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Time+Tide
Andrew gets hands-on with Maurice de Mauriac's third tennis-inspired watch with Racquet Magazine.The post The Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III offers a grass court dial inspired by Wimbledon (live unboxing) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base. Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...
Teddy Baldassarre
RGM Watch Company, named for the initials of its founder, independent watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, is the first American watch company to serially produce a mechanical watch movement since 1969 — the year that Lancaster, PA-based Hamilton pulled up stakes for its current HQ in Switzerland. Murphy, formerly Hamilton’s Technical Manager, founded his own eponymous company in Lancaster County, a historical hotbed of watchmaking, in 1992. His fledgling firm made the watch industry, and the worldwide watch-enthusiast community, take notice when it created, essentially from scratch, the groundbreaking Caliber 801 in 2007 — a horological milestone that no other watchmaker in the United States had achieved in nearly 40 years. Since then, Caliber 801 has come to define RGM’s distinctive and still very exclusive product family — the brand still makes only around 300 pieces annually — along with its dedication to classically vintage aesthetics, which evoke the bygone days when America reigned supreme as a watchmaking nation. Up until now, however, the smallest RGM watch you could get that housed the Caliber 801 movement, 90 percent of which is made in the U.S.A. and finished and assembled in Lancaster County, was 42mm — not huge, but still a bit intimidating for some would-be owners as case sizes continue to trend smaller. This week, RGM answers that constituency's prayers with the release of the Caliber 801/40 model, whose 40mm stainless steel case represents, accor...
Monochrome
Finland has birthed some of the most fascinating watchmakers outside of Switzerland and has long left its mark on the watchmaking industry. Think of names like Kari Voutilainen and Stepan Sarpaneva, to name just two. Perhaps lesser known, but not to be overlooked, is Reima Koivukoski, whom we introduced to you about a year ago. […]
Worn & Wound
Last week, Bremont - the British brand in the midst of what could conservatively be called one of the most dramatic about faces we’ve seen from a watch brand in recent memory - dropped their first novelties of the year, a trio of bronze field watches in their Terra Nova collection. Bremont first introduced the Terra Nova collection at Watches and Wonders last year alongside a new brand identity, all of which was greeted by a decidedly mixed reaction from critics and fans alike. Now, almost a year on from the collection’s initial launch, Bemont has taken each of the three core models in the Terra Nova lineup - the aptly named Date, Power Reserve, and Chronograph - and given them the full bronze treatment, along with new horizontal gradient dial colors; green for the Date and Chronograph, caramel brown (which we first saw on a limited edition steel Terra Nova Date late last year) for the Power Reserve. Bronze has long been a tool in Bremont’s quiver - both in full bronze configurations or as an accent on watches like the S302 - but here, the brand has opted to step up their materials game by using “Cupro-Aluminium Bronze,” a high-tech alloy that adds silicon and aluminum into the mix. Bronze is typically made up of a blend of about ~90% copper and ~10% tin, and I can’t speak to how much of that has been substituted for silicon and aluminum, but I can tell you that Cupro-Aluminum Bronze boasts several advantages over more traditional blends. Namely, it...
Hodinkee
Established by the MRG5000, the popular colorway now makes its way to the octagonal icon, this time with a rubber strap.
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko STGK031 & STGK033 share cherry blossom-inspired dial hues as well as a diminutive 30mm diameter.The post Grand Seiko releases two new 30mm cherry blossom 62GSs – their slimmest and smallest automatics yet! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Of course, you are familiar with Omega and, most probably, Armin Strom as well. But did you know that Armin Strom, founder of the eponymous brand, was once the artisan doing all the skeleton work for Omega in the 1990s? Skeleton watches The art of movement skeletonization is old, and we still see it today […] Visit The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Among higher end Swiss watch brands, few have experienced a greater turnaround, at least on the surface, over the past several years than Parmigiani Fleurier. Parmigiani has always been a brand that knowledgable collectors and enthusiasts have praised and found a great deal of value in, but the brand itself didn’t always seem healthy. Before Guido Terreni took over in 2021, it would have been quite common to find heavily discounted Parmigianis on the gray market – a common symptom of overproducing too many references and not being able to find your core customer. Under Terreni, the brand’s output has been streamlined and everything just seems more thought through. And while I don’t have insight into sales statistics, you certainly don’t see the brand’s current catalog selling for closeout prices on the discount sites, a sign that they’ve got production under control, at the very least. One of the brand’s biggest gambits has been the exploring the integrated bracelet sports watch market with the Tonda PF collection. Launched at a time when every luxury brand was throwing their hat in the ring in this particular category, Parmigiani has sought to differentiate itself from competitors in the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch world by leaning into the luxury angle, and perhaps a little away from the sport. Inspired by a “sartorial approach” to watch design, the Tonda PF is all about feel, texture, and proportions in a manner similar to a bespoke sui...
