Results for Proprietary Gold Alloys

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Ref 3843/1 Oct 1, 2023

The Bespoke Patek Philippe Ref. 3843/1 with a 13-Carat Diamond Crystal Reemerges

One of the most intriguing Patek Philippe wristwatches is once again coming up for sale at auction, eight years after it was last sold publicly. Made in 1990 for a Japanese client, the Patek Philippe ref. 3843/1 has a 13.43-carat diamond as its crystal – a large, flat cut also known as a lasque diamond – and is an entirely one-of-a-kind wristwatch with its own singular reference number. As we explained in our 2016 story detailing the watch the first time it was sold (which seems like a lifetime ago in watch collecting), the ref. 3843/1 came about in the early 1990s when a Japanese client handed over the 13.43-carat lasque diamond to Patek Philippe with a request to mount it onto a watch. The watch was completed in 1991 and then sold to the client in 1994. Image – Christie’s Originating in India, lasque diamonds are flat, wide, and irregular in form. They were historically employed to cover miniature portraits and are also known as portrait-cut diamonds. Here the lasque diamond forms the crystal, which camouflages the fact that it is a diamond. Only the facetted edges and tiny inclusions are a giveaway that the crystal is a diamond. Case in white gold and matched with a fine-link bracelet, the ref. 3843/1 was built around the lasque diamond, explaining the unusual triangular case form. The case is about 32 mm by 26 mm at its widest, making it larger than most watches of its era, though relatively small by modern standards. Christie’s photos of the ref. 3843/1 appe...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Sep 28, 2023

The Science of Steel: The Stuff of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements and the Backbone of Watchmaking

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

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SJX Watches

Hermes vertical integration Sep 8, 2023

Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium

Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Rolex Explorer 124270 Aug 15, 2023

The Fibonacci Sequence Strikes Again! Nomos and Revolution Team Up for the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update “Resilience”

The latest limited edition produced by Wei Koh and our friends at Revolution is a high concept variant of the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update that uses one of our favorite mathematical principles as a starting point. Longtime readers might recall Blake’s dive into the Rolex Explorer 124270, and pondered what the dimensions of that watch and their relationship to the Golden Ratio meant for comfort on the wrist. The so-called Golden Ratio is derived from dividing each number in the Fibonacci series by its predecessor, and the results, in an almost mystical way, seem to line up with natural phenomenon, like the way leaves, branches, and petals grow in a predictable spiral, and the shape of the shell of a snail. This new watch, dubbed “Resilience,” is so-named because the helix shape, a pattern linked to the Fibonacci sequence, is the symbol for resilience in nature, a concept that Revolution and Nomos were interested in exploring coming out of the Covid-19 pandemic.  Before we get to the watch, a brief refresher/math lesson is required to get everyone up to speed on the Fibonacci numbers. This will be coming from someone with a liberal arts education, so please do feel free to check my work in the comments below, as I just barely passed introductory calculus. The easiest way to understand the Fibonacci sequence is to observe that they’re a set of numbers where the next digit is always the sum of the two digits immediately preceding it. Dividing any two successive F...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Longines HydroConquest GMT signal Aug 10, 2023

Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign?

The Longines HydroConquest GMT departs from the cult-classic look for a more familiar case shape. The green and brown dial options are especially sumptuous, with gold details and colour-matched date wheels. The new GMT design may be divisive among HydroConquest fans, but will certainly attract a wider audience. Longines are one of the biggest players … ContinuedThe post Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 28, 2023

