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IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production Time+Tide
Doxa Army are back Aug 29, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production

When Doxa released a ceramic limited edition of their legendary Army watch with Watches of Switzerland, we all knew it would be a matter of time before this thrilling design would be made available to the masses. While it’s expected that some production models will modernise reissues to some extent, the Doxa Army offers the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Aug 18, 2022

HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever?

Green, green, oh… green. In 2021, green was the undisputed colour of the year with every watch manufacture under the sun presenting a design in the hue. Sure, you can’t go wrong with a black or white dial – their versatility is unmatched. But collectors need colour to liven up their watch boxes, and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph Aug 17, 2022

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury

Parmigiani Fleurier’s approach to design has taken a minimalist turn of late, most notably with the Tonda PF collection. Nevertheless, as a maker of luxury sports watches, they’re still striving to find ways to implement that athletic aesthetic into their pieces, and the ones we had the pleasure of looking at here give a great … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Strawberry & Cream SJX Watches
Studio Underd0g Aug 15, 2022

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Strawberry & Cream

A watch designer by profession, Richard Benc started Studio Underd0g in early 2020 during the lockdown in London, having previously designed watches for Braun, the German consumer goods maker famed for its shavers and industrial design. His brand got its start with a series of affordable mechanical chronographs defined by a quirky aesthetic, including examples modelled on the colours of watermelon and mint-chocolate chip ice cream. Now Studio Underd0g has taken the covers off its latest two-counter chronograph, Strawberries & Cream. Inspired by the colours of the eponymous desert, the watch was born from chance meeting from Miguel Seabra, a Portuguese journalist specialising in tennis and watches. A fan of Studio Underd0g from its inception, Mr Seabra and the brand’s founder shared a joke last year about the perfect dessert while watching tennis in summer, resulting in this edition. Initial thoughts While salmon is a fad, mechanical watches for men in bright pink are uncommon, which immediately sets Strawberries & Cream apart from its competitors. Admittedly this not the first pink dial from Studio Underd0g – the first was the Watermelon watch in bright green and pink – but this is arguably the more appealing since the colours simple go better together while being more wearable. The price-to-quality ratio of the Strawberries & Cream is good. The watch gets most things right. Both the case and dial are basic but interesting nonetheless, while the movement is a gentl...

New: Kurono Calendrier Type 1 is already sold out! We explore why. Deployant
Kurono Tokyo s latest drop Aug 13, 2022

New: Kurono Calendrier Type 1 is already sold out! We explore why.

The new release marks Kurono's success once again in textbook execution of a product launch. It begins with a great design, good pricing and finishes with great marketing. Riding on Hajime's popularity, the brand story benefits from the watchmaker's credibility. The design is classic and accessible, with finishing that is a bar above most in its segment. It also benefits from finding a niche in the USD1-4k segment, in a non-mass production vertical. Its limited production possibly limited by assembly and manufacturing capacity works ironically in its favor, to create scarcity.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5226G Continuing Aug 11, 2022

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G

Continuing the brand’s well-known intentions to liven up the Calatrava, Patek Philippe unveiled a brand-new take on its quintessential dress watch at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, the Calatrava ref. 5226G-01. The ref. 5226G indicates where the Calatrava line is going – more contemporary design, albeit still informed by vintage models hence the faux vintage lume, which is enhanced with sharper and higher quality detailing. Despite an entry-level watch of sorts (despite a substantial price tag), the ref. 5226G is nonetheless elaborately executed. The hobnail decoration found on last year’s ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”, for instance, has been repurposed and applied to the case band. The dial gets a pronounced grained finish And the case a clous de Paris decoration Initial thoughts I first encountered the ref. 5226G in larger-than-life format when it appeared on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders. The scale of the projection meant the patterned dial and hobnail case were instantly obvious. Though unexpected elements in an entry-level Patek Philippe, they work well together, both on screen and in real life. Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2022 with its oversized digital display. Image – Watches & Wonders When I tried on the watch during the fair, my positive impression was reinforced. Even though the ref. 5226G is a combination of elements not usually put together, it is compelling and appealing in the metal. ...

Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aug 10, 2022

Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon

It’s the tail-end of the 1980s, and you and your stockbroker buddies are ripping down the Autobahn in the two fastest cars in the world – the Ferrari F40 and Porsche 959. Suddenly, you notice a flash of yellow in your rear-view mirror, which disappears in front of you as quickly as it appeared behind. … ContinuedThe post Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide City Watch Buying Guide – Paris Time+Tide
Aug 4, 2022

Time+Tide City Watch Buying Guide – Paris

Paris has many flattering nicknames from the “City of Love” to “the Fashion Capital”, and while it’s thoroughly earned both of those monikers, it should also be known for its important milestones in horology and design. From 18th century innovations to modern trendsetting, Paris is a central hub in watchmaking that could even rival some … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide City Watch Buying Guide – Paris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100 SJX Watches
Aug 2, 2022

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100

One of G-Shock’s biggest hits in recent years, the octagonal 2100 series appears to be a new design (or one derived from a famous watch reated by Gerald Genta), but is in fact an adaptation of the first G-Shock from 1983, the DW-5000C. Both the 2100 and DW-5000C share an eight-sided bezel, but the bezel of the 1983 watch was an irregular octagon while the 2100 is a regular octagon. Debuted in all-resin and followed by a version in a mix of metal and resin, the 2100 series was never available in metal from end to end until now. The Japanese watchmaker has just taken the covers off an all-steel iteration, the Full-Metal GM-B2100, available in black coating, rose gold plating, and steel. Initial thoughts The original 2100 in colorful resin is a appealing, affordable watch, explaining its popularity. Perhaps part of the appeal is its similarity to the Royal Oak, but there are other reasons that distinguish it from the countless G-Shocks variations, one being its compact dimensions and resulting comfort on the wrist. Now it gets even better with a metal bracelet. Due to the aggressive fluting on the case sides along with the dimples on the bracelet links, the watch has an industrial or military feel, which is perfectly suited to the robust nature of a G-Shock. Ironically, my favorite of the trio is the rose gold-plated version. Besides being an uncommon finish for watches in this price range, there’s a sense of humour in its passing resemblance to a rose gold Royal Oak. The...

HANDS ON: Jet, set, go with the Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer in black DLC Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer Aug 1, 2022

HANDS ON: Jet, set, go with the Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer in black DLC

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo tends to steal the limelight a fair bit, seemingly making headlines whenever a new version is released. The Octo Roma may not garner the same amount of attention or record-breaking mentions, but it’s an equally important range for those who may prefer a slightly more restrained design language and something with a … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Jet, set, go with the Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer in black DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Jul 22, 2022

VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch

Previously, the Speake-Marin catalogue was limited to dressier timepieces outfitted on straps. Recently, however, Speake-Marin unveiled their first foray into the immensely popular integrated stainless-steel sports category with their new Ripples design. The 50 metre water-resistant stainless-steel case effectively presents a large circular dial within a cushion format. While 40.3mm in diameter, because the dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive Time+Tide
Mido Jul 22, 2022

The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive

Due to a market saturated with great pieces that evoke the times of yesteryear, you’ve no short of options when it comes to a vintage-styled dive watch, regardless of budget. The Mido Ocean Star Tribute slots in towards the value-oriented end of the spectrum, all the while offering a design that’s directly derived from past … ContinuedThe post The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Jul 19, 2022

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...

Rune Bakkendorff Introduces the Moonwork Pendulum Clock SJX Watches
Rado xically it Jul 15, 2022

Rune Bakkendorff Introduces the Moonwork Pendulum Clock

The result of a collaboration between a Danish clockmaker and design studio , the Moonwork is a tall, sculptural clock that stands almost two meters high. It’s an old-school pendulum clock in function but entirely contemporary in expression, from the thin, minimalist frame to the clever time display without hands. Danish clockmaker Rune Bakkendorff worked together with fellow Danes of design studio Ahm&Lund; to create the clock, which made its debut late last year at the Cabinetmakers Autumn Exhibit 2021, a Scandinavian furniture fair that took place in Copenhagen. The Moonwork at the furniture exhibition. Photo – Scandinaviandesign.com Initial thoughts A thoughtfully designed object, the Moonwork is attractive on several levels. At first glance, it is slender, simplistic, and hardly resembling a clock save for the pendulum. But paradoxically it is a clock, making the featureless time display is immediately intriguing. It is a clock, but not quite. The Moonwork does away with the conventional telling of the time and instead displays the lunar cycle – the moon phase is projected onto the white porcelain dome that forms the dial. An impractical but beautiful solution, this makes the Moonwork more of a sculpture that indicates the passing of the time. Remove the white porcelain dome and the entirely mechanical workings of the clock are revealed, although moon phase projection relies hundreds of LED bulbs that are hidden behind a silver sphere that rotates slowly to ca...

Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Birch family Evolution 9 Jul 12, 2022

Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family

Evolution 9 represents a new era of design for Grand Seiko, pushing the envelope both externally and internally. The most prolific Evolution 9 design is the SLGH005 “White Birch”, but since 2021 the Grand Seiko Birch family has rapidly grown – expanding into new materials, movements and dial colours. So, here is an overview of … ContinuedThe post Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Jul 7, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium

A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...

A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Orange Diver TAG Heuer Jul 7, 2022

A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver

TAG Heuer has not been shy about taking plenty of inspiration from their back catalogue and integrating it into their new releases. Rather than just rehashing the same old design, however, they’ve always brought something new and/or improved to the table. We first saw this with the Tribute to Ref. 844, as the same iconic … ContinuedThe post A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Jul 5, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...

Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Jul 4, 2022

Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Review

What we love: Great colour combinations are available, our pick is the green dial A watch you can buy now, no waitlists Legibility and dial design and layout and good-looking movement through the caseback What we don’t love: The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may find the push-button clasp dig into the underside of the wristSome may find the lugs to protrude on the leather and aid in wearing large Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/ 10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 RAYMOND WEIL is one of the few mainstream watch brands that are still independent and family-owned. So it is no surprise that they have re-invigorated their flagship Freelancer line and taken it up a notch for their 2022 release of the new Freelancer Chronograph 7741 line. I had the privilege of going hands-on with the new releases; the black and white  ‘Panda’ on both steel bracelet and black leather strap, the two-tone with Rose Gold on the brown strap, and a striking green dial and bezel with silver Tri-Compax dials on the green leather strap. Young in Age, but Mature in Nature RAYMOND WEIL is a young brand in terms of watchmaking. Compared to other brands that have their roots put down in the 1800s and in some cases, late 1700s, this makes RAYMOND WEIL, born in 1976, a horological child in age (so to speak!) RAYMOND WEIL is known for style and being heavily aligned to music, and looking at RAYMOND WEIL watches, you’d be forgiv...

The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises Jun 22, 2022

The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs

Grand Seiko has found success in modernising their back catalogue, taking case design cues from the 1967 original 44GS and powering them by their latest movement technology. As the fifth instalment in the 55th anniversary of the 44GS series, the Grand Seiko SBGP017 continues this trend, though it brings previously seen elements together in fresh … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 Now Jun 15, 2022

Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic

A brand that made its debut just last year, Furlan Marri is all about affordable watches with retro style – just like many of its peers that entered the business around the same time. But the brand manages to set itself apart with a keen sense for design and details, something that was evident in its inaugural model, a quartz chronograph modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Now the brand unveils something that’s arguably more compelling, the Reference 2116-A “Black Sector”. Once again vintage in style with compact proportions, the “Black Sector” is however automatic. Initial thoughts My first impression of the Reference 2116-A was positive. The styling is appealing and it is well priced, despite being a major step-up from the quartz chronograph in terms of case quality and the movement. In fact, the 2116-A is very well priced. It costs about US$1,250 but brings along fancy features such as artfully finished “cow horn” lugs, which is typically found on more expensive watches or actual vintage watches. At the same time, the watch is replete with retro details that collectors will like. That includes a properly proportioned dial where everything is laid out just nice, in contrast to many modern-day “sector” dial that can appear sparse. And the Breguet numerals may not be original or novel, but they are pleasing. As appealing as it is, the 2116-A still has a few shortcomings, at least for me personally. One is the wide cover for the central boss of th...

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price Time+Tide
Jun 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price

To be honest, there’s no shortage of racing-inspired chronographs in the world. The inherent link between motorsports and watchmaking essentially guarantees that brands will leap on that theme for design, with elements of high-precision engineering and timing-based supremacy binding the two worlds together. So, with the popular genre so saturated, what do the young French … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2022

The best women’s watches of 2022 so far…

There was a time when a women’s watch could be spotted from a mile away. Unnecessary diamonds, pretentious numerals, overpriced quartz movements and generally lazy design are all hallmarks of the stereotypical “ladies” watch. However, recent years are showing a long-awaited era of exploration from brands who have finally decided to respect feminine diversity. The … ContinuedThe post The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.