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Fratello
Another year has gone by, so it’s time for this yearly ritual of looking back at the past 12 months and mentioning the noteworthy occasions and events. It always takes me a few days to collect and curate my thoughts on the year here at Fratello and in the watch industry. The number of watch […] Visit A Year In Review - 2025 Saw A Slow Market But Surprisingly Good Watches to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Plenty of dive watches made a splash in 2025, but here's what we thought were the best - and we've put our money where our mouths are!The post Going swimmingly: our favourite dive watches of 2025 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 is one of the most unconventional perpetual calendars on the market, combining the brand’s military-inspired emphasis on legibility and robustness with a high-spec, crown-operated perpetual calendar movement designed for daily wear. Housed in a hard-wearing 44 mm Platinumtech case and powered by the P.4100 calibre, the PAM01575 challenges expectations for what a Panerai can be, applying the brand’s utilitarian DNA to one of watchmaking’s most respected complications. A user-friendly perpetual calendar Panerai is a brand rooted in its identity as a supplier of watches and dive instruments to the Italian navy. The brand’s utilitarian aesthetic, with bold dial markings and a distinctive crown guard, earned it a cult following in the early 2000s, and while some of the enthusiasm of that era has waned, the designs remain as recognisable as ever. Military watches are usually designed to be legible and robust, user-friendly traits that make them appealing to civilians. User-friendliness is something of a complication in its own right, and in some ways is one of the final frontiers of movement design. This includes both legibility, and the priority of information on the dial, and functionality, ensuring that the movement is easy to operate and resilient against mishandling. These issues are especially present when it comes to perpetual calendars, which must present a lot of information; George Daniels famousl...
Fratello
We have a fondness for Certina here at Fratello. Now owned by the Swatch Group, the brand offers good bang for your buck with its solid modern lineup of tool and dress watches. But Certina is also one of those brands that is such a treasure trove for vintage-watch hunting, and one of its many […] Visit Why The Certina Argonaut Is A Vintage Gem to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Affordable is subjective, of course, but here's a list of watches from 2025 that are both budget-friendly and extremely impressive.The post Bang for your buck: the best affordable watches of 2025 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
It’s the end of the year, which means it’s the one time on the calendar when you the reader will be able to stand a little naval gazing about the state of watch media. Look, it’s my job to reflect on this stuff constantly, but I also know that in practical terms, it’s not really something most watch enthusiasts necessarily want to hear about. When it comes to our readership one thing is overwhelmingly true: it really is about the watches, and the data bears that out. But it’s also impossible to ignore the titanic shift in how all of this works. Artificial intelligence has fundamentally changed how enthusiasts and collectors interact with watch “stuff” on the internet and social media. Even if you’re not actively using ChatGPT or other services to get your watch related questions answered, it’s happening in the background constantly in ways you may or may not realize. Your search results no longer bring you to websites like ours, but spit out summaries answering your queries that draw from our articles and those of our peers. And the reels and posts (but mostly reels – who’s making static posts these days besides me?) that you see on Instagram are fed to you by an AI fueled algorithm. Is it showing you what you actually want to see? Hard to say. To that point, a brief aside: have you seen the new feature in Instagram that tells you what your algorithm is feeding you? It’s fascinating(?) but also probably a little useless. Mine says I’m interest...
Teddy Baldassarre
The versatile sports watch is probably the most difficult category to do one of these year-end roundups for simply due to how many releases can qualify. The editorial team here at Teddy decided to choose our favorites that push the category forward while retaining what we all love best from some of the best sports watch collections out there. It was an excellent year for iterating some of the most well-loved collections from Oris, Tudor, Seiko, and others. So, let’s not waste any more time and get into our favorite sports watches of 2025. [toc-section heading="Seiko Samurai"] Seiko updated their Samurai in 2025 by delivering on one of the most persistent pleas by enthusiasts and housing it in a smaller case. The previous iteration of Seiko’s more obscure (yet no less respected) dive watches came in a big 44mm wide case that has been shrunk down to a manageable 41.6mm wide and 12.6mm thick with a 49mm lug-to-lug height. Naturally water resistance is still a solid 200m. The new Seiko Samurai is one of my personal favorites of 2025 though I know a few people still have gripes with the choice of an aluminum bezel rather than ceramic. But past that, the sleek angular aesthetic and nice tapered three-link bracelet (which has a much more manageable 20mm lug width down from 22mm) make for a fantastic sports watch priced under $600. - Bilal Khan [toc-section heading="Oris ProPilot Date"] This year, Oris rounded things out with one of its most compelling releases in recent mem...
