Two Broke Watch Snobs
This Affordable Field Watch Reimagines Legibility With a Bold New Dial
Astor and Banks introduces an affordable field watch that rethinks design with layered dials, bold lume, and a modern automatic movement.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Astor and Banks introduces an affordable field watch that rethinks design with layered dials, bold lume, and a modern automatic movement.
Fratello
Not too long ago, we saw almost a flurry of historic watch brands revived. Just when this trend seems to have died down somewhat, here we have Niton. A house originally dating back to 1919 and since lost to history (more on that later) makes a comeback today. This debut results in the aptly named […] Visit Introducing: The Niton Prima - A Historical Watch Brand Returns To The Scene to read the full article.
Monochrome
We’ve said it multiple times, but watchmaking isn’t limited to Switzerland or even Europe. Watchmaking is global, whether regarding the watch collecting community or the watchmaking industry. One of the fastest-growing markets, as we’ve discovered when talking to the country’s main watch retail company, is India, a country with somewhat unknown yet impressive manufacturing capacities and a collecting culture […]
Fratello
This year marks 180 years since Fears Watch Company Limited’s foundation in 1846 and a respectable 10 years since its reestablishment by Edwin Fear’s great-great-great-grandson, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. That means there’s a good reason for a celebration, and following the announcement of the Brunswick 40 “1846 Edition” in January, the British brand keeps the ball rolling […] Visit Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour “Celestial” Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...
Monochrome
The Legacy Machine collection has always been MB&F;‘s most paradoxical line. Conceived as a tribute to 19th-century watchmaking, it features some of the most theatrical three-dimensional movements in contemporary horology. The LM101, introduced in 2014, was the most restrained expression of that idea. Smaller, thinner, and mechanically simpler than its siblings, it stripped the concept […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko has one of the most expansive catalogs in the watch industry, which is key to the Japanese brand’s prowess, but its nuances can also make it quite overwhelming at times to sort through from a consumer perspective. Today, I’m going for hyperspecificity on multiple levels, not only focusing on the brand’s “Luxe” tier, but also on a specific series within that tier, and on one watch, well, specifically. As you’ve likely already noticed from this article's title, we’re gathered here today to jump into the deep end with the Presage Classics Craftsmanship Series SPB495. Though its name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, the Seiko Presage SPB495, to me, truly demonstrates the dynamic range to be found within the contemporary Seiko lineup, given that you have the patience to sort through the complexities of the brand’s collections and naming convention nuances. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Seiko’s Craftsmanship series officially made its start in 2013 as the brand celebrated its centennial anniversary. Positioned within the larger Presage collection, this initiative has been a way for the brand to further enhance the collection's foundational elements, mainly being a mechanical line, guided by and harkening to Seiko’s centuries-long history, with a focused attention to its dials. Essentially, the Craftsmanship series adds in more sophisticated, high-end elements into the mix, paying tribute to many traditional, artisanal techniques th...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking rarely stands still, but Horologer MING has made a habit of using evolution rather than repetition as its driving force. Since the brand’s founding in 2017, Ming Thein and his team have mastered light, form and restraint, while also pushing technical boundaries behind the scenes. With the recent launch of the fifth-generation design […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Long-term review of the Omega Seamaster 2541.80 quartz with 90s Bond-era charm, 300m capability, ultra-reliable accuracy, and the real-world quirks you should know.
