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Sarpaneva Marks 20 Years with the Stardust SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Mar 9, 2023

Sarpaneva Marks 20 Years with the Stardust

Having built a reputation with original timepieces characterised by Neo-Gothic flair, Stepan Sarpaneva celebrates his 20th year in watchmaking with a pair in typical Sarpaneva style – Stardust and Stardust “Nostromo”. Limited to twenty pieces each, the duo embody Sarpaneva’s trademark aesthetic styling in their hand-finished, open-worked dials and Korona case.  Initial thoughts I have long admired Sarpaneva for being different. The man has a unique and often quirky vision of watchmaking that is evident in his timepieces, which are also finished well in terms of cases and dials. While Sarpaneva has not done much in terms of movements, his original approach is very much independent watchmaking. While different from its past offerings, both Stardust variants are still recognisably Sarpaneva with their radial dial motif and sculpted case. Stardust (left) and Stardust “Nostromo” The iridescent colours of the Stardust are not exactly novel, but it is a different take on the fashionable “rainbow” watch and it is certainly executed well since Sarpaneva does impressive dial work in its price segment. On the other hand, the dark colours of the Stardust “Nostromo” give it a more sci-fi feel that goes well with Sarpaneva’s house style. Both Stardust model are priced at €16,500 each, making them slightly affordable than the comparably spec’ed Valterri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” released last year. While hefty on its face, the price tag is easily justifi...

Farer Moonphase is All Farer, and All Moon Worn & Wound
Farer Moonphase Mar 3, 2023

Farer Moonphase is All Farer, and All Moon

Farer has revealed a new collection called the Moonphase this week, and in true Farer style, have put their own unique spin on the design across a trio of references, all while acknowledging historic British figures in the process. The Moonphase collection features a big personality within a trim 38.5mm case that’s not shy on details itself, but the star of the show is undoubtedly the enormous moon depicted within the aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. Each example features a slightly different moon, inspired by the broad range of colors it can adopt depending on the conditions. The Farer Moonphase makes a big impression at a glance thanks to the larger moonphase aperture situated above the hand stack, but below and within the hour markers. It’s a similar layout to the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moonphase, among others, however Farer is bringing the design to a far more accessible and, dare we say, fun execution with their Moonphase. Each phase the moon goes through is indexed along the top arc of the aperture, providing a welcome practical nod to the romantic complication. The moon itself differs between each of the watches, going from light pink in the Burbidge, to warm yellow in the Halley, and finally a neutral eggshell in the Eddington. The depictions reference the different hues the moon takes to our eyes, viewing it through different atmospheric conditions and angles. The moons themselves are hand-painted in Geneva using grade OL X1 Super-LumiNova. Fa...

The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode Worn & Wound
Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks Mar 1, 2023

The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode

The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...

The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy Time+Tide
Omega s bronze gold Feb 28, 2023

The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy

New T50 watches with new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy comprised of 12.5% solid gold (Omega’s bronze gold is 37.5% for comparison) Standard-production models use it strictly for the bezel, limited edition with decorative grinding dial has Goldbronze bezel and case 41mm x 12.3mm x 47mm dimensions, 500m depth rating, SW 300-1 movement. German manufacturer Sinn … ContinuedThe post The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite Time+Tide
Feb 27, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite

Hanhart’s Pioneer One range is getting even more modern with a black PVD case The almost-iridescent blue dial matches the suede leather strap The dimensions are still large like a traditional flieger at 42mm Heritage can get you far in the watch world, but a brand can’t rest on its laurels forever. The Pioneer 417 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold Time+Tide
Casio ak” Feb 26, 2023

The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold

The Casio G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now available in a Full-Metal yellow gold hued case and bracelet Casio are catching up with the modding community slowly, but with more originality and authenticity Solar charging and Bluetooth connectivity make it an extremely practical watch It may have taken Casio several years to catch up to the modding … ContinuedThe post The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6 Revolution
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Feb 24, 2023

The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6

In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter? Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 24, 2023

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter?

