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Fratello
The Seamaster Ploprof is partially famous for being on the wrist of FIAT boss Gianni Agnelli. Many think Agnelli wore his Ploprof over his cuff because he thought it was stylish, but it was actually because of his allergic reactions to metal on his skin. Despite him doing this out of necessity, many have praised […] Visit Ploprof Vs. Ploprof - A Double Hands-On With The 1200M Diver to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Clockmakers rarely get the credit they deserve, and Elizabeth Doerr believes that Rick Hale is deserving of at least a few minutes of your attention because this young autodidact clockmaker is doing something unique: handmaking self-designed clocks out of wood according to some of John Harrison’s principles.
Monochrome
Do you remember what you were doing at the age of 17? I bet it wasn’t something in the line of making watches, was it? I know I wasn’t at least, and it must be said that accomplishing your first commercially available watch at such a young age is quite remarkable! Even more so when […]
SJX Watches
Half a century ago, Casio unveiled the Casiotron QW02, the brand’s very first digital watch. Showing the time, month, date, and day of the week – with the calendar being “perpetual” – the Casiotron was a landmark and the ancestor of the G-Shock, one of the bestselling watches of all time. Now it has been revived Casiotron “50th Anniversary”, a limited edition that preserves the looks of the dinky original but enhanced with modern build quality and technology, including a solar-powered movement with smartphone connectivity. It is essentially a cutting-edge electronic watch in vintage dress. Initial thoughts As a Casio fan, I recognise the importance of the Casiotron, even though it is an inexpensive watch. It established the benchmark for digital electronic watches with its clean display and multi-functionality. Casio got it right by resurrecting this iconic retro design with contemporary upgrades, particularly since the 1970s styling harmonises with current preferences for integrated bracelets. The remake wisely retains the original design, right down to the fluted inner flange and applied logo. But the electronics are entirely 21st century, with the movement featuring the same solar-power module found in many modern-day Casio and G-Shock models. The Casiotron remake costs US$500, affordable in itself but pricier than Casio’s own digital offerings and also a fifth more expensive than the Tissot PRX Digital. However, the premium is justified simply because...
Worn & Wound
One of the real pleasures of being involved in this hobby is being surprised when a brand you thought you had a good understanding of completely subverts expectations. I like it when watch brands genuinely seek to try something different and new (even if it doesn’t work). It’s so easy, especially once you’ve tasted success, to keep doing the same thing over and over, repeating a successful formula. But a brand that takes risks is inherently more interesting, and I always find myself drawn to those outlier watches – it’s almost as if they have something to prove, and I find that endearing. Baltic’s latest, the Prismic, falls into that category for me. And that’s not to say that Baltic hasn’t surprised us before by taking a left turn unexpectedly. I don’t think anyone expected them to unveil a perpetual calendar for Only Watch, for example. But I don’t think even the most forward thinking watch enthusiasts had something like the Prismic on their bingo card. Baltic, a brand known primarily for their interpretations of a classic sports watch aesthetic, has gone and made something that nods more to jewelry than the divers and racing chronographs they’ve made to this point. According to Baltic, the Prismic is a watch inspired by geometric shapes and how light refracts through a prism. The end result is a dress watch with quite a bit more bling than we’re accustomed to seeing from Baltic. This is a watch that’s designed with an aesthetics rather th...
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Worn & Wound
You’ve got two options. First, you can craft or find a device that can bend space and time so that you can travel back to an alternate universe in which the MIL-W-46374F Type 6 SANDY 660 was widely issued and battle-worn, and readily available. Second, you could just pay closer attention to what Tornek Rayville (under its current MKII Watch umbrella) is doing and snag a version that’s better than the slightly obscure original. Maybe I’ve been reading too much science fiction lately, but as fun as the first option sounds, the second option is probably the right move. Today, we’re looking at Tornek-Rayville’s take on a lesser-known mil-spec watch with a short-lived history of service but plenty of potential. The spec called out for a navigator-style watch with a rotating bezel, quartz movement with antimagnetic properties, water resistance, and a focus on legibility. The TR Type 7B “Blakjak” is a modern take on the post Gulf War-era watch that improves upon the spec while adding some premium touches that us watch collectors will appreciate. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at the latest and greatest from Tornek Rayville. Case The first thing that struck me when unboxing the watch was the sheer size and weight of it. The 7B ships on a quick-release stainless steel bracelet and includes a nylon and rubber strap. I took it off the bracelet and popped it onto a nylon strap of my own for the initial evaluation. My wrist is pretty average, measuring in at 6.75...
