Hodinkee
Two Sides Of Blancpain
From pioneering the dive watch to mastering Grand Complications, this house has it all.
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Hodinkee
From pioneering the dive watch to mastering Grand Complications, this house has it all.
Time+Tide
The Speedmaster Professional is so well known, so in command of its hallowed place in the history of watchmaking, how could you possibly find an alternative? Given that it is a watch that has actually been to the moon (conspiracy theories about the Mojave Desert aside), any comparisons will have to be approximate at best. … ContinuedThe post Attention space cowboys: 5 alternatives to the Omega Speedmaster that you probably haven’t considered appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
OK, let’s start by remembering the SBDC007, the legendary Seiko Shogun. Now I might be slightly biased because, at one point, I had two of them - after reading reviews saying the watch was so good it’d make you forget your other wrist-worn beauties. Well, believe the hype. The watch was that good and pretty … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Shogun is finally here in the form of the Seiko Prospex SPB189 and SPB191 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Here's a guy who truly knows the value of a great tool watch.
Quill & Pad
There are thousands of things to love about Greubel Forsey watches, but the thing that has always been the hook in the root of Joshua Munchow's brain is the variety of distinct shapes that atypically assemble to create very unique timepieces. With the release of 2020's Balancier S, yet another inspiring set of shapes entered his universe, which he share with us here.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
A transformation in my mind began. At first glance you notice that all-too-familiar case shape, but once you start looking at the dial, the bezel, the way the chapter ring is brushed a little rougher, almost like reclaimed metal, you get this real sense of the great American pocket watch.
Hodinkee
A stealthy steel field watch with matte ceramic coating and a legible luminous dial.
Time+Tide
What’s in a name? Quite a lot if you’re the greatest Formula 1 driver of all time. But while Lewis Hamilton is used to zooming to victories on the track, he’s just skidded to a big loss in the law courts. The racing driver has just lost a three-year legal battle with the Hamilton watch … ContinuedThe post Hamilton Vs Hamilton: F1 superstar Lewis Hamilton loses legal battle with Hamilton watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Citizen has been at the forefront of using titanium since 1970 and pioneered many advances in the use of specially hardened titanium in their Duratect in 2000. To celebrate the 50th Anniversary of titanium as a material in watch cases, they introduced the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m NY0105-81E Titanium Technology 50th Anniversary Asia LimitedRead More
Revolution
In a year draped in darkness, the watch industry is providing some much-needed colour.
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Time+Tide
If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll probably know that Audemars Piguet are well known for their skill in making tourbillons. This year alone, the Le Brassus-based brand has released a number of tourbillon watches, which we’ve covered here, here and here, but Audemars Piguet isn’t slowing down. Today the watchmaker announced the release … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Of all the winners from the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, this was the one that really made Dr. Rebecca Struthers smile! Among all the glamour of the watch industry, it’s easy to forget the importance of education; here she reminds us why that – and Antoine Simonin – are important to the wellbeing of our ticking microcosm.
SJX Watches
Unveiled just earlier this year, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is compelling inside and out – an uncommon, cushion-shaped “bullhead” case with an integrated bracelet, containing the ingenious, well-regarded Agenhor AgenGraphe movement. A limited run of just 100 watches, the launch-edition Streamliner only recently clinched the Chronograph Watch Prize at this year’s Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Geneve, making it the perfect time to launch of the regular-production variant, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue. Initial thoughts Original and appealing in its design, the Streamliner was well-received commercially and critically, making the regular-production version inevitable. Almost identical to the original version, the new version differs only in its dial, which is a metallic blue with a fashionable smoked finish. Notably, the blue dial has a radial, brushed finish, instead of the vertical, linear brushing of the launch edition. While the blue dial is quintessential Moser in colour and style, it isn’t as unique as the pale grey dial on the launch edition – which is a good thing, as it helps differentiate the limited-edition original. That said, the blue dial is attractive – and more striking – with the graduated, fume finish giving it more depth than the typical integrated-bracelet sports watch. The Streamliner chronograph has a price tag of US$43,900 – a sizeable number that’s justifiable because the watch stands out f...