Those who are very new to appreciating watches may be surprised, and a bit confused, upon reading about a watch that boasts “21 jewels” and afterward looking it over and finding no diamonds or emeralds or any other precious stones on its dial or case. Many watches do, in fact, offer such adornments, but those are not what’s being referred to on a watch’s spec sheet in the “jewels” column; to clarify, “jewels” in horological parlance are not shorthand for “jewelry.” A watch’s jewels are, in fact, not even really intended to be seen and admired. Like the screws and gears and tiny wheels inside a watch’s movement, they are there to do a job, to play a vital and functional role in the smooth operation of a watch’s timekeeping.  So what are jewels in a watch movement, anyway, and what are they for? And do watchmakers really use valuable, precious gems as workhorse components inside these micromechanical engines? On the latter question, well, yes and no. As to the former question, read on.  The movement in a mechanical watch is a machine with lots of moving metal parts that tend to rub and grind against one another, creating friction that can wear down these components, adversely affecting the performance of the watch and ultimately shortening its functional life. The challenge in the early days of watchmaking was finding a substance harder than these metal parts to place at the vital pivot points to reduce metal-on-metal wear and tear. The answer pr...

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Feb 24, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery

Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold’s faceted case is inspired by the lines of stealth aircraft design 45mm in diameter, 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case. Flying Tourbillon. Hours and minutes. Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicium. When delving into the romanticism of traditional high-end watchmaking, we often discuss hand-craftsmanship. But, … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Grail Watch 6: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody in Blue” Revolution
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody Feb 23, 2023

Up Close with Grail Watch 6: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody in Blue”

Grail Watch is proud to present Grail Watch 6, a dream collaboration of magnificent proportions! We are extremely privileged to partner with independent watchmaker De Bethune to create a deep blue-dialled version of their gorgeous DB25 Perpetual Calendar in a reduced case size of 40mm, first introduced at Geneva Watch Days 2022. Our version is […]

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Accutron Day & Date Next Feb 23, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille First up this week is this beautiful minimalistic Omega Seamaster DeVille presentation watch in 14k yellow gold circa 1966. The solid gold case looks clean and unpolished, with super slim straight lugs. The back has an IBM presentation engraving dated 7/21/66. The champagne dial looks original and nearly perfect, with simple gold stick hour markers and hands. The Omega signed crown is correct. The watch comes with an Omega metal presentation box that shows lots of discoloration, which is common on these boxes. Seller states the watch runs well, no picture of the movement as the case is the front-loading type. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Accutron Day & Date Next up is a really cool and unusual Accutron. This model is unique with its “up-down” day/date configuration. The day is read vertically and is positioned just below the 12, and the date window is at 6. I love the way this dial design is so symmetrical. The dial does seem to have a light, fairly even patina that is not unpleasant. The square hour markers are lume filled and match the big stick hands nicely. Correct signed crown at 4 o’clock. The caliber 2182 tuning fork movement is clean ...

Vintage Watch Restoration: Should You Or Not? A Guide To The Oft-Controversial World Of Making Things Worse By Trying To Make Them Better – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 19, 2023

Vintage Watch Restoration: Should You Or Not? A Guide To The Oft-Controversial World Of Making Things Worse By Trying To Make Them Better – Reprise

Deciding whether or not to restore a vintage watch is a tough decision to make. The internet is awash with tales of watches butchered by an incompetent independent watchmaker or, worse still, the brand itself. Even more confusing is deciding which options offered should be accepted. Refinish the case? Change the hands? Replace the crystal? Here is some help for you.

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut Deployant
Accutron Astronaut DEPLOYANT - Feb 18, 2023

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut

One of the most notable aspects of the Bulova Astronaut Re-Edition is its design. The watch features a 41mm stainless steel case with a black dial and luminous hands and markers, similar to the original watch. It also features a distinctive Day/Night bezel which helps the wearer track two time zones simultaneously. The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, which ironically makes it no longer the 'most accurate watch in the world'; a phrase used to describe the original 1968 model with the 214HN sub-caliber.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Mystica is the ultimate late Valentine’s Day gift Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Mystica Feb 17, 2023

The Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Mystica is the ultimate late Valentine’s Day gift

