30,835 articles · 168 videos found · page 818 of 1034
Quill & Pad
You may be familiar with numbers such as 18,000 vph, 28,800 vph, and even 36,000 vph describing the frequency of a watch’s regulator, but few really know what those numbers mean. Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why watch frequencies matter, but he oscillates in choosing a winner. Follow the discussion here.
Quill & Pad
Why watches? Ask what makes a watch enthusiast tick and the idea of the “soul” of a watch might well feature in the response – the idea that something elevates the watch from a cold object of engineering to something of greater import. Here Ryan Schmidt tracks "soul" down and gets contemplative on its nature along with some very special imagery.
Quill & Pad
Despite the virus restrictions, GaryG has managed to venture out from time to time for brief, top-secret rendezvous in parking lots and on park benches to receive and return the generous loans of friends’ watches to photograph. Recently, he had the chance to shoot a true classic: a second-series Reference 3450J perpetual calendar made by Patek Philippe, which he shares with us here.
Time+Tide
Handmade. That term, alongside hand-finished, is often thrown around in watchmaking, but the term is often misleading. It is very rare that a watch is 100% handmade, and those that are even predominantly handmade usually command incredibly high price tags due to the time-intensive process of fabrication. But what if I told you that a … ContinuedThe post A handmade watch for $2.5K USD? The Levenaig Lakeland 38 makes this a reality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The decade of the disco ball was a good one for watch design, both in terms of the creativity and breadth of designs that were released in the 1970s. It was 1978 when Tissot released their first PRX watches, that followed the same blend of angular case shapes and integrated bracelets that had already become … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tissot PRX represents the best of ’70s watch design at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Naked Watchmaker is one of our favourite sites for profound insights into what lies behind many an intricate case design and sapphire caseback. This is not a new story, but the raison d’être for TNW is to allow us the pleasure of taking some time to educate ourselves on a deeper level rather than … ContinuedThe post Recommended Reading: The Naked Watchmaker deconstructs the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Shortly after launching the last of the 17-series, at least under its own label, Ming is rolling out a tie up with Massena Lab – the 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab Limited Edition. Having got its start by collaborating with brands like Habring2 before introducing its eponymous brand, Massena Lab puts its own twist on the 17.09 with a honeycomb dial in either honey or black, which will be limited to 50 and 150 pieces respectively. The 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab in black Initial thoughts I loved the 17.09, so much, in fact that I placed an order for one. It’s a well-executed watch at an extremely appealing price point. Likewise, I find the 17.09 Massena Lab attractive. The two models retain the best aspects of the 17.09, such as the floating minute track, skeletonised hands, as well as Ming’s signature flared lugs. But the 17.09 Massena Lab adds a bit more intricacy to the design. When the 17.09 was announced last month, I wrote “the clous de Paris guilloché in the center is less unique than the spiral motif found on the dials of the 17.06″. The dial and its “floating” numerals By doing away with the clous de Paris in favour of honeycomb, the Massena Lab editions become eminently more striking than the standard versions. Between the two, my pick would be the honey dial – the black dial comes a tad too close to triggering my trypophobia. Priced at US$2,595 in black (and US$200 more in honey), the collaborative 17.09s are 20-30% more expensive than the standard...
SJX Watches
Rolex launched Chronergy – essentially a mechanical ecosystem for optimal mechanical performance – with the cal. 3255 in the top-of-the-line Day-Date 40 that made its debut in 2015. Six years on, Rolex has upgraded practically its entire line up with latest-generation, Chronergy-equipped cal. 32XX family, including its most affordable offerings. Chronergy movements are found in the Datejust (cal. 3235) and Oyster Perpetual (cal. 3230), and also the entry-level sports watches, like last year’s Submariner ref. 124060 (cal. 3230). Chronergy is made up of 14 patents covering every aspect of a movement from power source to regulator, but a fundamental element is its escapement. And the Chronergy escapement actually continues a long-forgotten journey that began some fifty years ago on the other side of the world. Still sound at 300 years old Invented in the mid 1750s by Thomas Mudge (1715-1794), the lever escapement was arguably the necessary iteration of the deadbeat escapement once it was miniaturised for a watch. Having been conceived by George Graham (1673-1751) as a refinement of the anchor escapement in pendulum clocks, the deadbeat escapement was unsuited to the delicacy of watch proportions. In the lever escapement, impulse is provided to the balance via a lever, which is in turn propelled by the force of the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever. And the lever escapement is a detached escapement, meaning the escape wheel locks free of ...
