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Big Bang Hublot

Hublot's 2005 "Art of Fusion" chronograph that reshaped 21st-century luxury.

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Jan 8, 2025

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches

Panerai might be the most in-your-face example of the quintessential Tool Watch That Made Good as a Luxury Item. Unlike many other contenders for that title, a Panerai watch today looks essentially the same as it did back in the 1940s, when Italian navy frogmen wore them into underwater combat. Few concessions have been made to modern tastes and trends: the luminous material on the dials is no longer radioactive (inarguably a positive change), Rolex no longer makes the cases, and you no longer have to be a naval commando to own one, but otherwise the relatively few models that make up the Panerai family have stubbornly adhered to their military-issue origins. It is this adherence that makes Panerai, for many, an all-or-nothing proposition — either you’re in the brand’s worldwide, rabid coterie of fans and collectors, proudly self-dubbed the Paneristi, or you roll your eyes at the notion of ever owning one: they’re too big, too flashy, too clunky, too Stallone.  This article, the latest in our series of Price of Admission guides, is aimed at those aspiring to join the former group — in other words, those wishing to pull the trigger on their first Panerai but possibly intimidated by the breadth of choices — and, of course, by the ticket price for entry to that first tier of Paneristi-land. Without further ado, let’s find the most affordable Panerai watches in each of the current product families. RADIOMIR The Radiomir, first conceived in 1935 but tracing its m...

The New Type 9 is the Smallest and Most Affordable Ressence Yet Worn & Wound
Ressence Yet Dec 18, 2024

The New Type 9 is the Smallest and Most Affordable Ressence Yet

A few weeks ago we told you about the Ressence Type 8 Indigo, a high craft variation on the most simple and accessible Ressence model. It turns out that the Type 8 only held the distinction of being the brand’s entry level timepiece for a few days after the launch of the Indigo, as the new Type 9 which the brand debuted mere hours later now represents the cleanest point of entry to the brand. The Type 9 has much of the same minimalist appeal as the Type 8 (the display is as straightforward as Ressence gets and not materially different from the Type 8) but the new watch offers a significant change to the case, and should give enthusiasts and collectors with a smaller wrist something to consider if they’ve ever balked at a Ressence for being a little too big.  This is the smallest Ressence yet, coming in at 39mm in diameter in titanium. Unlike the Type 8, a 43mm watch with a flying saucer like shape, the Type 9 is more traditional and has small, short lugs to which a strap is mounted at either end of the case. The real space saving here comes from the addition of a bezel which acts as a minute track, whereas in other Ressence designs the outer minute track is simply at the dial’s perimeter. This tightens things up considerably, and also, in my opinion, offers a little more visual interest. With the minute track now outboard of the dial, options begin to open up with respect to finishing, color, materials, and so forth. The execution here isn’t particularly adventuro...

Parmigiani’s Latest Minute Repeater is “Mysterious” with No Hands SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier created Dec 10, 2024

Parmigiani’s Latest Minute Repeater is “Mysterious” with No Hands

To mark founder Michel Parmigiani’s 74th birthday, Parmigiani Fleurier created the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, a minute repeater without a tangible time indication on the face. Instead, the enamelled, guilloché dial on the front is purely decorative, with the repeater to tell the time on the wrist. But there is the time on the back of the watch thanks to a pair of discreet, peripheral hands. Initial thoughts Among the many complications, the minute repeater is one of my favourites. The beauty of a minute repeater lies in its acoustic time indication, which makes hands redundant in some ways. The L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse takes this concept to its logical conclusion in a gorgeously executed manner. The elaborate dial and case, however, result in the watch being very large, big enough that it loses some of the refinement and details present in a smaller case. Several notable artisans contributed to the watch, including Vanessa Lecci for the enamelling. The movement was supplied by Renaud & Papi, which is a fine, high-end movement but it’s a bit of a shame that Parmigiani didn’t utilise one of its in-house repeater calibres. A fascinating complication Like many historical Parmigiani models, the styling of the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is inspired by Ancient Greece. The fluted case middle is modelled on Doric columns, while the engine turning on the dial and the back are inspired by the Fibonacci sequence. It’s a large watch, w...