Worn & Wound
Make no mistake, I’m grateful to be able to write about watches. Doing so opens a lot of doors and brings about some great opportunities. Many fantastic new watches are delivered to my door, and often weeks will pass without needing to pick something to wear from my own watch box. However, there are times when a new watch is in such demand, or produced in such limited numbers, that a loan is not easy to come by. The BR-X5 Green Lum is one such watch. Spending some time with it would mean leaving the warmth and comfort of my own home and venturing up to London’s Bell & Ross boutique. It’s a ‘hardship’ I’m willing to take, and an opportunity I’m still thankful for. So, accompanied by ‘wrist model’ and Bell & Ross fan Jeremy, I trekked up to the Big Smoke to go hands-on with this bright and bold addition to the BR-X5 line, and also had some surprise wrist time with the brand new BR 03 Cyber Ceramic. First up is the Green Lum ($13,300). When the BR-X5 line was launched in late 2022, it represented a serious advancement in the Bell & Ross brand identity. For as long as I can remember, the square watch has been Bell & Ross’s calling card. Think square: think Bell & Ross. The successful BR05 model family saw the brand pushing into the integrated-bracelet sports watch arena, rounding off a few square edges while still maintaining a familiar dial layout. Outside of those product lines Bell & Ross has also regularly added to and updated its ‘Concept’ range, w...
SJX Watches
Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...
SJX Watches
The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner. Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings. At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, t...
Fratello
Did anyone order pizza? Well, actually, I know many of you did. When Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc and Time+Tide founder Andrew McUtchen seemed to launch a pizza watch last April, watch enthusiasts went wild. Unfortunately, it was a very well-played April Fools’ joke, and everybody could soon get back to what they were doing. […] Visit Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Independent watchmaking, a category defined by low-production, artisanal-like companies where the soul of the creator can be deeply felt in the watches, is one of MONOCHROME’s most important (and favourite) topics. This segment of the industry has always been a highlight for us, and we are committed to promoting the work of these small companies… […]
Monochrome
In 2001, Mr Pascal Raffy bought the Bovet watch brand, and ever since, he has been carefully building the brand with a strong focus on Haute Horlogerie and doing as much as possible “in-house”. The vertical integration at Bovet 1822, which is the brand’s full name, is pretty impressive, and the number of in-house-made parts […]
Monochrome
While the modern side of Roger Dubuis is unmistakably all about bold high horology (what the brand names Hyper Horology), there’s one collection that might even make a greater impact with watches infused with Medieval mythology and, in particular, by the legendary knights of the fellowship of King Arthur. Ever since the first Knights of […]
Time+Tide
Zach learns about the toughest test G-Shock has ever faced from its very creator.The post The “Father of G-Shock” Kikuo Ibe reveals G-Shock testing secrets, including an Australian bus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
My personal highlight of Dubai Watch Week was a presentation like none I've ever seen before.
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![[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/Longines_Hydroconquest_15.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Watches that break from conventional wisdom tend to provide the most memorable experiences on the wrist. We search out such examples around here and embrace new watches that aren’t afraid to cut against the grain in some way, shape, or form. Doing so presents a risk for brands, particularly large, well established brands. A by-the-numbers design meant to appeal to the largest possible swath of the population must, by definition, be as inoffensive as possible. Deviation from the template risks putting out a percentage of would-be buyers, but it also creates grounds for differentiation, a necessity in today’s crowded landscape of watch brands young and old. Achieving balance here means a design that’s unique and exciting, while being accessible enough to sell to enough people to make it work financially. Generally, the larger the brand the safer they play with this equation. But that’s not always the case, as many large brands still produce polarizing yet recognizable watches that have a focused appeal to a group of die hard fans. I’ll let you conjure up your own examples of watches that fall into this category. One such testament is the Longines HydroConquest, a watch with a big personality that’s been emblematic of the era it was originally designed in, the mid ‘00s. Longines was ahead of the game when it introduced the HydroConquest in 2007, presenting a fully modern, forward looking take on a serious dive watch at Baselworld, and even offered in both 39 a...
