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INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer

The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer is their latest pilot’s watch. It features both GMT and chronograph complications. It’s a nice balance between sporty and dressy. We’ve shown a lot of love to Brellum’s Pandial series of watches in the past, but it’s been far too long since we’ve showcased their other capabilities. The new … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Iconic Chronographs & Jumping Hours Worn & Wound
Vulcain Chronograph Vulcain may be Feb 9, 2023

eBay Finds: Iconic Chronographs & Jumping Hours

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova White Prince Jump Hour First up this week we have a really special one. This 1932 Bulova White Prince jump hour / direct read dress watch is truly rare, and this example is in superb condition. I used to collect these 1930’s Deco Bulovas and this has to be the nicest one I’ve ever seen. The hour, minute and seconds are shown on rotating discs through the viewports cut into the case. I mean, does it get any cooler than this?? The 26mm chrome plated case is in excellent condition and looks super sharp. Seller states the caliber 10AT movement has been serviced and runs well. The time discs look original and quite nice with some patina. These really don’t show up for sale all that often, especially in this condition. If this “jumps” out at you, don’t let it slip away. View auction here. Vintage Vulcain Chronograph Vulcain may be famous for their iconic alarm watches, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this simple classic two register chronograph. The silver dial is really clean and has nice big chono subdials. Large stick hands with lume lines in them make this one really easy to read. The case is chrome plated with a steel back, but there doesn’...

Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph Worn & Wound
Baltic among others Feb 9, 2023

Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph

Back in 2018 we reviewed a watch from Meraud called the Bonaire, a time-only diver with some stylish undertones that elevated it from mere neo-vintage diver from a micro-brand status. In closing, Ilya expressed excitement about the future of the brand, and how that might manifest in different models. This week, we’re finally getting a look at the next chapter with the release of the hand-wound chronograph called the Antigua. This is a watch no longer content with stylish undertones, instead opting for outright stylish, full stop. The Antigua oozes personality from damn near every angle, and while not without fault, this is a watch that’s not just fun, but unexpected.  Colorful hand-wound chronographs from small independent brands are certainly enjoying a moment thanks to the likes of Studio Underd0g, Lorier, and Baltic, among others, and Meraud carves their own path with the Antigua thanks to the well considered design (a trait shared by the others cited above), and the somewhat unconventional choice of movement. I wouldn’t go so far as to call the Antigua an anomaly, but it manages a fine balance between safe and comfortable, and quirky and strange, landing somewhere in the middle. It’s the best kind of follow up to a promising start, and I only wish it had come a little sooner, as this is a brand I’d like to see more from. $1917 Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement Landeron 248 Dial Soft Sand, Miho Black Lume Supe...

Windup Watch Shop Valentine’s Day Sales You Don’t Want To Miss Worn & Wound
Feb 9, 2023

Windup Watch Shop Valentine’s Day Sales You Don’t Want To Miss

T’is the season of love and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Time is running out to get that special someone a gift they’ll always cherish. Remember…flowers die but watches last forever! Now through February 17th we are having a huge sale to give our customers something special just for them. Scroll below for some of our favorite deals and be sure to check out our Valentine’s Promo Page for even more! T’is the season of love and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Time is running out to get that special someone a gift they’ll always cherish. Remember…flowers die but watches last forever! Now through February 17th we are having a huge sale to give our customers something special just for them. Scroll below for some of our favorite deals and be sure to check out our Valentine’s Promo Page for even more! The post Windup Watch Shop Valentine’s Day Sales You Don’t Want To Miss appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 9, 2023

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Having redesigned the Polo to suit contemporary tastes in 2016, Piaget now debuts most complicated watch in its sports watch line, the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. With a steel case just 8.65 mm high, it’s dressed in the very current shade of dark green. Though the complication isn’t new for Piaget or even luxury-sports watches more broadly, the perpetual calendar takes the Polo into new territory as an upscale, complicated watch. The model was introduced in 1979 as a chunky watch with a geometric design rendered entirely in yellow gold, reflecting the popular style of the era. Today’s Polo bears little resemblance to its historical namesake and instead opts for a design in tune with today’s preference for sports watches in that aren’t round. Initial thoughts The new perpetual calendar is essentially the same proposition as its simpler brethren in the Polo line – a design and complication similar to more established luxury-sports watches, but at a more affordable price. So it has a patterned dial, cushion-shaped case, matching steel bracelet, and a retail price of US$58,500. That’s a reasonable ask considering its intrinsic features like finishing and complication.  On the other hand, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5740/1G or recently launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 26586TI cost well into the six figures – but they are also more sophisticated mechanically and executed with much more refinement. In short,...

