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The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous Aug 26, 2019

The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome

It might surprise you to learn that one of my favourite watches from this year’s SIHH show was the Dazzling Rendez-Vous from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Rendez-Vous has been a strong women’s offering for some time, but this Dazzling version really ups the ante. This is thanks largely to that outer ring of 36 diamonds, which dominate … ContinuedThe post The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris Time+Tide
Oris Chronoris Editor’s note Aug 21, 2019

Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris

Editor’s note: In case you missed it, T+T HQ is located in Melbourne, which is currently rather cold. And one of the few things warming me up right now (because the office heater just isn’t cutting it) is the warm details on this funky Oris Chronoris, which, even though it’s a few years old, I … ContinuedThe post Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s Dream Aug 17, 2019

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement

Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to horology are as numerous as they are fundamental. Practically every avenue of watchmaking is built on the foundations he laid down, from the perpetuelle self-winding mechanism to pare-chute shock-protection for balance pivots. But most famous of all was the tourbillon, patented in 1801. It was crucial to the precision of mechanical pocket watches and clocks, the only kinds of timepieces in use then, which normally sat in an upright, vertical position. The Breguet Souscription pocket watch of the 1990s that replicated the 19th century originals, right down to the pare-chute escapement The tourbillon, however, was not Breguet’s only effort in improving chronometric performance. Prior to the tourbillon, he created the lesser known but more elegant echappement naturel, or natural escapement, in 1789. It was a double-wheel chronometer escapement that in theory, needed no oil. Breguet managed to incorporate it into just 20 pocket watches, but serial production of the natural escapement ultimately eluded him as its design had inherent shortcomings – primarily backlash in the motion of its wheels – that made it impossible to commercialise. The idea was ahead of its time, and it would take some 200 years before technology made the natural escapement feasible. The concept of natural escapements continues to fascinate watchmakers, many of whom have conceived modern-day descendants, the most recent of which is the Ch...

Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Aug 11, 2019

Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity

As has become a tradition for Singapore children’s charity Kidz Horizon Appeal, its annual fundraising dinner will include an auction of one of a kind watches created especially for the event. Past auctions included timepieces by Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen. This year’s line-up is made up of three watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Louis Moinet, the proceeds from which will go to the charity that funds medical treatment for children from poor families. Inspired by the colours of the Greek island, the Franck Muller Vanguard Mykonos (also pictured above) is the first watch from a limited edition of 28 made for the brand’s retailer Sincere Watch, which donated the watch to Kidz Horizon. It’s a variant of Frank Muller’s popular sports watch, with a polished steel case that has an integrated strap and a white resin insert running lengthwise along its side. Inside is the FM 0800, an automatic ETA movement.  Vanguard Mykonos Commissioned by an anonymous donor, Roger Dubuis put together the Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”, based on the wristwatch inspired by Lamborghini’s V10 coupe. Ordinarily available only with a titanium case, the Kidz Horizon edition has a case made from a combination of lightweight materials: titanium for the bezel and back, and a skeletonised case middle in C-SMC carbon – the same carbon composite used in the Huracan. The red accents on the dial and bezel are also unique to ...

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 - the Top Gun collection Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s family part 1 Aug 8, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 - the Top Gun collection

IWC is famous for their pilot’s watches, and rightfully so - they’re instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose - as a navigational tool for aviators - the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: David Newman, Chairman of The George Daniels Trust - Part I SJX Watches
Aug 5, 2019

