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Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.

Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site

Seiko Monaco” chronographs Mar 1, 2022

Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Over the last five years or so, the luxury watch auction market seems to have grown more and more inaccessible for many collectors. Economist Stephen … ContinuedThe post Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976

Girard-Perregaux Revives Feb 28, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976

Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...

The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights

Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning Feb 26, 2022

The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights

Twenty-five years – a quarter of a century – is a long time. But it’s not that long for a watch manufacturer. In 1996, Chopard's co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele proudly introduced Caliber 1.96 to the world, his brand's very first in-house movement. Here Martin Green highlights a few of his favorites from the 25-year-old L.U.C collection.

Watchmaking legend Philippe Dufour looks to one particular brand for his daily wearer…

Philippe Dufour. It’s a name any die-hard watch enthusiast should know. Considered by many as the greatest living watchmaker today, Dufour is known for his unrivalled level of movement finishing. One of the more well-known references he creates, The Simplicity, has a bit of a misleading name. Yes, it is, on the surface, a simple … ContinuedThe post Watchmaking legend Philippe Dufour looks to one particular brand for his daily wearer… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”

Nomos Introduces Feb 26, 2022

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”

One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

Patek Philippe Introduces Feb 24, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

One of Patek Philippe’s longest standing and most important retailers in Asia, Cortina Watch celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2022. In that half century, Cortina has grown from a single store in Singapore to one of the biggest retailers in Southeast Asia with a network of 45 stores and remains controlled by the founding Lim family. As it was with its 25th anniversary in 1997, Cortina is marking the milestone with a limited edition Patek Philippe – the same model in a different guise in fact. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” preserves the design of the earlier anniversary edition, but dresses it up in a more contemporary grey and silver livery. Importantly, the ref. 5057 was a brand-new reference conceived for Cortina, which means the new edition is only the second time that the reference is seeing light of day. Initial thoughts The ref. 5057G is notable in several ways. For one, it is unusual amongst retailer editions in having complications instead of being a time-and-date Calatrava, no doubt a reflection of the especially strong ties between the Stern and Lim families. Second, the ref. 5057G harks back to the watchmaker’s aesthetic of the 1990s with its dial and hobnail bezel. This sets it apart from Patek Philippe’s recent watches, which mostly have a more contemporary style. And the ref. 5057G is intrinsically attractive. I have yet to see the watch in person, but I’ve examined the preceding ref. 5057R several ...

New: SEVENFRIDAY T03 Tiger Editions

New: SEVENFRIDAY T03 Tiger Editions

Sevenfriday releases their Year of the Tiger watches in two colourways- red and green: the Sevenfriday Tiger Series T3/04 Grrr-een and T3/05 Grrr-ed.

Entry Level: The Chronomètre Souverain Havana Is A Solid-Gold Starting Point Into The World Of F.P. Journe

F.P. Journe Feb 18, 2022

Entry Level: The Chronomètre Souverain Havana Is A Solid-Gold Starting Point Into The World Of F.P. Journe

We're headed down to Havana to navigate price hikes and quartz qualifiers.

Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names?

Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names?

Sometimes I encounter a watch that makes me think of Kim Jong-il. Let me explain. With more than 1,200 official titles, the North Korean dictator boasted more aliases than the average member of the Wu-Tang Clan. These included “Guardian Deity Of The Planet”, “Ever-Victorious General”, “Lodestar of the 21st Century”, “Eternal Bosom of Hot Love” … ContinuedThe post Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Latest Q Timex Reissue Is A 43mm Gold-Tone Beast

Timex Feb 15, 2022

Introducing: The Latest Q Timex Reissue Is A 43mm Gold-Tone Beast

Fifty years ago Timex unveiled its first quartz watch. Now it's back.

