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Quill & Pad
Please join this Quill & Pad round table discussion in which we discuss what we did and didn’t like at the inaugural (and hopefully final) digital edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2021. There were plenty of highs and more than a few lows during the week-long watch fest, and a sheer avalanche of new watches.
SJX Watches
Founded by watchmaking genius Ludwig Oechslin, best known for the inventive timepieces he created for Ulysse Nardin like the Freak and Trilogy of Time, Ochs und Junior specialises in brilliantly simple complications that are minimalist, functional, and idiosyncratic in style. Dr Oechslin is best known for his calendar complications, particularly the Perpetual Ludwig he invented for Ulysse Nardin, which remains the centrepiece of his latest wristwatch, the Calendario Cent’anni. Italian for “hundred-year calendar”, the Calendario Cent’Anni (CCA) will indicate the calendar till the end of this century, like most other perpetual calendar watches, but it is executed in Ochs und Junior’s inimitable style. And while the CCA retains the Ochs und Junior look, it will be offered in three fixed variations (each named after a Roman numeral), instead of being endlessly customisable as the first-generation Ochs und Junior perpetual calendar was. From left: CCA III, II and I Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars were once an expensive complication, but the proliferation of mass-produced as well as unconventional, streamlined calendar mechanisms have brought about many affordable perpetual calendars, with the cheapest starting at around US$9,000. But few perpetual calendar watches are as interesting as Dr Oechslin’s invention. While it does cost more than the most affordable perpetuals with a retail price of about US$16,600, the CCA is truly innovative. Dr Oechlin’s perpetu...
Time+Tide
There has been a huge amount of attention paid to Longines’ new Spirit Collection since it was launched. And rightly so. It offers a contemporary and value-packed new proposition right in the spot where buyers want it; which is a watch that can be a daily wearer that’s robust enough for most situations and well … ContinuedThe post Longines are quietly having another cracking year, spanning divers, pilots and vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display. Front and back Initial thoughts From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar. Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable. The reverse display with digital hours Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists. At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels p...
Time+Tide
This is the time of year I wish that I owned the patent for the coffee cup sleeve or happened to be the son of an oil baron. There have been so many fantastic novelties at this Watches & Wonders but, sadly, many are light years out of the reach of my 27-year-old budget. Still … ContinuedThe post Zach’s top 5 Watches & Wonders novelties with an unlimited budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
After introducing the amusingly quirky Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/ last week, H. Moser and Cie. continues with its minimalist approach to design in a more serious-minded manner with the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye. Available in two variants each with equally stunning natural stone dials – blue Falcon’s Eye and reddish-brown Ox’s Eye – the new tourbillon features rich colours and textures that are a departure from Moser’s conventional aesthetic. Both dials are variants of Tiger’s Eye, the quartz mineral best known as golden brown but also found in other colours. Being a natural material with a prominent grain, each dial, and consequently each watch, is technically unique. The Ox’s Eye variant, with a red dial and red gold case. Initial thoughts The new tourbillon is based on an existing reference, which is already a mesmerising watch. However, for those seeking something different from the usual fume dials that’s still quintessentially Moser, the Tiger’s Eye certainly fits the bill. Mineral stone dials were the in-thing in the 1970s and 1980s – often found in with ultra-thin watches on mesh bracelets – and seem to be enjoying a resurgence today. But few have implemented semiprecious stones as beautifully as Moser has here, with its signature minimalist look providing the perfect canvas for the unique natural material. I find both variants equally attractive. The Falcon’s Eye is more contemporary in its blue and white g...
Deployant
Cartier freshened 6 of their collection families this Watches & Wonders 2021. Here is our top 3 picks as highlights: Tank Must, Prive Cloche, Ballon Bleu.
Revolution
Bulgari captivates once again with two new versions of its Octo Finissimo line: an ultra thin double retrograde perpetual calendar and the beautiful Tadao Ando limited edition, this time in blue.