The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Feb 8, 2023

The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them

Rolex watches are indisputably some of the most popular and coveted timepieces on the planet, and every watch enthusiast has their own ideas about (and often their own criteria for) what the best Rolex watches are. But how much do you really know about how your favorite Rolex model came about, why exactly it's so special and distinct from all the rest, and in some cases why it is historically significant to the watch industry as a whole? In this feature, we take a tour through nine of the most important and/or interesting Rolex watches, from their original conception to their place in the modern horological canon.  Origins of an Icon The most famous Swiss watch brand in the world was originally not even Swiss: it was founded by a German in the United Kingdom. Hans Wilsdorf (1861-1960), an orphan raised by his uncles in Kulmbach, Germany, learned entrepreneurship and self-sufficiency early in life, and began his career in the Swiss watch industry in 1900 when he started as a clerk at the watchmaking firm of Cuno Korten in La Chaux-de-Fonds, responsible for the maintenance and accuracy of hundreds of pocket watches per day. In 1905, two years after moving to London, Wilsdorf (below) partnered with another businessman named Alfred Davis to establish Wilsdorf & Davis, the company that would become Rolex. Wilsdorf & Davis, based in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district, was founded with a mandate to make reliably precise watches at affordable prices.  In 1914, days...

Review: the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Feb 8, 2023

Review: the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

There’s a lot of talk among watch collectors of “signature watches.” Watches that essentially serve to define a brand, or even an entire category. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is a perfect example of a signature watch. Can you even imagine Omega without it? You can’t – it’s integral to the whole operation. They have other collections, sure, but they live and die with the Speedmaster.  Does Oris have a signature watch? I walk by an Oris authorized dealer in my neighborhood just about every day, and there’s a giant decal on the side of their building prominently featuring an Oris Aquis. For as long as I can remember, this authorized dealer has had this kind of marketing in this specific place, always featuring an Aquis. Is the Aquis Oris’s signature watch? I think for many collectors it might be. It’s a modern tool watch (with an integrated bracelet, well before the hype) that has specs making it competitive with virtually any well known diver, but thanks to the aforementioned bracelet it has something unique about it that can only be Oris.  It’s possible that to an even wider swath of customers, the Divers 65 is the Oris signature watch. I can remember when this watch was first reissued in a modern context, and it was something of a phenomenon. It put Oris on the map for many enthusiasts entering the hobby at the beginning of a boom time for the entire industry, and remains a key watch in the vintage throwback category that virtually every brand...

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Victorinox Gift Guide Feb 8, 2023

A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving

If you think about the typical Valentine’s Day gifts, whether it’s flowers or chocolates, they tend to lean on the temporary side of gifting. Here at Worn & Wound, we like our gifts to be much for long-lasting and put the fun into functional. So who wouldn’t love to get some bright red Victorinox gear to celebrate a day typically full of red bouquets that’ll decay or red boxes of sweets that’ll disappear more quickly than they probably should. We know we’d choose a Victorinox for Valentine’s Day. The post A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Bulova Makes a Stronger (and Smaller) Case for Why You Should Add the Lunar Pilot Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bulova Makes Feb 8, 2023

Bulova Makes a Stronger (and Smaller) Case for Why You Should Add the Lunar Pilot Chronograph

The history of the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph is a nebulous one. Sure, its claim to fame is that it was worn on the moon’s surface by astronaut Dave Scott during the 1971 Apollo 15 mission. As the story goes, Scott’s issued Omega Speedmaster malfunctioned during his second moonwalk, which opened up the door for his personal Bulova Lunar Pilot to get some action. But there were always questions to be answered in regards to where its design came from, what movement it used, and how it got into Scott’s possession in the first place. If you’re an Apollo enthusiast, moonwatch enthusiast, or both, then I’m sure these queries already have the gears turning. But before you move that cursor over to your browser search bar, I strongly suggest you stay right here and check out this editorial piece written back in 2016 by W&W; contributor, Hung Doan, as he covers all the bases in this interesting piece of investigative journalism. Alright, welcome back! Interesting bit of history, right? Dave Scott’s Bulova Worn On The Moon During The Apollo 15 Mission Fast forward to today, Bulova has announced that they are expanding their Lunar Pilot Chronograph line with two brand new models – a black dial and accompanying subdials harkening back to the traditional steel case special edition model and a cream textured dial with navy blue accents. Both variations get a new and improved case that’ll be more suitable for a wider range of wrist sizes, as well as a cleaner dial layou...