Second in a series of five piece uniques from the Grand Feu Collection Cathedral gongs, continuous chiming sequence and extensive skeletonisation Grand feu enamel on the hunter’s caseback and signature engraving of the white gold case The latest in a series of five piece uniques hailing from the Grand Feu Collection is the Parmigiani Fleurier … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Mystica is the ultimate late Valentine’s Day gift appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years of the Fifty Fathoms with Tech Gombessa Worn & Wound
Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years Feb 16, 2023

Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years of the Fifty Fathoms with Tech Gombessa

This year marks the 70th anniversary of one of the most important dive watches ever made, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. To celebrate the occasion, Blancpain will be releasing a trio of Fifty Fathom “Acts”, the first of which was released in January featuring a new 42mm case. The second act of this anniversary year is celebrating Blancpain’s 10 year relationship with Gombessa diving expeditions, and the release of the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa watch, a modern take on the platform built with a specific purpose in mind. We got our hands on the Tech Gombessa during its launch (which was hosted by our friend Jason Heaton), and discovered a few surprising takeaways.  To fully appreciate the Tech Gombessa, an understanding of the Gombessa diving expeditions is in order. Led by highly decorated wildlife photographer and diver (and Nikon ambassador), Laurent Ballesta, the Gombessa expeditions have studied some of the most elusive marine life and phenomenon on earth. The goals of these expeditions are centered around three pillars: a scientific mystery, a diving challenge and the promise of unprecedented images. To date, there have been five such expeditions, all underwritten by Blancpain, and each producing a wealth of knowledge and stunning visuals. Ballesta was named Wildlife Photographer of the Year in 2017, 2021, and 2022 for his efforts. In order to study and capture the underwater locations and wildlife, the team utilizes closed-circuit rebreather diving techniques, a...

Autodromo Enters a New Class with the Group C Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2023

Autodromo Enters a New Class with the Group C

Automotive inspired watches are never easy to pull off, but if there’s one brand that’s consistently done just that, it’s undoubtedly Autodromo. Their watches, from the Vallelunga to the Group B, all convey a deep knowledge and passion of the underlying inspiration in ways that aren’t always immediately apparent. Whether it’s the shape of the curvature of the case, or a specific colorway used, these watches go above and beyond what you’d expect. Today, Autodromo opens a new chapter in this story with the release of the Group C, a watch that will sit alongside the Group B, all while imparting a very different impression of the racing classes for which they are named.  Group C as a category of racing was introduced by the FIA in 1982, and would produce some of the most iconic endurance racing cars of all time before its shuttering in 1993. Certainly defining cars of their era, which included the likes of the Jaguar XJR-8, the Sauber C9, the Porsche 956, and of course, the screaming Mazda 787B. These cars all came in something of a transition period for racing cars, with a slew of new rules and regulations meant to bring the sport more inline with Formula 1 quickly ushering in the class’ demise just prior to the 1993 championship race was due to be run at Magny Cours (though the cars were allowed entry to the 1994 running of the 24 Hours of LeMans, and would take the top 4 spots overall, with the Porsche 962 car 36 taking the win). This is the deep pool from wh...

Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Feb 15, 2023

Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Review

What we like: Dial is a real head turner3D Printed Carbon case is a winnerMassive five-day power reserve What we don’t like: Some may find it to be expensiveThe fingerprints easily show on the crystal Some may not appreciate the 3D-printed case Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8/10 2022 was a big year for the independent Swiss brand Oris. Amongst the brand’s major updates to some of its collections was the continued release of its limited edition timepieces based on ecological conservation. The last major release for Oris in 2022 was the Coulson Limited edition, a watch created from the latest partnership with Coulson Aviation. Alongside creating luxury timepieces, Oris also works in a variety of different areas to bring “Change for the Better” for the planet and its people. Oris is also now independently certified as a climate-neutral company, with the watch brand working closely with other pioneering agencies to bring the change required to make the world a better place.  One of these agencies is Coulson Aviation, which Oris just recently partnered up with. Coulson Aviation is a family-run independent company based in Canada that sends out pilots, planes, and also much-needed equipment to areas of the world that are heavily affected by wildfires. The resources and help provided are split between the US and California for the Northern Hemisphere summer and for the Southern Hemisphere summer, Australia and...

