Revolution
Ferrari Watches: The Modern Era
From Panerai to Hublot, our Editor at Large completes his tour through some greatest hits from a watch world that loves a bit of Ferrari.
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Black Titanium
The eight years Vacheron Constantin spent on developing the most complicated watch ever – the Reference 57260 pocket watch – spawned not just the timepiece itself, but various complications incorporated within its movement. A handful of its complications have been translated into wristwatch form, including the multi-axis tourbillon, resulting in the Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon. Originally launched in 2016 in a white gold case, and later iterated with cases in other precious metals, the Armillary Tourbillon recently made its debut with a black-coated titanium case, giving it a radically different look and feel from the earlier versions. The watch is big, lightweight, and mechanical looking, setting it apart from the typical Vacheron Constantin. Though its colours are stealthy, the size of the case and intricacy of the dial mean it is hard to miss. The case is huge – 45 mm in diameter and over 20mm high – and it looks the part on the wrist. Part of the thickness is due to the highly-domed crystal, a necessity because of the relatively thick movement and bi-axial tourbillon. In fact, the tourbillon sits so high that a bubble is integrated into the already-high crystal to accommodate the cage. The pointed tips of the lugs are inspired by the Maltese cross, which is also the logo of Vacheron Constantin But this particular version of the Armillary Tourbillon is satisfyingly light because of the case material. As a result it wears relatively well for a watch ...
Time+Tide
Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic?
We’re not even a month into 2020 but already Bulgari has released a collection of stunning new references in the Octo Finissimo range, with two standout pieces in steel and ceramic. But which piece is more compelling? The team share their thoughts. James Robinson – Team Steel The biggest news, by far, coming out of … ContinuedThe post Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Tissot trifecta: The 3 most important Tissot watches of 2019
Tissot had a resolutely excellent end to the decade, releasing plenty of exciting new timepieces in 2019 that got the watch community talking. What’s more, the Swiss watchmaker made a conscious effort to cater to both people just getting into watches, as well as the dyed-in-the-wool veterans. We won’t cover every new timepiece Tissot unveiled … ContinuedThe post Tissot trifecta: The 3 most important Tissot watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
How LIP And Timex Became Involved In Two Of The 20th Century’s Most Vicious Industrial Disputes
If you were to ask people about the first watch they received as a child, the majority would probably say it was a Timex. And although LIP was at one point the world’s seventh largest watch manufacturer, it's now little known outside France. Both companies share an extremely turbulent past one aspect of which Colin Smith shares with us here.
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Think Twice Before Buying the Crowdsourced TAG Heuer Watch | Watchfinder & Co.
Time+Tide
These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019
As is the case with every other year in recent times, 2019 was a very, very good one for the inimitable Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Not only did we see the marque, which has been around since 1738, create their first ever Grande Seconde Chronograph, we also saw a great new addition to their Grande … ContinuedThe post These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Receives France's Legion Of Honor
The watch-industry legend has been awarded one of the French republic's most prestigious honors.
SJX Watches
Business News: Louis Vuitton Buys World’s Largest Uncut Diamond
Just as the inaugural LVMH Watch Week closed its doors – after Hublot, Bulgari and Zenith had presented their new timepieces – Louis Vuitton has something even bigger to boast about. The Parisian luxury brand, which is the biggest component of LVMH, has just acquired a stake in the world’s largest uncut diamond, which is also the second-biggest diamond ever. Discovered last April at the Karowe mine in Botswana, the Sewelô weighs 1,758 carats, or quite a bit larger than a tennis ball. Sewelo means “rare find” in Setswana, a language spoken in Southern Africa. It was the name chosen from some 22,000 entries that were submitted to a contest run by the mining firm that discovered the stone, Canadian outfit Lucara. Despite the moniker, the Sewelo is not unique – it is the second diamond over 1,000 carats mined by Karowe, after the 1,109 carat Lesedi de Rona found in 2015 and then sold for US$53 million to Graff, which cut it into in several smaller stones. Currently stored on the top floor of Louis Vuitton’s jewellery store on the Place Vendome in Paris, the Sewelô is covered in carbon, and its quality is unknown, although it was described as “near gem quality”, and containing “domains of high-quality white gem”, by Lucara. According to Louis Vuitton chief executive Michael Burke, quoted in The New York Times, the luxury house will only cut and set the stone after it has found a buyer, instead of keeping it as an object for exhibitions. Though Louis V...
Quill & Pad
Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Rainbow: The Trick Is In Making It Look Casually Playful
At the 2020 LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Hublot introduced a second chapter to its Rainbow concept by giving the shaped Spirit of Big Bang model the multicolored treatment. Martin Green thinks it is even better than the previous Big Bang edition as it's all down to the angles.
