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Urwerk Debuts the Tantalum Swansong for the UR-105 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 26, 2021

Urwerk Debuts the Tantalum Swansong for the UR-105

Launched in 2014 as a successor to the foundational UR-103, the UR-105 was a more elaborate version of Urwerk’s satellite-disc, wandering-hours watch. After a seven-year run – it’s been replaced by the entry-level UR-100 – the UR-105 series will now be retired. Urwerk is giving the model a grand send-off with the UR-105 TTH, which has the front plate and lid of its case made of tantalum, the bluish-grey metal that Urwerk has only used in one other instance with the UR-110 TTH. Based the UR-105 CT Streamliner with its characteristic hinged lid, the UR-105 TTH is all about its case material. A dense metal with a distinctive colour that’s used for surgical implants, turbine blades, and even artillery shells, tantalum is difficult to machine and finish due to its hardness. Consequently, while tantalum has been used for watch cases since the 1990s, but it is uncommon. Urwerk is one of a handful of brands, alongside Omega and F.P. Journe, to use the metal for a watch case. Initial thoughts All good things must come to an end, and Urwerk is closing the chapter with aplomb. With the distinctive hue of tantalum, the case fits the sci-fi industrial spirit of the brand well. Striking and futuristic, the UR-105 is sleek in tantalum. The metal will make it substantially heavier than the standard steel version of the UR-105, which would make it less easily wearable. Priced at CHF77,000, or about US$86,000, the UR-105 TTH is 20% more expensive the base-model UR-105 CT i...

Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 26, 2021

Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age

Within the hip-hop community the prevalence of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille is abundant. In a scene where competitive flair and one-upmanship is a key component, many rappers’ initial step into watches is to buy “buss-down” watches – whether iced out by the factory or aftermarket. But as this market matures, what we … ContinuedThe post Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack Time+Tide
May 25, 2021

NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack

First up, an introduction as to how this column is going to run and for that a high-end car metaphor is required. The majority of the timepieces that fill this site can, without too much of a stretch, be equated to wrist Ferraris, horological McLarens, an Aston Martin with tourbillons – you get the picture. … ContinuedThe post NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Defy Extreme Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Extreme Hands-on Review May 25, 2021

Zenith Defy Extreme Hands-on Review

Pros: Love the easy quick change strap systemScrew-in crown and 200m water resistance Sapphire dial and increased legibility  Cons: Wrist sizes smaller than 6.5ich won’t be able to enjoy the 45mm case size Some may find it to be too thick on the wrist Some may find it expensive compared to Defy 21 range Over All Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there is one phrase I don’t hear enough of, it’s “put the watch on your wrist”, as that is where it’s meant to go, and that is the best place to judge whether a watch suits you or not. Watches are immensely personal, and quite often how it wears and how it looks on your wrist is completely different to how a watch looks on a fancily posed, laid out and propped image on Instagram. Always try the watch on.  Reference : 95.9100.9004/01.I001 on a 6.5 inch wrist However, isn’t this the case today? We scroll through images, each getting perhaps a fraction of a second of attention, and even if we do stop to read the text, it’s a quick skim, and then, just as quickly, a comment is left, and without any further thought, we move on to the next shiny new thing. Before touching or even seeing something in person, a judgement call is made.  Reference : 87.9100.9004/03.I001 on a 6.5 inch wrist The Zenith Defy Extreme is one such watch where it was dismissed online too quickly because of a number (in this case the diameter), which many deemed too high up...

Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin May 24, 2021

Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul

Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul. By Alexey Kutkovoy. Chaykin.ru; €230 Just glancing at Konstantin Chaykin’s repertoire tells you that there must be many stories behind his watches and clocks – they are markedly out of the ordinary. To tell some of those stories behind the timepieces – and his own story – Konstantin recruited renowned Russian watch journalist Alexey Kutkovoy in 2019. Despite Konstantin being a perfectionist, Mr Kutkovoy had journalistic freedom. “I was not bound by his control, so I had the privilege to compose my own independent vision with some nice subjects discovered, and I’m happy he left that untouched,” mentions Mr Kutkovoy. The Joker Selfie made for charity auction Only Watch 2019 His life and work The result is Konstantin Chaykin, a wide-ranging book that’s both an overview of Konstantin’s first 17 years of watchmaking as well as the myriad tales about his watches and clocks. Konstantin Chaykin is 384 well-filled pages, laid out in an unusual design that befits the individualism found in his watches. Originally published in Russian, the book is now available in English in a limited edition of 1,000 copies. Mr Kutkovoy decided to present Konstantin’s story in two separate threads – a timeline and an evolution of Konstantin’s clock and watch inventions – that presents a detailed history in a most accessible way. The opened cover of Konstantin Chaykin The first section is a chronological narrative, ...

Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal Time+Tide
May 24, 2021

Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal

It started, like so many admirable ideas, in a pub garden over a few pints on a sunny day. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the Managing Director of the British watch brand Fears, found himself chatting about the effects of COVID on unemployment and how there were suddenly a growing number of people looking for work. “I started … ContinuedThe post Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I bought the Bulgari Octo Finissimo: What the owners’ experience is really like Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo What May 24, 2021

Why I bought the Bulgari Octo Finissimo: What the owners’ experience is really like

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is well on its way to being a modern classic. Launched just seven years ago in 2014 and drawing off the sharp Italian geometry of the Octo Roma, it is a collection that has gone from strength to strength, breaking world records for thinness on average once every year. That’s right, … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Bulgari Octo Finissimo: What the owners’ experience is really like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial Time+Tide
Boldr already making waves Keaton’s May 23, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial

Keaton Time Co. is another new brand from Singapore, that’s fast becoming a veritable hotbed of horological innovation with the likes of Zelos and BOLDR already making waves. Keaton’s debut watch Keris is unlike anything I’ve seen in a long time. You can forget about slim vintage, forget about creamy lume, hell, forget about the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Nautilus Market Madness: Thoughts On The Current Market Situation – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Market Madness Thoughts May 23, 2021

Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Nautilus Market Madness: Thoughts On The Current Market Situation – Reprise

Since January of 2016, secondary market prices of stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus models have surged in a fashion rarely seen. This phenomenon – and it is that – is exceptional for reasons including the relative age of the models involved, the magnitude of the surge, and the speed with which it struck. Here Tim Mosso takes a closer look at the current secondary market insanity of the Nautilus.

HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE251 May 22, 2021

HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251

With their penchant for larger diameters clearly visible in the Grand Seiko SBGE251, I feel the need to underline a simple fact with Seiko and Grand Seiko. While there is a lot to be said for the goldilocks 38-40mm case size, I still haven’t figured out how Seiko manages to make my last big diver’s … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline SJX Watches
Cartier May 22, 2021

Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline

After a weak first half, Richemont’s business started its turnaround in the second half of the financial year, which ended in March 2021. From a 25% year-on-year revenue decline in the first half at constant exchange rates, the Swiss luxury group enjoyed a 36% rise in sales in the last quarter. As a result, revenue for the full year was down just 5% compared to the year before, to slightly over €13 billion. The healthy numbers and positive outlook helped send Richemont shares past 100 Swiss francs during trading, a five-year high. Divergent fates Beneath the strong recovery in the group’s numbers lay a recurring theme: a disparity in performance between regions, channels, and divisions. This echoes that of its rivals and the broader luxury-good industry – characterised by a strong recovery in Asia, moderate recovery in the United States, and continued weakness in Europe. And within the group, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are powering ahead, leaving most of its watchmakers lagging. Continuing a trend that began in the third quarter, sales in Asia Pacific – all Asian countries except Japan – rose by a staggering 106% in the final quarter, boosting revenue in the region by 22% for the year. Asia Pacific sales are now the largest proportion of Richemont’s revenue at 45% of the total, compared to the historical one-third share. The performance was driven by strong sales in China, both in Richemont’s physical stores and its online mall on Alibaba’s Tmall Lu...

Big Brand Investments In Independents: Sellout Or Salvation? – Reprise Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe caused Gary May 22, 2021

Big Brand Investments In Independents: Sellout Or Salvation? – Reprise

GaryG has already written about the struggles that independent watchmakers face simply to survive. Expressing oneself through horological art may well be a noble calling, but it’s definitely one of the tougher ways to make a living. Chanel's very recent investment in F.P. Journe caused Gary to think about the pros and cons of outside investment into indies, and he shares his thoughts here.

#Kixntix: Get eco-warrior chic with the new Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai lifted with a pop of Supreme red Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai May 22, 2021

#Kixntix: Get eco-warrior chic with the new Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai lifted with a pop of Supreme red

Here’s a #Kixntix with a conscience. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai is more than the sum of its soft green ceramic case and industrial-chic movement. This is a camo-clad warrior with a mission, supporting former cricketer Kevin Pietersen and his conservation charity, SORAI – Save Our Rhino Africa India. The rhino population is dwindling … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: Get eco-warrior chic with the new Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai lifted with a pop of Supreme red appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kapow! Zap! Whammo! The cartoon characters brightening up your wristwear from Popeye to Snoopy Time+Tide
May 21, 2021

Kapow! Zap! Whammo! The cartoon characters brightening up your wristwear from Popeye to Snoopy

