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Crown Guards

Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.

Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus Time+Tide
Patek Philippe announced Dec 6, 2021

Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus

Earlier this year, Patek Philippe announced that the Nautilus, the most sought-after watch in the entire world, was being retired. The acclaimed reference would have one final victory lap – which many of us believed was a pair of Nautilus watches with olive-green dials, one with a diamond bezel. VIP collectors chased after the duo, … ContinuedThe post Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aleksander Nesterenko Makes His Debut with the Art Deco SJX Watches
Dec 5, 2021

Aleksander Nesterenko Makes His Debut with the Art Deco

Independent watchmaking is trending not only among seasoned collectors, but even in the broader, hobbyist community – something that was hardly imaginable not too long ago. But what is independent watchmaking really? An independent watchmaker can be loosely defined as one who creates – not merely produces – watches for each client on an individual basis, at least during his or her start-up period. This individuality and personalisation is crucial, as these qualities result in the sort of watches that convey the magic of watchmaking, allowing the owners of such watches to touch the soul of their creator. Just like any form of art, the spirit of an independent watchmaker is forever embodied in his or her work – though the second half of the life of the watch is bestowed upon it by the owner. Russian watchmaking The development of this niche segment of the watchmaking is nevertheless globe spanning, and it is present in one of the most scenic cities in Russia, Saint Petersburg. Perhaps led by Konstantin Chaykin, now well-known internationally with his inventive and quirky creations, interesting independent watchmakers have begun to rise in the city, with the most recent examples being Maxim Sushkov and HoD Russia. But today we profile Alexander Nesterenko. Like many extraordinary independent watchmakers of our time – including the acclaimed George Daniels and the lesser-known Thomas Engels – Mr Nesterenko learned watchmaking by himself. Through reading, practicing...

Review: the new Luminox Commando Raider Deployant
Luminox Dec 4, 2021

Review: the new Luminox Commando Raider

The Luminox Commando Raider is an unusually bright Luminox, which has mostly opted for black or darker colored dial variants. It provides a more vibrant variant for those who appreciate a little more fanfare but maybe less appreciated by those who want more tactical accessorizing. That said, the bright green is not a blocker for those who prefer a tactical color, since there is also a black strap variant.

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar SJX Watches
Omega Debuts Dec 1, 2021

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar

Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...

New: Breitling Super AVI B04. With live pics and prices. Deployant
Breitling Super AVI B04 Nov 17, 2021

New: Breitling Super AVI B04. With live pics and prices.

Breitling salutes the aviation history with the new Super AVI collection with watches inspired by the original 1953 “Co-Pilot” Ref. 765 AVI aviator’s watch and four legendary planes: the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair, the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and the de Havilland Mosquito. Press Release info with live photographs. We haveRead More

HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Nov 17, 2021

HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet

If you’re going to draw inspiration from anything, the French Riviera is as good as it gets. Baume & Mercier’s Riviera line stems from the trauma of the 1970s, when Swiss watchmaking was under fire from the quartz uprising and adaptation was pivotal. Among the early brands to emerge with their heads held high were … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 would set Nov 2, 2021

EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call”

Editor’s note: If you can get one at retail the green dial Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 would set you back $34,893 USD. But that’s one extremely big “if”. Consequently, people are willing to pay crazy prizes for what is still a watch that only came out this year. Recently, for example, a Nautilus 5711/014  sold on … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Orange Is The New Black At Only Watch 2021: 5 Unique Watches With Sunny Dispositions And Orange Accents Quill & Pad
Oct 28, 2021

Orange Is The New Black At Only Watch 2021: 5 Unique Watches With Sunny Dispositions And Orange Accents

Many brands participating in the 2021 Only Watch auction took inspiration from the orange-colored livery of the 2021 auction and worked it into their watches. While all of these watches are very different, what they have in common is their highly creative approach. Here Martin Green highlights five watches with orange in them from the 2021 Only Watch auction.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem: A Striking Reminder To Make Every Precious Moment Count Quill & Pad
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Oct 25, 2021

Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem: A Striking Reminder To Make Every Precious Moment Count

One of Martin Green's favorite watches of 2021 is the Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem. At rest, the time is not visible on this watch. However, after pushing a snake-shaped button the entire dial comes to life as a rattlesnake begins to move and the skull begins to laugh at you. And finally you can see the time (but only if you need to).

