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The Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen is a Danish-inspired diver Time+Tide
Sep 1, 2023

The Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen is a Danish-inspired diver

There is no shortage of options for dive watches coming from the micro/independent market, so a brand launching a new model on Kickstarter must be offering something unique to be noteworthy of our attention. A novel design, outstanding specs, or top-notch finishing – or all three, combined and neatly wrapped in a package that comes … ContinuedThe post The Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen is a Danish-inspired diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Aug 28, 2023

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial

Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts  The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist.  Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like.  Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100.  This movement was presumably used because o...

AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses… Time+Tide
Rolex prices will one day Aug 25, 2023

AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses…

At the top of the list of brands associated with the unobtanium phenomenon is Rolex. Yes, other brands have this shared insufferable quality of low access to watches at retail, but, these other brands are independents with much smaller production runs. Rolex makes approximately 800,000 to a million watches annually, yet many consumers leave boutiques … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 Worn & Wound
Aug 4, 2023

Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023

The Windup Watch Fairs are a great experience for many reasons. You can see new watches, talk to people from the brand, maybe catch a live podcast or panel, and more. But one of the best things to do, when not engaged with a brand, is to walk around and keep your eyes on the wrists around you, as you’d be amazed at what you might see. In a room full of passionate and knowledgeable watch enthusiasts, there is likely a story to every watch on every wrist. Rare watches, new watches, valuable watches, sentimental watches, watches you never knew existed, and more. And, since you’re in a room of like-minded individuals, you can strike up a conversation, and it won’t be weird, like on the subway (don’t do that). Featured below is a small selection of the watches on the wrists of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 attendees. As you’ll see, there was a lot of variety. From micro brands to luxury staples to high-end independents, just about every facet of the industry was represented. Stay up to date on future Windup Watch Fairs Images from this post: The post Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ | Revo Talks Revolution
Moritz Grossmann Aug 3, 2023

Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ | Revo Talks

Join Wei and Constant as they deep dive into the latest Grail Watch collaboration, Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ which showcases the incredible artistry of two of the brightest names in independent watchmaking. Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ is housed in a […]

Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2023

Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own

If you’ve jumped into the deep end of the watch collecting pool, you’ve probably accumulated a few tools for accomplishing minor tasks, such as changing straps and bracelets, installing new batteries in quartz watches, and general cleaning chores. At some point in your collecting journey, you’ve probably picked up one of those generic sets from … ContinuedThe post Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Light It Up: Our Favorite Full Lume Dials In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Jul 30, 2023

Light It Up: Our Favorite Full Lume Dials In The Windup Watch Shop

We here at the Windup Watch Shop love the summer for a variety of reasons. Barbeque’s, picnics, and long hikes are just a few of the things that stand out. And we as watch enthusiasts get to reap the benefits of hanging out in nature all day when we look on our nightstand at night and see our watches glowing amongst the darkness. It truly makes us smile, remembering  the completely awesome day we had outdoors with friends and family. We’re not going to lie, we’re kind of snobby when it comes to lume because we love it so much and as they say “Go big or go home”. So today, we’re going to highlight just a few of our absolute favorite watches with fully lumed dials that are incredible to look at in the dark! We here at the Windup Watch Shop love the summer for a variety of reasons. Barbeque’s, picnics, and long hikes are just a few of the things that stand out. And we as watch enthusiasts get to reap the benefits of hanging out in nature all day when we look on our nightstand at night and see our watches glowing amongst the darkness. It truly makes us smile, remembering  the completely awesome day we had outdoors with friends and family. We’re not going to lie, we’re kind of snobby when it comes to lume because we love it so much and as they say “Go big or go home”. So today, we’re going to highlight just a few of our absolute favorite watches with fully lumed dials that are incredible to look at in the dark! The post Light It Up: Our Favorite Full L...

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Richard Mille Jul 26, 2023

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained

Barely more than two decades in existence, Richard Mille is one of the luxury watch industry’s most compelling modern success stories and one of the most popular and recognizable brands out there - despite the fact that it makes timepieces that are wildly inaccessible to all but the most deep-pocketed and well-connected aficionados. To many who follow the industry, the brand’s stratospheric prices are the story: In 2022, for example, Richard Mille did $487 million in sales, despite the fact that it only made 5,400 watches that year. Yes, that averages out to more than $90,000 per watch, and even that rather stunning stat doesn’t represent the big picture, as many of Richard Mille’s most coveted models come in at an MSRP in the neighborhood of half a million dollars or more. In its 2023 analysis of the Swiss watch market, Morgan Stanley reports that Richard Mille is now the sixth largest Swiss watch brand in the world in terms of sales, right behind Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. So why are Richard Mille watches so expensive and what factors set them apart from every other watchmaker in the highest echelons of horology? Read on.  Origins: The Man Behind Richard Mille Watches The foundations of the Richard Mille watch brand reach back to 1988, when its namesake, Richard Mille, Head of Watchmaking and CEO of Jewellery at Paris-based jewelry house Mauboussin, met Dominique Guenat, owner of Guenat SA Montres Valgine, a watchmaker in the S...