Hodinkee
In-depth stories from the global watch community are a perfect antidote to a year defined by distance.
SJX Watches
Chopard recently unveiled the latest iteration of its Mille Miglia chronograph, a long-established model with conventional looks lightly inspired by classic cars. But it also unveiled the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillion, which is also automobile-inspired but instead by modern-day, hybrid hypercars. Drastically different and unabashedly contemporary, the Lab One is large, lightweight, and boasts a technically-impressive form movement with two notable features, a vertical hacking mechanism for the tourbillon as well as a back-winder crown. Initial thoughts While Chopard’s catalogue includes numerous classical, complicated watches that are well done – basically the entire L.U.C line – few of them possess strong design and rarely jump out at you. The Lab One is the opposite: unusual and original, and appealing – but polarising in terms of design. This not Chopard’s first foray in high-end, complicated sports watches, though it has not had much success in a segment dominated by brands like Richard Mille and Hublot. While its peers have refined their aesthetic into a recognisable style, Chopard is not well versed at such design. The watch is replete with car-inspired elements, but incorporated with varying degrees of coherence. It does, however, excel at watchmaking. Compared with the competition, the Lab One wins hands down in terms of technical achievement relative to price. Impressively kitted out with a hacking tourbillion, the Lab One is priced at $129,000,...
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Quill & Pad
When brands look to the past to find the absolute best details to combine into a killer timepiece, the result can be a terrific diver, a classy chronograph, or, in the case of American watchmaking company RGM, a fantastic pocket watch-inspired, enamel-dialed wristwatch like the Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel. Joshua Munchow feels this watch stands apart as a culmination of the brand's ideology.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Before you ask, yes we have a date. April 2, 2021. It ain’t exactly days away, but at least we know how long the advent calendar has to be. A fair bit of chocolate is the upside. We are happy to report that one of the largest entertainment-related casualties of the pandemic, the delay … ContinuedThe post UPDATED: The complete list of Bond watches – now including “No Time to Die” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ian Skellern still remembers the sense of awe he felt when he had the opportunity to watch and listen to a recently restored centuries-old Jaquet Droz singing bird. The animation was compelling, and the quality of the birdsong sound was incredible. But as impressive a feat he thought that full-sized eighteenth-century Jaquet Droz singing bird clock was, shrinking that mechanical technology to wristwatch size is just mind-blowing. As The Naked Watchmaker Peter Speake highlights here.
Time+Tide
Over the last few years we’ve seen lots of brands turn to their archives as inspiration for new watches. Heritage is very, very popular. But what if you don’t have a century or more of archives to dig through in search of exciting designs? What if your brand was only founded in 1980? For Hublot, … ContinuedThe post Our picks of the best Hublot watches of 2020, including some Black Magic, beautiful bracelets and modish millennials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Only just established by a team of watch-industry veterans, Kross Studio is making its debut with the 1989 Batmobile Desk Clock. Instantly recognisable as the Batmobile driven by Michael Keaton as Batman, the clock is powered by an in-house, 30-day movement. The aluminium-bodied clock is modelled on the Batmobile from Batman, the hit 1989 film directed by Tim Burton. Its sleek, Art Deco lines defined the styling of the Batmobile in all subsequent movies, until the franchise was rebooted with Christopher Nolan’s Batman Begins, which reimagined the Batmobile as an aggressive, military-style vehicle known as the Tumbler. Initial thoughts The Batmobile Desk Clock is cool, especially for anyone who grew up in the 1990s, when Michael Keaton’s Batman was the definitive version of the “Caped Crusader”. Importantly, Kross Studio managed to capture the look of the vehicle while unobtrusively incorporating the clock elements without disrupting the design. Mechanically it is also well executed. Unlike most high-end desk clocks that are powered by movements made by L’Epee 1839, the Batmobile clock is equipped with a movement of Kross Studio’s own design and manufacture. At a bit under US$30,000, the clock is priced reasonably enough, though not quite a value buy. The cost is similar to comparable clocks by MB&F;, though not as affordable as the self-propelling car clock made by independent watchmaker John-Mikaël Flaux. A clockmaking startup Founded by a five-person team, ...
