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Interview: Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Recently Oct 31, 2022

Interview: Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin

Recently in Singapore for The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition dedicated to Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking over the decades, Christian Selmoni has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the brand. Now the brand’s Style & Heritage Director, Mr Selmoni joined Vacheron Constantin (VC) in January 1992. His tenure of almost 31 years has given him an innate sense of the brand and its philosophy as well as a wide-ranging perspective on its timepieces over the years. We had a chat with Mr Selmoni to hear more about the brand’s most interesting creations, ranging from the 22”’ observatory-certified tourbillon movements of the 1920s to the modern-day Celestia grand complication. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: The Singapore exhibition has a good selection of the complicated, historical, and artisanal. What’s your favourite out of all that? Christian Selmoni (CS): It’s a tricky question, but one that immediately comes to my mind – the 22”’ tourbillon because I love this this calibre. VC made the movement in the 1920s; around 20 movements were sent for observatory contests. Once the contests were over, the movements were put in a tray somewhere. Then at the beginning of the 1990s, we made six or seven pocket watches with 22”’ tourbillon movements that had been totally refurbished and decorated. They were made for John Asprey in London. All of the [Asprey pocket watches] were unique, either in material or decoration, and some were set with ge...

Is the Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming the new celeb favourite? Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming Oct 31, 2022

Is the Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming the new celeb favourite?

Recently Patek Philippe ushered in their next era of the Nautilus with the new 5811/1G. The Nautilus, along with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, has long been a celebrity favourite to own and wear. Vacheron Constantin meanwhile have not always enjoyed the same success in garnering the attention of the rich and famous. Lately though, … ContinuedThe post Is the Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming the new celeb favourite? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet Oct 31, 2022

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case

Steel is a ubiquitous metal within the watch industry, but leave it to Hublot to find a twist that makes the commonly used metal much more interesting. Damascus steel, and its unique appearance, is routinely found in the best kitchen knives in the world. Now Hublot has used the intriguing metal in their new Big Bang … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Oct 31, 2022

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition

Having recently reopened Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a “concept” store dedicated to independent brands, Singapore retailer Sincere commissioned limited editions from several watchmakers to mark the event, including the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe in purple. Following that, SHH has unveiled another finely decorated time-only wristwatch, the Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition. With Breguet numerals on the front and a natural escapement on the back, the SHH Edition is classical but given a contemporary aesthetic with a gradient mint green. Initial thoughts A store with 19 brands on its premises, SHH certainly has a diversity of watchmaking on offer. But amongst its most technically accomplished time-only watches are the creation of Laurent Ferrier. Seemingly plain-vanilla on the front, the brand’s Micro-Rotor is tells a different story on the reverse. The movement revives Abraham-Louis Breguet’s escapement from two centuries ago, while the automatic winding mechanism is elaborately executed. It is a watch that is easily appreciated by collectors who appreciate history and chronometry. Like most collaborative editions, the SHH edition retains the flavour of the original, but with enough tweaks that it appeals to the target audience, namely watch enthusiasts who like classical design. While many of the dial details are familiar, they are combined in a coherent and restrained manner. The effect is subtle but significant. When I first encounte...

MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months

Starting Micro Mondays was originally about shining a light on some of the great independent watchmakers who have been able to be supported through the miracle of crowdfunding and other means. These brands were unbound by design restrictions or the necessity to please established fanbases. Instead they had the freedom to revive a stagnant watch … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Oct 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways

Panerai is a brand that has successfully riffed off the same formula since their inception, producing an impressively diverse portfolio considering the tightly focused design of their watches. That being said, the Luminor and Radiomir cases that their entire offering are based on have become somewhat of a limiting factor, so Panerai had to look … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet used Oct 30, 2022

VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision

It’s well-known that between 1975 and 1985, the Swiss watch industry collapsed and its chances of survival looked slim. Many manufacturers went bust or were forced to join larger conglomerates. The primary cause of the disruption was, of course, the innovation of electronic quartz movements. On Christmas day, 1969, Seiko released the Astron, the first-ever … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation Time+Tide
Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec Oct 30, 2022

Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation

What is a field watch? What is a diver? Those two questions can be answered in so many ways, depending on who you ask. Yet, there are instances when the answers to such questions are highly defined and set in stone. Such is the case when dealing with Mil-Spec watches. Mil- Spec, short for military … ContinuedThe post Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Certina DS+ is a shapeshifting innovation that lets you switch watch cases with zero fuss Time+Tide
Certina DS+ Oct 30, 2022

The Certina DS+ is a shapeshifting innovation that lets you switch watch cases with zero fuss

Certina have always had a way of flying under the radar for a myriad of reasons, but this new concept from the Swiss brand has marked them out as utterly unique among their peers. The concept of a modular wristwatch has been around for a little while, occasionally cropping up with microbrands and other Kickstarter … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS+ is a shapeshifting innovation that lets you switch watch cases with zero fuss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): We Have A Majority Winner Quill & Pad
Oct 29, 2022

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): We Have A Majority Winner

The 2022 GPHG Artistic Crafts finalists include some unique pieces, some small series pieces, and one comparatively large-volume piece (of 100 examples) by a bigger producer. All are beautiful and rare in their decorations, which include guilloche, engraving, enamel work, miniature painting, wood marquetry, gem setting, and Japanese lacquer work. So how did our peanut gallery vote?