Men's Business Watches: 20 Timepieces for 20 Professions

We've all heard of "dressing for success," and the sage advice on dressing for "the job you want, not the job you have." These wardrobe rules of thumb also apply to the watch one wears to go to work, whether your workplace is a corporate office, a restaurant kitchen, a science lab, an aircraft cockpit or anywhere in-between. Here we've listed 20 occupations and suggested a proper timepiece for each. The list is, of course, quite subjective, so please feel free to add your own alternatives in the comments. We'll likely be updating this list regularly, so if you've got an occupation that's not covered here, plus an idea of the perfect watch for it, do chime in with that as well.  Bank CEO: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R ($31,940) A corner-office executive needs a watch that projects understated style as well as classical luxury, and perhaps no brand embodies that ethos better than Patek Philippe, which recently added a hobnail “Clous de Paris” bezel, first used on the classic Ref. 3919, to its iconic Calatrava (Ref. 6119R). The watch comes in at 39mm in either rose gold or white gold - larger than its 36mm predecessors but still elegantly sized and also very thin at just over 8mm high. The harmoniously balanced, creamy white dial - with Roman hour numerals on the rose-gold model, gray-to-black with applied indexes on the white-gold - features a recessed small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a railroad minute track on the periphery. Inside is Patek Phil...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Frederique Constant ContinuedThe post FRIDAY Jun 2, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show

Just ahead of the weekend, two brands have announced some exciting news! Citizen to open multi-brand flagship in New York City Some people hear the Citizen name, and think solely of the brand. But Citizen, or the Citizen Watch Group, is actually a multi-brand conglomerate that not only includes Citizen, but also Alpina, Frederique Constant, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Jun 2, 2023

Bollinger RD 2008 Champagne: One of the Greatest Wines from a Sensational Vintage

Ken Gargett reports that the sensational Bollinger RD 2008 is a deep golden bronze colour. The immediate impression was two things. First, an impressive array of nutty notes. Hazelnuts certainly, but also walnuts and a touch of almond. Fuller than many, as one expects from Bolly, but the balance never wavers. It shows just how much time on lees can bring about changes in a wine.

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Omega Introduces New References May 16, 2023

Omega Introduces New References in their Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Collection, Including One in Titanium

Omega began teasing a new watch on their social media channels in the last few days, and while it was immediately pretty clear we’d be getting a new Worldtimer of some sort, the finer details were very much left a mystery. The existing Worldtimer has become a bit of a cult favorite since its release. It has a truly useful complication, and a dial that is undeniably stunning when you see it in person. The representation of earth as viewed from above the North Pole is a worldtimer trope, and there are a lot of ways to execute it, but few brands give you the detail that Omega can. That said, the watch has always been a little on the large side, and a new colorway is always welcome. Speculation ensued that a smaller version of the Worldtimer might be hitting boutiques, but what we got instead is a material change, along with a hard lean into green, which might no longer be the color of the moment, but seems to suit this particular watch just fine.  What we have in this release is actually a trio of new watches: two references in stainless steel (one on a bracelet, the other a strap), and a completely new version of the watch in titanium. Let’s tackle the steel watches first. These follow the same 43mm format as the existing Worldtimer (the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer, to be more precise), but substitute the familiar blue dial for one in a PVD coated green. The dials here have a light sun-brushed finish, and dial accents (hands and hour markers) are in Moonshine Gold. ...

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W WatchAdvice

WatchAdvice

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Apr 26, 2023

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds - A Classic With A Modern Touch

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is an iconic watch and sets the standard of what a Dress watch should be. Refined, subtle and easy to read. And the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is just this. What We Like Timeless DesignClean and easy to readGood size and wears well What We Don’t No LuminescenceNot an everyday watchStraps take time to break in Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money: 7/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9.5/10 I’ll be honest here. Even with all the watches I’ve tried on and owned over the years, I’ve never owned a square or rectangular watch, nor had I tried one on for longer than 2 minutes in a boutique or dealer. So when Jaeger-LeCoultre offered two of their new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds to wear around for a week, I jumped at the chance to test out this icon of the watch world. The pink gold and black dial Reverso Tribute Small Seconds mid flip – a fun watch to play with on the writst! Jaeger-LeCoultre launched their new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds at Watches and Wonders last month in four dial/colour variants – three in pink gold with black, burgundy and silver dials, and a steel with silver opaline dial. In case you missed it, you can read about it here. All are stunning examples of their heritage and as the name suggests, a Tribute to the originals from 1931. I had the pleasure of going hands on with the steel variant with silver opaline dial, and the pink gold variant with the classic black dial, both with the Fagliano Co...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref 4100BA Apr 24, 2023