eBay Finds: a Classic Heuer Chrono, an Art Deco Bulova, and a 1970s Speedmaster Worn & Wound
Bulova Dec 6, 2024

eBay Finds: a Classic Heuer Chrono, an Art Deco Bulova, and a 1970s Speedmaster

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Heuer Autavia “Viceroy”  Starting off this week with a big boy watch, a vintage Heuer Autavia Viceroy chronograph. This classic chrono stunner comes in a 42mm steel case that is unpolished with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The beautifully symmetrical black dial has dual white chrono subdials and a date window at 6 o’clock. The dial, hands and bezel are original and in excellent condition. The watch is powered by a manual wind Heuer caliber 12 movement that is clean and runs well per the seller. These vintage Heuer chronographs are highly sought after and hard to find at auction in this condition. Great opportunity for a nice, scarce Heuer. View auction here Art Deco Bulova On the opposite end of the watch spectrum we have this gorgeous vintage Art Deco Bulova dress watch. Despite the title in the auction listing, this watch is actually from 1953, denoted by the “L3” date code on the back. However, the style is definitely reminiscent of the 1930s, especially the dial, with its two tone gold color and highly stylized Art Deco numerals. The 27mm gold fill case has a fancy faceted bezel and lugs to complete the Deco look. The crown is original and signed w...

eBay Finds: A Baylor in Great Condition, the Historic Accutron Astronaut, and a Classic Hamilton Chronograph Worn & Wound
Hamilton Chronograph eBay Finds Nov 22, 2024

eBay Finds: A Baylor in Great Condition, the Historic Accutron Astronaut, and a Classic Hamilton Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Computron  Another eBay Finds, another vintage LED for your bidding pleasure! This Computron example is one of (if not the) earliest Bulova LED’s. Sometimes referred to as the “Big Block” owing to its big, chunky gold nugget style case. This case is in pretty good shape, with some marks and wear from use but hasn’t been polished. The LED window has no cracks, and all the LED segments work, and the watch runs and works properly per the seller. The watch comes with its original integrated bracelet as well. These are on the scarcer side, and it’s nice to find an example like this that looks good and works well. View auction here Vintage Baylor  Here we have a simple little Baylor sporty dress watch with a great design. The watch has a chrome plated case with stainless steel back, and measures 34mm wide. Case is in good condition with no apparent pitting that I could see. The two-tone silver quadrant style dial is nice and clean, with stylized Arabic numerals on the even hours and simple stick markers for the odd hours. There is no movement picture but the seller states the watch runs and keeps time. It even comes with the original box, always a good thing. Simple...

Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds Nov 18, 2024

Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase

It’s getting close to the end of the year, and many of us are naturally in a reflective mood. I’d like to think I speak for most watch writers when I say that for us, it’s all about looking back at the almost incalculable number of watches we saw over the course of the year, and the reviews they spawned. Considering all the watches I got to look at this year, there are a handful that really stand out, and the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is easily one of them. We talk about Christopher Ward a lot around here because they continue to surprise us, expanding the very definition of what a “Christopher Ward” can be, and the C1 Moonphase is one of my favorite examples of that. It’s truly an art piece – made of slabs of aventurine with no markers to speak of and accented with giant, glowing moons in constant rotation. In a quiet way, it’s every bit as adventurous as the Bel Canto or Twelve X. If there was one issue with it, though, it was the size. At just over 40mm, it was perhaps a little big for some who expect a watch like this to be more discreet.  If that describes you, you’re in luck, as Christopher Ward has just announced a new version of the C1 Moonphase in a more versatile 37mm size. If you envision a watch like this as an accent to a suit (maybe even a tuxedo) or you simply have smaller wrists or prefer a more traditional dress watch size, this new version should have a ton of appeal.  Personally, I stand by my original review, where I wrote that a...

