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REVIEW:  IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 In A Beautiful Obsidian Black WatchAdvice
IWC  Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 Feb 7, 2025

REVIEW:  IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 In A Beautiful Obsidian Black

The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is a stunning embodiment of luxury and timeless style, drawing its roots from the heritage of the iconic Reference 325 model. In this review, I explore one of the most striking colour combinations to fully appreciate what makes this timepiece stand out. What We Love The black obsidian dial perfectly complements the 18k 5N gold case ideally sized to suit even small wrists A timeless design that references the original Prortugieser Reference 325. What We Don’t With a case thickness of 12.4mm, the watch’s water resistance of 30m seems too little. The lack of a date window may deter those who want a dress watch with this feature. Sixty seconds constant sub-counter needs to be a few shades darker to more closely match with the dial. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Portugieser line has to be my favourite from IWC Schaffhausen, with its elegant and refined aesthetics complementing the sporty side. Previously, I had the chance to wear and test out the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 with the sliver-plated dial, and I certainly enjoyed my time with it! Before I had the chance to do the review, however, I was already a fan of the Automatic 42, especially its bi-counter layout displaying the power reserve and constant seconds. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 on Chamath’s wrist W...

First Look – The new Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Monochrome
Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Feb 4, 2025

First Look – The new Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

Piaget’s luxury sports watch, the Polo, is inspired by the brand’s iconic solid gold 1979 Polo quartz model with horizontal gadroons running across the dial and the integrated bracelet. Revamped from head to toe in 2016 in steel with mechanical movements, the Polo family is represented by complications small and large, from time and date […]

Raymond Weil Introduces the Millesime Shellman Edition SJX Watches
Breguet numeral Jan 28, 2025

Raymond Weil Introduces the Millesime Shellman Edition

Japanese retailer Shellman has given Raymond Weil’s vintage-inspired Millesime a gentle makeover with the Millesime Centre Seconds Shellman Limited Edition. While staying faithful to the original in overall style, the Shellman edition incorporates numerous subtle tweaks that reflect the detail-oriented approach of Japanese watch enthusiasts. The Shellman edition features a domed, “sector” dial with a two-tone “champagne gold” finish with a single Breguet numeral at 12 o’clock. But more notable is the case, which resembles the standard version on its face, but is actually thinner at just 9.25 mm, giving the watch a surprisingly slim profile. Initial thoughts In keeping with Shellman’s past limited editions, the new Millesime is vintage inspired and thoughtfully designed. Though it resembles the standard models in many ways, the Shellman edition is substantively different in several key respects, including with the two-tone, domed dial and thinner case. These refinements enhance the vintage flavour of the watch, and also give it better proportions. However, the typography for the brand name and “Automatic” is identical to that of the standard model. While the modern font doesn’t have the same vintage feel as the rest of the design, the print is in dark grey and less prominent. The Shellman edition is priced at JPY308,000 with taxes, or around US$1,950, which is about the same as the standard model. With its greater appeal and limited numbers, it is an ea...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription Fratello
Daniel Roth Jan 22, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription

Just about one year ago, Daniel Roth presented the finished Tourbillon Souscription watch in yellow gold. After announcing the return of the Daniel Roth brand in March 2023, the Tourbillon Souscription was the first project and a nod to the debut model (Tourbillon ref. C187) from Daniel Roth’s watch brand in 1989. Now, after releasing […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription to read the full article.

TAG Heuer’s Stand-Out Carrera Gains a Speedometer-Style Dial SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Stand-Out Carrera Gains Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer’s Stand-Out Carrera Gains a Speedometer-Style Dial

