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How the IWC Big Pilot became a true modern classic Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot became Jan 30, 2022

How the IWC Big Pilot became a true modern classic

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the IWC … ContinuedThe post How the IWC Big Pilot became a true modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What watches do the stars of HBO’s Euphoria wear in real life? Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2022

What watches do the stars of HBO’s Euphoria wear in real life?

Back in my high school days, I remember watching the UK show Skins and thinking how wild its portrayal of high school/college life was – partying, drink, drugs and sex to the max. MTV, unsuccessfully, tried to transport Skins over to the US with their own take on the storyline. With American television far more restricted … ContinuedThe post What watches do the stars of HBO’s Euphoria wear in real life? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the All-New 37 mm Royal Oak Ref. 15550 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 28, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the All-New 37 mm Royal Oak Ref. 15550

With 2022 being the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has already launched a slew of new models barely a month into the year. While the headline watches are no doubt the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm ref. 15550 is a more accessible watch, both in terms of price and availability. It too gets an upgrade for the 50th anniversary in the form of a new movement, the cal. 5900, along with a revamped case, dial, and bracelet. Initial thoughts As familiar as it might seem, the ref. 15550 received as complete a makeover as possible while still retaining the trademark design. Individually the changes are minor but together they create a watch that looks and feels better than the previous version of the mid-size Royal Oak. The tweaks can be spotted even at arm’s length, including the streamlined dial that has been cleaned up to reduce the text, giving it a look similar to that found on the latest-generation Royal Oak 41 mm ref. 15500. The newly minimalist dial works especially well with the mid-size case, with the empty space looking just right. In contrast, the dial style seems almost bland on its larger counterpart. Two lines of text have been eliminated: “AP” at 12 o’clock and “AUTOMATIC” at six The case and bracelet also get their own nips and tucks, though the alterations are far more subtle. Amongst the changes are slightly wider bevels along the edge of the case, making it seem to tap...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jan 27, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger”

With 2022 being the Year of the Tiger in the Chinese Zodiac, tiger-themed watches started to proliferate since late last year. One of the most striking tiger-themed watches is also one of the most discreet, revealing its roaring tiger only on the reverse. The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” is a sharp but simple on the front, while its reverse depicts a tiger leaping out of the clouds. Unusually, the decoration combines both enamel and engraving, making it more elaborate than the typical enamelled Reverso. Initial thoughts The quintessential enamelled Reverso is a miniature painting in polychrome enamel – a specialty of Jaeger-LeCoultre since the 1990s. The Reverso “Tiger” in contrast, is a stately black and gold. Even though the “Tiger” dials back on the colours, it is a striking and beautiful watch. The simplicity at a distance gives away to detail when you examine the roaring tiger on the back, which is executed in low relief. It leaps out of a black background that is actually fired enamel. At the same time, this combination of figurative engraving in addition to enamel is a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre, at least in recent years, making the “Tiger” a rather special watch. Naturally the elaborate decoration comes at a price – €90,000 before taxes to be exact. That’s about US$100,000 and about the same as past Reverso models with miniature enamel paintings. Delicate work The engraved tiger takes form after the back has been enamelled. So the process ...

Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Jan 27, 2022

Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick

Sometimes I wonder if I will ever watch a movie or any piece of film without my eyes searching the screen for a watch. On multiple occasions, I’ve stopped a movie mid-way just to find out what’s on an actor’s wrist. And today, it feels like I’ve hit a new low. Not even an action-movie … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022 Time+Tide
Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Jan 27, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022

Unless you’ve been marooned on a desert island for the past several years, you’re probably all too aware of the rainbow colourway boom in the horological world. And let’s face it, some of these timepieces are, shall we say, aesthetically more harmonious than others. For every rainbow Daytona out there, there are twice as many … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Jan 26, 2022

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204

Alongside the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204 for the 50th anniversary of its iconic octagonal watch. The skeleton “Jumbo” is naturally offered with a brand-new movement, the cal. 7124. Extra revealing and extra thin – even thinner than the cal. 7121 found in the standard “Jumbo” – the cal. 7124 boasts a striking, cohesive aesthetic thanks to having been designed from the ground up as an open-worked calibre. The steel variant with a low-key, almost monochromatic palette Initial thoughts Striking, original, and impressive, the “Jumbo” Openworked is clearly a cut above standard “Jumbo” ref. 16202. It is arguably a more comprehensive upgrade over the equivalent, earlier-generation model than the ref. 16202, given the nature of the new calibre. Everything attractive about a skeleton Royal Oak can be found in the “Jumbo” Openworked, namely the meticulous hand finish of an ultra-thin movement inside the elegantly flat and wide case. The visual details of the earlier-generation skeleton movement that were unappealing – namely the meandering bridges that seemed almost messy – have been eliminated. Instead, the cal. 7124 brings with it an architecture that’s contemporary and geometric with strong, flowing lines, while remaining intricate enough to capture the feel of an old-school skeletonised movement. Starting at US$90,400 in steel and rising ...

HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Jan 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121

Anniversaries are monumental moments in all aspects of life and they’re certainly no different in watchmaking. It has been no secret that this year marks the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, originally conceived by Gérald Genta and manufactured by Audemars Piguet in 1972, and that a successor of some form was on the horizon. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1 SJX Watches
Jan 26, 2022

Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1

Independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès is best known for the Soberly Onyx, which housed a highly-decorated movement that was originally a humble Cyma. His latest creation however, marks a significant step forward – a movement he developed and largely manufactures himself. A time-only watch with some fascinating details, the Régulateur à détente RP1 serves as a strong testament to Mr Pagès’ capabilities: it has a regulator display while the movement has a detent escapement of his own design. And of course, it is finished to the same high standard as his earlier work – or perhaps even better. Initial thoughts The RP1 is intriguing in many ways. It is well-executed both in terms of technical features and finish. The most obvious element that sets it apart is the detent escapement. Due to the technical quirks in implementation, the detent escapement is an uncommon regulation mechanism that contrasts with the Swiss lever escapement that is ubiquitous even at the highest end of watchmaking. It is clear that Mr Pagès designed the movement around the escapement, as the movement bridges expose enough to proudly showcase the mechanism. But the RP1 isn’t only about the movement, as its qualities appear all-encompassing, as demonstrated by the equally well-finished dial. Despite the simple appearance at a glance, the regulator dial is replete with fine finishing details. While the colour scheme may be too quirky for some, I wouldn’t be surprised if Mr Pages accedes to re...

Moonfall is the latest big-screen cameo for the Omega Speedmaster. Here are 5 more of the watch’s memorable roles at the movies Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Here are 5 Jan 26, 2022

Moonfall is the latest big-screen cameo for the Omega Speedmaster. Here are 5 more of the watch’s memorable roles at the movies

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is apparently not content with being one of the most iconic watches ever to be buckled onto a wrist. Sure, it was the first watch to make it onto the moon on July 20, 1969 after being the only chronograph that NASA deemed tough and accurate enough to meet their exacting … ContinuedThe post Moonfall is the latest big-screen cameo for the Omega Speedmaster. Here are 5 more of the watch’s memorable roles at the movies appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Actively Black x Teleport ‘Obama’ Watch: Hands On! Quill & Pad
Jan 25, 2022

Actively Black x Teleport ‘Obama’ Watch: Hands On!

On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.

VIDEO: TAG Heuer celebrates the Autavia’s 60th Anniversary with a dynamic trio Time+Tide
TAG Heuer celebrates Jan 25, 2022

VIDEO: TAG Heuer celebrates the Autavia’s 60th Anniversary with a dynamic trio

The Autavia is one of TAG Heuer’s most storied collection. Yes, it gets lost sometimes with all the noise made by the Monaco and Carrera. But with this latest release in celebration of the Autavia 60th anniversary, it’s going to be hard to lose sight of this line any longer. TAG Heuer has blessed us … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer celebrates the Autavia’s 60th Anniversary with a dynamic trio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Bulgari 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Bulgari 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Jan 24, 2022

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Bulgari 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: Bulgari 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Zenith 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Zenith 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Jan 24, 2022

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Zenith 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: Zenith 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH WATCH WEEK: TAG Heuer 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
TAG Heuer 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Jan 24, 2022

LVMH WATCH WEEK: TAG Heuer 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: TAG Heuer 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Hublot 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Hublot 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Jan 24, 2022

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Hublot 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: Hublot 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series Time+Tide
Jan 24, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series

The stars and navigation have always been linked. As a year progresses, certain constellations command the night sky, aiding those at sea with navigation. On a nightly basis, the position of the Big Dipper constellation can even help a navigator estimate the time of night. It’s this relationship, along with a Greek myth, that inspired … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Having Jan 23, 2022

Up Close: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor

Having enjoyed modest success with its affordable(ish) Tonda GT sports watch launched two years ago, Parmigiani tweaked the concept and debuted a more refined – and pricier – sports watch last year, the Tonda PF. The line up includes the base-model Micro-Rotor in steel reviewed here, along with a chronograph and annual calendar. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in steel Taking generous inspiration from the brand’s more classical timepieces, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelet. While the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor doesn’t deviate much from the familiar formula for a luxury-sports watch, it does excel in a few ways, helping it stand out from the competition, most notably with its minimalist dial and ultra-thin automatic movement that are both executed to a high level. And its bigger brother, the Tonda PF Chronograph in pink gold Initial thoughts The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is surprisingly thin, making it seem slightly wider than its 40 mm diameter. But it sits flat and elegant, with the lines of the case flowing into the bracelet, giving it a sleek look on the wrist. Despite its delicate looks, the Micro-Rotor (along with the rest of the Tonda PF range) is water resistant to a respectable 100 m. Unlike many of Parmigiani’s recent models (including its more affordable sports watch, the Tonda GT), the Tonda PF is minimalist in terms of styling. And the Micro-Rotor, being the simplest watch in the collection, is the most pared back. Its di...

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 23, 2022

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) - Reprise

There was a time when the walls of many children's rooms were decorated with images of iconic supercars cars like the Ferrari Testarossa, Porsche 959, Lamborghini Countach, and McLaren F1. Today those same walls in the rooms of a new generation of kids are decorated by a completely different type of car: the super SUV. Martin Green explains why in this satirical editorial.

New: Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games on Quick Takes Deployant
Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games Jan 22, 2022

New: Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games on Quick Takes

The new Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games is a limited edition of 2022 pieces and retails at S$2860. It is a colorful variant to an otherwise common dive watch design, and benefits from a rather robust 3-day automatic movement. Fit on a bracelet and water resistant to 300m, the watch is versatile and sporty, and rather ideal as a daily beater.

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2481 Jan 21, 2022

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)

A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...