Time+Tide
Do you need a Dan Henry in your collection?
A lot of things have been said about Dan Henry timepieces – both good and bad. But to understand the watchmaker, we first need to understand the man behind the brand. Dan Henry may well be one of the most prolific vintage watch collectors on the planet, and his personal hoard of timepieces stretches well … ContinuedThe post Do you need a Dan Henry in your collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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3-Piece Dress Watch Collection Under $1000 : COLLECTION REVIEW
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design
There are a lot of traditions in the luxury watch industry. From the use of pegwood to polish bevels, to the Roman “IV” rendered as “IIII”, the culture of watchmaking is full of interesting customs passed down over generations. But the most fundamental tradition remains the reliance on incremental improvements towards better timekeeping. “Better” might mean absolute performance measured over a defined period such as an observatory trial (the objective of the superstar régleurs), or reliable long-term performance on the wrist. Regardless, for almost four hundred years the quest for better precision was the guiding principle of the trade. To paraphrase from historian David S. Landes’ Revolution in Time, “… it has always been the rule that the quality of [a watch] is a function of [its] precision.” Omega cal. 47.7 observatory chronometer, where the barrel and balance occupy almost all of the diameter. Image – Omega Today, some 50 years after mechanical timekeepers were left in the dust by their “better” electronic brethren, some makers of mechanical watches are more pious in their observance of this traditional approach to incremental improvement than their competitors. And if we look carefully, we can quantify this difference in approach by looking at how different watchmakers choose to use the available energy within their movements. Our interest was to find a way to quantify which watchmakers are making high-performance timekeeping choices and ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Glycine Combat Sub Review
Glycine has been manufacturing watches since its founding in Bienne, Switzerland, in 1914. They’re probably best known for their Airman line of pilot and GMT watches, which were used extensively by the US military and even taken into space. The Combat line, including the Sub dive watch, has been in production since 1967.
Deployant
New: Breguet Classique Dame 9065
Breguet releases a new ladies watch with Tahitian mother-of-pearl adorned with sparkles of red and diamonds: the Breguet Classique Dame 9065.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Rescue
Inspired by early 20th century aviator’s watches, Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 collection gets new two versions at LVMH Watch Week. Available mostly in heavily retro guises, including in bronze or aged steel, the new pilot watches take a different tack. The Pilot Type 20 Rescue and Type 20 Rescue Chronograph are devoid of retro affectations, and are kept simple with steel cases and dark grey dials. Measuring 45 mm wide, both watches feature a brushed case band with a polished bezel as well as a polished, onion-shaped crown. Instead of the usual grained dials, they have slate-grey, sun ray-brushed dials that are accented with bolts of yellow, giving them a more modern look. As with the rest of the collection, the dials are characterised by cathedral-style hands and large applied Gothic numerals that are moulded from SuperLuminova. Powering the Pilot Type 20 Rescue is the Elite 679, an in-house, workhorse automatic movement with a 50 hour-power reserve, while the Pilot Type 20 Rescue Chronograph is equipped with the El Primero 4069, which is a variant of the El Primero 400 that lacks a date and an hour totaliser. The only element that’s “faux” patina is the distressed calfskin leather strap that was inspired by shearling flight jackets and helmets. Key facts and price Pilot Type 20 Rescue Ref. 03.2434.679/20.I010 Case diameter: 45mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 100m Movement: Elite 679 Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds Frequency: 28,800 beats p...
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral
Launched in 2005, the Big Bang was the watch that reestablished Hublot as a major watch brand. Fifteen years on, the model gets its most major revamp to date with the launch of the Big Bang Integral. While the basic concept is simple – it’s a Big Bang with an integrated bracelet – the new watch is a substantial upgrade in construction and finishing. The case was redesigned to fit the new bracelet, but also to accommodate a higher level of finishing. The Big Bang Integral King Gold Upgraded inside and out Most of the case edges, and also the pushers, have polished bevelling that contrasts with the brushed finishing on the top surfaces. The alternating surface finish continues onto the bracelet links, which are also facetted in profile. At the same time, the case construction has been improved in substance. Though the new case retains the traditional “sandwich” construction of the Big Bang, the filling of the “sandwich” is no longer resin, but is instead the same material as the front and back plates of the case. The only remaining resin bits are the resin lugs, or “ears”, on each side of the bezel at three and nine o’clock, the fundamental design feature of Hublot that was inspired by a ship’s porthole (hublot is porthole in French). The Big Bang Integral in titanium The All Black The new Big Bang is available in titanium or 18k King Gold as regular production models, and also the 500-piece limited edition Big Bang Integral All Black. Like its namesake...