Are cartoon-themed watches the same as the joker in the office with the cringe-worthy Marvin the Martian silk tie on a Tuesday? I think not. In fact, some of the best examples of cartoon characters, whether they be Disney or Anime, are so discreet that you barely notice them. And in the context of a … ContinuedThe post Kapow! Zap! Whammo! The cartoon characters brightening up your wristwear from Popeye to Snoopy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Perpétuel: A Destination For Watch Lovers In Dubai Offering Cool, Accessible Limited Editions Quill & Pad
May 21, 2021

Perpétuel: A Destination For Watch Lovers In Dubai Offering Cool, Accessible Limited Editions

There’s something new in Dubai. Something with the power and ability to bring people of the watch community together. And those who might just want to be part of the watch community. And, of course, those who are just looking for good watches. Perpétuel, co-founded by Melika Yazdjerdi and Hamdan Alhudaidi, offers new experiences and limited edition watches for Middle East collectors and visitors alike.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Titan SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces May 21, 2021

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Titan

Perhaps TAG Heuer’s most distinctive vintage chronograph, the Monaco is best known for having been worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans. Having been iterated multiple times in modern times, the Monaco is making its debut in a more unusual guise. A blend of old and new, the Monaco Titan has a sandblasted titanium case, along with a brushed silver that bearing the trademark horizontal markers of the original Monaco. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has launched many Monaco editions recently, enough that I can’t recall most of them. The Monaco Titan, however, stands out in both design and materials. Combining the style of the vintage Monaco ref. 1133B – most notably the distinctive horizontal hour markers – with modern colours, finishes, and materials, this arguably the best looking Monaco of the last couple of years. Besides the aesthetics of the material – titanium is a darker grey shade than steel – the case will be noticeably lighter in titanium, which will be useful given that the Monaco is a relatively chunky watch, despite a relatively modest diameter. Somewhat pricey at US$7,900, the Monaco Titan isn’t quite the value proposition of the Monaco models with the in-house Heuer 02 movement – which cost less despite the in-house movement – though the price premium is partially attributable to the case material and limited edition run. Still, the Monaco Titan is an appealing watch, and the most appealing in the Monaco line. Matte titanium The Monaco Ti...

Auction Watch: Record-Setting Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 World Time SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 1415 World Time May 21, 2021

Auction Watch: Record-Setting Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 World Time

A frequent topic of news headlines recently is the US$11 billion tax bill faced by the Lee family that controls Samsung. South Korea’s 60% inheritance tax is the highest in the rich world, resulting in the gargantuan tax assessment after the death of Lee Kun-hee, the former chairman of Samsung. The late Lee was a reticent but prodigious collector of art, automobiles, and also watches – all of which are either being sold or donated to help cover the bill. According to the Financial Times, Lee amassed 23,000 works of art, including paintings by Basquiat, Dalí, Monet and Picasso. Valued at over US$2 billion, the art collection will be donated to various museums in South Korea to offset some of the taxes. Christie’s mega auction Comprised of several hundred wrist- and pocket watches, Lee’s timepiece collection was consigned to Christie’s, according to several industry insiders. The first watches from the collection will be sold on May 22 in Hong Kong at a sale led by Christie’s head of watches in Asia, Alexandre Bigler. Amongst the highlights of the collection is the unique Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 HU world time in platinum that once held the record for the most expensive watch ever when it sold for 6.6 million Swiss francs at Antiquorum’s Geneva auction in April 2002. Alexandre Bigler of Christie’s While the identities of the buyers of recent record-setting watches is often unknown except to a handful of well-connected individuals (the buyer of the US$31-mil...

INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition AMG is made to go fast, really fast Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition May 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition AMG is made to go fast, really fast

IWC and the Mercedes performance arm, AMG, have had a long and fruitful relationship since they first joined forces back in 2004. Things were taken to the next level when Mercedes entered into Formula 1, the pinnacle of motorsports racing, back in 2010 and IWC became a key partner only a few years later, just … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition AMG is made to go fast, really fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new TAG Heuer Monaco Titan is a future-proof vision of a stone-cold classic Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Titan May 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new TAG Heuer Monaco Titan is a future-proof vision of a stone-cold classic

As a motorsport fan with a predilection for vintage-inspired wristwear, I’ll freely admit that the original fresh blue Heuer Monaco might just be my favourite square piece of horology. It’s cushion-softened steel ingot evocative of a different age, exuding glamour, petrol fumes and an oil-stained Steve McQueen in racing overalls. The TAG Heuer Monaco Titan … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new TAG Heuer Monaco Titan is a future-proof vision of a stone-cold classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.