Monochrome
Praesidus is well known for military-inspired collections, and the Jungle Field line is a modern take on the GG-W-113 US military specification introduced in 1967. The spec called for a lightweight pilot and aircrew watch at 33mm or 34mm with a matte black dial, 12/24-hour numerals and hacking seconds. The 34mm Jungle Field OG was […]
Time+Tide
In a first for the brand, Alpina has placed a solar-powered movement inside its toughest adventure-ready watch.The post Alpina harnesses the power of the Sun in the new Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Urwerk continues to iterate its most accessible model with the UR-100V “LightSpeed” Ceramic. The Lightspeed is essentially a variation of an earlier model, with ceramic composite replacing carbon composite. The ceramic composite incorporates fibreglass and carbon fibre, giving it a textured surface and greater strength. Though it’s relatively affordable compared to other Urwerk models, the UR-100V still retains the brand’s signature elements, including a wandering hours display and various astronomical-time indicators on the dial. Initial thoughts The UR-100V now exists in a multitude of variations, perhaps too many, but the Lightspeed stands out as one of the most interesting in both material and style. The ceramic composite case is appealing for both its appearance and utility – it is hard, strong, and lightweight – and is being used for the first time by Urwerk. It also doesn’t cost that much more than earlier versions of the model, making this iteration more compelling. More broadly, I would have liked Urwerk to vary the display across the UR-100V line, beyond the case material, making each iteration more distinct. As they stand, most share the same dial and indications, with only the case changing for each edition. Light and white Because the case is a ceramic composite rather than pure ceramic, it has a textured surface with a slight glossiness. These characteristics stem from the fibreglass and carbon fibre sheets within the composite, explaining the w...
Fratello
Sometimes good things happen really fast. It’s been less than two weeks since I wrote the introduction article for the new CIGA Design Time Cipher. In it, I expressed my wish to take the brand’s latest creation for a spin, and barely a week after publication, the watch landed on my desk. So for the […] Visit Hands-On With The Fun CIGA Design Time Cipher to read the full article.
Time+Tide
It was a tough spot, but after combing through photos just minutes after the stellar performance, we've got the scoop on Bad Bunny's AP.The post Bad Bunny rocks new stone dial Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch during Super Bowl LX halftime show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Nestled in the Jura Mountains, La Chaux-de-Fonds has been a cradle of Swiss watchmaking ever since its watchmaking school, the Technicum, opened in 1865. For aspiring watchmakers, the climax of their training was traditionally the creation of a montre école – or what’s known as a school watch. This is the story of Hugues Bürki, a Technicum alumnus, who built what would become a record-breaking school watch, and who would later make horological history as a movement engineer. Hugues Bürki. Image – author The Technicum The watchmaking school of La Chaux-de-Fonds was founded in 1865. In its early days, the school occupied rooms inside the modestly named ‘Technicum’, a local vocational-technical school. By 1885, the school’s own building had been inaugurated, yet the name Technicum stuck. In 1933, in the wake of the global economic crisis, the nearby watchmaking schools in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle were merged to form the Technicum Neuchâtelois. The Technicum in the 1960s. Image – author It demands attention that both divisions of the Technicum Neuchâtelois had a particularly strong focus on high-precision chronometry at the time compared to other watchmaking schools in Switzerland, which specialised in other domains, such as the construction of complications and traditional finishing techniques. In fact, some of the innovations in chronometry we associate with brands like Longines can actually trace their roots to the Technicum Neuchâtelois, including...
Time+Tide
Fears celebrates its 180th anniversary with a very special 75-piece limited edition Brunswick Jump Hour, replicating the skies above.The post Fears begins its 180th anniversary celebrations with stone-dialled Celestial Jump Hour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
In a sea of black-dialed divers, a white dial stands out as a considered choice. And one of the most well-executed has to be the frostiest variant of the collector-favorite 39mm Longines Legend Diver. Longines is a Swiss heritage brand that tends to fly under the radar, most likely due to its massive catalog, but withi
Fratello
If you’ve listened to Balazs and me on Fratello On Air, you’ll know that I have a huge crush on Parmigiani Fleurier. Specifically, the Tonda PF 36mm is on my radar, but if my wrist were larger, today’s watch would be a likely candidate. Specifically, the brand has introduced the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue, […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Andrew O'Connor makes the case for rubber's supremacy over other watch strap materials.The post Is rubber becoming the superior strap choice? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Good morning, Fratelli, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Today will be a fully digital installment. When Seiko introduced the “Rotocall” re-editions, many enthusiasts got excited. The original ’80s watch, also known as the “Astronaut,” was used on many space missions, and its practical, uniquely designed bezel is a standout feature. We already put […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Rotocall Re-Editions Vs. Casio G-Shock Square In Steel to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Spoiler alert! Rashawn's Rolex basically saved his marriage...The post The Wrist Check Pod guys join us for a 3-WATCH THROW DOWN appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We reviewed the Omega Speedmaster 3861 and Bulova Lunar Pilot side by side. See which moon watch makes more sense once price, wear, and design are factored in.