Monochrome
Perrelet, a member of the Festina Group (since 2004), which owns movement manufacturer Soprod, traces its roots back to 1777. Today, the brand is best known for its Turbine collection, which was first introduced in 2009. These distinctive timepieces feature an oscillating weight on the back and a series of turbine blades on the front that spin freely with wrist movement, revealing the dial beneath. The dynamic Turbine dials provide a canvas for creativity, and over the years, Perrelet has embraced experimentation with models like the Splash, Hypnotic, Royal Flush, Rainbow, Erotica, and Skull. The brand's latest partnership with seconde/seconde pushes the whimsy even further, bringing the playful "Safety First" concept to life on the dial.
Monochrome
Mido, one of the accessible brands of the Swatch Group, introduced the Gradient series to its Commander collection a few years ago, showcasing semi-transparent dégradé dials that reveal much of the movement beneath. Since then, the lineup has expanded with versions now available in black and blue, in stainless steel uncoated or with black PVD, […]
Monochrome
Like every year and for now eight consecutive times, Swiss watch industry consultancy firm LuxeConsult and financial institution Morgan Stanley have worked together to bring their annual report of the Swiss watch industry, and the estimated revenues of the top 50 brands. While the 2023 report showed records for the market, it also indicated the […]
Worn & Wound
“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is an idiom that will seemingly always ring true throughout the watch industry for brands of all different origins and ages. There are certain watch models that are so easily recognizable because of their distinctive and timeless looks, and while other companies eventually attempt to replicate them and hopefully attain the same amount of success, they can never truly capture the essence of the original. The Seiko Orange Monster may not be everyone’s cup of tea. It’s a girthy diver with a bright dial, large lume-filled indices, and a heavy-duty stainless-steel shroud that I’m quite positive would look amiss with a three-piece suit. That being said, however, millions worldwide have embraced its robust and striking aesthetics over the years. The First-Generation models, while similar to their successors on the surface, have cemented themselves as cult classics within the collector sphere. Why? For a few reasons, I think. Reason 1: An Overall Oddity with Near Perfect Proportions When the Monster series was first announced, there was nothing quite like it on the market. Reception upon its initial release of reference SKX781 in 2000 was polarizing––some found the ambitious design, for lack of a better term, ugly. As time went on, more and more skeptics began to fall for its unique aesthetics and Seiko, noticing this trend, continued production of the Monster series for over two decades with minor tweaks here and there. The ...
Monochrome
When it comes to ceramic watches, Hublot has, over the years, managed to be one of the most creative brands by achieving cases and parts in the brightest possible colours imaginable (green, orange, light blue, yellow, sand…) Obtaining strong colours on ceramic is more difficult than many imagine, the base material – ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide […]
Monochrome
Louis Vuitton is at the apex of the luxury ladder, recognised worldwide for its high-quality leather goods and accessories emblazoned with the iconic LV monogram. Although the Maison’s history dates back to 1854, watches didn’t materialise in LV’s portfolio until 2002 with the release of the Tambour. After 20 years of loyal service, the Tambour […]
SJX Watches
During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...
Deployant
Louis Vuitton releases a new addition to their Tambour line in the form of the Tambour Ceramic. Now in ceramic and rose gold.
