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VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection Jun 10, 2021

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true

The last release of the Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection provoked extreme jealousy all around the world. The reason for this is that it was only available in the USA, which seemed dreadfully unfair for the rest of us. Thankfully, the collection is now back and this time it’s available for all. Despite the prodigious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Safari SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 9, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Safari

In a year where green dials have become a major fad, Zenith is keeping up with the Chronomaster Revival Safari, a chronograph “inspired by the great outdoors” according to the brand. Pairing a matte khaki-green dial with faux-aged “lume” and an El Primero A384 in blasted titanium, the Chronomaster Revival Safari is one of the more unusual El Primero remakes to date, despite its fashionable colour. Initial thoughts If the Chronomaster Revival Safari looks familiar, that’s because it’s essentially the Chronomaster Revival Shadow in green. The Shadow was one of my favourite recent watches from Zenith, so that’s a good thing. In fact, the microblasted titanium case suits the safari theme better than the monochromatic Shadow. Lightweight and non-reflective, titanium makes sense for a watch that’s meant to be for the great outdoors. However, “faux-patina” on the hands and indices is a tad affected, especially considering the Safari is not a vintage remake, but rather a modern design conceived to capitalise on green dials being in vogue. With a price tag of US$9,000, the new Chronomaster Revival Safari costs about 10% more than the Shadow and the A385 on a bracelet, making it less of a value proposition compared to the rest of the Revival lineup. Nevertheless, it’s still a fair buy relative to the rest of the market. And given the current popularity of green-dial watches, the Safari will prove to be a commercial success. Jungle ready The green dial has a mat...

History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Jun 5, 2021

History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari

In this non-chronological multipart series called “History of Ferrari Watches,” Elizabeth Doerr takes us through a comprehensive look into the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari collaboration, which took place between 1993 and 2004 and culminated in the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Tribute to Enzo Ferrari Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges perpetual calendar chronograph.

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Jun 4, 2021

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts on Show in Geneva

Patek Philippe has made it a tradition to stage an annual exhibition of the year’s unique and limited edition watches decorated using fine artisanal techniques, some of which are distinctive to the brand. This year’s Rare Handcrafts Exhibition will take place June 16 to July 3 at its usual venue, the historical Patek Philippe Salon along the ritzy Rue du Rhone, just at the edge of Lake Geneva. The year’s Rare Handcrafts lineup is made up of 75 timepieces, encompassing pocket- and wristwatches as well as clocks – all of which will be on display. But the exhibition will be twice as large, thanks to the 70 timepieces of the 2020 collection that were never showcased as last year’s exhibition was cancelled. And the exhibition will also include some of this year’s newly launched wristwatches. One of this year’s Rare Handcrafts, the pocket watch ref. 995/122J “Panda” decorated with wood marquetry on the back, engraving on the case, and flinqué enamel on the dial Visitors can expect to see a wide-ranging array of traditional decorative techniques on the watches and clocks, including a variety of enamelling methods, such as cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, fauré, miniature and Limoges painting, as well as unusual Longwy enamelling that’s named after the French town where it was invented. Gem-setting and wood marquetry will also be on show. And there will be also be artisans on hand to demonstrate their craft – including enamelling, engraving, marquetry an...

A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux teams up Jun 2, 2021

A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges

You never really know what to expect from a brand collaboration. When I first saw that Aston Martin had teamed up with Girard-Perregaux, courtesy of the gorgeous green-liveried Formula 1 team, I assumed that we’d soon see the likes of Sebastian Vettel and Lance Stroll sporting something like a special-edition Laureato in British Racing Green. … ContinuedThe post A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Unveils the Aquanaut Chronograph in 18k White Gold SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Unveils May 27, 2021

Patek Philippe Unveils the Aquanaut Chronograph in 18k White Gold

First introduced in 2018 in the lively colours of grey and orange, the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968A was a surprising execution from a brand typically conservative in style. Patek Philippe now expands the model line with the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G in white gold, available in either midnight blue (ref. 5968G-001) or khaki green (ref. 5968G-010). Initial thoughts The new Aquanaut Chronograph iterates an existing model by drawing on elements from other Aquanauts. The midnight blue and khaki green dials are familiar because they are found on the time-only Aquanaut Ref. 5168G that’s also in white gold. Dial and case metal aside, the new chronographs are identical to the ref. 5968A of three years ago. Although the colourways aren’t novel, they are good looking, conveying a contemporary aesthetic that complements the sporty nature of the Aquanaut Chronograph. The bright colours, juxtaposed against the case of white gold – traditionally a metal for formal occasions – exemplifies the modern concept of a sports watch where it’s more luxury than sport. Between the two, my pick would be the midnight blue: its gradient finish is striking, and better reflects the elegance and historical style that are quintessentially Patek Philippe. My pick out of the two The retail price of the new chronograph is a hefty US$69,190, which is about 50% more than the steel version. Though steep, the increment is conventional for a precious metal case relative to steel. But given th...

Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again) SJX Watches
Seiko Reinterprets May 27, 2021

Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again)

Twenty-twenty marked 55 years since Seiko’s first foray into dive watches, which was the ref. 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Naturally, it introduced myriad vintage remakes to mark the occasion – not only of the “62MAS” but also other dive watches of the era like the ref. 6105 “Turtle”. A year on, Seiko continues with a pair of remakes: the 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS” (ref. SPB239) and the 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation “Turtle” (ref. SPB237), both powered by the mid-range 6R35 movement, making them affordable. The “6105” remake with a textured grey dial Initial thoughts There have been numerous remakes of Seiko dive watches, including several limited editions – but all are practical, affordable watches, so more isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The result is a variety of iterated case and dial combinations with something for almost everyone. The new models are as good looking as their immediate predecessors, since they are essentially alike save for minor tweaks, namely the woven-fabric strap and dial colour. The “62MAS” remake with a brown “sunburst” dial Each model is delivered with a pair of NATO-style fabric straps that add a bit of vintage charm to the look, especially compared to the rubber straps usually found on dive watches. Although the fabric straps are merely, well, fabric straps, they are special. The straps are braided with the technique known as seichu, traditionally used to weave obijime, the co...

Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline SJX Watches
Cartier May 22, 2021

Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline

After a weak first half, Richemont’s business started its turnaround in the second half of the financial year, which ended in March 2021. From a 25% year-on-year revenue decline in the first half at constant exchange rates, the Swiss luxury group enjoyed a 36% rise in sales in the last quarter. As a result, revenue for the full year was down just 5% compared to the year before, to slightly over €13 billion. The healthy numbers and positive outlook helped send Richemont shares past 100 Swiss francs during trading, a five-year high. Divergent fates Beneath the strong recovery in the group’s numbers lay a recurring theme: a disparity in performance between regions, channels, and divisions. This echoes that of its rivals and the broader luxury-good industry – characterised by a strong recovery in Asia, moderate recovery in the United States, and continued weakness in Europe. And within the group, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are powering ahead, leaving most of its watchmakers lagging. Continuing a trend that began in the third quarter, sales in Asia Pacific – all Asian countries except Japan – rose by a staggering 106% in the final quarter, boosting revenue in the region by 22% for the year. Asia Pacific sales are now the largest proportion of Richemont’s revenue at 45% of the total, compared to the historical one-third share. The performance was driven by strong sales in China, both in Richemont’s physical stores and its online mall on Alibaba’s Tmall Lu...

#Kixntix: Get eco-warrior chic with the new Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai lifted with a pop of Supreme red Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai May 22, 2021

#Kixntix: Get eco-warrior chic with the new Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai lifted with a pop of Supreme red

Here’s a #Kixntix with a conscience. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai is more than the sum of its soft green ceramic case and industrial-chic movement. This is a camo-clad warrior with a mission, supporting former cricketer Kevin Pietersen and his conservation charity, SORAI – Save Our Rhino Africa India. The rhino population is dwindling … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: Get eco-warrior chic with the new Hublot Big Bang Unico Sorai lifted with a pop of Supreme red appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium Launched May 19, 2021

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium

Launched just earlier in the year, the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium is a follow up to the original, which was historically faithful in terms of the design. The new titanium version, however, is more compelling. The titanium BigEye retains the same design, but gets a new look with the blue dial and titanium case. Both substantially change its look and feel for the better, while retaining the usual affordability of Longines’ many remakes. Initial thoughts The new Avigation BigEye departs from the typical Longines formula for remakes, which to faithfully reproduce as far as possible, right down to the spotting on old dials. In contrast, the Avigation BigEye in titanium preserves the design of the remake, but renders the dial in a clearly modern texture and colour. And of course the case is titanium. Notably, the new Avigation BigEye, along with other recent remakes like the Legend Diver in bronze, appear to mark a shift in Longines’ strategy for its historically-inspired watches. Instead of concentrating merely on one-for-one replicas, Longines is making them more interesting with modern colours and materials. That’s a good thing, especially given the obvious fact that Longines’ designers have shown themselves to possess a good eye. They manage to tweak existing designs while preserving the spirit of the original, as demonstrated by the BigEye in titanium. The result is a lightweight, and good looking watch. It does have the shortcomings of the steel versio...