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne

Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711 across Feb 13, 2022

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne

I know that 5711 Nautilus talk is getting a bit old. Run ending green dials, Tiffany blue dial madness, $6.5m dollar bids at auction etc. But now it really is gone. Done. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, across all metals, have been removed from the catalogue. While this discontinuation has skyrocketed the secondary premiums … ContinuedThe post With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance

H. Moser & Cie x Feb 10, 2022

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance

As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, the H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse should have Martin Green's name written all over it. Yet when he first saw the watch, he didn’t boil over with excitement. This is not the first logoless, minimalistic watch that Moser has made, so what does it add to what is already there? Read on to discover the answer.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F;

Omega Feb 4, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F;

It’s the Winter Olympics, an event that once again raises baffling questions for those of us who haven’t grown up in Alpine regions. Why is that skier carrying an assault rifle? What are those curling guys doing with little brooms? And what in God’s good name is the sport of monobob? But then, of course, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Retro Dive Watch Specialist Squale Unveils the 1521 Montredo

Blancpain supplied Feb 3, 2022

Retro Dive Watch Specialist Squale Unveils the 1521 Montredo

Derived from Italian for “shark”, Squale was a maker of dive watches – as well as a supplier of dive watch cases to many notable brands – that had its heyday in the 1960s and 1970s. Like most of its peers, Squale went under during the Quartz Crisis, lying dormant until 2005 when it was revived by its onetime distributor in Italy. The reborn Squale is focused once again on dive watches, with its current lineup modelled on the brand’s historical products. The flagship is the 1521, an affordable, no-frills dive watch that’s been pared back even further with the limited-edition Montredo x Squale 1521. Initial thoughts Retro dive watches are common today, especially in Squale’s price segment of under US$2,000. But Squale manages to set it apart by having historical legitimacy unlike startup brands. The Montredo edition stands out for its minimalism. The outline of the watch has been retained, but the details have been reduced to the essentials, like the bezel with only five-minute markers. The result brings to mind the military-issue dive watches of the 1970s and 1980s, most notably the Fifty Fathoms “Bund” that Blancpain supplied to the German navy – which coincidentally had a case made by Squale. In fact, the Fifty Fathoms “Bund” relied on the very “50 Atmos” case Squale used for its ref. 1521 diver, making the Montredo edition a tidy historical throwback. Ref. 1521 The 50-piece run is a collaboration between Squale and Montredo, a Berlin-based ...

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Montblanc Mr Cerrato has applied Feb 1, 2022

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...

Review: The Moritz Grossmann Hamatic in Rose Gold

Moritz Grossmann Jan 31, 2022

Review: The Moritz Grossmann Hamatic in Rose Gold

In the thick of the digital age, mechanical watchmaking finds itself in pursuit of greater efficiency within the confines of an antiquated paradigm. The coming of the quartz movement and the smartphone has made certain that mechanical watches can scarcely compare to its modern counterparts in terms of functionality. And yet mechanical watchmaking thrives today.Read More

Dandy Watches: What They Are And Why You Might Consider One – Reprise

Dandy Watches: What They Are And Why You Might Consider One – Reprise

As there is no official, universally accepted, or legally binding description of what a dandy watch is, Martin Green takes it upon himself to coin one. A dandy (like Martin) doesn't follow fashion, but walks to the beat of his own drum. Here Martin shares a few watches that he thinks are just dandy.

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) – Reprise

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) – Reprise

There was a time when the walls of many children's rooms were decorated with images of iconic supercars cars like the Ferrari Testarossa, Porsche 959, Lamborghini Countach, and McLaren F1. Today those same walls in the rooms of a new generation of kids are decorated by a completely different type of car: the super SUV. Martin Green explains why in this satirical editorial.

Review: The New Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec

Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec DEPLOYANT Jan 17, 2022

Review: The New Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec

The year was 1996, and Chopard had just inaugurated its own manufactory in Fleurier. The Chopard Manufacture was dedicated to crafting so-called “L.U.C” movements entirely decorated by hand. Today, over a quarter of a century on and dozens of models later, the L.U.C collection has grown into Chopard’s most prestigious line, with plenty of awardsRead More

Martin’s Top 5 Watches Of 2021

Martin’s Top 5 Watches Of 2021

There is a wide variety of criteria that Martin Green might apply to make a list of his top 5 watches of 2021, but he has chosen to follow the most important one: whether when he first saw the watch it brought a rush of excitement and continues to do so every time he sees it. Here he shares his five favorites of 2021, and some may surprise you.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Cartier Tank Must Collection (#11)

Cartier Tank Must Collection #11 Jan 13, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Cartier Tank Must Collection (#11)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best judging by the online traffic. At number 11, it’s the Cartier Tank Must Collection… The quartz crisis is often spoken about with abject horror, and for good reason. Japanese … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Cartier Tank Must Collection (#11) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Jan 13, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition

Naomi Osaka is undeniably one of the modern tennis greats, but where she really stands out is in the press conferences. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not a tennis fan, but her dry humour and earnest attitude makes her seem like one of the most approachable and down-to-earth athletes of this generation. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dialled down: This artist is creating the tiniest watches in the world

Dialled down: This artist is creating the tiniest watches in the world

In recent years, there’s been a noticeable trend for watch cases returning to the smaller and more classical sizes of old. Robbie Jones (@tinyassprops) takes it to a whole other level. The artist creates impeccably detailed models of miniature watches. How tiny? They have diameters under 5mm wide. “When I was five-years-old, my grandmother used … ContinuedThe post Dialled down: This artist is creating the tiniest watches in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel: Once In A Blue Moon – Reprise

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Jan 8, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel: Once In A Blue Moon – Reprise

Enamel dials are not as uncommon as they once were, and brands need to do a little bit more to stand out. Jaeger-LeCoultre has no problem with that as the Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel features eye-catching blue enamel over a hand-guilloche dial. Martin Green looks at what else makes this model stand out.

Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph Tested On A Cold And Stormy Coastline – Reprise

Tutima Jan 8, 2022

Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph Tested On A Cold And Stormy Coastline – Reprise

Martin Green enjoys hiking to the Dutch beach in the winter. So when he borrowed a Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph for a test he decided to put it through its paces at the coastline. The stormy conditions were challenging, but the M2 Coastline Chronograph proved its worth.

Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021

Hublot ContinuedThe post Zach’s Dec 30, 2021

Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021

This past year has created a lot of firsts for me, both in life and in this industry. These included my first time visiting Geneva and Dubai. My first manufacture visit, spending time with the wonderful team at Rolex/Tudor. My first red-carpet event in Hollywood and, most recently, my first time skiing courtesy of Hublot … ContinuedThe post Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Dec 19, 2021

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph

Born in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is known for being the original luxury stainless-steel sports watch. The line has since grown and evolved, with multiple collections making up the Royal Oak name. The Offshore was developed to speak to the modern consumer, who at the time of its launch was skewing towards larger … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Moinet Astronef: It’s Space, Jim, But Not As We Know It

Louis Moinet Dec 18, 2021

Louis Moinet Astronef: It’s Space, Jim, But Not As We Know It

With twin orbiting tourbillons and a highly mechanical display, the Louis Moinet Astronef builds on stylistic spacecraft origins and creates something entirely fascinating. Joshua Munchow heads into space to take a closer look.

Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]

Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711/1A Dec 18, 2021

Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]

An online-only watch auctioneer, Loupe This is less than a year old but has notched up several high-profile results, including an F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium for US$352,000 as well as a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive green dial for US$369,000 with all proceeds going to charity. And it so happens that one of our very own SJX editions is going under the hammer on Loupe This. Our first collaborative edition, the Habring2 Erwin “Star” was a limited edition of 50, and one of the 50 is now being offered on Loupe This – with a modest estimate and no reserve. [Update December 24, 2021: The Erwin “Star” sold for US$15,400 including fees on Loupe This.] For a quick recap: we launched the Erwin “Star” in August 2021 as the first of our 10th anniversary editions. We are proud of the Erwin “Star”. It’s unusual, high quality, and affordable, which probably explains why it sold out almost instantly. Though it’s a simple, time-only watch, it was made a little bit more special and a little bit different – the standard Erwin already features a jumping seconds, while the dial on our edition is unique to it. Inspired by “star” dial wristwatches of the 1950s, the dial was tweaked to look more modern and distinct. That was done by changing the proportions and using a vivid blue for the dial that varies with the light. Notably, this is the first Habring2 wristwatch with applied markers. Each of the star-shaped hour markers are stamped, cut with...

History Of Ferrari Watches: Hublot, A High-Speed Partnership

Girard-Perregaux Dec 16, 2021

History Of Ferrari Watches: Hublot, A High-Speed Partnership

Ferrari had already teamed up with quite a few different watch brands to feature the Prancing Horse logo on the wrist: Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, and Panerai are forces to be reckoned with, yet it was Hublot who enjoyed the greatest success in partnering with the famed car brand from Maranello. And Martin Green thinks that this might be the most successful car/watch partnership that the industry has seen so far. What do you think?