TAG Heuer Remembers Ayrton Senna with Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Remembers Ayrton Senna Oct 31, 2024

TAG Heuer Remembers Ayrton Senna with Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon

Legendary Formula 1 champion Ayrton Senna was a longtime TAG Heuer ambassador up until his death in 1994. On the 30th anniversary of his passing, the Brazilian driver is coming back to the fore with TAG Heuer unveiling the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna just in time for the premiere of the Netflix series Senna. Based on the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport, the Senna edition is presented in titanium, carbon composite, and the colours of the Brazilian flag. It bears the driver’s emblem on the carbon composite and hour register at nine, while the case back depicts a helmeted Senna. Senna himself frequently wore the TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25.706C multi-function, which will also be seen in the upcoming television series Initial thoughts TAG Heuer is in some ways an underdog – because of its many affordable offerings, its higher-end models sometimes don’t get enough attention. The Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, for instance, is a vintage-inspired but original design that’s appealing and powered by an in-house movement. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is an integrated chronograph with automatic winding, plus a flying tourbillon, albeit an industrial movement. The big and bold styling isn’t the retro-inspired design that Heuer enthusiasts appreciate, but the Senna edition is executed well and priced right. Personally speaking, the Senna edition is not my style - there are too Senna elements in the design, unlike the low-key regular-production version. However...

Sailing with the Yema Yachtingraf Croisiere Meca-Quartz Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 24, 2024

Sailing with the Yema Yachtingraf Croisiere Meca-Quartz

As we begin jockeying for position behind the starting line aboard Escapade, an Ericson 29 sailing yacht, we hear the first warning siren blast and I immediately click in the top pusher. The skeletonized yellow arrow hand begins to tick away the seconds as ‘Cappy’ yells, “Ready to tack?!” Giving the green jib sheet two wraps on the winch with my left hand and taking the red jib sheet in my right, I yell back “Ready!” The boat starts to come over into the wind pushing the jib (the forwardmost sail) into the boat, across its bow, and onto the other side. During this, I allow the red line to slowly let out while beginning to pull in the green slowly, then, once the jib passes the midway point, I release the red all together and begin pulling in the green as fast as I can until the jib is fully under tension and our speed begins to climb. A glance down at the 9 o’clock big-eye register shows that we have three minutes to start, information I relay quickly as we begin to weave our way through the pack. Two minutes now, the call for a gybe, and another turn back towards the line. As our speed begins to build, the bow lunges closer to the start line fighting for a perfect start against the crowded pack of seasoned sailors while making sure not to cross too early. The siren blasts again, the big-eye circular hand hits zero, and we cross over the line in second place under wind at roughly four knots.  While it might seem to be an entirely useless complication for the...

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s Best Diver Ever? Oct 11, 2024

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière

When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis-errr-the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful. Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model. However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details. $2390 Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Case Grade 2 ...

REVIEW: Hands On With The M.A.D.1 S WatchAdvice
MB&F; Sep 25, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The M.A.D.1 S

A revolution in affordable Haute Horlogerie with the latest M.A.D.1S. What We Love: Affordable haute horology timepiece The three-blade rotor design is well thought out, with it becoming even more fun with lume activated! Despite its thickness, the timepiece sits very well on the wrist thanks to the flat case back. What We Don’t: The hour time barrel is read right to left as it spins counter-clockwise when it should be read left to right The racing-inspired textile leather strap lacks adjustment for slim wrists. Lack of secondary strap choices from M.A.D Editions! Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The M.A.D.1S. is one of the best, if not the best, horological “fun” pieces that are available on the market right now. There are not too many other watches in the luxury world of horology that offer such an amusing timepiece that gets everyone talking, even non-watchgoers! The M.A.D 1 has a relatively short-lived history, as it was first released in June 2021; however, since then, it has been met with an overwhelming reception, giving more and more incentive for the M.A.D. Editions brand to keep creating more innovative, affordable entertainment timepieces! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The brand new 2024 M.A.D.1S. models To understand how M.A.D.1 first came about, we need to look at how the brand M.A.D Edition started and how its big sister brand, MB&F;, played a maj...

eBay Finds: A Classic from Glycine, an Uncommon Omega with an Alarm, and a Benrus with the Full Kit Worn & Wound
Omega Sep 20, 2024

eBay Finds: A Classic from Glycine, an Uncommon Omega with an Alarm, and a Benrus with the Full Kit