WatchAdvice
Though the aftershocks of news surrounding Baume & Mercier is still being felt, does their new Clifton keep the ball rolling? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, slim case silhouette One of the comfiest bracelets I’ve ever worn Baumatic = Best value? What We Don’t: Fairly ordinary appearance, not for those wanting dramatic flair Bracelet finishing invites scratches and smudges Crown operation feels off Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Is the dress watch dead? Both Matt and I have attempted to answer this question on separate occasions. Matt argued that, in the contemporary space, the dress watch has fallen out of favour. I, on the other hand, believe dress watches remain prevalent and are thriving within the accessible segment of quartz timepieces. However, there are still a handful of brands that have committed themselves to collections defined by elegant aesthetics and attainable price points. One of these brands, Raymond Weil, is one we’ve discussed extensively, but they are far from the only player in this market. WATCH EDUCATION: An Introduction Into Baume & Mercier Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier has maintained a notable presence within this relatively accessible tier of luxury watchmaking. A long-time subsidiary of the Richemont Group since 1988, the brand has used this period to develop watches that are balanced yet distinctive, both in design and mechanics. While the Riviera collection...
Monochrome
Perpetual calendars are, without a doubt, an integral part of Audemars Piguet’s history, and the Royal Oak has carried its strand very convincingly since 1984. With the introduction of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked powered by the new Calibre 7139, AP signals a clear generational shift. Released alongside a Code 11.59 counterpart, which […]
Monochrome
Today, we’re launching a new service to enable you to find answers to your (horological) questions faster and more easily. The new MONOCHROME AI chat will answer your questions, similar to ChatGPT, however, based entirely on all MONOCHROME content of the past 20 years. Since we’ve seen the rise of ChatGPT, Gemini and the likes, […]
Time+Tide
Following two years of development, American brand Arion finally makes its debut, revealing its inaugural model, a titanium dress watch.The post Arion enlists the help from some of the best in the business for its debut release, the Delphinus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Breitling marks its entry into Formula 1 with a limited edition titanium Navitimer with Aston Martin accents and details.
Fratello
Whenever we’re in Geneva, it’s fun to stop by ArtyA. On any given day, the boutique could see a visit from a music star. Or, at one point, a custom motorcycle took center stage. Late last year, though, it was just us from Fratello who took up residence for an hour to see the brand’s […] Visit Hands-On With The ArtyA Luminity Wavy AMR-01 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Urwerk UR-100 has become one of my favorite designs in high end independent watchmaking. Whenever I encounter one (a rare event given the brand’s annual production of just around 200 watches total) I’m blown away by the way it distills the essence of the brand into a completely wearable, compact, package. I’ve always been a fan of the Urwerk philosophy, but until I tried on a UR-100 I always felt the watches themselves might be too ungainly or oddly shaped for me personally. There’s something about this case though, mostly its impressive thinness, that makes it feel like a “normal” watch on the wrist but still something otherworldly when you look down to check the time. That, to me, feels like a sweet spot. The latest from Urwerk brings a new watch into the UR-100 lineage with the UR-100V LS Ceramic. This is effectively a new variant of the original UR-100V LS (short for “light speed,” which we’ll get to momentarily) that appeared in 2024. The new watch features a white ceramic case, a first for the brand and more complex than it first appears, and the same whimsical ideology of its predecessor, and many other Urwerk watches, which are all in one way or another a commentary on timekeeping itself. All Urwerks (well, almost all) share a common wandering hour satellite time telling mechanism that has become their calling card. It’s actually a rather mechanically elegant way to tell the time, basically with a wandering hour “pointer” to a fixed ...
Monochrome
We’ve all had the experience of putting down our watch a little too carelessly, and accidentally scratching it on something sharp, or even worse, knocking it off and seeing it fly across the room in Hollywood-esque slow-motion while screaming “NOOOOooooo!!!” at the top of your lungs. It’s happened to me, and I know it has […]
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