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Jul 24, 2023

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution

Historically known for its over-the-top jewelled watches and oversized complications, Jacob & Co. recently debuted a watch that is very much quintessential Jacob, but surprisingly novel in mechanical terms. The Astronomia Revolution sticks to the distinctive, extra-large styling that defines the model, but contains an all-new movement that combines several complex assemblies into an even more complex movement, all in the name of a dynamic, fast-rotating display. Carrying the tourbillon and time display, the carousel is impressively quick and completes one revolution a minute, a feat made possible by a one-sixth-of-a-second constant-force mechanism and a differential for the time display. The kinetic nature of the dial means this is unlike any other mechanical watch. Initial thoughts The Astronomia Revolution made it into my list of notable complications unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year: “[The] Revolution seems like yet another variant of the New York jeweller’s bestselling and bulbous timepiece… Except that it is not… While past versions of the Astronomia required between ten to 20 minutes or more for the carousel to complete one rotation, the Revolution does it in one minute [and] functions as a minute hand. To move a component that large at such a speed is unprecedented…” Which pretty much sums it up. It looks like a typical Jacob & Co. watch, but is much more interesting mechanically. That is because the movement goes against the prevailing co...

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Baltic Bulova Jul 23, 2023

A Week in Watches Episode 59: Lorier, Baltic, Bulova, and More From Windup Watch Fair Chicago ’23

Episode 59 of A Week in Watches comes from inside of Windup Watch Fair Chicago. Blake Buettner, Zach Kazan, and Zach Weiss take the opportunity to talk to eight brands about their new releases and their stories. From the new Bulova Jet Star to Lorier’s Hydra III to Benrus’ Ultra-Deep, there were lots of great releases and watches in general at the Windup Watch Fair. Check out this week’s video below for just a taste of what was at the fair. Want to check out a Windup Watch Fair for yourself? The next one will be in New York City from October 20 – 22, 2023. It’s going to be our biggest fair yet. To stay up to date check out windupwatchfair.com, follow the fair @windupwatchfair, and sign up for our newsletters. The post A Week in Watches Episode 59: Lorier, Baltic, Bulova, and More From Windup Watch Fair Chicago ’23 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Digital Get Down! – Our Favorite Digital Watches In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Jul 21, 2023

Digital Get Down! – Our Favorite Digital Watches In The Windup Watch Shop

We here at the Windup Watch Shop know some watch enthusiasts turn their nose to digital watches for a combination of reasons, including a preference for the traditional and aesthetic appeal of analog watches with their intricate mechanical movements and timeless designs, or even a sense of nostalgia and connection to the past. And while that’s all ok and fine, we got to admit…we still really love digital watches! They’re great pieces to accompany many watch collectors’ personal collections and add a bit of fun because they usually have more functionality than the traditional three hander mechanical watch. Today, we’re going to take a look at a few of our favorite digital watches, found here at the Windup Watch Shop! We here at the Windup Watch Shop know some watch enthusiasts turn their nose to digital watches for a combination of reasons, including a preference for the traditional and aesthetic appeal of analog watches with their intricate mechanical movements and timeless designs, or even a sense of nostalgia and connection to the past. And while that’s all ok and fine, we got to admit…we still really love digital watches! They’re great pieces to accompany many watch collectors’ personal collections and add a bit of fun because they usually have more functionality than the traditional three hander mechanical watch. Today, we’re going to take a look at a few of our favorite digital watches, found here at the Windup Watch Shop! The post Digital Get Do...

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Citizen Promaster Dive Eco-Drive Unite Jul 16, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 58: Is Zodiac Brilliant or Bonkers?