Arguably TAG Heuer’s most interesting affordable chronograph, the Carrera Chronosprint features a unique variable-speed chronograph seconds that accelerates for the first 15 seconds of every elapsed minute, before slowing to complete the remainder of the 60 seconds. Now TAG Heuer has introduced a new pair of variants in partnership with Porsche: the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye that’s available in either steel or yellow gold. The new model sports a black dial modelled on the dash of the 1965 Porsche 911 that bears the traditional “Carrera” emblem at 12 o’clock. Initial thoughts The Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye demonstrates TAG Heuer’s strength in affordable chronographs. In technical terms, it’s the brand’s best chronograph in this price segment. The case is little large for my preference, but that’s typical of the current Carrera due to the thickness of the TH20 in-house movement. Although I am typically indifferent to brand partnerships - they are more often than not simply for marketing buzz - this particular collaboration makes sense given TAG Heuer’s historical presence in motorsports, which it has just returned to starting with the 2025 Formula 1 season. Retailing at US$10,250 in steel and US$24,600 in yellow gold, the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye is pricier than the base-model Carrera “Glassbox” by a margin of about 50%. While that might seem a lot, the uncharge US$3,000 or so is worth it given the TH20-08 “...

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription SJX Watches
Blancpain Jan 21, 2025

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription

Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...

Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial Fratello
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Jan 20, 2025

Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial

Thirteen years after the introduction of the 43mm L.U.C Lunar One, a smaller, more refined update debuts this year in two variations. The rose or white gold case now measures 40.5mm across, and the redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One comes with a blue or salmon dial. The name of the watch doesn’t quite cover the […] Visit Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial to read the full article.

Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Jan 17, 2025

Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple

Breitling’s latest take on its signature aviator’s chronograph is the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Cortina Watch, a limited edition for the Singapore-based retailer. The 50-piece run retains the classic Navitimer design featuring the hallmark slide rule bezel, but with a striking dial in satiné translucid purple, essentially translucent lacquer. The purple dial is matched with red gold appliqués that include the Breitling emblem, contrasting against the dial’s vibrant hue. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest offering is one of many (maybe too many) dial variations within the Navitimer collection, such as the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions and the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”, but it’s distinctive for the vivid dial colour that is seldom used by Breitling. Admittedly, the colour is hardly traditional for a pilot’s watch, but it is appealing and refreshes the familiar Navitimer look. This edition is based on the 43 mm model, which some might find too big. The 41 mm Navitimer, which is also identical in size to the vintage original, is more wearable. The new Navitimer is priced at S$13,980 (equivalent to about US$10,000), which is comparable to the regular production version. Given the high-spec, in-house chronograph movement, the Navitimer B01 is reasonably priced. Even though the limited editions are arguably too numerous, this edition manages to stand out. Exquisite movement Dial colour aside, the Cortina edition is identical to the standar...

Review: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jan 13, 2025

Review: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel

First launched in 18k yellow gold a little over two years ago, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 finally debuts in stainless steel. Sticking to the familiar vintage-remake template established by the gold model, the 222 retains the familiar “bottle cap” bezel and applied Maltese cross emblem, but in brushed steel. Like the gold model, the 222 “Jumbo” in steel is executed to a high level of fit and finish – certainly superior to that of the vintage original – and it’s presented in the classic livery of a matte blue dial (great) and faux-vintage lume (not so much). More importantly, the steel 222 substantially more affordable than the gold version, about half as expensive in fact. Initial thoughts The 222 in gold was well received at launch in 2022; it helped that the roll-out took place when integrated bracelet sports watches were all the rage. That success made the steel version a certainty. Vacheron Constantin (VC) took a little longer than I expected to unveil the steel 222, but now it’s finally here. The watch is, admittedly, predictable. It has all of the familiar elements found in the vintage originals and then the gold reissue. But it is still appealing, because the quality of execution is high and the proportions of the watch are good. Compare this to a vintage 222 and the improvement in build quality, particularly of the bracelet, is immediately obvious. Although the steel 222 is compact by modern standards, it has the refined quality of a con...