Quill & Pad
As the digital spectacle of Watches & Wonders 2021 unfolds, we are starting to see the new trends emerging within the pandemic-saddled world of watches. Some are surprising, others not so. The tourbillon retains its the top spot in the horological food chain and has become something around which all other trends come and go. Here, Martin Green highlights 5 new tourbillons from Watches & Wonders 2021 that caught his eye.
SJX Watches
Capitalising on the enduring popularity of the Tank, Cartier has (re)launched the Tank Must de Cartier at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new Tank Must line includes several entry-level watches in steel, including an unusual solar-powered model, and also a trio of watches with monochrome, solid colour dials in red, green and blue that are inspired by originals of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Appealing for its simple, 1970s style, the new Tank Must is especially striking in red, which is Cartier’s house colour. The cases are all “large model” size, which makes it suited to both genders, though more of a formal-dress watch for men. But they are all unfortunately powered by quartz movements, which are entirely acceptable given the affordable price. Given the style and movement, the new Tank Must is best suited to someone who wants a fuss-free watch that is quintessentially Cartier but not too expensive. Watch enthusiasts will probably have to wait for new versions with mechanical movements in the coming years. Vintage Technicolor The Must de Cartier Tank was born in 1977 as a mass-market product at a low price – and it was a massive hit. Prior to the Must – “I must have a Cartier” – the Tank had only been manufactured in precious metals and never been on an industrial scale. The Must de Cartier watches, which also included the Santos and other case shapes, transformed Cartier into the watch and jewellery giant it is today. While the new Tank Must line encompasses...
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SJX Watches
Unveiled alongside the fancy Cloche Skeleton, the Privé Cloche de Cartier is the latest vintage design to be revived by the Parisian jeweller. Less famous than the Tank or Santos, the Cloche is nevertheless an original design that quirkier than the typical Cartier case. Designed in the 1920s and shaped like a bell – cloche is French for “bell” – the Cloche has been a fixture in Cartier’s catalogue for decades, but only ever produced in small numbers, explaining its relatively obscurity. The last major edition of the model was the Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP) limited edition of 2007 – 100 in yellow gold with a silver dial – though smaller runs and custom models were made in the interim. The new Privé Cloche is offered in three metals – either pink or yellow gold as well as platinum – each limited to 100 pieces. The Cloche variants. Image – Cartier Initial thoughts The Cloche is a quirky but appealing shape that brings to mind “driver’s” watches, but is an original design in itself. The newest iteration of the century-old design is the largest to date, making it a good size for a formal-dress watch even by modern standards. The case is fairly wide, and also thick enough it doesn’t feel delicate. The only aspect of the design I question is the strap, which feels too narrow, especially on a bare wrist that isn’t under a shirt cuff. Although the design is classic Cartier, the colours and details give the Cloche a more modern feel. The d...
SJX Watches
Starting four years ago, Cartier has utilised the Privé collection to relaunch many of its most classic designs, typically in small production runs. It started with the Crash Radieuse in 2017, which was followed by the Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, and last year’s Tank Asymétrique. Not unexpectedly, Cartier has continued this with the Cloche de Cartier, in both skeletonised and traditional formats. Though the form is novel, the Cloche is a long-established case design for the Parisian jeweller. Its asymmetry allows it to double up as a small desk clock, with the flat side of the case resting on the desktop. The shape made its first appearance as a wristwatch in 1921, with a platinum case set with diamonds according to Cartier. Reputedly inspired by the shape of a service bell – cloche is French for “bell” – the Cloche remained in production, albeit in tiny numbers, until a relaunch as a quartz watch in the Louis Cartier collection. The two most recent iterations of the Cloche came in 1995 and 2007, the first a limited run of 200 in yellow gold, the second 100 in yellow gold as part of the Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP). Harking back to the first Cloche wristwatch of 1921 – the platinum skeleton set with diamonds Initial thoughts The watches of the Privé collection – Cloche, Crash, Tank Cintree, and Tank Asymétrique – exemplify what Cartier does best. To call these watches unconventional would be an understatement – they were radical when they each ...
