3,223 articles · 9 videos found · page 83 of 108
Revolution
On a trip to Paris, Wei met with Guillaume Laidet, the architect of recently revived vintage darling, Nivada Grenchen to talk about our first collaboration – a fully black Depthmaster with unique dial markers that resemble the video game character Pac-Man. The original Depthmaster was incredibly well made and depth-rated to 1,000m and our watch […]
Time+Tide
Having produced watches under the names Felca and Felco throughout the 1920s to ‘50s, the brand morphed into the more modern-sounding Titoni in the slick age of the 1960s and ‘70s. Although it’s extremely difficult to find original examples of them that haven’t been refurbished or frankensteined into other parts, the first generations of the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Titoni Airmaster delivers classic vibes and a dial in ‘glacier turquoise’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched to mark 50 years since the original was created by the jeweller’s London workshop, the Cartier Pebble was also perfectly timed to ride the wave of interest in vintage Cartier form watches that began during the pandemic. Looking much like the original but with enough tweaks to set it apart as a modern timepiece, the Pebble reissue is the second commemorative reissue after the Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary from two years ago. With only six large-size Pebbles made by Cartier London in the 1970s, the original Pebble was long a peculiar watch known only to a few Cartier aficionados. The reissue has changed that, but it is a limited edition of only 150 pieces, a small enough number that it will leave some would-be buyers disappointed. Initial thoughts A hair’s larger than the vintage original, the reissue is a smallish watch by modern standards at 36 mm in diameter but feels larger than that due to the form. In fact, 36 mm is probably the largest it can go without changing the shape; any larger and it will resemble a dinner plate. On the wrist it cuts a striking figure and unlike other vintage remakes, the new Pebble might pass for a modern watch thanks to its novel form. Minor adjustment have been made to the design of the reissue that give it a more refined appearance than the original. The Roman numerals, for instance, have tighter lines. The result is a watch that looks thoughtfully designed. Everything about the reissue is executed well, case to dial to cr...
Revolution
Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This double-sided chronograph is powered by the historically significant, Valjoux-based Caliber 7000, one of Franck’s most highly lauded creations. It features a second […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. Watch straps vary widely in their materials, construction, finishing, and even in their original intended usage, with some straps projecting a sense of genteel refinement and others possessing military ruggedness or everyday sportiness. Here is a look at five watch strap types, their origins, and their attributes. Dress Leather Strap The practice of attaching watches to leather straps goes all the way back to the Boer Wars of the late 19th Century, which were fought in South Africa. British soldiers began wearing their pocket watches on crude leather attachments rather than in their jacket pockets because they often needed to doff their jackets and waistcoats in the extreme African heat. By the early 1900s, pioneers like London saddlemaker Alfred Pearson and Swiss watch importers the Dimier brothers were converting pocket watches into wristwatches by soldering wire lugs onto the cases and slipping such leather wristlets through them to secure them to wrists. The style became widespread after World War I, during which military men wore these wristwatches on the battlefield, and entered the realm of high fashion in subsequent years. Leather straps are usually made from calfskin, alligator, or crocodile leather (the latter two generally being associated with a higher level of luxury), but other, more exotic types...
Deployant
Urwerk releases a new collaboration with Cooper Jacoby to reload their original and highly desirable UR-102. Piece unique to be auctioned off.
SJX Watches
Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...
SJX Watches
In a surprising off-season debut, Rolex has debuted the record-setting Deepsea Challenge. Evolved from the experimental dive watch of the same name presented in 2012, the Deepsea Challenge is the first serially-produced Rolex wristwatch in titanium. And its rating of 11,000 m, or 36,090 ft, means it clinches the title of the deepest-rated dive watch ever. Initial thoughts Conceived as “the ultimate watch of the deep”, the Deepsea Challenge has nevertheless “been crafted with everyday use in mind”. In other words it’s gigantic at 50 mm in diameter and over 20 mm thick, but wearable because both the case and bracelet are titanium, making it relatively lightweight. It is tempting to imagine Rolex will roll out other titanium watches, though I expect that won’t happen since the use of the alloy for the Deepsea Challenge is primarily for lightness, something less important for conventionally-sized Rolex watches. As with other Rolex sports watches the technology behind the watch is impressive – in fact the technology within the watch makes it one of the most interesting Rolex sports watches – but it also incorporates details that enthusiasts will appreciate like the chamfered lugs that bring to mind vintage Rolex cases. In short, it’s a little over the top but extremely cool. It’s somewhat pricey at abut 70% more expensive than the standard Deepsea, but arguably worth it for something that is essentially an experimental watch refined into something wearable...