On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive Feb 14, 2023

On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers

In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction we take a look at 3 very different, and very exciting watches that aren’t afraid to have a little fun. Lume dials might be a little hit or miss, but when they hit, they really hit. Pair a lume dial with the amazing case of this Citizen Promaster Dive and you fall very much on the ‘hit’ side of that equation. We offer our initial impressions on this unexpectedly awesome diver, as well as a popular new release from Meraud, and a trail watch from up and coming brand Circula. Enjoy the full video below and hit the introductions and first looks at these watches after the break. Check out our hands-on look at the Meraud Antigua right here for more details on that watch, which launched last week. This is one of those rare hand-wound chronographs that walks a fine line between heritage inspiration and funky uniqueness and it works all around. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are Feb 13, 2023

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle

Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...

Up Close with Grail Watch 5: Chronoswiss Opus Blue Revolution
Chronoswiss Feb 12, 2023

Up Close with Grail Watch 5: Chronoswiss Opus Blue

Grail Watch returns with its fifth collaboration, a coalescence of two key chapters: the revival of a past icon reimagined with an incandescent luminous signature. We took the world’s first serially-produced self-winding skeletonized chronograph, the Chronoswiss Opus, and modernized its officer-style case in grade 5 titanium with an electric blue CVD-treatment. The translucency created by […]

INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra Feb 11, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra teams up with the popular Formula E racing team. The Mahindra Racing logo can be seen etched into the dial pattern. The red and black case is made from upcycled ocean plastic. The conversation of recycled plastic cases has been by and large overshadowed by the popularity of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-SHOCK’s Latest Titanium Release Combines the Aesthetics of a Circuit Board with Camouflage to Great Effect Worn & Wound
Feb 10, 2023

G-SHOCK’s Latest Titanium Release Combines the Aesthetics of a Circuit Board with Camouflage to Great Effect

G-SHOCK has had a string of successful releases over the past few years with full metal watches that incorporate some type of interesting, laser engraved design. It turns out that the G-SHOCK case and bracelet is a surprisingly versatile canvas for compelling camo designs, sci-fi influenced schematics, and the touch of an actual artist. With this latest release, the design influence is actually G-SHOCK itself, using the design of their own circuit board as a jumping off point for a very contemporary watch that pays tribute to the brand’s roots.  The G-SHOCK Circuit Camouflage, reference GMWB5000TCC1, is billed as a titanium version of the very first G-SHOCK, the famed DW-5000C. You’ll note that the new watch shares the same iconic case lines as that early G-SHOCK release, just in titanium, rather than resin. The camo-like design that has been laser etched on the case and bracelet is a real G-SHOCK insider’s treat. The pattern is lifted from the 3459 circuit board found in the GMWB5000 series watches, and has been meticulously recreated using some fairly high end manufacturing techniques.  The base of the watch is a coating of black IP. This ion plating technique has been the go-to process for G-SHOCK in virtually all of their recent coated metal watches. The circuit board pattern is drawn twice using a laser irradiation process, once prior to the black IP coating, and then again after. According to G-SHOCK, this process gives the pattern a depth that would not othe...

Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop! Worn & Wound
Citizen s Fully Lumed Promaster Feb 10, 2023

Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop!

Originally introduced in 1982, Citizen’s iconic Professional Diver watch achieved the highest depth rating of any watch in the world, up to an incredible 1300 meters. The initial release of the watch in the 1980s featured many of the same design elements as its modern predecessor, including the lug-less case, smooth lines, and chunky 60-click bezel. Today, we’re proud to announce that a new version of the watch is now available in the Windup Watch Shop, and this one features a fully-lumed dial. Originally introduced in 1982, Citizen’s iconic Professional Diver watch achieved the highest depth rating of any watch in the world, up to an incredible 1300 meters. The initial release of the watch in the 1980s featured many of the same design elements as its modern predecessor, including the lug-less case, smooth lines, and chunky 60-click bezel. Today, we’re proud to announce that a new version of the watch is now available in the Windup Watch Shop, and this one features a fully-lumed dial. The post Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop! appeared first on Worn & Wound.