SJX Watches
Breitling’s opening salvo for the year is a trio of chronographs at Watches & Wonders 2021. The first is the Premier Heritage Chronograph, a straightforward, two-register chronograph, and another is the Premier Heritage Datora, an old-school combination of a chronograph with triple calendar. (The flagship model is the Premier Heritage Duograph split-seconds chronograph, which we cover in another story.) The new Premier Heritage collection is modelled on its namesake line from the 1940s, continuing the brand’s recent efforts of revisiting its past catalogue and re-introducing notable references, but with a couple of modern twists, like the mint-green dial for the Premier chronograph. The Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of the new releases. While the Premier Heritage Chronograph may not be the most innovative, it’s an improvement over the previous generation Premier chronograph. For one, the case size has been reduced to 40 mm from 42 mm, giving the new watch proportions more akin to its vintage inspiration. The dial, now sans date window, is cleaner too. And its manual-winding movement should please traditionalists, who can also admire the movement through a sapphire case back without a rotor to obscure the view. That being said, the mint-green dial will likely divide opinions. It’s a bold look, but I can’t help but wonder if keeping to a safer colour would have been the wiser choice given the retro design. The Datora in ...
Time+Tide
There’s no shortage of icons in the realm of pilot watches with aviation forming a key part of human achievement over the last century. There is arguably no stronger example of watches being used as indispensable tools, a notion which is increasingly romanticised as the humble watch becomes more of a style accessory over the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes flight with striking camouflage dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In the era before electronic timekeeping, fighter pilots relied on mechanical navigation clocks on their instrument panels known as navigationsborduhr, or NaBo for short. Sinn got its start making instruments and watches for pilots and planes, and one of its earliest products was the NaBo 17 ZM made for the Tornado fighters of the Luftwaffe in the 1970s (which remain in service today). Now Sinn has reimagined the NaBo 17 ZM for the wrist, creating the 717, a massive chronograph powered by the proprietary SZ01 movement. Initial thoughts The historical basis of the 717 is impeccable, and Sinn has managed to translate much of the cockpit clock feel into the wristwatch, right down to the details like the “pump” pushers and knurled crown that resembles those on the NaBo 17 ZM. The 717 is impressive in the manner that most of Sinn’s “tool” watches are – it is perfectly legible and the case is virtually scratch-proof – but it also seems way larger than necessary. At 45 mm by 15.3 mm it is massive on both counts, and will probably feel extremely chunky on the wrist. Priced at a bit over or under US$5,000 depending on the strap, the 717 sits at the high end of Sinn’s offerings, but is priced similar to other watches with the SZ01 movement. It’s fair enough, though the size will not be for everyone. A lot of bezel Clock on the wrist The dial of the 717 stays faithful to the NaBo 17 ZM, most notably with the extra-large, central hand in orange for elapsed minutes...
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Revolution
Max Büsser tells us about the LMX, created to mark the MB&F; Legacy Machine family of watches’ 10th anniversary, the idea behind which, in his words, was to, “basically take the original LM1, which is the beginning of the story and put it on steroids.”
Quill & Pad
Ian has a fairly narrow frame of reference when it comes to buying watches for himself: his taste runs to independents, in-house movements, and superlative hand-finishing. So why on earth did he buy a Corum Bubble, which is from a big (for him) brand and outfitted with an ETA 2892 movement with an industrial finish? And it's huge!
Time+Tide
Deepfakes are a phenomenon only a few years old, but already have governments around the world very worried. In essence, a deepfake is a fake video generated by a type of artificial intelligence called deep learning, which then creates a realistic impression of someone. Just think Photoshop in the 21st century with a slight Twilight … ContinuedThe post This deepfake of Tom Cruise has been seen 30M+ times. But why is he wearing such hot watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
With the incredible success of the Speedmaster line, Omega’s chief Raynald Aeschlimann is also now lifting up the Seamaster family with three new watches which together form an impressive second act for Omega in 2021 following the massively successful new Speedmaster launch.