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest version yet Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda Feb 8, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest version yet

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest member of the collection thus far Joins the black reverse panda model from 2018 with a silver panda colourway Powered by the in-house calibre 5200, complete with Geneva Seal and solid gold rotor engraved with a compass rose The Overseas from Vacheron Constantin has been the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest version yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Announces NFT Lottery for Latest Takashi Murakami Edition SJX Watches
Hublot Announces NFT Lottery Feb 8, 2023

Hublot Announces NFT Lottery for Latest Takashi Murakami Edition

A frequent partner of notable personalities ranging from artists to celebrity chefs, Hublot’s most notable collaboration is the partnership with Takashi Murakami, the Japanese contemporary artist whose “Superflat”, anime-inspired art has gained acclaim and spawned a commercial empire. Having two sold-out Murakami editions under its belt, Hublot now debuts a third, the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow. More specifically, it’s a single unique wristwatch, along with a dozen more (slightly less) unique watches, for a total of 13. They will be sold via a lottery that can be entered only by owners of the non-fungible tokens (NFT) that were given to owners of the first two editions, the monochromatic original in black diamonds and its chromatic opposite, the transparent and technicolour Sapphire Rainbow. Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe (left) with Takashi Murakami at the launch event in New York Initial thoughts While Hublot puts out many collaboration editions, too many by my estimation, the Murakami watches stand out for being visually simple yet striking. And they have a whimsical aspect that captures Murakami’s style perfectly. The 13 unique editions combine the best of the prior two editions – the rainbow flower from the sapphire model with the all-black ceramic case. The monochromatic case is a perfect canvas for the rainbow flower, the essence of Murakami. And in terms of value, the Murakami watches – at least the first and cur...

Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants to the Petite Seconde Collection Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants Feb 7, 2023

Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants to the Petite Seconde Collection

Louis Erard has unveiled their first new watches of 2023, and they build on one of the brand’s key developments from last year. Usually when this brand comes to mind, enthusiasts think of their watches with regulator layouts, and the many interesting collaborations they’ve undertaken in the last few years as they’ve really gained traction with collectors. The Petite Seconde, part of their Excellence collection, is perhaps a little slept on by comparison. These are simple three handers, and not as flashy or unusual as the regulators (well, except for this one), but they have a charm of their own and represent a kind of simple, elegant watch that used to be quite common but is now harder to find in an environment dominated by sport and tool watches. The new watches introduced today all use plenty of vibrant color, and come in a case size that collectors have been asking for.  The 39mm Petite Seconde case seen here made its debut just about a year ago with the Petite Seconde Terracotta, a coppery, earthy spin on a traditional format. Until that point, the Petite Seconde had only been available in a 42mm case, which while not enormous by most standards, certainly stretched the limits for a watch of this type, which is at least attempting to approach a certain level of refinement. Notably, the Terracotta was available in either a 39mm or 42mm case, while no such option has been made available for this colorful trio. We’re not sure if that’s a signal that Louis Erard ...

INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary Time+Tide
MB&F; Feb 7, 2023

INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary

A decade after its first release, the MB&F; LM2 is back in a special palladium case Symmetrically opposed balance wheels connected by a planetary differential Movement developed by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode and finished by Kari Voutilainen By this point, it should be no surprise that whatever comes out of the fun factory in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget Goes Ultra-Thin for New Polo Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Richard Mille Feb 7, 2023

Piaget Goes Ultra-Thin for New Polo Perpetual Calendar

The trend toward ultra-thin highly complicated watches has reached a fever pitch in recent years, and there’s no sign of that trend slowing anytime soon. Piaget has been at the forefront of ultra-thin watches for many decades, most recently claiming the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with their Altiplano Ultimate Concept in 2020 (which was subsequently broken by Bulgari, and then Richard Mille). This year, they’re returning to the ultra-thin game with a new Polo Perpetual Calendar that measures a mere 8.56mm in thickness. This marks the first appearance of the perpetual calendar complication within the current generation of the Polo, and it should come as no surprise that it works rather well.  The Piaget Polo was redesigned in 2016 with a more refined presentation of their sports watch language. The round case features a slightly squared, TV shaped dial opening creating just enough tension to set it apart in a crowd. This was a notable departure from earlier Polo designs, which have never been shy about embracing their era. The newest Polo design feels timeless to my eye, but history will be the judge there. The design has shown flexibility, with the openworked Skeleton Automatic, and even on the very high end housing the brand’s ornate minute repeater in this Polo Emperador. The Polo Perpetual Calendar is the most complex Polo to date, and effectively uses the 42mm case to showcase their take on the QP. The information is presented in a clear and easy to unde...