Time+Tide
The Glashütte brand recently introduced a new entry into their affordable Club family with the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37. While this line-up features some of the most affordable models that NOMOS offers, the Club Sport neomatik is a different beast, though its diminutive sizing and simple looks may not suggest so. Through a few … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A certainty after the Zeitwerk Date of 2019 and last year’s Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is finally here. As expected, the new Zeitwerk is a gentle evolution from the original in terms of design, but a substantial step forward in technical terms. Known as the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold, the new Zeitwerk is powered by the same revamped movement L043 movement found in the Date and Lumen. As a result, it has all of same upgrades, namely a thinner movement that boasts a quickset corrector for the hours as well as a 72-hour power reserve. The new Zeitwerk in pink gold And the second-generation L043.6 Initial thoughts In a technical sense, the new Zeitwerk is a superior watch, as it should be, coming 13 years after the original. Aesthetically, it remains largely unchanged save for a few nips and tucks, leaving the new model instantly recognisable as a Zeitwerk. In fact, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two generations from across a room. The second generation (left) and its predecessor In the metal the new Zeitwerk looks and feels very much like the original upon initial examination. But the differences quickly become obvious, even though some, like the enlarged seconds, are subtle enough they are difficult to pinpoint. Other tweaks are easier to spot, like the red marking on the power reserve scale. Personally I’m not a fan of the red accent since it creates a peculiar f...
Time+Tide
Laco are phenomenally popular with Flieger wearers as they’re one of the affordable brands to have made those original pilot’s watches during WWII. Now, the brand are as strong as ever and have branched out significantly from what could be considered their staple. The Laco Scorpion is a new extension to their Squad Watch collection … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Earlier in the year at Watches & Wonders 2022, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud gave Wei a preview of the first two watches that make up the third collection to be added to the brand’s product family, the FB 3. While less complicated than the original FB 1 that relaunched the brand in […]
Time+Tide
Racing watches are some of the most desirable and historically significant models that have ever been released. While tool watches meant for the military and divers have mostly lost their original purpose, the exhilarating themes and overt extravagance of a racing chronograph is still as relevant to motorsport today as it was in the 1960s. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020. Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case. Initial thoughts Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape. The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price. The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach. Sometimes known as the “baseball” The Pebble belongs to the group of oddl...
SJX Watches
Admired for its quality of engineering and finishing, A. Lange & Söhne is bringing Glashütte to Asia with a pair of exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong. The events will showcase the brand’s watches – including important historical models no longer in the catalogue like the Zeitwerk Luminous – as well as the brand’s most important complications like the constant-force mechanism. The Mechanical Masters takes place from October 27-30 in Singapore (sign up here), while Devoted to the Highest Standards in Hong Kong happens from October 25-31 in Hong Kong (sign up here). At the Singapore event, Lange’s technical excellence will be personified with live demonstrations of watchmaking, engraving, and other crafts required to complete a watch. The four-day event in Singapore will be fronted by two gentlemen from Glashütte: Robert Hoffmann, the chief watchmaker for the Zeitwerk department, and Robert Arnold, an artisan-engraver who will demonstrate the art of engraving the balance cock. A familiar face for anyone who’s attended past Lange events, Robert Hoffmann Event information Both events are open to the public, however, registration is required to attend. Singapore – The Mechanical Masters – 10:00 am-9:00 pm, October 27-30 ION Orchard 2 Orchard Turn Singapore 238801 Register for the Singapore event Hong Kong – Devoted to the Highest Standards – 10:00 am-7:30 pm, October 25-31 Landmark Atrium 15 Queen’s Road Central Central Hong Kong Regist...
Hodinkee
Ten percent off, site-wide. The 10 best videos we've ever published. And, oh yeah, 10 pre-owned Rolex watches at their original retail price.
Time+Tide
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is certainly among the more recognisable watch designs out there, I’d even venture as far as calling it iconic. I’m sure that most of you are already familiar with its origin story, so I won’t bore you with a history lesson. It should suffice to say that the original 1931 design was … ContinuedThe post Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Think you can top Gérald Genta's original? Now's your chance.
SJX Watches
After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...