Highlights: The Notable and Interesting at Christie’s Dubai Online Auction

Christie’s kicks off the spring auction season with Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, a 136-lot sale taking place entirely online. Featuring a diverse selection of watches, the sale by big-ticket items like a Richard Mille RM 69 tourbillon and a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/111P with a sapphire-set bezel. But the sale also encompasses some unusual and interesting timepieces that are worth a second look, including the Richard Mille RM 36-01 with a G-force sensor and a Grand Seiko 8-Days produced by the same workshop responsible for the better-known Credor Eichi. Some lots are uniquely reflective of the Middle East: amongst them is the Gerald Genta Octo Mosaic with a perpetual calendar in Eastern-Arabic script and a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse gentleman’s set of a solid-gold lighter and cufflinks enamelled with the flag of Oman. A Royal Oak with the signature of Sheikh Mohammed of Dubai under 12 o’clock where the brand name typically is Watches Online: The Dubai Edit takes place online from April 24 to May 4. All the watches will be on show at the same time in the preview exhibition in the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Christies.com. Lot 1: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA “Sheikh Mohammed” One of the sale’s headline lots is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA that, from a distance, looks like an ordinary mid-sized version of the emblematic sports watch. But up close this exa...

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SJX Watches

Cartier Introduces Apr 21, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton

Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts  At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary Apr 14, 2023

Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary with a Quintet of New Releases, and a Bracelet with a Frequently Requested Feature

Norqain is celebrating their fifth anniversary this week with the release of five all new watches in the Independence collection. Five years is an interesting marker to consider. It’s both an impressive accomplishment for any new brand to stick around for that long – we can all point to small, upstart brands that have come and gone in much less time. But it’s also a vanishingly short period in the grand scheme of watchmaking, where the most durable brands have had literal centuries to build their identities. All the more impressive for Norqain then, as they’ve carved out an aesthetic that is immediately recognizable, and have made a ton of progress in developing a culture around their watches that focuses on a new generation of collectors. All of the new anniversary pieces seem to be born out of those ideas, and continue to iterate on what is now a well established design language.  The new watches breakdown as follows: we have two new Independence Skeleton references in 42mm cases, one DLC coated, the other with blue accents; two Independence 40mm pieces, one with a brown gradient dial, the other with a green gradient dial; and a new reference aimed at the female market, an Independence 40mm with a mint mother-of-pearl dial and diamond accents.  The Independence Skeleton watches are follow ups to earlier skeleton releases dating back over the last two years. The DLC coated version has red gold plated hands and applied hour markers, while the non-coated version f...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights - The Unexpected and the Well-Executed

Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...

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R Revolution

Revolution

Sinn presents handsome new dive Mar 29, 2023

VIDEO: Sinn presents handsome new dive watches at Time To Watches

Aviation and dive watch enthusiasts might know Sinn, a cult brand that has a rich history of developing high-accuracy and highly durable utilitarian watches. Among its 2023 debuts was the T50, a 500m water-resistant watch that comes in titanium or Sinn’s alloy called “Goldbronze”, that is awaiting patent. The T50 is 41mm in case size […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Rolex Mar 27, 2023

Introducing: Rolex Cellini Is Dead. Make Way For The New Perpetual Collection

A 39mm Rolex dress watch called 1908 just dropped in white and yellow gold. It's the first official member of the new Perpetual collection.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns Mar 27, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech marks a return for the 40mm Radiomir case. The use of Goldtech and a white dial offers a modern and sophisticated take on the vintage-inspired watch. It’s also the thinnest watch in Panerai’s current lineup, at a cuff-friendly 10.15mm. This seems to be the year of the Radiomir for Panerai, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Mar 24, 2023