The New Bulova Lunar Pilot 43.5 – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Bulova Lunar Pilot 43.5 – Feb 7, 2023

The New Bulova Lunar Pilot 43.5 – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop

Between the Astronaut and Lunar Pilot models, Bulova has a serious history with watches worn in space. One of the most common bits of feedback was the size of the Lunar Pilot, and they’ve taken that to heart. They’ve shrunk the case down to the original proportions of the actual watches worn in space – bumping from 45mm down to the historically accurate 43.5mm. Between the Astronaut and Lunar Pilot models, Bulova has a serious history with watches worn in space. One of the most common bits of feedback was the size of the Lunar Pilot, and they’ve taken that to heart. They’ve shrunk the case down to the original proportions of the actual watches worn in space – bumping from 45mm down to the historically accurate 43.5mm. The post The New Bulova Lunar Pilot 43.5 – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Feb 7, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”

The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”.  Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Enough with the digital renders – brands need decent photography Time+Tide
Feb 7, 2023

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Enough with the digital renders – brands need decent photography

One of the most common tips given to watch shoppers is to go and see their potential purchases in the metal before buying them. Not only is it beneficial to feel how they fit on your wrist, but also how they interact with real-world lighting and real-life eyeballs. In the online age, and especially post-COVID, … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Enough with the digital renders – brands need decent photography appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq Worn & Wound
Norqain Gets Adventurous Feb 6, 2023

[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq

I see plenty of discussion around the idea of a GADA watch within the watch enthusiast space, that is the concept of a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Of course, each of us has our own criteria for what the perfect GADA watch must have, but these are generally watches that do a good job of skirting between the boundaries of any specific genre. Ultimately, a watch is what we make of it; clearly not many of us are divers or pilots, yet many of us enjoy watches specifically ascribed to these realms. We’ve seen a growing trend of brands simply labeling their watches in broadly generic terms, like ‘active watch’ or ‘sport watch’ implying it can stand up to the rigors of more average human activities. More walks in the park or sledding with your kids and less diving to 300 meters or calculating fuel loads in an old war plane.  I say all this to set up the discussion around a new(ish) watch from Norqain called the Wild One, a watch which the brand describes as the “ultimate sports watch”. It’s got all the impressive specs you’d associate with modern dive or field watches, like a 300 meter depth rating and a chronometer rated movement, but it’s not being positioned explicitly as a dive watch, or a field watch. It’s a sports watch. For my lifestyle, a GADA watch closely resembles what I’d consider a sports watch, so this billing was good news to me. It should be easy to wear regardless of activity, able to put up with some light wear and tear, be legible, a...

Maurice Lacroix Teams Up with Mohindra Racing for a New Aikon Tide Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Teams Up Feb 6, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Teams Up with Mohindra Racing for a New Aikon Tide

It’s been almost a year since Maurice Lacroix unveiled the Aikon Tide watches. These colorful sports watches made from up-cycled ocean plastics represent a new entry point into the Maurice Lacroix collection, coming in at under $1,000 and making an overt play for the hard earned cash of a younger watch consumer. When the watches launched a year ago, many in the community rolled their eyes at another brand jumping on the green bandwagon with a “plastic” watch. But in the months since the Tide’s launch, a plastic watch of a different variety has absolutely taken over the watch world. The MoonSwatch is, admittedly, at a lower price point, but the enthusiastic response to those watches proves that nontraditional and considerably less expensive materials are capable of catching on in the right package. The Tide, then, isn’t going anywhere, and Maurice Lacroix has just unveiled a new version with their partners at Mahindra Racing in an appealing new colorway that might serve to remind some that there are other brands to consider in the plastic watch realm.  Maurice Lacroix has had a relationship with Mahindra Racing since 2020. The team is part of the founding group of the ABB FIA Formula E World Championship, which is the premier circuit for the latest crop of single seater electric race cars. The new crop of electrics are serious pieces of tech unto themselves, with lightning quick acceleration and top speeds approaching 200 miles per hour. As with F1 and other moto...

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chronograph: Run, Don’t Walk, It Was The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Available Today (Until Sold Out)- Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 6, 2023

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chronograph: Run, Don’t Walk, It Was The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Available Today (Until Sold Out)- Reprise

Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Fearless is the brand’s first field watch Time+Tide
Feb 6, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Fearless is the brand’s first field watch

There’s a romanticisation that surrounds firefighting that’s been around since the profession’s inception. Firemen are mentioned by wide-eyed children in the same breath as astronauts and secret agents, and sometimes the glorification of the job can overshadow the genuine danger and sacrifice it actually involves. William Wood have built their brand upon honouring these legends, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Fearless is the brand’s first field watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.