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko SilverWave Diver Here is a fantastic and scarce vintage Seiko SilverWave diver. The SilverWave model is one of Seiko’s earlier sport divers, and is arguably the coolest design. The 36mm steel case has a deeply grooved crown at 4 o’clock, and a snap on case back. There were a few different variations, but this model was rated to a depth of 30 meters. The silver dial has simple stick markers, but the coolest feature is the internal rotating dive bezel. By turning the crown in the ‘in’ position, the internal bezel rotates. This is something Seiko has done on many models, but I think the SilverWave may have been the first. Seller states the watch runs, and it’s in overall great condition for this watch which is usually found pretty beat up. View auction here Benrus Sea Lord  Next, a nice vintage Benrus Sea Lord (great name btw), complete with box and papers. The gold plated case is excellent and looks unpolished, and the crown is original and signed with the Benrus “B” logo. The silver dial is simple and clean with a radial brushed finish, with applied gold stick markers and big stick hands. The vintage stretch gold band is most likely a replacement, but it’s definite...

Shaping the Future of Watch Events: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024 Worn & Wound
Sep 16, 2024

Shaping the Future of Watch Events: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024

When we created the Windup Watch Fair nearly ten years ago, we did it for a simple purpose: to make the watch fair that we actually wanted to go to. We wanted a fair with the brands we were into and a comfortable environment-a fair that spoke to our values as a company and as watch enthusiasts. Inclusive, inviting, laid back, free, and, most importantly, fun. Naturally, we underestimated how big of a lift it would be to pull off, but we persisted, succeeded, and never looked back. The Windup Watch Fair, now held annually in San Francisco, Chicago, and New York City, has become the pre-eminent watch fair for enthusiasts. It is a fair where brands large and small, indie and group, accessible and luxury, come together to speak directly with you, the watch enthusiasts. New brands break ground, new products launch, and new friends are made. There’s genuinely nothing else like it. The original 2015 Windup Watch Fair Today, we’re excited to announce this year’s Windup Watch Fair New York City, which will set a new standard like our first fair ten years ago. With over 120 brands in attendance and 16 countries represented, Windup NYC, our flagship event, is now a watch fair on an international scale. From October 18th to the 20th, the center of the watch world will be in New York City, and you and all of your friends are invited to come. We look forward to seeing you there. This year, the event will be taking place at: Center415 on 5th Avenue between 37th and 38th Streets (...

Habring² Pilot Watches: A Tale of Two Fun (and Rare) Complications Worn & Wound
IWC Sep 16, 2024

Habring² Pilot Watches: A Tale of Two Fun (and Rare) Complications

My journey with Habring² started back in 2009 when my girlfriend (now wife) and I decided to spend a cozy weekend in Vienna. At the time, I was living and working in Prague, thus it was an easy drive to Vienna. On a chilly November morning, after a delightful breakfast, we wandered through the city. That’s when I noticed these enormous banners showcasing various watch brands for an event called Vienna Time. Among them was a banner for Habring². I had been a fan of the brand but had never seen any of their watches in person. So, I jumped at the chance to visit and meet the brand’s founders, Richard and Maria Habring. Fast forward to today, after knowing the Habrings for so many years, I can honestly say they are some of the most down-to-earth and caring people you’ll ever meet. And it shows in their watchmaking too. I like to call it “honest watchmaking.” Their watches are reasonably priced, especially considering the various complications they offer. Even the packaging is charmingly unpretentious-a compact wooden box that simply says, “made with love.” In this box, the Habrings also include spare parts necessary for the first service with our preferred local watchmaker-a practical consideration. The Habrings do not like to discuss Richard’s past accomplishments at various big brands like IWC and Lange. However, they are well documented online. As a primer, I would recommend reading this Hodinkee article by Jason Heaton, and this WatchProZine write-up ...

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 6, 2024

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart.  The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Sep 4, 2024

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days

One of my first and most eagerly anticipated Geneva Watch Days meetings was with Favre Leuba, a brand that I’ve admired for a very long time, even as its modern incarnation felt like a shell of the brand of its vintage heyday. Favre Leuba is a brand with a long history, dating back to the first half of the 18th century, and is perhaps best known for the Bivouac, a watch with an integrated altimeter complication. Ownership of the brand has changed many times over the years, and in recent years the marque was controlled by various holding companies that never did justice to the watches created in Favre Leuba’s best years. This year, however, marks a new start for the brand, under the leadership of watch industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, who had a long stint at Ulysse Nardin, and later WatchBox. At Geneva Watch Days, they debuted a robust new collection of watches that pays homage to the brand’s history while also looking forward, giving Favre Leuba the best chance they’ve had in years for real success.  Patrik Hoffmann at Geneva Watch Days 2024 There are multiple ways to relaunch a brand. You can start small, even with a single watch, and work your way toward building a collection. Or you can go big with something akin to the kitchen sink approach, with varied collections and price points. The advantage, I suppose, of going big is that a brand will get immediate feedback on what works and what doesn’t, but it also seems risky. What if none of it works? Favre Leuba...