How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made

Nearly every advance in watchmaking technology has been in the service of increased utility and functionality - even inventions that we now consider entirely luxurious affectations. The minute repeater, for example, was invented so a watch wearer could audibly check the time in the dark in the days before luminous treatment on dials. Even the tourbillon began its existence as a device for enhancing timekeeping accuracy, countering the effects of gravity on a pocketwatch’s movement. Thus it should come as no surprise that as the world entered the electronic era in the mid-20th century, watchmakers would attempt to harness the new technologies to improve the precision - and hence the desirability - of their products. Read on as we trace the evolution of timekeeping technology all the way up through today’s most accurate watches.  Birth of the Chronometer Not long after the tracking of time migrated from giant clocks in the town square to portable devices carried in waistcoat pockets, and eventually worn on wrists (click here for a brief history of watches), the need for a standard of dependable accuracy in these mechanical timekeepers became evident. Hence the establishment of standards for which a timepiece could be deemed a "chronometer." The classical definition of a chronometer goes all the way back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to det...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden We’re Mar 20, 2023

[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden

We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...

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SJX Watches

Richard Mille Mar 18, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Beginning in early April, Sotheby’s spring sale season in Hong Kong also marks the auctioneer’s 50th anniversary in Asia. One of the headline sales is Important Watches I, a 210-lot sale that spans notable complications, artisanal decoration, and of course, independent watchmaking. The indie line up includes heavy hitters from the likes of F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and Philippe Dufour, but also a few potential value buys such as the Christophe Claret Blackjack 21. And in the mix are some surprises, like the FVF Tourbillon Superligero. The auction takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Gérald Genta Fantasy Retro Mickey Mouse in 18k white gold Gérald Genta was the first watch brand to place cartoon character in high-end watches, well before it became a fad amongst luxury watchmakers. The Fantasy collection depicted various Disney characters, usually combined with retrograde complications. Such watches are common enough that a few appear every auction season, but almost always in steel or occasionally yellow gold. This example, surprisingly, is entirely in 18k white gold, case and bracelet, making it very uncommon. While it will pass for steel at a distance, the heft of the case and bracelet is a giveaway.  The case is 36 mm, compact by today’s standards but the typical size for a men’s watch in the 1990s and early 2000s. And the dial is mother of pearl – Genta was a pioneer in exotic dia...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

H. Moser Mar 13, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33

Earlier this year, we saw the debut of a new ‘in-house’ caliber from Atelier de Chronométrie called the M284 within a beautiful watch called the AdC22 which we introduced to you right here. Today we’re getting a glimpse at the next chapter for this movement in the form of the AdC33, a limited edition collaboration with The Lavish Attic, a Hong Kong based collective that curates exclusive high craft products and experiences, serving as area distributors for Urwerk and H. Moser. Here, the outfit is collaborating with Atelier de Chronométrie on an exclusive watch that offers buyers a few interesting choices, including white “Grand Feu” enamel dials with ancient Chinese characters, and an alloy called Gray Gold.  Precious metal cases have expanded beyond the likes of just yellow and rose gold, with stuff like tantalum, black platinum, and proprietary mixes like Omega’s Moonshine offering a wide selection of pricey yet tantalizing choices when it comes to cases. Let’s add gray gold to that list, a gold alloy with high palladium content that apparently lands somewhere between white gold and platinum in appearance. In the case of the AdC33 seen here, it takes on the stepped 37mm case in beautiful fashion, and it’s offered alongside more traditional yellow and rose options. Not to be outdone by the case, the dial brings plenty of intrigue as well thanks to its finish as well as the markings at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The white grand feu dial is ins...

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SJX Watches

Tissot Debuts PRX “Ice Blue” Mar 2, 2023

Tissot Debuts PRX “Ice Blue” Powermatic and “Blue Panda” Chronograph

Since its 2020 launch, the PRX has been a crowd favourite for making the currently-fashionable integrated-bracelet aesthetic affordable. Now Tissot has announced new additions to the collection: first the base-model PRX Powermatic 80 with an “ice blue” dial, and also the PRX Chronograph with a blue “panda” dial. Initial thoughts The commercial success of the PRX made additional variants inevitable. Fortunately, the new additions are crowd pleasers. The colourways are familiar so neither is novel but both give enthusiasts what they want. Save for the dials, both models are intrinsically identical to their predecessors. The prices remain the same, leaving them competitively priced and strong value.  The shade of light blue chosen for the Powermatic 80 caters in part to the ongoing craze for robin egg blue and also brings to mind the colour of the Rolex Daytona and Rolex Day-Date in platinum. For me, this is a solid update to the model that will undoubtedly be a strong seller. Also, the Powermatic 80 now has the option of a rubber strap as an alternative to the steel bracelet (but the strap has to be purchased separately). This is the perfect solution for someone who wants a strap without seeking an aftermarket offering. As for the chronograph, the blue “panda” dial works well. The blue accents provide subtle contrast with the vertically-brushed silver dial, while being more modern than the original “panda” model that had gold hands and markers. I still wis...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Audemars Piguet Mar 1, 2023