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Pure Ghastly! - Your 101 Watch Pet Peeves - From Patek, Seiko, Rolex, & Everything In Between
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #158: Affordable Vintage Watches Pt. 8: Dealer’s Choice
It’s the return of a classic. This time, you’re getting two episodes in one as the guys tackle their own affordable vintage watch categories.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic
Unveiled alongside the new variants of the Octo Finissimo in gold or steel, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic is another take on the all-ceramic model launched last year. While last year’s watch had a uniformly matte finish on the case and bracelet, the new ceramic Octo Finissimo has alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces, giving it a little bit more life, with the polished bits catching the light just right. The all-black look is made a little bit more interesting with the varied surface finish, but retains the extreme sleekness of the original ceramic Octo. Like the case, the dial is monochromatic, but made legible, to a degree, with different surface finishes. The dial itself has a matte, frosted surface, while the markings and hands have a glossy finish. The dimensions of the new ceramic Octo remain unchanged from the earlier model, at 40 mm wide and 5.5 mm high. Inside is the BVL138 movement found across the Octo Finissimo Automatic model range. Key facts and price Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic Ref. 103368 Case diameter: 40 mm Height: 5.5 mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 30 m Movement: BVL138 Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 60 hours Strap: Black ceramic bracelet Availability: At both retailers and boutiques Price: US$15,600, or 22,000 Singapore dollars For more, visit Bulgari.com.
Time+Tide
Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019
It may surprise many reading this, but two out of the three Omega watches that really got the collective horological community talking in 2019 weren’t limited editions. In fact, the one limited edition watch that really struck a chord with enthusiasts, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, was just a gorgeous looking timepiece, regardless of … ContinuedThe post Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Rush Drummer Neil Peart Loses Patek Philippe, Gets It Back 11 Years Later
A cherished watch lost on a motorcycle trip finds its way back to one of the greatest drummers of all time.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire
Chanel’s best known watch is unquestionably the all-ceramic J12, now in its refined and upgraded second generation. But its most interesting watch – from a mechanic and design perspective – is the Monsieur de Chanel. Originally offered only in precious metals, the watch was last year given a stylish makeover with the Monsieur Édition Noire that’s clad entirely in matte black ceramic. A jumping hour with retrograde minutes, the Édition Noire is powered by the Calibre 1, an original, integrated movement produced with help from independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier. But equally important is its design, which is discreetly brilliant. The watch has the sort of thoughtful aesthetic that pays attention to the whole but also the details – the typeface used on the dial was designed expressly for the watch – that is expected from the grand Parisian fashion house. In fact, the design is more coherent and informed than many watches created by traditional watchmakers. The Chanel elements of the watch are subtle, like the octagonal frame for the hours inspired by the Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle The long road Like other luxury fashion houses, Chanel has been working hard to make proper timepieces, watches that are well made and equipped with respectable movements. Earlier this year it took a 20% stake in movement maker Kenissi, in a joint venture with Tudor, which now produces calibres for the face-lifted J12. Kenissi is merely the latest investment in Chanel’s gradual...
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Didun Design Automatic Watch Unboxing & Initial Impressions | AP Royal Oak Homage - $75
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
Moser's first automatic chronograph is a powerful new presence in the steel sports watch field.
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Hands-on with the H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
We take an in-depth look at the new H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic and mark its entry into the world of the luxury sports steel watch.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Aquis Lake Baikal Limited Edition
Continuing their commitment to raising awareness about various issues threatening the world’s great bodies of water, Oris has released a new, “high performance” dive watch inspired by, and in commemoration of, efforts to preserve this treasured natural wonder.
Quill & Pad
Visiting The De Bethune Manufacture In The Swiss Mountains (Video): Is It A Spaceship?
De Bethune is one of the most avant-garde watch brands on the planet. Knowing that, did you ever wonder what its factory looks like? Is it much different from other watch factories? What do this brand’s technicians do differently than others? How do they get the watches to look like that? And the most burning question: does the factory look like a spaceship? These questions and more get answered here.
Time+Tide
Porthole perfection: Our top 5 Hublot watches from 2019
Horological disruptors Hublot were on a veritable roll last year, releasing a great many new and innovative timepieces that once again show why they are making waves in the watch world. Here are a few special wristwatches that caught our eye. HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO TEAK ITALIA INDEPENDENT TITANIUM Limited to just 100 pieces, the … ContinuedThe post Porthole perfection: Our top 5 Hublot watches from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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