Time+Tide
Whenever Ming introduces a new watch, the brand’s followers immediately mark their calendars and ensure they set aside time to race to the checkout for one of these highly coveted watches. The designs of this independent watch brand are absolutely distinctive, with every component meticulously crafted to reflect the design language of Ming Thein. Ming … ContinuedThe post Making a buzz: Ming x Massena Lab collaborate to create honeycomb hotness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bvlgari introduces a new collaboration with producer, DJ and fashion designer Steve Aoki to introduce the new: Bvlgari Aluminium Steve Aoki Special Edition.
SJX Watches
Bulgari has teamed up with Steve Aoki to create the Aluminum Steve Aoki, a funky version of its aluminium-and-rubber watch. Launched in 1998 and then revived last year, the Aluminum is an entry-level, lightweight sports watch that’s been given a subtle but fun twist with the “O” from the American DJ’s signature incorporated into the dial. Born in California – his father founded the popular Japanese restaurant chain Benihana – Steve Aoki is one of the world’s most successful DJs, having collaborated with various musicians from Maluma to BTS. A fixture in the “Top 100” rankings by industry publication DJ Magazine, Mr Aoki also has his own streetwear line, making this collaboration with the Roman jeweller a natural evolution. Initial thoughts A hit upon its revival last year, the Aluminium is cheerful and affordable, while having an easily recognisable Bulgari design. Its design is strong enough that I find it to be one of the most fascinating watches in its price segment, despite the generic movement. The only downside of the Aluminium is the softness of the metal, which means the watch case will show wear more quickly than a steel watch. And careless wear will result in a case that looks very worn. The Aluminum gets better with Steve Aoki collaboration. The DJ’s emblem on the dial is modern, bold, and a perfect match for the spirit of watch. But it’s also discreet – hardly visible during the day at arm’s length – preserving the classic design....
Revolution
Arguably the most underrated among the independent brands, De Bethune’s watches with their otherworldly aesthetic and technical innovation will appeal to a watch community searching for an authentic vision of horology.
SJX Watches
Oblong in shape and entirely resin, the original G-Shock has evolved in recent years into something altogether more fancy, while retaining the signature 5000-series design. While the traditional resin models remain in the line up, the Full Metal collection has rapidly grown to include models in steel, titanium, as well as in ridiculous-but-cool 18k yellow gold. Taking things to the next level is the G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000TR. Made of a newly-developed titanium alloy that’s twice as hard as pure titanium, the latest Full Metal model has an unapologetically bold “rainbow” bracelet with links in four different colours. Initial thoughts I was shocked when I first saw the multicolour bracelet – it seemed too much. But I let it sit for a day, and the look started to grow on me. The Full Metal “Rainbow” is a G-Shock that truly caters to the enthusiasts, because it is so different and so unexpected, yet executed to a high standard – attributes that mark it out as a serious G-Shock for the collector who is willing to pay a premium for such things. Echoing the bracelet, the digital display is also multicolour The foundations of the watch are strong. Now almost 40 years old, the design remains durable – the square case is the iconic G-Shock – and looks as good as it did in 1983 when the DW-5000 made its debut. Rendering the design in rainbow colours and a new titanium alloy only adds to the appeal. That said, this is the latest of many, many Full Metal mode...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The heat around the pitch-perfect Tissot PRX models has not died down, and neither has the demand, which is understandable when you consider the price point of $550AUD. And things are set to go up another notch in a couple of months when the Powermatic automatic models follow in lockstep. But for now, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The pitch-perfect Tissot PRX brings you an integrated steel sports watch for a bargain price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
For 2021, #ShootYourWatches2, Casio Singapore is offering the Edifice ECB-20D as the grand prize. Details of the prize and photo contest rules within.