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year SJX Watches
Breguet Combines Engraving Lacquer Jan 10, 2025

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year

To celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, Breguet has done something adventurous with its typically formal dress watch. Created to mark the upcoming Year of the Snake, the Classique 7145 “Snake” is still ultra-thin and time-only, but features a solid gold dial bearing a stylised serpent motif realised with a combination of guilloché and engraving, with translucent green lacquer for colour. Initial thoughts The new Classique has been masterfully reworked to give it an entirely different look that departs entirely from the traditional silvered engine-turning that is a Breguet signature. For fans of Breguet’s old-school aesthetic, this is probably too far from tradition, but for someone seeking something different, this might strike a chord. Aesthetics aside, the guilloché and engraving entail a higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary engine-turned dials. In fact, the snake dial is arguably more complex and refined in technique than the dial on last year’s Dragon edition. The dial complexity is reflected in the price of US$74,600, which is substantially more than the basic time-only Classique, but on par with prevailing retail prices for metiers d’art dials. Exquisite dial work The Classique “Snake” is all about the dial, which highlights the art of engraving, guilloche, and miniature painting. The engraving employs a bas-relief technique that gives the snake a sculptural form. The motif is first sketched and then sculpted by a skilled artisan using chisels...

Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph Fratello
Tissot PR516 Automatic Valjoux Chronograph Jan 10, 2025

Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph

Tissot is expanding its PR516 collection with new chronograph models. Two quartz versions in PVD rose gold and bicolor and one stainless steel model with an automatic chronograph movement will join the lineup. The latter is based on a Valjoux A05 movement, an update of the famous Valjoux 7753. It’s this full-steel model with automatic […] Visit Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph to read the full article.

The Longines Conquest Heritage in Red Dégradé SJX Watches
Longines Conquest Heritage Jan 7, 2025

The Longines Conquest Heritage in Red Dégradé

Ordinarily a faithful vintage remake with an old-school aesthetic, the Conquest Heritage gets a makeover for the Chinese Lunar New Year. The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake stands out with a striking red gradient dial featuring gold-plated hands and indices. And for the occasion, the back bears an engraved snake motif penned by Chinese contemporary artist Wu Jian’an, who drew inspiration from the ancient Chinese fable, “Legend of the White Snake”. Initial thoughts The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake offers something more modern and striking, instead of the conservative look of the standard model that has a silver or black dial. I particularly like the fact that the snake motif is limited to an engraving on the case back, as having it on the dial would have been overly ornate. It’s priced at US$3,150, almost exactly the same as the regular production model, which makes it a decent value proposition. It has a workmanlike quality appropriate for the price, while the high-spec ETA movement inside is one of its strengths. And like other zodiac-theme watches, this would have resonance for those born in the Year of the Snake a meaningful way to commemorate the occasion, not unlike wearing a birthstone. Vintage inspired The snake edition is identical to the standard model save for the dial and case back engraving. Water resistant to 50 m, the stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter, 10.7 mm in thickness, and entirely polished. It’s slightly larger than the ori...

Haim Jumps into the Stone Dial Trend with a Striking New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2024

Haim Jumps into the Stone Dial Trend with a Striking New Limited Edition

I had the opportunity to meet Zakir Miah, the founder of Chicago-based Haim Watch Co., at a timepiece-related event in Canada this past September. Before that, I had only admired his watches online, and I was especially drawn to the L2 Chronograph, which features a pink gold dial with blued hands and numerals. Zakir was gracious and patient enough to walk me through his entire lineup despite the line of people waiting to chat with him. It took nearly all my willpower to walk away without purchasing one. One of their most popular collections is the Legacy Automatic, a custom-built timepiece designed to order. This model marks several milestones for the brand, including its first custom-designed HWC-1 automatic movement based on ETA architecture assembled in the United States. Each watch is crafted specifically for the buyer. The Legacy Automatic has a hand-finished titanium TA2 (commercially pure grade 2) case with a coin-edge bezel and exhibition case back. Today, Haim is launching a new limited edition Legacy to celebrate their second collaboration with WatchesArabized x OPTO WATCH CO. This edition, named the Arabized (Al-Nimer), which translates to “The Tiger,” will feature a dial made of Tiger’s Eye stone. Tiger’s Eye is a chatoyant gemstone, typically classified as a metamorphic rock, recognized for its golden to red-brown color and silky luster. As part of the quartz group, its distinctive appearance is created through the intergrowth of quartz crystals and al...