SJX Watches
Having recently redesigned its flagship perpetual calendar and minute repeater, Breguet now turns to its compact tourbillon for ladies. Moving away from Breguet’s traditional, formal style, the Classique Tourbillon 3358 is available in two variants, including the ref. 3358BB with a blue mother-of-pearl dial with diamond stars. Initial thoughts By doing away with the usual silvered guilloche dial, the new pair of tourbillons bring a new look to a familiar watch. Although the two watches are quite different from past Breguet tourbillons, they are still recognisable as Breguet thanks to elements like the pomme hands and fluted case band. The white gold ref. 3358BB is definitely the more striking of the two. The blue mother of pearl dial set with diamond stars is usually whimsical for Breguet, but nonetheless works well with the more traditional design elements. The ref. 3358 with a blue mother-of-pearl dial The Classique Tourbillon 3358 is a woman’s watch, but the design elements employed here could be transplanted into a men’s tourbillon wristwatch quite successfully, though it is not like Breguet to do something like that. Though pricier than past ladies’ tourbillons, the ref. 3358 is arguably more interesting and attractive, particularly for someone who wants something much less formal and traditional. The ref. 3358 with a diamond-set dial Stars and diamonds Already in the catalogue for several years, the ref. 3358 in its earlier incarnations looked more like ...
Worn & Wound
There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over a long weekend. Handwinding watches require a bit more work, but that few minutes of winding in the morning before your day begins is a great opportunity to interact with your favorite watch. Romanticism aside, there are some key physical benefits as well. Most importantly being that since there’s no automatic winding rotor section needed for the movement, handwinding movements tend to be thinner and able to be housed in smaller cases that may wear better on your wrist. One iconic brand that’s still actively embracing handwinding watches is Hamilton. With the huge success of their Khaki Field Mechanical, it’s clear that enthusiasts still want handwinding watches, especially when they’re as solidly built, packed with features, and as functional as the Hamiltons below. Let’s take a look at three handwinding Hamiltons in the Windup Watch Shop and what makes them special. There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over ...
Worn & Wound
Here at Worn & Wound, we talk a lot about a concept we refer to as “curated approachability.” This is the concept that we can celebrate our enthusiasm for products, especially watches, in a way that is both elevated, yet accessible. It’s a fine line to walk and few brands can do that better than Oris. So we were thrilled when the Oris team approached us about doing a meetup-style event with them somewhere a bit off the beaten path. We knew the Washington DC area was a spot where we not only had a strong crop of Worn & Wound readers, but it was a place where we were bound to have a great time. On Sunday, September 10th-at a stellar indoor/outdoor venue called Hook Hall-we squeezed the always-impressive Oris Airstream in and joined the Oris team along with dozens upon dozens of watch enthusiasts. Together we broke bread… er sliders, made new friends, and examined the full range of Oris’ new offerings. Some highlights on display from the Oris collection included the all-new 40mm Limited Edition Big Crown Pilot celebrating the life and humanitarian work of baseball hall-of-famer Hank Aaron. Guests were also treated to the striking Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023, which sports a striking purple dial that you can’t take your eyes off. To top it off, guests could try on the full array of their ever-popular “Cotton Candy” Divers Sixty-Fives in both steel and bronze. Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition Oris Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023 Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton ...
SJX Watches
Since its debut in 2021, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has been the brand’s flagship pure-play perpetual calendar that combines the trademark Lange 1 design with a sophisticated movement, while doing away with the tourbillon of its bigger brother. The model now gets a new of platinum with a black dial, a combination nicknamed “Darth”, and remains powered by the L021.3. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 perpetual calendar has consistently impressed with its thoughtful design. The asymmetrical yet streamlined dial effortlessly communicates essential information. And because doesn’t have the tourbillon of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, it is relatively affordable, at least as such things go. As for the new version, it does look good. Lange watches tend to look good with white metal cases and black dials, think Datograph or Zeitwerk, and this is no exception. This is especially considering the model was available only with light coloured dials like salmon or grey. The rest of the watch remains unchanged, so it has all the pros (and cons) of the earlier iterations. While the movement is impressively executed, it is a large watch, particularly since it only has the calendar complication. At almost 42 mm wide and just over 12 mm high, it has dimensions comparable to a sports chronograph. That said, most complicated Lange watches feel over-engineered, so this is typical Lange in many ways. “Darth” The new model retains the dial layout that i...
