after the battle of the integrated-bracelet sports watches last week, get […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS to read the full article.

Review: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005 Feb 14, 2025

Review: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005

Grand Seiko announced in September last year a vintage remake inspired by the 45GS of 1968, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation, which was launched as the SLGW005 in steel and the SLGW004 in yellow gold. In contrast to the many recent Grand Seiko releases with modern styling, the 45SG Re-creation is refreshing in being a revival of an iconic design, right down to the double-signed dial. Yet, the model also sports the brand’s latest generation manual-wind movement, the 9SA4. As the more accessible model of the two – retail is a little under US$10,000 – the steel SLGW005 deserves a closer look to understand how it smartly melds old and new. Initial thoughts Aesthetically, the SLGW005 stands out as a distinctively vintage design, from the case and dial to the buckle. This is all the more so since it is the first release since Grand Seiko’s rebranding in 2017, when all models eliminated “Seiko” in favour of only “Grand Seiko”, to feature the brand’s historical double-signed “Seiko” and “GS” dial. I am personally fond of this detail, as the double logo balances the dial aesthetically. But preferences aside, the external components are indeed excellent, from the dial work down to the faceted case. Despite the traditional exterior, the internals are modern – almost paradoxically so. Sporting the brand’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, the 9SA4 inside is entirely different than the 1960s cal. 4520 found in the 45GS. On paper, it is a high-s...