Top Watches for Students and Grads Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2024

Top Watches for Students and Grads

With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. The post Top Watches for Students and Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro Form the Alternative Horological Alliance Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 29, 2024

Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro Form the Alternative Horological Alliance

One of the most buzzed about launches of this year’s Geneva Watch Days is a project shared between J.N. Shapiro, Ming, and Fleming. These are three of the most well liked indies in recent memory, each occupying a distinct niche in the community. J.N. Shapiro is a brand that embodies the spirit of classical watchmaking, but based in the United States with goals (mostly reached) of being a completely self-sufficient high-end American brand that does everything the old-fashioned way. Ming is a brand that we’ve covered frequently in these pages. They’ve emerged from a Kickstarter-like model to become one of the most creative indies around, capable of producing compelling and creative pieces at both the consumer level and a much higher haute horlogerie space. Fleming is the upstart, seemingly borrowing the best ideas from Shapiro and Ming and twisting them into something all their own.  These brands have been teasing an announcement at Geneva Watch Days fairly incessantly for several weeks now, and speculation as to the nature of the project reached a fever pitch in the days leading up the big reveal. While you could certainly be forgiven for expecting a new watch release, Ming, Shapiro, and Fleming have something perhaps more ambitious in mind: an alliance of like minded independent brands. Dubbed the Alternative Horological Alliance, this new venture promises to make each brand better with a larger focus on promoting independent watchmaking beyond “established, conve...

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Earlier Aug 19, 2024

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made  up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...

Bremont Introduces the Limited Edition Broadsword Recon Bronze Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s there was one Aug 7, 2024

Bremont Introduces the Limited Edition Broadsword Recon Bronze

Readers, I’d like to invite you to step back in time. Let’s go all the way back to the middle of April of 2024, in the days following this year’s Watches and Wonders. Amidst much content creation by many a watch media figure, there was a single story for which a consensus view began to emerge. While opinions might have differed on the viability of the new Lange Super Watch or the retail pricing of those gorgeous manually wound Grand Seikos, there was one brand on which just about everyone shared a take. Coming out of the fair, just about all of us agreed that Bremont was in trouble. There’s no need to dwell here on what we’ve already covered, except to say that the reaction to the new look at Bremont was the rare occasion in the watch media landscape where it felt like (almost) everyone was getting their unfiltered digs in. That usually doesn’t happen in our space. The reason is simple, at least at Worn & Wound, and that’s because here we tend to cover stuff we like. We want to share our enthusiasm for the things that get us excited, new releases included. But Bremont rebranding as they did at the biggest watch event in the world was newsworthy in a way that couldn’t be ignored, and we had to (as we always do) cover it honestly. We saw the watches in the metal, and gave our reactions, as did many others, and the many stories that were filed speak for themselves.  It’s been several months since Bremont debuted their new look, and the storm has died down c...

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 7941A1A0NU SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref Jul 16, 2024

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 7941A1A0NU

Among Tudor’s new releases for 2024, the most conservative is undoubtedly the Black Bay 41 METAS ref. 7941A1A0NU, which offers a monochrome, black-and-white alternative to the gilt-and-burgundy ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003 introduced last year. Initial thoughts The new Black Bay 41 (BB41) feels instantly familiar. In fact, it’s a little surprising that it wasn’t already in the collection, being about at straightforward as a contemporary dive watch can be. But what it lacks in surprise, it makes up for in simple, tangible quality. While the BB41 was the original Black Bay – launched a dozen years ago now – it now sits atop a range that also includes the smaller Black Bay 58 and even more compact Black Bay 54. The BB41 METAS’ dimensions of 41 mm by 13.6 mm thick mean it wears similar to a modern Rolex Submariner; those looking for vintage proportions should consider the BB58 and BB54. Of course, the big news is METAS certification for the MT5602-U movement, which now carries a “U” suffix to identify it as a METAS-certified Master Chronometer. The differences from the standard MT5602 used to date are likely minimal, since the movement has always had a silicon hairspring, one of the most important features for resisting the METAS standard’s 15,000 gauss anti-magnetism test. The difference, therefore, is that the movement’s high-performance specs have been confirmed by an independent test. Tudor is all about value, and the BB41 METAS is no exception. Available with...