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we have a bunch of complications and some pretty cool case materials. We start with the UK’s Garrick and their Regulator MK2. From there we head to Austria to check out Habring2’s new Top-Seconds chronograph. After, it’s off to Switzerland for Ochs Und Junior’s new, but old Ochs line Moonphase. Lastly, it’s back to the US for Zodiac and their new line of white ceramic Super Sea Wolfs. This week’s sponsor is the Windup Watch Shop. New in the shop are some fun, colorful watches that are perfect for the summer like the Citizen Promaster Dive Eco-Drive Unite with Blue and the G-SHOCK MTG Aurora Oval. Be sure to check those out and more at windupwatchshop.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 58: Is Zodiac Brilliant or Bonkers? appeared first on Worn & Wound.

UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will Jul 16, 2023

UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition

The notion of a nature-inspired watch is nothing new for Grand Seiko, it is certainly their M.O. But when the Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower” Limited Edition was released last year it was a huge deal for multiple reasons. Firstly, the SBGJ269 was the first-ever Australian limited edition from Grand Seiko. Secondly, the 50-piece … ContinuedThe post UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear Time+Tide
Breitling makes Jul 12, 2023

Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear

With all of the streaming platforms at our disposal, there is a fair bit of comfort-food garbage shows for us all to guiltily binge. But, when people ask me what is a good show, a genuinely good show, to watch, FX on Hulu’s The Bear is definitely at the top of the list. For many … ContinuedThe post Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch Time+Tide
Baltic Brew or Boldr there Jul 8, 2023

Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch

Some microbrands just get it. Their designs are elegant, their execution flawless, their carefully chosen components top-notch, and their customer experience first-rate. But for every Baltic, Brew, or Boldr, there are scads of ill-conceived releases that, for one reason or another, can cause my eye to twitch uncontrollably. A handset that’s all wrong. An off-putting … ContinuedThe post Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 1: Studio Shizukuishi – the home of 9S mechanical Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 1 Jul 8, 2023

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 1: Studio Shizukuishi – the home of 9S mechanical

Ever since I went down the rabbit hole of watch enthusiasm, truly well and down the hole, I have always wanted to visit the Grand Seiko manufacture in Japan – it was at the tippy-top of my horological bucket list. Then I got a phone call, like a pitcher waiting in the bullpen, from Andrew … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 1: Studio Shizukuishi – the home of 9S mechanical appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrating 50 Years of Being Fashionably On Time with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono Back Jul 6, 2023

Celebrating 50 Years of Being Fashionably On Time with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono

Back in January of 1973, Citizen, a pioneering Japanese watchmaking house, released a unique riff on a watch that they’d launched only a few months earlier. The watch was their very first mechanical chronograph. This version had the chronograph pushers situated at the top of the case, rather than on the side, in what’s affectionately referred to as a bullhead configuration called the Citizen Challenge Timer. Fans would soon nickname the “Tsuno Chrono” and its instantly recognizable 70s tones and panda dial layout would make this particular variant a legend. Fast forward to August 1, 2019, when a young watch journalist, and co-founder of a particular watch enthusiast publication, would rush home from a movie theater to research a timepiece he’d seen on screen. Zach Weiss had just finished viewing Quentin Tarantino’s critically acclaimed ninth film, Once Upon a Time … In Hollywood. Here’s an excerpt from the article he penned and published immediately thereafter. The film went on to be nominated for a total of ten Academy Awards at the 2020 Oscars and won two including Best Supporting Actor for Brad Pitt, which further cemented his role and this watch into absolute icon status. Despite a blatant continuity error, it’s clear that this was not a miscasting. It was still the right watch, on the right wrist, in the right role, at the right time. Now, 50 years later from the introduction of the original Tsuno Chrono, Citizen has reimagined the concept, form fact...

G-SHOCK Looks to the Northern Lights for Inspiration in New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jul 4, 2023

G-SHOCK Looks to the Northern Lights for Inspiration in New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval

A new MT-G from G-Shock brings a stunning selection of vibrant colors to the case, dial, and strap in a full embracing of its inspiration, the aurora borealis as seen from space. The watch is the MTG-B3000, and it uses a stainless steel recrystallization and deep-layer hardening processes with a rainbow IP coating applied to the surface that brings the shimmering ROY G BIV tones to life on the bezel and case. The result is an ever changing vibrance paired with blacks, reds, and purples to round out the effect. This is a watch that uses every surface, nook, and cranny to express the theme, and it makes a unique impression as a result, even for an MT-G.  Taking inspiration from nature is nothing new of course, as we’ve seen executed beautifully by the likes of Grand Seiko and others, generally in the form of a dial texture or the color palette at use. In typical G-Shock style, they’ve embraced the inspiration of the aurora in a unique manner thanks to their material processes and treatments. The aurora borealis is not a static event, occurring when charged particles collide with the earth’s atmosphere, causing billions of flashes to occur in sequence, giving the appearance of ‘dancing’ across the sky in an organic manner. Recreating this effect in a material was the goal for G-Shock, and one they achieved in a way that is unfortunately incapable of being captured in photographs. The process of creating the bezel begins with the stainless steel base, which undergoe...