Time+Tide
Only two weeks ago we introduced you to the firework display of bedazzling colours in the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone, which hypnotised us with small, fresh flashes of the rainbow. This time, Zenith shows us how the angular tool presence of the DEFY series projects an image of quiet elegance, in the Zenith DEFY 21 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
What’s better than one complicated Cartier? Three complicated Cartiers, especially when they arrive in a specially designed marquetery finished and lacquered wooden box. These three pieces that make up the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”, which share the two uniting themes of mystery and skeletonisation. But in a world where the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Now, please don’t take this title the wrong way: this list is not definitive. Which is why it is not entitled “The 5 Most Innovative Wristwatches Ever Made." This list could have encompassed 15 or even 20 innovative wristwatches! And there are surely differing opinions. However, for Elizabeth Doerr these five timepieces encompass comprehensive parts of what is great about the modern world of wristwatches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet just announced many of the year’s new launches during Inside AP, a virtual presentation anchored by chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias and head of complications Michael Friedman, which also included something more intriguing – a partnership with Marvel and its band of superheroes. Hinted at when I interviewed Mr Bennahmias in 2019 – the announcement originally slated for a June 2020 – the tie up was decades in the making. According to Mr Bennahmias, he had envisioned a tie up with Marvel, the film studio and comic-book publisher that owns characters like Spider-Man, Iron Man, as well as the Avengers and X-Men, some 15 years ago. He only managed to set it in motion in 2017, thanks to American actor Don Cheadle, best known for playing War Machine in the Iron Man and Avengers film series. Friends with Mr Bennahmias for a decade, Mr Cheadle set up a meeting with Marvel executives that year, and also took part in today’s Inside AP presentation. Francois-Henry Bennahmias (left) and Don Cheadle Coming soon to a watch near you. Image – Marvel Studios Mr Bennahmias noted the Marvel partnership was inspired in part by the Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta that featured Disney characters like Mickey Mouse. Coincidentally, Marvel is now owned by The Walt Disney Company, making it a realisation of his ambition in more ways than one. More details about this tie up will be revealed in April during an event in Los Angeles. Stay tuned.
Quill & Pad
Every woman – nay, every person – is different. Which means their needs and wants will be different. All Elizabeth Doerr can do is tell you about her own experience with watches. But perhaps the most important thing of all to know is that any watch is a woman’s watch if a woman is wearing it.
SJX Watches
Popular globally but especially in Commonwealth countries, cricket is the biggest sport in India, which accounts for over 90% of the one billion cricket fans globally according to the sport’s governing body. During the 2019 Cricket World Cup, the India-Pakistan match was seen by by 545 million people in India alone. So if there was ever an appropriate sport for an Indian watchmaker, it certainly is cricket. Bangalore Watch Company (BWC) does exactly that with the Cover Drive, a wristwatch with a cricket score-counting bezel. Initial thoughts Sport-themed watches are common, but a cricket watch is definitely a first. While I’m not a fan of the game, I can see how the Cover Drive would appeal to cricket enthusiasts. For one, the watch is catered to cricket in terms of function, with a bezel that’s graduated to “track elapsed overs in a 50-overs or T20 cricket match” according to the BWC. And its aesthetics are also gently inspired by the game. The hour indices, for instance, are modelled on a stump, the wooden pole used in cricket that make up a wicket. And the triple marker at 12 o’clock resembles a wicket, which made up of three stumps and protected by the batsman. However, all of that also means the Cover Drive – itself is named after a particular shot in cricket – is very much a niche product, albeit one with a billion-strong audience. While the cricket references will only resonate with fans of the sport, the Cover Drive is designed well. It’s legi...
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