Introducing the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947, a Chronograph About as Close to the Classic “Pogue” as We’ve Seen Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947 Jul 8, 2024

Introducing the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947, a Chronograph About as Close to the Classic “Pogue” as We’ve Seen

For years, Seiko fans have been clamoring for the return of the Pogue. From all corners of the internet, enthusiasts never let an opportunity to request a reissue of Seiko’s classic sports chronograph go to waste. The Pogue, otherwise known as reference 6139-6002, is legendary, famous for being on the wrist of NASA astronaut Col. William Pogue on his flight to Skylab. The watch in question was among the first automatic chronographs and issued in a variety of colorways, but it’s Pogue’s mustard yellow dial with a red and blue bezel that is the most collectible, and certainly the Seiko chronograph most of us picture in our mind’s eye when we think “Seiko chronograph.” For reasons the community can no doubt speculate on endlessly, Seiko never has relaunched the Pogue proper, but they’ve come about as close as they ever have with their latest release, the Prospex Speedtimer reference SSC947. We’ll examine the elephant in the room right upfront: this is not a mechanical chronograph, so is perhaps not the true heir to the Pogue legend. What we have in the SSC947 is a new entry in Seiko’s popular and quite good lineup of solar powered sports chronographs. We’re pretty big fans of these watches, which offer a ton of vintage inspired style and endless practicality in a package that’s extremely approachable. The retail price is $700 for watches in this collection, and they’re sized at a versatile 41.4mm. The special sauce with the Speedtimers is really in the...

eBay Finds: A Vintage Zodiac in Great Condition, a Pair of Cool Bulovas, and a Classic Seiko Chronograph Worn & Wound
Zodiac Jul 5, 2024

eBay Finds: A Vintage Zodiac in Great Condition, a Pair of Cool Bulovas, and a Classic Seiko Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Unbranded Yachtingraf Vintage Chronograph First up this week is this killer vintage unbranded version of a Yema Yachtingraf chronograph. The original Yema is a cult classic and highly sought after. This no-name  example may lack a name brand, but it has all the style of the original. Including the unique big-eye sub-dial look with the red white and blue elapsed minute dial as well as a date window at 6 o’clock. The steel case looks to have been polished but still looks nice, and the black count-down bezel is in great shape. Seller states the hands were professionally relumed. The watch is powered by a Valjoux 7734 manual wind movement that the seller states has been serviced and is working perfectly. View auction here Seiko “Pogue” 6139-6002 Automatic Chronograph  And here we have a true classic, a vintage Seiko 6139-6002 yellow dial “Pogue” chronograph. Seiko put out a multitude of 6139 variations, but this is definitely the most recognizable with the bright yellow dial, the same as Col. Pogue wore on his journey to Skylab. This example is super clean, and looks to be original to my eye. The dial and hands are clean and devoid of any black funk on the lume, and the “Pep...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More Fratello
Christopher Ward Oris Jul 1, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More

Another challenge accepted, and this time, it’s a hard one. As you know, €5,000 is not the Rolex-bag-filling stash it once was. Yes, I’m old, but it wasn’t that long ago that €5K was big money. Finding the best watches under €5,000 is not easy these days. I say that reasonably subjectively, even understanding Lex’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More to read the full article.

Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor Fratello
Rado Anatom Automatic Jun 20, 2024

Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor

Just over four decades after its debut, the Rado Anatom is back. It’s bigger than ever with a mechanical movement instead of a quartz one, a bezel and crown in black high-tech ceramic, and a middle case in black PVD-treated steel instead of traditional steel. The new Anatom also shows an impressive edge-to-edge sapphire crystal […] Visit Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor to read the full article.