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67 Deployant
Oct 29, 2022

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67

The petite seconde configuration and flat case with stepped bezel is a stylistic homage to vintage timepieces. It echoes the era of fixed lugs monobloc cases that were once made from nickel plated brass. The spade hands and arabic numerals are flanked by a railroad minutes track which matches the classic look. While this may have to do with branding, a simpler logo without the large POLO font could have added more balance to the dial which favors the more subdued look. Otherwise, we welcome Polo Ralph Lauren's new Vintage 67 which acts as an avenue to initiate fashion lovers to the world of watchmaking, starting with the fine handwinding La Joux Perret movement. The watch is priced at US$2,700.

The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2022

The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire

Chinese watchmaking has been getting an increasing amount of recognition, and deservedly so, with CIGA Design seemingly leading this expansion. First being awarded the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2021 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the brand has once again been recognised for their achievements, this time by another important Swiss institution, … ContinuedThe post The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022 Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2022

Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022

This past week, New York City became the centre of the watch world as it hosted two major watch events. One of those, Windup Watch Fair, was hosted by our friends over at Worn & Wound. Spread across 14,000 square feet, dozens of brands displayed their creations, offering guest first looks and a direct buying … ContinuedThe post Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first Time+Tide
Nomos Club Sport neomatik 37 Oct 28, 2022

VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first

The Glashütte brand recently introduced a new entry into their affordable Club family with the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37. While this line-up features some of the most affordable models that NOMOS offers, the Club Sport neomatik is a different beast, though its diminutive sizing and simple looks may not suggest so. Through a few … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 28, 2022

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk. Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants. The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge A brief history Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking. Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera. And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes,...

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022 Time+Tide
Oct 27, 2022

Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022

There is a lot of ground to cover, so I will try to be brief. Last week I attended WatchTime NY 2022, a horological candy shop for those who love all things watches. The participating brands brought some of their latest and greatest watches to get hands-on with, and there were too many I loved … ContinuedThe post Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: ‘Spring Sprang Sprung’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Oct 27, 2022

Exhibition: ‘Spring Sprang Sprung’ in Singapore

An exhibition focused on “microbrands”, Spring Sprang Sprung takes place in Singapore from October 28-30, 2022. Happening at XM Studio, a workshop best known for its hand-made comic figurines, the exhibition encompasses 21 watch brands and a leather goods maker. The exhibition was the brainchild of local retailer Red Army Watches (RAW) and Singapore-based micro brand Feynman Timekeepers. Exhibiting brands include Havaan Tuvali, Vario, and Atelier Wen. The flagship wristwatch from Feynman with a hand-made cloisonné enamel dial Dive watches in bronze from Zelos A city state that boasts a high density of high-end watch collectors, Singapore also has a thriving community of enthusiasts who cherish fun and inexpensive timepieces. In fact, several micro brands have emerged from Singapore, such as Feynman and Zelos. The appreciation of micro brands has been developed in large part by RAW, long a proponent of affordable watchmaking. With stores in Singapore, Malaysia, and Brunei, RAW carries a range of micro brands, including several that are showing at Spring Sprang Sprung. It was RAW founder Sugiharto Kusumadi and Yong Keong Lim, the founder of Feymann, who provided the impetus for the exhibition. The Vario Popeye jumping hour The Atelier Wen Perception with a hand-made guilloche dial Spring Sprang Sprung takes place October 28-30 at XM Studios in Singapore. It is open to public daily from 11:00 am-6:00 pm, except for Sunday when it closes at 5:00 pm. Admission is fre...

The Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary from Jacob & Co is a horological offer you can’t refuse Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Oct 27, 2022

The Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary from Jacob & Co is a horological offer you can’t refuse

Did you know the severed horse’s head in the famous scene from The Godfather was real? Or that Warren Beatty, Dustin Hoffman, Jack Nicholson and Robert DeNiro were all turned down for the role of Michael Corleone? Or that the classic line: “Leave the gun. Take the cannoli,” uttered by capo Peter Clemenza was actually improvised? … ContinuedThe post The Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary from Jacob & Co is a horological offer you can’t refuse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sparkling Division Quill & Pad
Oct 26, 2022

Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sparkling Division

We finally arrive at the 2022 GPHG Jewellery category, which is often the most varied in opinion as there is such wide room for taste. Seen among the competing watches are a couple familiar faces, a few bold choices, and even a wild card that might have gotten lost while carrying a pouch full of diamonds through a particle accelerator. What does our peanut gallery think? It's divided.

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava refs 565 Oct 26, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’

An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...