Revolution
Eléonor speaks with Rado CEO, Adrian Bosshard and internationally-renowned, multi award-winning product designer, Alfredo Häberli at the launch of the 60th Anniversary editions of the Rado DiaStar. The original DiaStar was futuristic in its design and groundbreaking in its use of advanced materials, and the 60th Anniversary editions pay homage to that spirit by incorporating […]
Time+Tide
This week, both Luke and I made the journey to Switzerland to get hands-on with some exciting, new releases. With a case shaped like a flying saucer, the Rado DiaStar Original always wore its 1960s heritage very conspicuously indeed. Made from tungsten carbide, the DiaStar ushered in a new era of material experimentation in the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Going wild with Norqain and reimagining a ’60s classic with Rado… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When Omega’s eye turned towards their 1957 trilogy of sports watches, the reissued vintage watch trend was sky-high, but not yet at its peak. The last few years have seen brands like Omega perfecting the art of the retro, figuring out which elements needed updating and which ones were best kept in their original state. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Lange 1 from German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne is an internationally recognized icon of modern watchmaking and the undisputed flagship of the Glashütte-based manufacture’s collection. And even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994, the watch, and the company that makes it, trace their roots much further into history. From the pioneering watchmaker who jump-started a national industry in the 19th century, to his descendant that forged a new beginning for his family business in the 20th, to the evolution of a legendary watch into new and complex forms in the 21st, this the story of A. Lange & Söhne and the Lange 1. Ferdinand Adolph Lange & the Rebirth of Glashütte Few in the long history of watchmaking have had a more profound and lasting impact on a nation’s horological destiny than Ferdinand Adolph Lange had on that of Germany, whose industry is famously rooted in the town of Glashütte in Saxony. It was Lange (1815 - 1875), a native of nearby Dresden and a classically trained master watchmaker, who laid the foundations on which the struggling former mining town would build itself into Germany’s watchmaking center with the establishment of the original A. Lange & Cie. manufactory in 1845. Lange’s vision was not just for his own company but for the entire state of Saxony. When the apprentices that trained at his company had mastered their craft, he encouraged them to start their own factories and hire and train their own employees...
SJX Watches
A “concept” store for high-end watches when it first opened in 2005, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) closed its original location in the now-closed Hilton hotel in 2019. Three years on, Singapore retailer Sincere is reviving SHH at the city state’s landmark casino resort. To commemorate the event, SHH has unveiled several limited editions created in collaboration with independent watchmakers led by the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition. A watch with twin balance wheels linked by a differential, the SHH edition is housed in the streamlined “Convexe” case that defines the Greubel Forsey’s sports watches. But unlike the brand’s sports watches to date, this is striking in an ultra-contemporary purple livery that’s uncommon for such a complicated watch. The rationale behind the juxtaposition of bold colours and refined complications is straightforward according to Sincere chief executive Ong Ban. “For the new generation, watches go with their dress and the younger ones want… [watches] that go with sneakers or hoodies,” explains Mr Ong, “But while the cosmetics evolve over the years, but the essence of finely executed movements remains the same.” Even the titanium main plate of the movement is finished in purple Initial thoughts The new Double Balancier is a haute horlogerie sports watch in an eye-catching colour and the requisite integrated strap that will no doubt draw a new audience to the brand. While Greubel Forsey (GF) wat...
SJX Watches
With edgy decor that set it apart from a typical luxury-watch store of the period, the inaugural Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore’s Hilton hotel was one of the world’s first “concept” stores dedicated to high-end mechanical watches when it opened in 2005. After a run of well over a decade, the original SHH store closed in 2019, but the format has now made a comeback at Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino complex. Located along a stretch of the mall dominated by watch and jewellery brands, the new SHH once again focuses on niche and independent brands. Its stable of brands total 19 and include Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and Ferdinand Berthoud. Reboot and revive Being amongst the first retailers in the world to offer brands that were then just startups but would go on to do great things – Sincere took on Franck Muller in 1992, Lange in 1995, Panerai in 1998, and F.P. Journe in 2000 – SHH was a logical progression of Sincere’s retail strategy in the early 2000s. “[SHH in Hilton] was meant to be a touch point for very fine mechanical watches and high end brands,” says long-serving Sincere chief executive Ong Ban, “At the same time, it was also a launchpad for what we thought were the future stars of the industry.” Projects like the first SHH helped established Sincere as one of the three biggest watch retailers in Southeast Asia, alongside Cortina Watch and The Hour Glass. But after several changes in ownership, S...
Time+Tide
Finally! Look, I have always felt the Pelagos is one of the strongest dive watches on the market. But, afflicted with slender wrist syndrome, the size, while it could work for my wrist, was not optimal. While many enjoy the original 42mm Pelagos, and for good reason, others have shared my sentiment – the people … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
For Geneva Watch Week 2022, Jacob & Co released a new Epic X, redesigned for a more stronger and even more sporty look than the original.
SJX Watches
Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko 5 watch series traces its roots all the way back to 1963, when the Japanese mega-brand introduced the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define the vast collection today. These include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the watches run the gamut from dress pieces to field watches to divers, with all kinds of variations in between (the current shorthand descriptions are Sense, Specialist, Sports, Suits, and Street). Seiko 5 watches still adhere to those five principles initially laid out more than half a century ago while still retaining the famously inexpensive price points that have made them so desirable - from under $100 to the neighborhood of $500 for the more exclusive editions. Seiko 5 watches - rebranded in the collection’s relaunch in 2019 as Seiko 5 Sports, despite offering this diversity of styles - have a worldwide fan following, with many JDM (Japan Direct Market) models highly sought after by American collectors due to their scarcity. And for many a budding watch collector of modest means, a Seiko 5 watch is the gateway drug to a full-blown timepiece obsession. Here we spotlight some of our favorites. SRPC65 “Bottlecap” Reference: SRPC65, Price: $150-$250, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug-to-L...
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