More MoonSwatch: Omega and Swatch Team Up Again for a “Mission on Earth” Worn & Wound
Blancpain x Swatch “Scuba” Fifty Jun 12, 2024

More MoonSwatch: Omega and Swatch Team Up Again for a “Mission on Earth”

There are only a few certainties in life: death, taxes, and new MoonSwatches being released every five or six months. Yes, as you’ve undoubtedly heard by now, Swatch and Omega have once again taken over your Instagram feed, knocking out three new versions of the MoonSwatch. This release follows a pair of Snoopy themed MoonSwatch moonphases, and of course the Blancpain x Swatch “Scuba” Fifty Fathoms. These new MoonSwatches hew closer to the original idea of the watch, but each is just a little extra, like guacamole on a burrito, which one of them kind of looks like if you squint.  The three watches seen here make up the MoonSwatch “Mission on Earth” series, and as the name would suggest are inspired by earthbound phenomena. The “Desert” variant has a tan BioCeramic case and taupe dial, with an aesthetic inspired by, well, the desert. Slightly more adventurous is the “Lava” MoonSwatch, with a bright red case and an orange chronograph seconds hand that pays homage to the Omega “Ultraman” Speedmaster. The third watch, and the best of the three in my opinion, is the “Polar Lights,” which features a turquoise case and a dial inspired by the aesthetic of aventurine.  As many readers will surely recall, I’m not the biggest fan of the MoonSwatch. What was once a charming idea and perhaps a way to get new enthusiasts into the hobby quickly became something of a money grab. A predictable result, no doubt. But now that there’s a regular cadence to these...

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan Worn & Wound
Cartier s May 9, 2024

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan

A long lived pet peeve of mine in the watch industry is people referring to watches as “Brutalist” without having a clue about what the term really means. How, I always wonder, can a brand refer to their watch as being inspired by Brutalist architecture without it even being made of concrete? Well, the debut watch from Toledano & Chan is properly Brutalist in a very specific way, and truly lives up to its inspiration. And while the watch itself might not be made of concrete, the box is (really), and as someone who identifies Boston City Hall as one of his favorite buildings, that scores major points in my book.  The B/1 is the result of a collaboration between watch designer Alfred Chan and artist, watch collector, entrepreneur, and budding TikTok personality Phil Toledano. You may remember Phil from his appearance on the Worn & Wound podcast, and if you’ve spent any time looking at watches on Instagram or TikTok, you’ve likely seen him unboxing new (but actually old) Pateks, Cartiers, and Piagets with his pal Mike Nouveau. Phil (who goes my Mr. Enthusiast on social media) has long been one of my favorite collectors for his eccentric and adventurous taste, fully embracing the strangest and rarest designs by the aforementioned brands and many others. If the industry as a whole is currently moving toward smaller watches, shaped cases, stone dials, and the avant-garde, let it be said that Phil got there first. He’s been interested in this stuff for years, and bangi...

eBay Finds: A Pair of Great Vintage Chronographs, a Cool Rodania in Original Condition, and Some Classic Seikos Worn & Wound
Seiko s eBay Finds Apr 26, 2024

eBay Finds: A Pair of Great Vintage Chronographs, a Cool Rodania in Original Condition, and Some Classic Seikos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko Bell-Matic Alarm Watch  The Seiko Bell-Matics are well known amongst collectors, however this model is one you don’t see very often. The uniquely styled case is a big ol’ cushion shaped chunk of steel, measuring 39mm wide. This example looks unpolished and has the original brushed finish. The bezel has a nice blue acrylic insert that looks really cool. The dial is a super dark blue, and is in great shape, with bold steel hands and a red seconds hand. The crown is at 3 o’clock, and the alarm button is recessed at 2 o’clock. The watch comes on the original broad link bracelet, which is always a bonus. The movement is clean and the seller states the watch runs and works properly.  View auction here Vintage Vantage Chronograph Here we have a gorgeous vintage Vantage chronograph, with a stunning reverse panda style dial. The steel case has a slim bezel and slim, straight lugs, giving it that “poor man’s Carrera” look. The black dial with dual silver subdials is really sweet, and in great shape with nicely aged lume. Really a simple, classic chronograph that has a timeless design. The watch is powered by the workhorse Valjoux 7730, which is clean and recently serviced ...