Interview: David Newman, Chairman of The George Daniels Trust - Part I

David Newman was one of George Daniels’ oldest friends, having met the late watchmaker half a century ago. They shared a bond born out of a common love for watches, clocks and fast cars – Mr Newman is 78 but drives a Porsche 911. In fact, their friendship is best illustrated by a tale Daniels recounted with obvious relish in his autobiography All in Good Time: Reflections of a Watchmaker. Sometime in the early 1960s, just after Daniels bought a new home, he and Mr Newman had to push a naked Bentley chassis from a rented garage, through South Norwood High Street, past a police station, over a bridge and railway line, in order to install the half-complete automobile in Daniels’ new home. The chassis naturally got stuck at the bridge, causing a traffic jam several blocks long made up of spectators who just left a nearby Crystal Palace football game. With help from passersby, the duo managed to get enough momentum for the chassis to roll along on its own, although only Daniels was on board. More importantly, Mr Newman was also one of Daniels’ most trusted friends – the watchmaker appointed Mr Newman chairman of the George Daniels’ Educational Trust, making the former building surveyor the lead guardian of the Daniels legacy. Long retired from his professional career, Mr Newman now oversees the trust almost full time. Most of the trust’s substantial income goes to fund education, a cause close to Daniels’ heart. Though a negligible portion of the trus...

RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board) Time+Tide
IWC Aug 4, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board)

Some of my favourite releases from SIHH 2019 were the watches from the IWC Spitfire collection, which offers a host of twists on their classic pilot’s collection, and a few special limited editions - like the Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight”.  At SIHH we also learned more about the story of this watch, or … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Aug 1, 2019

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic

It’s easy to forget or overlook the magnitude of what Hublot has achieved with their materials innovation - the scale and scope of their sapphire pieces is impressive to say the least, and their use of ceramic is amongst the most interesting in the business (which is no small feat given that every brand and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 11 most exciting chronographs of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 31, 2019

The 11 most exciting chronographs of 2018

For some, money is no object. For most, this is far from the case, but still an enjoyable intellectual exercise of “what if”. So, what if you win the lottery, and after taking care of the dull administrative duties (mortgage, student loan, etc), you decide to treat yourself to a couple of nice watches and, … ContinuedThe post The 11 most exciting chronographs of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Wants to Help Save the Planet SJX Watches
Rolex Wants Jul 29, 2019

Rolex Wants to Help Save the Planet

Many great human endeavours that Rolex has been part of have a distinctly earthly ring to them. From Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summiting the world’s tallest mountain to Jacques Piccard reaching the deepest point in the oceans, or even Fidel Castro journeying through Cuba’s rainforests, a great deal of the planet has been covered with a Rolex keeping time. While Geneva watchmaking giant has sponsored various explorers over the decades, its focus has now shifted subtly, but substantially. Rolex will support ecologically minded explorers of the natural world, specifically to help them learn how to preserve it. Named Perpetual Planet, this doubtlessly well funded initiative consolidates three of the company’s key partnerships – the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, its longterm association with the National Geographic Society, and Mission Blue, led by American oceanographer Sylvia Earle. The Wilsdorf legacy While it is easy to be cynical about a maker of luxury watches claiming to do good, charity is not merely a box to be ticked at Rolex. The founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, had no children and upon his death in 1960, gifted his ownership of the watch brand to an eponymous foundation that’s one of the largest charitable foundations in Europe. Though it operates discreetly, the foundation does so on an immense scale, especially in relation to its home country, which is wealthy but small. From saving the Geneva’s football club to bankrolling the...

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith Heuer et al or Jul 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph

Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Theo Auffret Introduces the Tourbillon à Paris SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Theo Auffret was one Jul 15, 2019

Theo Auffret Introduces the Tourbillon à Paris

A winner at last year’s Young Talent Competition organised by F.P. Journe, Theo Auffret was one of three watchmakers in their twenties recognised for outstanding horological achievement. Now 24 years old, Mr Auffret’s award-winning entry for the competition was the Tourbillon à Paris, which has now been refined, perfected, and turned into a souscription edition of five watches for Mr Auffret to raise the money needed to establish his own workshop. Like fellow up-and-coming watchmakers Remy Cools and Cyril Brivet-Naudot, Mr Auffret graduated from Lycée Polyvalent Edgar Faure in Morteau, a small town in eastern France. The school has been prolific in turning out talented watchmakers, many of whom exhibit a flavour of 19th century pocket watch movements in their creations. The front of the Tourbillon à Paris Hand-made in Paris Mr Auffret’s final stop in his watchmaking education was a stint at Ateliers 7h38, the complications workshop led by Luca Soprana that’s best known for its work on the Jacob & Co. Astronomia. He spent a year there, working on the recently launched Astronomia Maestro Minute Repeater. But the formative years of his education were spent with Jean-Bapiste Viot. The Tourbillon à Paris is strongly influenced by Mr Auffret’s time as an apprentice at the Paris workshop of Mr Viot, well regarded for his quirky, distinctive wristwatch. Like Mr Viot, the young watchmaker relied only on pen and paper to design and construct the prototype of...