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal

The thrum of the horizontally opposed twin engine spins into a whine when the traffic lights go green. It’s a beautiful spring day in Sydney and the old BMW motorbike is in its element as I wind along a coastal road, with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean flanking the cliffs.  I look down and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Must Collection offers Oct 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price

The quartz crisis is often spoken about with abject horror, and for good reason. Japanese quartz watches were more accurate, reliable, and cheaper than Swiss mechanicals, so why would anyone buy an old-fashioned and outdated piece of technology? Given that Switzerland controlled over half of the world’s mechanical watch industry after the second world war, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation SJX Watches
Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation Oct 18, 2021

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation

Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps… Time+Tide
Oct 15, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps…

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen I recently received my Kurono SEIJI watch. If you are unfamiliar with the watch you can check out my initial coverage here, although in the coming weeks I will be sure to do an owner’s review. For some context, the watch was initially launched with … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P

Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection SJX Watches
Casio n Swatch constructed Oct 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection

Launched in 1983 – with the driving force behind its conception being Ernst Thomke, the then-chief of movement manufacturer ETA – Swatch set out to be the antithesis of the traditional Swiss-made watch. Cased in plastic and quartz, the Swatch watch was cheap, cheerful, and vividly colourful. But it was a hit, with its unusual, funky styling making the Swatch a fashion statement – a million watches were sold in the first year. To celebrate the occasion, Swatch constructed a 13-tonne, 162 m-long mega-watch and hung it from the front of the Commerzbank skyscraper in Frankfurt. A homage to London’s Big Ben, the giant clock was a brilliant publicity stunt that boldly announced the ambitions of Swatch. The oversized watch indicated the time and three pieces of information: “Swatch”, “Swiss”, and the retail price of “DM60”. Now Swatch is remembering 1984 with a quintet of watches, each a recreation of the year’s bestsellers, but with a twist. Instead of plastic as the originals were, the remakes have cases of Bioceramic, while the straps are made of bio-sourced plastic – making the entire watch a little friendlier to the environmental than the 1980s originals. Initial thoughts Given the diverse and imaginative offerings at Swatch, it’s unusual for the company to reissue vintage watches, though it’s done a couple in the recent past. Interestingly, the 1984 collection resonates with the broader, luxury-watch market, which frequently returns to past hit...

Business News: Watchbox Forecasts 2021 Revenue to Cross US$300m SJX Watches
De Bethune Oct 6, 2021

Business News: Watchbox Forecasts 2021 Revenue to Cross US$300m

Having been founded in 2017 as a spinoff from authorised retailer Govberg Jewelers, Watchbox has swiftly grown into one of the biggest sellers of pre-owned watches globally. Having started life with a US$100m capital infusion from a Singapore-based private equity outfit, the company has just announced 2021 sales will cross US$300m, thanks to growth projected to top 40%. For comparison, that is approximately equivalent to the annual watch sales of the major auction houses, namely Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s. The announcement comes just weeks after Watchbox took a majority stake in De Bethune, a respected independent watchmaker that nonetheless struggling for most of its existence, but is now on a sounder financial footing. At the same time, the financial resources available to Watchbox indicate that its investment in De Bethune might be the first of several such acquisitions. At the same time, the Philadephia-based company announced an expansion of its store network, which currently includes outposts in Dubai (pictured above), Hong Kong, and Singapore. It plans eight new stores in 2022, with five located in the United States, followed by Zurich, Riyadh, and Tokyo.  

A Week On The Wrist: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Hodinkee
Maurice Lacroix Sep 30, 2021

A Week On The Wrist: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver was formally introduced at Baselworld back in 2013, where it won over crowds of journalists with a vintage inspired design just too simple to pass up. As difficult as it is to stand out in the vintage dive watch market, Maruice Lacroix seems to have struck a chord with the Pontos S Diver. Now that the watch has had a chance to settle into the market, we’ve decided to see just how well it’s held up by giving it a week on our wrist.