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Bravur Jul 4, 2023

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches

Every year, the Tour de France captivates the imagination and competitive spirit of those who are interested in cycling. While many Americans probably associate the sport with Lance Armstrong, there is an entire population of cycling enthusiasts who watch with bated breath as some of the top athletes in the sport traverse 2,115 miles over 23 days across France. It’s a spectacle of dedication, athleticism, and, yes, a bit of national pride. Swedish watch brand Bravur has tapped into the enthusiasm of the sport with the release of their series of watches dedicated to the Grand Tours, the top three most prestigious cycling events of the year. With the 2023 Tour de France upon us, Bravur has just released their third edition of Le Grand Boucle. The latest in the series to honor the Gallic event, Bravur has taken design elements of previous versions, while making the Le Grand Boucle III entirely new.  Starting with the visuals, the latest from Bravur is a vibrant pairing of yellow (long associated with the Tour winner) and a ceramic black coating on the case, giving it a sporty look that still remains sophisticated. The small details of this watch show that Bravur has done their homework, including the frosted white dial features and dot markers, reminiscent of the legendary polka dot patterns found on the King of the Mountains jersey, awarded to the race’s top climber. Further design themes that nod to the Tour’s history include an inverted “13” on the chapter ring,...

Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37 Time+Tide
Maen Jun 29, 2023

Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37

Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ teams up with Maen for an unexpect take on the Manhattan 37 The integrated-bracelet gets a literal cherry on top of its handset, as well as a new magenta dial The 37-piece limited edition is powered by an élaboré-grade Sellita SW200 Every chance Romaric André gets to add his twist to … ContinuedThe post Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Reveals Set of New FXD Watches For Alinghi Red Bull Racing Worn & Wound
Tudor Reveals Set Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Reveals Set of New FXD Watches For Alinghi Red Bull Racing

In a surprise move this week Tudor has revealed a pair of new FXD watches in honor of their partnership with the two time America’s Cup winning Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. To date, we’ve made due with the single FXD reference which was released in late 2020, and it’s a platform we’ve been thoroughly impressed with for reasons you can read about in our in-depth review right here. Today, the FXD gets a pair of stablemates in the form of the Pelagos FXD and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition”, which introduce a new material to the mix, along with, for the first time ever for the collection, complications.  The Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition FXD watches continue to make use of the defining feature eluded to in the FXD name, which is a fixed lug bar design, meaning passthrough straps only. Tudor have made a new hook and loop, or “self-gripping fastening system”-equipped Julien Faure strap in blue and red for these new references in a nod to the red accents found in the racing team’s colors. Along the same lines, the bezel of each of these FXD watches has been rendered in matte black. The time-only reference is of course familiar, sharing the same dimensions as the original FXD with a trim 42mm case that wears quite flat. The black bezel is a handsome addition to the matte blue dial, which gains red accents in the seconds hand, as well as the Pelagos label at the bottom of the dial, similar to what we see in the Pelagos 39. This watch uses ...

Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni Jun 29, 2023

Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) is a surprising watch and wearing it for a couple of weeks made me seriously consider the piece. But, not for the reasons I thought when I first saw the press release earlier this year! What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticGreat wearing, slim case profileThe textured, smoked gradient dial What We Don’t Case is a little too darkNo date (personal preference)Wire lugs take a little getting used to Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When Panerai released the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) back in March for Watches and Wonders, I was immediately drawn to it, the distressed case, the textured smoked dial and the classic Radiomir look. So when I had the option of what Panerai’s I’d like to review next, I immediately jumped at the Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue. The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue First Impressions In my experience, press images and renders of watches either go one of two ways. They either make the watch look super cool and the actual piece is a little underwhelming in person, or it goes the other way – they really don’t do it justice at all. Laying eyes on the new Radiomir for the first time, my initial reaction was “This is not quite what I excepted!” but in a good way. The distressed steel was a little darker than expected, the case was thinner and the 45mm diameter case did not look or feel this big at all. And the texture...