Time+Tide
UniDesign launches a softer, motorsport-inspired take on the sports watch.The post The UniDesign Autoclassic combines 1970s funk with automotive cues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross, the Franco-Swiss watchmaker celebrated for its aviation instrument-inspired timepieces, ventures into the celestial realm with the BR-03 Astro. This striking new model, limited to 999 pieces, takes inspiration from the larger theme of space exploration, capturing the Earth, Moon, and Mars within its avant-garde dial. Despite the seemingly cosmic display, the dial only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds in a conventional manner, keeping the watch affordable. By merging sharp execution with a cosmic narrative, Bell & Ross introduces an imaginative take on its mostly functional “tool” watches. Initial thoughts At the core of the BR-03 Astro sits a unique, if simplistic, reinterpretation of a “planetary” movement. Over the celestial aventurine glass base, a tiny Mars indicates the hours, a realistic-looking Moon indicates the minutes, and a satellite marks the passing seconds. All these indicators revolve around a large Earth that rests immobile at the centre of the dial. What is basically a three-hand watch becomes a rather immersive reinterpretation of the universe. While the motion of the planets is not accurate, the interplay of these well-reproduced celestial bodies has an undeniable appeal to it. The BR-03 Astro is not an astronomical complication nor an accurate cosmos model but manages to appeal through its playful take on the space theme, while staying in the same price range as the more conventional BR-03 models. This is an interesti...
Time+Tide
Wearing watches that don't work seems sacrilegious for a watch writer - but Buffy makes the case for wearing timepieces that don't tick.The post Why you should wear a broken watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
A continuous jovial smile in the often overserious world of watches comes courtesy of Konstantin Chaykin. With the debut of the Joker in 2017, the Russian watchmaker introduced the Wristmons collection of watches that combines fun with serious watchmaking. Over the past seven years, he has created 40 characters for the series. The sheer number […] Visit Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Most Seiko lovers would prefer to own a Japanese-made "JDM" Seiko to an international version. But is this preference well-founded?The post Are “JDM” Seikos really that much better than normal Seiko watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Good morning, dear Fratelli. It’s Sunday again, which means we’re pitting two watches against each other. This week, Daan defends the recently released Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026. In the other corner, it’s Thomas with the Chopard L.U.C XPS ref. 61948-5001. That’s right; after the battle of the integrated-bracelet sports watches last week, get […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS to read the full article.
Monochrome
Restomodding has come a long way over the past decade or so, and the number of projects announced over the course of a year is impressive. From Singer making a huge impact with over-the-top detailed Porsche 911s to classic Jaguars, Alfa Romeo’s and Lancia’s, to mind-blowing new interpretations of the Diablo and everything in between. […]
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Fred Savage Enters the Vintage Watch Verification Game While actor Fred Savage is still mostly associated with his iconic run as Kevin Arnold in The Wonder Years, his stock has risen in recent years within the watch community, coming out as a serious collector, particularly of vintage watches. Now he’s turning that enthusiasm into a new business venture, Timepiece Grading Specialists. The mission of TGS is to provide authentication and valuation services to vintage watch collectors (they’ll also provide services like, well, servicing, and storage, for additional fees), and as this article in the New York Times notes, watches that have passed through TGS have already been sold at auction via Sotheby’s, complete with their TGS assessment. We’ve seen many celebrities embrace the watch community, but few have taken the step of entrepreneurship in the way Savage has, so it will be interesting to see how he fares in the notoriously fraught world of vintage watch authentication. Gary Gets a Suit Several years back, Gary Shteyngart achieved a level of viral fame in the watch co...
Time+Tide
Love is in the air, with brands unveiling Valentine's Day limited editions this week.The post New releases from Bremont, Brellum, Breguet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bovet's Miss Audrey “Bris de Verre” and the Virtuoso XI are two of its latest offerings to celebrate and commemorate everything for which Valentine’s Day stands.
Fratello
Getting your ocean-capable watches wet has been a mantra I’ve taken to countless reviews. But long have I postponed taking my dive watch, the blue Tudor Black Bay 58, scuba diving. The reasons are many. Frankly, though, none of them are good enough to justify how someone (a passionate ocean enthusiast, at that) who lives […] Visit Getting PADI Diving Certified With My Tudor Black Bay 58 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We spoke with former Hodinkee Editor Tony Traina to dissect the Gallet acquisition news he broke.The post Is Gallet set to become Breitling’s Tudor? Discussing the rumoured acquisition with Tony Traina appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Of course, we can’t buy all the watches in the world, and not all watches are within our budgets. So, especially as someone who professionally writes about watches, I’ve learned to appreciate ones that are not in my financial scope or simply not my style. In some cases, that’s harder to do than in others. […] Visit Introducing: Bvlgari And MB&F; Turn The Serpenti Into A Horological Machine to read the full article.
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