Doubling down on two-tone - the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; Jun 29, 2019

Doubling down on two-tone - the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G;

Two years can be a long time in the life of a product – long enough for it to go from controversial to comfortably accepted, or even loved, as its challenging elements become softened by familiarity. That’s certainly true for two of the watches introduced by Tudor in 2017, which attracted attention and controversy in … ContinuedThe post Doubling down on two-tone – the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring² Introduces the Perpetual Doppel SJX Watches
Jun 21, 2019

Habring² Introduces the Perpetual Doppel

Austrian watchmaker Habring² is well-regarded for its affordable, cleverly engineered watches, particularly the Doppel rattrapante. Now Habring² takes the Doppel a step further: the Perpetual Doppel combines the mono-pusher, split seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, while still keeping it affordable as such things go. Constructed atop its proprietary A11 movement (itself derived from the robust Valjoux 7750), the Perpetual Doppel is unusual in using a complications module not made by Habring², which typically designs its own complications. Instead, the watch uses the tried and tested perpetual calendar module produced by Dubois-Depraz, a complications specialist that also supplies the module to other makers of affordable perpetual calendars. This makes the Perpetual Doppel the most complicated serially produced Habring² watch, though the brand has produced one-off repeaters and tourbillons in the past. The Perpetual Doppel is generously sized at 43mm in diameter to spread out the calendar displays as much as possible to maximise legibility. But despite the added height of the perpetual calendar, the case manages to stay just 12mm high. Readability is also helped by the red gold-gilded hour numerals and red gold-plated hands that contrast with the brushed, silvered dial. And the chronograph has two central seconds hands for the split-seconds function, along with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock for elapsed minutes. The Habring² c...

INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019 Time+Tide
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Jun 18, 2019

INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019

This year, Zenith is lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero automatic chronograph, which is being marked with the release of the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival. This is a very cool watch for a number of reasons, but first, let’s look back a half century. The birth of the El … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READI - uh - LISTENING: Halios, Autodromo and Baltic over on the Worn & Wound podcast Time+Tide
Baltic over Jun 12, 2019

RECOMMENDED READI - uh - LISTENING: Halios, Autodromo and Baltic over on the Worn & Wound podcast

It’s 2019. So podcasts and niche indie brands are where. it’s. at. Which is why today’s recommendation is the perfect package - offering both in spades. The Worn & Wound podcast is one of the best in the space, and it only gets better when they assemble the veritable avengers of “micro” brands, the guys … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READI – uh – LISTENING: Halios, Autodromo and Baltic over on the Worn & Wound podcast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Industrial aesthetics - the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Jun 11, 2019

Industrial aesthetics - the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold

Editor’s note: In the last few years, two-tone watches have moved from fringe to mainstream trend status. And while it’s clear that yellow gold has been largely replaced with pink, the other material de rigueur is typically steel. Which is why we’re still so into the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold – the perfect … ContinuedThe post Industrial aesthetics – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Farer Lander GMT Automatic proves travel doesn’t have to be so serious Time+Tide
Farer Lander GMT Automatic proves May 31, 2019

The Farer Lander GMT Automatic proves travel doesn’t have to be so serious

Editor’s note: Who doesn’t love a good micro brand (we certainly do)? In many ways the little guys have so much more freedom than the big brands, when it comes to design, production (and all the rest). Case in point is the Farer Lander GMT, which we reviewed last year … Having previously reviewed the … ContinuedThe post The Farer Lander GMT Automatic proves travel doesn’t have to be so serious appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Tudor Pelagos LHD is excellent, but we want more Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos LHD May 30, 2019