SJX Watches
Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2021, Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton made its debut alongside highly complicated watches from mainstream watchmakers – but it holds its own in mechanical complexity and metiers d’art decoration against the best of them. Initial thoughts Louis Vuitton’s mechanical watches are impressive, and often don’t get enough respect from watch enthusiasts because of the often ostentatious design. But I respect the quality of concept and execution, and like several of the watches (and own one of them). The flagship complication for 2021 is typical Louis Vuitton in terms of design, but creative in its mechanics and polished in its artisanal decoration. The Carpe Diem is essentially a modern day vanitas – a work of art symbolising the transience of material goods and fragility of life. At the same time, it encapsulates many of the favoured themes in modern-day watchmaking – complex movements, artisanal decoration, and over-the-top style. Although the Carpe Diem is massive and extreme, the craftsmanship evident on the dial is delicate and refined. The engraving on the skull is fine, and even more intricate on the snake, which is enamelled in exceptional detail. All of the metiers d’art on the dial is as good as that on watches from mainstream watchmakers. At the same time, the movement is technically competent and properly finished, given its La Fabrique du Temps provenance. But the watch is a lot of watch, in terms of size an...
Time+Tide
One of the few worldly possessions of Mahatma Gandhi was his beloved Zenith alarm pocket watch that the social visionary used to make sure he didn’t miss prayer times. Being reminded of this merely underscored the intrinsic value of my newly arrived, perfectly smooth and deeply unfashionable piece of stress relief. What happened was this: … ContinuedThe post Why I bought a Zenith pocket watch that’s 106 years old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Established in 1948, Yema was once a French watchmaking giant, having equipped the French Air Force and the first French astronaut, Jean-Loup Chrétien. It entered a long decline in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, but was revived under its current French owners who took over in 2009. Now Yema is once again making tool watches for professionals in a tie up with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. A collection of dive watches “jointly designed with French Navy personnel for marine professionals”, the Navygraf X Marine Nationale is led by a time-only, automatic dive watch, as well as a variant with a GMT function. It also includes a less expensive quartz model and a ladies version, though they will not be covered here. The Navygraf Marine Nationale Automatic (left), and GMT Initial thoughts Along with fellow French brand Baltic, Yema is one of my favourite brands at the US$1,000 price point. Its watches are well designed and executed for the price, often offering strong value. Given Yema’s historical relationship with the French military – the brand supplied watches to French air force helicopter pilots in the 1970s – Yema has legitimacy in military watches, and its collaboration with the navy makes sense. The white and blue combination – a nautical palette modelled on the emblem of the French Navy – is familiar but stands out on the wrist, being immediately reminiscent of the oceans. The maritime theme of the symmetrical and legible dial is reinforc...
SJX Watches
Defined by its refined and occasionally whimsical style, Hermès emphasises whimsy with the new Arceau Space Derby, which reinterprets the Space Derby scarves, repurposing the sci-fi motif as miniature paintings for the wrist. The Arceau Space Derby will be available in two sizes: the smaller 38 mm with a diamond bezel and pink opaline glass dial, as well as two larger 41 mm models with dials in aventurine glass. The small model is limited to 24 pieces, while only 12 each will be made of the large models. The smaller version with a pink opaline glass dial Initial thoughts I absolutely love the Arceau Space Derby. Hermès makes a diversity of goods, from leather to clothing to high-end homeware, but often sharing the same motifs that are typically appealing and original. So its habit of looking into its past designs for its wristwatches is brilliant. The illustrator of Space Derby, French comic artist Ugo Bienvenu, drew inspiration from 20th-century American comics for the derby set amongst the stars. Depicting a robot horse yet so sci-fi it’s not immediately obvious, the painting is both overt and subtle in its reference to the longstanding equestrian history of Hermès, which was was founded as a saddle maker. And that also explains the signature Arceau watch case, which has an asymmetrical outline inspired by a stirrup. Detail rendered spectacularly by hand The diamond-set, 38 mm variant is clearly for women, while the 41 mm versions are unisex. Between the two lar...