Hands-On With The Elusive Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In RLX Titanium Fratello
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Dec 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Elusive Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In RLX Titanium

When you squint, you can see the original 1992 yellow gold Yacht-Master in the 2023 stealthy titanium version. But the elusive Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium must be seen with eyes wide open because this is not a watch you see every day. Indeed, this monochromatic “Super Sub” is a hard-to-find exotic watch with […] Visit Hands-On With The Elusive Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In RLX Titanium to read the full article.

Hands On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk – Luxury Personified WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 18, 2024

Hands On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk – Luxury Personified

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is possibly one of the coolest “digital” display watches out there, so why not hit the streets of Sydney to see how this unique model from the Saxony brand wears in everyday life? What We Love The uniqueness of the digital time display Amazing movement finishing The size and proportions to suit a range of wrists What We Don’t It is probably not an everyday watch for many people being 18k gold The digital time may not be for everyone It isn’t a piece that everyone can afford Overall Score: 9.1 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 It’s no secret that A. Lange & Söhne makes impeccable watches. In fact, calling them watches is almost sacrilege as they really should be referred to as timepieces, or as I like to think of them, mechanical works of art! In all honesty, it’s very hard to fault any pieces from A. Lange & Söhne – they are one brand that puts so much emphasis on perfection that every piece they make is almost that, perfect. From the way they finish the movements, to the cases, to the double assembly. Each piece of the approximately 5,000 they make each year is as close to perfect as you can get in a watch, to the point where what makes any one of their pieces not perfect is personal preference really. Do I like this design, this style and the size for my wrist? Their prices are also on the higher end, so depending on your means, they may be out of reach, but I’d say thi...

Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black Worn & Wound
Casio Casiotron All Black 1974 Dec 6, 2024

Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black

1974. The year that launched Skylab 4, The Godfather Part II, and the very first Casio digital watch. Fifty years later, Casio has relaunched the Casiotron for the modern era. With updated sizing, a sleek black and gold color scheme, and a vintage Casiotron logo at 6:00, it’s a bold statement with retro styling to match. The Casio solar quartz 3542 module packs in all the features enthusiasts have come to expect from the brand, a whole suite of features including an alarm, automatic calendar, and world time zone tracker. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. 1974. The year that launched Skylab 4, The Godfather Part II, and the very first Casio digital watch. Fifty years later, Casio has relaunched the Casiotron for the modern era. With updated sizing, a sleek black and gold color scheme, and a vintage Casiotron logo at 6:00, it’s a bold statement with retro styling to match. The Casio solar quartz 3542 module packs in all the features enthusiasts have come to expect from the brand, a whole suite of features including an alarm, automatic calendar, and world time zone tracker. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black appeare...

Hands-On: the Jacques Bianchi JB300 Worn & Wound
Nov 26, 2024

Hands-On: the Jacques Bianchi JB300

Last week, Jacques Bianchi released what is probably their most boring watch in recent memory, and the results speak for themselves. Compared to many of the brand’s recent releases, the new Jacques Bianchi JB300 is inarguably their most conventional, forfeiting many of the details that helped set the many iterations of the JB200 apart. But in that simplicity there’s magic, and this latest entry in the Jacques Bianchi catalog is a strong new addition to the military-inspired dive watch category, offering collectors a rock-solid option at a fantastic value. Put simply, the JB300 is a classic military diver in the truest sense, while still managing to hold onto a little bit of the dramatic flair we’ve come to expect from a brand that typically decorates their dials with divers and cephalopods. The JB300 draws the bulk of its inspiration from the original JB300, an early ‘90s dive watch issued by the French Army to combat divers. While not an exact 1-to-1 reproduction of that watch, which seems to have been produced in extremely limited quantities (less than 1000 by most counts), the new JB300 is a very close facsimile. Jacques Bianchi has done a good job updating the original JB300 for a modern audience though, toying with the specifics of both dial and case to bring them more comfortably into the 21st century. Part of this was likely dictated by necessity. A cursory search will find that most vintage examples of the JB300 feature the symbol for l’Armée de Terre (t...