Teddy Baldassarre
For a category often seen as a safe harbor for demure and conservative design, the dress watch regularly delivers some of the year’s most memorable releases and 2025 was no different. In fact, we had to do things a little different here by not having any honorable mentions altogether just because all of these pieces really shone. And one of my favorite decisions from our editorial team came together for this story when we decided to award two watches for their awe-inspiring executions of a gold Milanese bracelet. So, without further ado, here are our favorite dress watches of 2025: [toc-section heading="Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage"] Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Seconde/Seconde edition is the fruits of a collaboration between the independent Swiss watchmaker and designer Romaric Andre, known for his playful customization of watch dials. This latest iteration of the brand’s oval-cased dress watch - its name drawn from the world of classical music, a passion of the brand’s eponymous founder - is described as a “horological Simon Says:” its dial is divided into two different shades of anthracite gray, with Dauphine hands in the center, each inscribed with fashion-forward “dress codes” on how to wear the watch. The right sector, with polished indexes, has vertically oriented guidelines on where the wearer’s shirt cuff should land in three different scenarios (business casual, formal, and semi-formal, plus the “sweet spot” halfway divider), while t...
Hodinkee
Following a huge year for new watches, here are the Editorial team's picks for their favorite watches of 2025.
SJX Watches
It was a mixed year for affordable watches, led by segment stalwart Tudor. While appealing offerings from brands like Grand Seiko moved up beyond the US$10,000 mark, the gap was filled by a slate of interesting releases from so-called micro-brands. Here is a selection of affordable releases under US$10,000 that stood out this year. Tudor Ranger 36 - SJX I’m a fan of Tudor – I own several – because its watches are well made and priced even better. But the brand is increasingly appealing because of its gradual evolution towards enthusiast-friendly designs. The Ranger 36 illustrates that. The original Ranger was a little bit too large for this vintage-inspired design. Tudor doubtlessly received feedback to that effect. It took the brand a while, but now the 36 mm version is pretty much spot-on. The compact size fits the design well and the watch also feels good on the wrist. And because the case and bracelet are both entirely brushed, the Ranger 36 also has a low-key look that makes it a practical watch in almost any situation. The “dune white” dial is also a nice touch; it’s a nod to the “albino” dials found on some vintage sports watches (from Rolex rather than Tudor, but that’s a distinction without a difference for most of the brands’ histories). And importantly, the Ranger 36 is the most affordable Tudor with an in-house movement. It’s a solid entry into Tudor’s world of sports watches with high-spec movements. As an aside, Tudor clearly excels ...
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
An affordable stone dial watch that prioritizes design, wearability, and restraint over luxury hype-without a five-figure price tag.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Seiko 6309-7049 Got some great stuff for you this week, starting off with this classic and iconic vintage Seiko 6309-7049. Small rant here, the seller calls it a “turtle”, and I know lots of others do too, but damn I hate that nickname. Anyway, horrible nickname notwithstanding, the 6309 is a brilliant diver that really shouldn’t need any introduction. This example is really nice, and looks all original with a touch of honest wear. The steel case looks unpolished with the original brushed and polished finishes and sharp edges. The black dial looks great with nicely aged lume. The bezel insert is original with some light wear and a little fading that gives it a touch of that lovely ghost bezel look. Movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Great original example of a highly desirable vintage Seiko diver. View auction here Vintage 1950s Girard-Perregaux Next up is a sweet vintage Girard-Perregaux sport/dress watch. The 31mm steel case is excellent, unpolished with crisp edges and nice polished finish. It features fancy horned style lugs that really pop. The original cream dial is a beauty, with a quite pleasant, even patina to it. It has applied steel markers and ...
SJX Watches
The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte (MdS4) is a limited-edition collaboration between the team at Monochrome Watches and Austrian independent Habring², built around the brand’s signature jumping seconds complication. Powered by the hand-wound A11S calibre, the watch reflects the marque’s focus on technically robust, thoughtfully refined movements and offers a straightforward value proposition. Limited to 33 individually numbered pieces and sold exclusively through a short souscription-style sales window, the MdS4 highlights both Habring²’s technical merit and Monochrome’s aesthetic sensibilities. Initial thoughts Richard and Maria Habring are outliers in the field of independent watchmaking. Among the sole guardians of the Austrian watchmaking tradition, the husband and wife team produce a range of deceptively technical (yet honestly priced) watches. This rare combination makes the brand’s watches appealing to many insiders like the team behind the Dutch website Monochrome Watches, that have just announced their latest 1930s-inspired collaboration. While the watch and its movement are the work of Habring², the team at Monochrome turned to designer and Time+Tide contributor Pietro Pilla for the Art Deco-inspired dial design. The discreet black dial features applied Roman numerals that alternate with delicate teardrop-shaped indexes, a choice that helps prevent the dial from looking too crowded. The printed railroad scale that rings the dial i...