Quill & Pad
Throughout history, hundreds of talented watchmakers have left their mark on the science and industry of timekeeping. For the inaugural edition of WOHS (Watchmakers of Historical Significance), Joshua Munchow highlights an engineer that has used technology to push forward since his beginnings, creating a company that is not only a leading brand among independents, but also a supplier to many established brands: the incredible yet humble Romain Gauthier.
Time+Tide
Watch enthusiasts love Grand Seiko. But the question of whether top-tier bidders would paddle up for the brand at a Phillips auction remained uncertain – until this weekend at least. The reason? Unfortunately some narrow-minded collectors have been known to shun anything that is not Swiss made, with a clear inclination for Patek Phillipe and … ContinuedThe post Growing status of Grand Seiko reflected by results at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
For 2021 MB&F; is launching a new series of its Legacy Machine 101 with a trio of new dial colours and, for the first time, a watch in stainless steel.
Revolution
A new deep hue of green arrives in the ever-cool-looking and most classic of the Carrera chronographs.
Time+Tide
I still remember the morning that the Zenith brand manager for Australia stepped into the T+T HQ, excited to show us what he’d brought with him on that summer day. The watch roll unfurled and we all saw it for the first time – the Zenith Chronomaster – a watch that we all knew would … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rose Gold brings warmth to a winning design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Introduction Whether it’s flaunting your bling or showing your mates just how good that new tropic strap looks on your Seiko Turtle, there’s no denying that the modern interest in watches is massively fuelled by Instagram, Alongside the wrist roll and the flat-lay shot, one of the most popular depictions is the apparently casual pocket … ContinuedThe post Watch photography made easy: How to master the pocket shot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Though taking the form of its signature aviation-instrument watch, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military is the latest in a lineage of dive watches that started in 1997. Pilot’s watches are its bread and butter, but Bell & Ross (B&R;) has been making high-spec dive watches almost since its founding in 1992. Five years later it launched the Hydromax, which was created in collaboration with Sinn. Featuring a case filled with incompressible synthetic oil, the Hydromax boasted a staggering water-resistance rating of 11,100 m. Two decades later, B&R; launched the BR 03-92 Diver, which transformed the aviation-instrument case into a diving tool with a 300 m depth rating. First unveiled in steel, and subsequently also in either bronze or ceramic, the newest iteration of the BR 03-92 Diver has a functional olive-green dial that evokes the military inspiration behind many of the brand’s watches. Initial thoughts On the surface, the BR 03-92 Diver Military is seemingly a mere facelift, a new dial for the BR 03-92 Diver Black of 2019. Only the olive-green dial is new – but it makes a difference. While green seems to be the colour du jour for 2021, the olive-drab dial colour underscores the B&R; spirit perfectly. The brand often looks to the military for inspiration – and has made watches for both police and military units in France – while being inclined towards a vintage style, particularly in its round watches. Best described as a retro-military colour that evokes unif...
Deployant
We published our curated list of Tool Watches in 2015 and 2016. Here is our latest take on the state of Tool Watches with this list of 6 of the best.
Time+Tide
Adrian Aldred has always had an under-the radar and unconventional approach to the watch world. At age 19, he bought a Rolex AirKing using the cash saved from his barbering job and through design college used his student loans to buy more watches. He flipped to being a seller after discovering the Italian brand Locman, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Convopiece is the ultra bespoke service that will make the watch of your dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Tenuta San Guido's 2015 Sassicaia was a warm vintage but an exceptional one, and that is reflected in the wine. It is considered to have similarities with the sensational vintage conditions of 1985, which Ken Gargett has tasted twice and has rated 100 points standing on its head both times. Sassicaia is one of the most famous wines of Italy, and often one of the country’s very best.
Time+Tide
Like I say in this video, separating what’s “actually” new versus what a brand tells you is new, and what’s truly innovative from the marketing spin is practically a daily task in watch media. Do. Not. Believe. The. Press. Releases. So, when you ask four hardened hacks from the field for four watches that were … ContinuedThe post RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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