Spotted: Jay Z Wearing An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar In Picasso Baby

Last month, Jay Z blurred the lines between music video and fine art by performing the single "Picasso Baby" from his new album Magna Carta Holy Grail for 6 hours inside New York City's Pace Gallery. A small group of people joined him for the intimate performance – which was filmed by director Mark Romanek – including luminaries from the creative world such as Marina Abromović, Judd Apatow, Alan Cumming, Taraji P. Henson, Adam Driver, and Rosie Perez. Also present for the performance, a gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an openworked dial on the wrist of Jay himself.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Sinn T50 Last week Sinn Feb 28, 2023

[VIDEO] Worn & Wound Reacts: The Titanium and Goldbronze Sinn T50

Last week, Sinn dropped their new releases for 2023, taking us by surprise with a new titanium clad T50 diver, and a new material called Goldbronze. As long time Sinn enthusiasts, Blake and Zach took the time to offer their reactions to the new release, and compare the new dial design to that of the U50, a with which the T50 shares the same platform. We find a lot to love here, along with a few details that don’t hit quite as hard as we’d like. All things considered, we’re definitely here for more titanium Sinn divers, and this is the most Sinn approach possible to using bronze. You can find more of our Sinn coverage of the new releases right here, and you can read some of our favorite our Sinn reviews right here. Let us know your thoughts on this new release from Sinn in the comments below or on YouTube, and don’t forget to subscribe while you’re there. The post [VIDEO] Worn & Wound Reacts: The Titanium and Goldbronze Sinn T50 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound

Sinn Goes Full Titanium Feb 23, 2023

Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch

Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too.  The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...

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W WatchAdvice

WatchAdvice

Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” Feb 1, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43”

Why I Bought It It was different to a SubmarinerI like slightly larger watchesAll the Rolex heritage with a modern look The Ownership Reality It would help if you had a medium-sized wrist to pull it offNot great with a suit and cuffWe need to part with over $4000 more to own vs a Sub with a date! Overall rating: 8.25 /10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 I was never a Rolex lover. There I said it. I thought Rolex was a brand for people that wanted to show off and tell people they had money and didn’t really know about watches. For some people, this is still probably the case, but this all changed for me many years ago once I started delving a lot more into the watch world, brands and their history, as well as their manufacturing techniques. And when I started researching Rolex a little, I started to understand just what made them tick, so to speak (yes, bad pun intended!) Now, I have a lot of respect for The Crown, what they stand for, and the processes and materials they use. The fact that they are one of the very few brands that develop and make their watches fully in-house, end to end, including metallurgists who develop the specific properties and proprietary blends of metals that go into them, including a foundry, I was a convert. These days I see Rolex for what Hans Wilsdorf originally intended – a tool watch that is able to handle whatever you throw at them and is designed for specific industries and occupations. Whilst mos...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Grand Seiko SLGA021 Grand Seiko has Jan 30, 2023

OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021

Grand Seiko has issued a standard production Lake Suwa sequel to the limited edition SLGA007, the new SLGA021 Includes an Evolution 9 case and bracelet, 9RA2 5-day Spring Drive calibre, Lake Suwa textured dial. The SLGA021 dial is darker than the previous SLGA007, and also does not use a golden-toned hand and logo like the SLGA007. … ContinuedThe post OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Jan 29, 2023

Watch Of The Week: How My Nintendo Taught Me To Love The James Bond Seamaster

To me, there's only one Bond Seamaster – the original. The one from Goldeneye. Yes, the movie. But also the video game.

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