SJX Watches
AP House Singapore is staging its first exhibition, making full use of the expansive space inside Singapore’s iconic colonial-era Raffles Hotel. 150 Years of Refined Elegance is a showcase of miniaturisation, covering Audemars Piguet’s smallest and thinnest movements, including an 18 mm-wide minute repeating calibre from the late 19th century. Taking place in the basement of the “house”, the exhibition starts with watches from the 1920s and ends in the current day that includes the Royal Oak Mini and the recently launched 38 mm perpetual calendar models. The Royal Oak Mini in “Frosted” gold Although not described as such, the exhibition naturally focuses a great deal on ladies’ watches, one of the recent themes of AP’s marketing. Unsurprisingly, one of the prominent figures in the exhibition is Jacqueline Dimier, chief designer at AP from 1975 to 1999 who conceived of the 29 mm Royal Oak for ladies shortly after the launch of the original “Jumbo” ref. 5402ST in 1972. Exhibition details The exhibition is open daily from 11 am to 8 pm and takes place at AP House Singapore located in the Raffles Hotel Singapore. Entry is free but registration is required; visits can be scheduled at Audemarspiguet.com.
Deployant
Ending 2025 with a BANG! Here's Stanley getting the ball rolling for Deployant's annual Christmas Wishlist with his 3 ideal watch as Christmas Presents!
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Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Spielberg’s Mysterious Sci-Fi Film View this post on Instagram A post shared by Amblin Entertainment (@amblin) Steven Spielberg has a new, still untitled, original UFO movie coming out next year, and we aren’t talking about it nearly enough. A new sci-fi film from the director of ET, Close Encounters, AI, Minority Report, etc should be a very big deal, and it still might be once people start wrestling with the idea of Spielberg returning to this genre. Very little is known about the movie – the plot has been kept completely under wraps. But it stars Emily Blunt, filmed in New Jersey and the Hudson Valley, was written by David Koepp (a frequent Spielberg collaborator), and this week, the first bit of marketing started to hit. In a handful of cities, large billboards with the June 12 release date, an evocative image, and the words “all will be disclosed” began to appear. We love a mysterious campaign, and the idea that a new, and apparently quite major, Spielberg movie is 6 months away and we know nothing about it is tantalizing. The Year’s Best in GPS Watches The watch world is full of little niches, and rabbit holes within rabbit holes. Smart watche...
Teddy Baldassarre
It's that time of year for our annual tradition of recapping the watches that were most worn by our friends across the watch industry. Follow along as we hear from 35 watch content creators about their most worn watches for 2025.
Monochrome
Armin Strom’s celebrated Gravity Equal Force series expands with an elegant twist, the Ultimate Sapphire Salmon. Continuing the brand’s exploration of colour and transparency, this latest edition pairs technical mastery with artisanal finesse, featuring a hand-guilloché salmon mainplate and the brand’s innovative constant-force calibre, bringing new vibrancy to one of modern horology’s most inventive movements. […]
SJX Watches
Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...
SJX Watches
De Bethune plans to bring hairspring production in house, aiming to become one of the very few firms able to process alloy wire into a finished balance hairspring. This requires De Bethune’s new hairspring workshop to master wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly. The rationale? “Externally produced hairsprings meet standards based on averages that do not enable fine adjustment of the dimensions to suit a particular balance wheel or its specific positioning in a calibre,” according to De Bethune. De Bethune’s “flat end curve” mated to a hairspring sourced from a supplier. Initial thoughts As De Bethune explains it, making its own hairsprings will allow the brand to tailor its hairspring to a specific balance or movement. Since its founding in 2002, De Bethune has presented itself as being on the cutting edge of chronometry, debuting a new balance design every year from 2004 to 2010. The brand was also quick to embrace silicon, and even briefly attempted a kilohertz magnetic oscillator system, Résonique. A new year, a new balance. Sometimes two new balances. Given De Bethune’s focus on chronometry, making its own hairsprings seems like a natural next step. However, there is a reason so few brands make their own hairsprings: the process is a difficult and demanding one that benefits greatly from economies of scale. For example, H. Moser & Cie. makes less than 4,000 watches per year, however, its sister company Precision Engineering claims...