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Teddy Baldassarre
As long as watches have been worn on the wrist (click here if you’re curious about how long that’s actually been), watchmakers have needed to figure out how to keep their straps, and eventually bracelets, securely fastened. Nowadays, with a plethora of strap and bracelet options available to watch wearers, there are also several styles of these closures, many of which have become brand signatures in their own right. From tang buckles to butterflies to trifolds, we cover the gamut here, listing pros and cons for each. Pin/Tang/Ardillon Buckle The simplest type of closure, and one used only on straps, is a pin buckle, aka a tang or ardillon buckle (“ardillon” is a French word that translates to “tongue”). If you’ve ever worn a belt, you’re familiar with the design, though perhaps not the terminology. One end of the strap - which can be either a two-piece, like most leather and rubber straps, or a one-piece, like a cloth or nylon NATO strap - has a series of perforations called adjustment holes along part of its length. The other end terminates in a simple device with a spring bar attached to a U-shaped bracket and a central piece called a mandel (the “pin” or “tongue”). The bracket slides over the other end of the strap while the mandel slips through one of the adjustment holes, and into a notch on the bracket, to fit the strap to the wearer’s wrist and secure it against coming loose. Pros: It’s easy to use and generally comfortable, as there...
Worn & Wound
For fans of the Zenith Defy, it’s practically impossible not to compare the new Skyline models to the now retired Classic references. As a self described Defy fan, I’ve found myself doing this on a routine basis whenever I get a chance to handle a newer reference. I’ve long held that the Defy, over the years, is pound for pound the very best sports watch line out there. The watches in this collection are adventurous in their design, inherently robust, and naturally distinctive in a sea of sports watches that kind of all look alike. From the very beginning, the Defy has been a trailblazer, something truly unique, but frequently overlooked in favor of watches that it clearly influenced along the way. Zenith’s release strategy with the Defy almost begs for comparison between generations. The Defy Classic, after being issued in titanium with both solid and skeletonized dials, was made in a trio of ceramic models (black, white, and blue) with skeletonized dials. Similarly, the Skyline was introduced in steel first, was eventually given a skeletonized dial, and finally at this year’s Watches & Wonders we got a ceramic version on a full ceramic bracelet, with both the star motif dial seen here, and a skeletonized version similar to the one reviewed earlier this year by Blake right here. No colored ceramic Defy Skylines have been released yet, but it’s easy to see the similarities between Defy generations. There definitely appears to be a roadmap. And yet, after spen...
Hodinkee
2,297 pieces in honor of 2,297 runs batted in.
Worn & Wound
I enjoy rooting for the underdog. This has, perhaps, been an underlying theme at Worn & Wound. It’s just too easy to always always be in the stands for the big brands that everyone likes and are really at no risk of failing (though, tbh, we do that plenty too). So, when a young brand comes around that is doing something interesting but perhaps to no fanfare, I take notice. Such was the case with Arcus Watches from Calgary, Canada. In 2021 I stumbled across a post of theirs on Instagram, as these things tend to happen these days, and knew I had to dig in more. The watch, called the Tropos, was nice enough looking, but what caught my eye was that it was a monopusher chronograph with a sub $1k price tag. In order to achieve this, Arcus, for their first watch, modified Seagull ST1901 movements with in-house components. I’m still impressed by that. Check out the review here. The Tropos The Mesos They followed the Tropos with the Mesos, which took the modifications one step further. In addition to being an ST19-based monopusher, they re-jiggered the mechanism to just start, and reset, but with the ability to hold before release, like a vintage Omega Chronostop. The idea is that you start the chrono and when you finish the activity, you hit and hold the button again, recording your time. Then you release to zero it out. Novel if perhaps not very useful, but the fact that they made it in-house is what really impressed me. Even more so, they only charged $599 for it. Read the M...
Worn & Wound
Today, Farer has launched the latest additions to the Chrono-Sport lineup with their new Chronograph Sport Titanium collection. As the name suggests, these watches will be released in a titanium frame, versus the standard steel from previous models. Not only does this reduce weight by around 20%, but it also brings some of Farer’s most intriguing designs back to the forefront of conversation. Farer is a brand that knows what it’s doing and how to do it well. With an emphasis on updating classic designs with contemporary color combinations, Farer isn’t afraid to be bold without ever veering into the ostentatious. This can be seen with the two colorways for the Titanium collection: the Carnegie and the Bernina. Both inspired by the legendary motor races held in St. Moritz, each relies on a common design language that is somehow completely retro and totally modern all at once. The Carnegie Titanium leans more towards the alpine nature of St. Mortiz with its complementary blue and bronze accents. With a subtle sunburst dial and accents of silver, it’s a watch that could easily be found on any racer worth his salt in the heyday of motoracing. The ceramic bezel, three subdials, and Super-LumiNova hour markers all finish the appearance of the Carngie to put it miles above others in its class in terms of appearance. Contrasting the cool Carnegie is the more vibrant Bernina, which puts the pedal to the metal for the Farer line-up. With red and off-white accents, it’s a ...
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