Antiques Roadshow guest tears up after discovering value of dad’s vintage Rolex “Red” Submariner Time+Tide
Rolex Red” Submariner May 17, 2021

Antiques Roadshow guest tears up after discovering value of dad’s vintage Rolex “Red” Submariner

For anyone who collects vintage watches, Antiques Roadshow is like whale song, or the sound of rain on a tin roof – ASMR for those with an undiagnosed hoarding condition. Don’t worry, I’m describing myself too. It’s the public sharing of an almost entirely forgotten history of rare and beautiful objects, the knowledge of which … ContinuedThe post Antiques Roadshow guest tears up after discovering value of dad’s vintage Rolex “Red” Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Behind The Lens: Vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3450J Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 3450J Despite May 15, 2021

Behind The Lens: Vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3450J

Despite the virus restrictions, GaryG has managed to venture out from time to time for brief, top-secret rendezvous in parking lots and on park benches to receive and return the generous loans of friends’ watches to photograph. Recently, he had the chance to shoot a true classic: a second-series Reference 3450J perpetual calendar made by Patek Philippe, which he shares with us here.

Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration SJX Watches
Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration May 14, 2021

Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration

Shortly after launching the last of the 17-series, at least under its own label, Ming is rolling out a tie up with Massena Lab – the 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab Limited Edition. Having got its start by collaborating with brands like Habring2 before introducing its eponymous brand, Massena Lab puts its own twist on the 17.09 with a honeycomb dial in either honey or black, which will be limited to 50 and 150 pieces respectively. The 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab in black Initial thoughts I loved the 17.09, so much, in fact that I placed an order for one. It’s a well-executed watch at an extremely appealing price point. Likewise, I find the 17.09 Massena Lab attractive. The two models retain the best aspects of the 17.09, such as the floating minute track, skeletonised hands, as well as Ming’s signature flared lugs. But the 17.09 Massena Lab adds a bit more intricacy to the design. When the 17.09 was announced last month, I wrote “the clous de Paris guilloché in the center is less unique than the spiral motif found on the dials of the 17.06″. The dial and its “floating” numerals By doing away with the clous de Paris in favour of honeycomb, the Massena Lab editions become eminently more striking than the standard versions. Between the two, my pick would be the honey dial – the black dial comes a tad too close to triggering my trypophobia. Priced at US$2,595 in black (and US$200 more in honey), the collaborative 17.09s are 20-30% more expensive than the standard...

G-Shock Unveils Full Metal “Rainbow” in TranTixxii Titanium SJX Watches
May 13, 2021

G-Shock Unveils Full Metal “Rainbow” in TranTixxii Titanium

Oblong in shape and entirely resin, the original G-Shock has evolved in recent years into something altogether more fancy, while retaining the signature 5000-series design. While the traditional resin models remain in the line up, the Full Metal collection has rapidly grown to include models in steel, titanium, as well as in ridiculous-but-cool 18k yellow gold. Taking things to the next level is the G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000TR. Made of a newly-developed titanium alloy that’s twice as hard as pure titanium, the latest Full Metal model has an unapologetically bold  “rainbow” bracelet with links in four different colours. Initial thoughts I was shocked when I first saw the multicolour bracelet – it seemed too much. But I let it sit for a day, and the look started to grow on me. The Full Metal “Rainbow” is a G-Shock that truly caters to the enthusiasts, because it is so different and so unexpected, yet executed to a high standard – attributes that mark it out as a serious G-Shock for the collector who is willing to pay a premium for such things. Echoing the bracelet, the digital display is also multicolour The foundations of the watch are strong. Now almost 40 years old, the design remains durable – the square case is the iconic G-Shock – and looks as good as it did in 1983 when the DW-5000 made its debut. Rendering the design in rainbow colours and a new titanium alloy only adds to the appeal. That said, this is the latest of many, many Full Metal mode...

Hermès Debuts Sci-Fi Pop Art in Miniature Painting SJX Watches
Casio nally whimsical style Hermès May 12, 2021

Hermès Debuts Sci-Fi Pop Art in Miniature Painting

Defined by its refined and occasionally whimsical style, Hermès emphasises whimsy with the new Arceau Space Derby, which reinterprets the Space Derby scarves, repurposing the sci-fi motif as miniature paintings for the wrist. The Arceau Space Derby will be available in two sizes: the smaller 38 mm with a diamond bezel and pink opaline glass dial, as well as two larger 41 mm models with dials in aventurine glass. The small model is limited to 24 pieces, while only 12 each will be made of the large models. The smaller version with a pink opaline glass dial Initial thoughts I absolutely love the Arceau Space Derby. Hermès makes a diversity of goods, from leather to clothing to high-end homeware, but often sharing the same motifs that are typically appealing and original. So its habit of looking into its past designs for its wristwatches is brilliant. The illustrator of Space Derby, French comic artist Ugo Bienvenu, drew inspiration from 20th-century American comics for the derby set amongst the stars. Depicting a robot horse yet so sci-fi it’s not immediately obvious, the painting is both overt and subtle in its reference to the longstanding equestrian history of Hermès, which was was founded as a saddle maker. And that also explains the signature Arceau watch case, which has an asymmetrical outline inspired by a stirrup. Detail rendered spectacularly by hand The diamond-set, 38 mm variant is clearly for women, while the 41 mm versions are unisex. Between the two lar...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Full Lum SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Apr 29, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Full Lum