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Teddy Baldassarre
Even with the year coming to an end, we are still seeing a slow trickle of new watch releases ranging from a new MoonSwatch to a Breguet showstopper celebrating the maison's 250th anniversary. Here are the notable new watch releases from this past week as well as the new updates to the Tudor Ranger and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (hey, we can be a little flexible with the "week" rule). As brands squeeze in final announcements before the calendar flips, it's a reminder that the watch world never really rests. And if you want to see our favorite watches of the year, make sure to check out the Teddy Top 40 Watches of 2025 which just got a big update. [toc-section heading="TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Carrera"] TAG Heuer continues its collaborative relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara and his fashion brand, fragment design, with the release of a new glassbox Carrera this week. The watch takes design cues from fragment’s signature style, meaning monochromatic in nature, with minimal details to place emphasis on the broad strokes for contrast. The black-on-black dial is framed by a white internal bezel structure, which is domed under the glassbox crystal. The date aperture is placed at the 12 o’clock position, with the first and 11th of the month using the fragment lightning-bolt logo in lieu of the numeral. This is fitted within the excellent 39mm steel Carrera case, and utilizes TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement, visible through an exhibition caseback. Thi...
Teddy Baldassarre
The year has come and gone and it's time for us to recap our favorite watches of 2025. Here we list over 25 of our favorites across a variety of categories. Watches mentioned include: echo/neutra, Beaubleu, Breitling, Rolex, Zenith, Cartier, J.N. Shapiro, Krayon, and more!
Worn & Wound
The last, but certainly not least, panel of Windup Watch Fair 2025 features Andi Felsl and David Sharp, CEO and COO of Horage. The two discuss the remarkable story of how Horage’s breakthrough in the world of mechanical regulation. It’s called MicroReg, and Horage believes it is a game-changer. Hear (or read) all about it, including an audience Q&A;, below. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan Hello everyone, welcome to the final panel of Wind-Up Watch Fair New York City 2025. This panel is sponsored by Horage, and I’m pleased to be joined by Andi Felsl, CEO of Horage, and David Sharp, COO of Horage. It’s a pleasure to have you both here. We’re going to be talking about Micro-Reg, a fascinating new technology developed by Horage-potentially game-changing in the watchmaking space. Andi, can you start by explaining what Micro-Reg is in layman’s terms, and how the idea came about? Andi Felsl Thank you for having us-it’s a pleasure to be the last panel of the fair. The idea dates back about ten years, when we were preparing for volume manufacturing of our first movement, the K1. At the end of assembly, I realized regulation was going to be a cost issue. Regulation is a costly exercise because it requires precision, and we don’t have the production volume of Rolex or Omega. We needed a different way. I wondered: could we regulate the watch from the outside, while it’s being worn? Regulation has been a big is...
Worn & Wound
Laurence Bodenmann has served as the Heritage Director of Zenith for a decade. She’s also a member of the scientific committee for The Watch Library, a non-profit public interest foundation established in 2021 to document, preserve, and share watchmaking archives. While Bodenmann has become a staple of the industry, her role in watches was mere happenstance or rather came out of necessity. It spurred from a summer job at the International Museum of Horology in La Chaux-de-Fonds while trying to earn some extra money during her pursuit of a degree in anthropology. “I was always interested in logic – when I was young, I first thought I wanted to be a math teacher,” she recalls. “But as I got older, I realized what interested me most was how different people approached reasoning,” Bodenmann continues, “and how factors like cultural context and economical or sociological diversity informed their thought process. I found it fascinating to observe how one person would approach an object or problem in one way and another person would do it completely differently.” While Bodenmann didn’t initially expect to find herself in the world of horology, we can see why it’s been such a natural fit. The entire watch industry revolves around her astute observations as a teenager. Every person within a manufacturer – from the watchmaker sitting at a bench to the executives running the brand – is faced with the same object – a timepiece – and many of the same probl...
Fratello
Kuoe (pronounced like “quo”) is not a brand that we have featured in a dedicated article before here on Fratello. However, it has been on our radar for some time. My Fratello colleague Gerard has been interested in the Japanese brand for some time and featured its Old Smith 90-002 in a list of his […] Visit Hands-On With The Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs to read the full article.
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