The Tudor Pelagos LHD is excellent, but we want more

Editor’s note: The last time the Tudor Pelagos received a significant line extension was the LHD (left hand drive), which debuted in 2016. It’s a great watch - and arguably the ‘hottest’ of the Pelagos variants. But something we can all agree on is that it’s a line that’s well due for some more attention. … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Pelagos LHD is excellent, but we want more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605  Time+Tide
Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605  May 26, 2019

HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605 

Increasingly, I’m finding myself drawn to watches that are understated, unassuming expressions of classical perfection. Which goes a long way to explaining why I was so into the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat.  This is an exquisitely simple watch. Two hands, no date and a manually wound movement. A pure expression of classical watchmaking if ever … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 watches to survive the end of the world, just in case things really kick off Time+Tide
May 25, 2019

5 watches to survive the end of the world, just in case things really kick off

Editor’s note: It’s 2019, and along with the feeling that drone-delivered pizza is imminent, many people are also experiencing some form of existential apocalyptic angst. And rather than tell you that it’s all going to be OK, we’d suggest you prepare by watching a few series of Doomsday Preppers and reading this list. We’re sure … ContinuedThe post 5 watches to survive the end of the world, just in case things really kick off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4 Australian businessmen proving their watches are all business Time+Tide
May 23, 2019

4 Australian businessmen proving their watches are all business

Today we are focusing on the watches owned and worn by prominent Aussie businessmen, from mining magnates to property moguls and shopping centre kings.  Sir Frank Lowy AC   First up we have Sir Frank Lowy AC, who co-founded the Westfield Group, which developed and owned a number of shopping centres in Australasia, Europe and … ContinuedThe post 4 Australian businessmen proving their watches are all business appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A fistful of tourbillons and a fancy fish - 3 high-end standouts from Time to Move Time+Tide
May 20, 2019

A fistful of tourbillons and a fancy fish - 3 high-end standouts from Time to Move

Time to Move, which took place last week in Switzerland, is the higher end Swatch Group brands’ alternative to Baselworld. And because they’re the prestige brands, it’s only fitting to expect some prestigious watches. We were not disappointed. Here are three watches that are less about telling the time and more about showing the world … ContinuedThe post A fistful of tourbillons and a fancy fish – 3 high-end standouts from Time to Move appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two-tone done right - the Tudor Black Bay S&G; Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay S&G; Editor’s May 10, 2019

Two-tone done right - the Tudor Black Bay S&G;

Editor’s note: The last few years has seen an increasing number of two-tone releases - even several in yellow (!) gold. All of which only confirms that bi-metallic watches are back in a big way. One of the best is the Tudor Black Bay S&G;. Here it is in all its steel and gold glory … ContinuedThe post Two-tone done right – the Tudor Black Bay S&G; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000 Time+Tide
May 2, 2019

LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000

Throughout our recent discussions on what it is that defines value, we’ve explored some different ways of approaching that question. Ultimately, it’s down to the wearer to decide the return on their investment, but which watches do we think are pretty darn likely to get a thumbs up from our readers across the board? So … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Chopard  L.U.C XPS Twist Qualité Fleurier brings style, substance and sustainability to the table Time+Tide
Chopard   L.U.C XPS Twist Apr 29, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Chopard  L.U.C XPS Twist Qualité Fleurier brings style, substance and sustainability to the table

Chopard is one of the great secrets of the watchworld. The brand, which is better known for its feminine jewellery collections, produces some truly phenomenal watches, of a style and quality that rivals the best in the business.  Take, for example, the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist Qualité Fleurier (QF). It’s a gorgeous dress watch with … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard  L.U.C XPS Twist Qualité Fleurier brings style, substance and sustainability to the table appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is this the most accessible true worldtimer on the market right now? The Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer Time+Tide
Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer Apr 18, 2019

HANDS-ON: Is this the most accessible true worldtimer on the market right now? The Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer

Worldtimers - which allow you to, at a glance, quickly determine the time anywhere across the globe - aren’t the most common complications. And typically, this level of mechanical wizardry comes at a cost. Typically. This handsome fella, the C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer from UK-based outfit Christopher Ward, bucks the trend. Before we delve into … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is this the most accessible true worldtimer on the market right now? The Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.