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Ask most watch enthusiasts what Tudor’s first GMT wristwatch was and they’ll tell you it’s the perpetually popular Black Bay GMT aka “The Diet Pepsi”. And that, my friends, is the wrong answer. Tudor’s first timepiece equipped with a GMT complication was actually a model called the Iconaut. A chunky, bulbous-looking thing, this … ContinuedThe post Peter calls his Tudor Iconaut “weird” and “odd-looking” with looks “only a mother could love”. So, why did he buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Patek Philippe releases an ultra complicated watch in the form of the Ref. 6301P Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater with Jumping Seconds. This is the first Grande and Petite Sonnerie without any other complication in a Patek Philippe wristwatch. Press release information with commentary in italics Key highlights Grand Complication highlighting the chiming functions:Read More
Deployant
As the year of the 160th anniversary of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori, draws to a close, Grand Seiko proudly celebrates his life and achievements with a Spring Drive masterpiece. The watch is powered by Caliber 9R02 and features a Platinum 950 case with indexes and hour and minute hands in 14K white gold. A secondRead More
SJX Watches
Saving the best for last, Patek Philippe has just announced the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie. Powered by a movement derived from that in the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G uber-complication, the new Grande Sonnerie is impressively complicated – which is why Patek Philippe set up a dedicated workshop for its assembly – yet surprisingly thin. Unlike the Grandmaster Chime that was a multi-complication, the ref. 6301P is a focused mechanical masterpiece: a grande and petite sonnerie, striking the time en passant, or as it passes. But it is also a carillon, striking on three pairs of hammers and gongs, instead of the usual two. All its mechanical accomplishment is dressed in classical style, with an aesthetic reminiscent of the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – a black enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a recessed case band. Initial thoughts With a movement derived from the Calibre 300 found in the Grandmaster Chime, the Grande Sonnerie is almost as large, a necessity due to the size of the movement. At 44.8 mm in diameter, the Grande Sonnerie is a large watch, but it is surprisingly thin at just 12 mm high, which is perhaps unsurprising given Patek Philippe’s traditional inclination towards thin watches. Unlike the brand’s other extra-large grand complications, like the Grandmaster Chime or Sky Moon Tourbillon, the Grande Sonnerie has a more restrained, traditional design. Though imposing, it looks reasonably elegant due to the pared-back styling and subtle ...
SJX Watches
Seiko is gearing up to celebrate two anniversaries in 2021 – 160 years since the birth of its founder as well as the 140th year of the company – and has just announced one watch to mark each occasion, no doubt the first of many commemorative watches. The Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SBGZ005) is a remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960 – the first Grand Seiko – but enhanced with a patterned dial and the exceptionally-finished 9R02 Spring Drive movement, and accompanied by an exceptionally-high price tag. Initial thoughts With its design essentially a replica of the first Grand Seiko, the SBGZ005 is a classically handsome watch and perhaps the quintessential Grand Seiko design. Though the overall style remains identical to the vintage original, it’s been dressed up subtly – with a radial, geometric motif on the dial, which also has solid, 14k gold hands and hour markers. All those additions make it look even more appealing without taking away from its original aesthetic. While the look is attractive, Grand Seiko has been remaking the original model too often, and at an accelerating pace. This is the fifth (or even sixth) remake of the Grand Seiko 3180, with the last one having just been launched earlier this year. The proliferation of remakes leaves the 3180 design a little too common for comfort. And then there’s the movement, which is the 9R02 that’s also found in the Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive...
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