Though best known for its square, aviation-instrument watches, Bell & Ross actually offers a varied lineup of conventional, round watches that nonetheless remain military inspired, such as the BR V2-94. The brand now gives its vintage-inspired chronograph a fully luminescent makeover to create the BR V2-94 Full Lum. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross implemented the fully-luminescent dial on BR 03-92 Full Lum (which even had a luminous strap), so the dial treatment is not novel. However, it’s a first for one of the brand’s round watches. If you are a fan of the “Full Lum” concept but dislike large square watches, then the “lumed-out” BR V2-94 is right up your alley. And while its full-luminous dial is undoubtedly the watch’s biggest selling point, it isn’t a gimmick that appears merely after sundown. The BR V2-94 is eye-catching even in daylight. The luminous dial is a pale, mint green that’s akin to that in the new Breitling Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel. Furthermore, the BR V2-94 is perhaps the best-looking round watch in Bell & Ross’ current catalogue, good enough that I almost pulled the trigger on the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze a while back. The BR V2-94 is a design that successfully fuses the brand’s military-issue heritage with a contemporary look. My only knock is the lack of luminous paint on the bezel as well as the date, which feel like odd exceptions for a “Full Lum” watch. The non-luminous date leaves a dark spot on the glowing ...

Krayon Introduces the Eastern-Arabic Anywhere SJX Watches
Krayon Apr 28, 2021

Krayon Introduces the Eastern-Arabic Anywhere

Founded by movement constructor Rémi Maillat in 2013, Krayon made waves when it debuted the Everywhere – a mechanical computer able to indicate sunrise and sunset times anywhere in the world – before following up with the more affordable Anywhere, which fulfils the same function for a single, fixed location. Now Krayon is introducing a special run of the Anywhere created in partnership with Perpétuel, a newly-established retailer in Dubai, in colours “inspired by the mythical desert”. Limited to 15 pieces, the Krayon x Perpétuel Anywhere features Eastern Arabic numerals and a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Essentially a facelift of the standard model, the Perpétuel edition is distinguished by its colours – black and pale orange – as well as the Eastern Arabic numerals. While the tweaks are modest, it is nonetheless sharply executed, sporting a striking aesthetic that sets it apart from the blue or cream dials of the regular versions. More fundamentally, the Anywhere is particularly functional as a special-edition watch for the Middle East. Given that the Anywhere indicates sunrise and sunset times, it is eminently useful for clients in Perpétuel’s home market, where Islam is the predominant religion. The ninth month of the Islamic calendar, known as Ramadan – which is taking place right now – requires Muslims to fast from sunrise until sunset. The standard version of the Anywhere However, with a price tag of CHF118,800, the Anywher...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 27, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque

Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin like Apr 23, 2021

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni

Founded by watchmaking genius Ludwig Oechslin, best known for the inventive timepieces he created for Ulysse Nardin like the Freak and Trilogy of Time, Ochs und Junior specialises in brilliantly simple complications that are minimalist, functional, and idiosyncratic in style. Dr Oechslin is best known for his calendar complications, particularly the Perpetual Ludwig he invented for Ulysse Nardin, which remains the centrepiece of his latest wristwatch, the Calendario Cent’anni. Italian for “hundred-year calendar”, the Calendario Cent’Anni (CCA) will indicate the calendar till the end of this century, like most other perpetual calendar watches, but it is executed in Ochs und Junior’s inimitable style. And while the CCA retains the Ochs und Junior look, it will be offered in three fixed variations (each named after a Roman numeral), instead of being endlessly customisable as the first-generation Ochs und Junior perpetual calendar was. From left: CCA III, II and I Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars were once an expensive complication, but the proliferation of mass-produced as well as unconventional, streamlined calendar mechanisms have brought about many affordable perpetual calendars, with the cheapest starting at around US$9,000. But few perpetual calendar watches are as interesting as Dr Oechslin’s invention. While it does cost more than the most affordable perpetuals with a retail price of about US$16,600, the CCA is truly innovative. Dr Oechlin’s perpetu...

Longines are quietly having another cracking year, spanning divers, pilots and vintage Time+Tide
Longines are quietly having another Apr 16, 2021

Longines are quietly having another cracking year, spanning divers, pilots and vintage

There has been a huge amount of attention paid to Longines’ new Spirit Collection since it was launched. And rightly so. It offers a contemporary and value-packed new proposition right in the spot where buyers want it; which is a watch that can be a daily wearer that’s robust enough for most situations and well … ContinuedThe post Longines are quietly having another cracking year, spanning divers, pilots and vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.